How to remove tree suckers

How to Remove Suckers from Trees (and Why They are There in the First Place)

If your tree is slowly turning into a shrub by sending up tree suckers—a host of thin, upright branches from the base of the trunk or soil near the base of the tree—then here are some tips on why it might be happening and how to remove suckers from trees.

What Are Tree Suckers?

Trees are very good at what they do. Growing, that is. You often see suckers at the base of trees, tiny shoots that look like mini trees emerging. When overgrown, they create a shrub-like appearance. You may also see them emerge from a stump of a tree that has been cut down and continues to live.

Trees send up suckers as a reaction to stress. Your smart tree is putting up an effort to survive in a less-than-perfect environment. Those suckers are a way of multiplying, ensuring the lineage of the tree lives on. If the tree can’t survive, the suckers will grow in its place.

Why Do Tree Suckers Grow?

Suckers are often seen on urban trees that are planted in the “hell strip,” the strip of grass or garden between the street and the sidewalk. This strip is often a very stressful place for a tree to grow, with poor soil that is flanked by concrete. The soil gets compacted from the pressure on the paved surfaces, and the concrete generates a lot of additional heat.

Trees that have been growing in the hell strip will not thrive and produce as well as their counterparts in healthy soil with ample room for roots. These trees will often have more diseases and pests, and they send up suckers as a response to the stress they are under.

Drought is another reason why a tree might send up suckers. Upright branches from the base or upper branches as a result of drought conditions are called water sprouts. Water sprouts are the tree’s reaction to being thirsty.

A tree can also send up water sprouts and suckers as a result of improper pruning. A description of this is covered in this article on pruning.

How to Stop Tree Suckers

As much of a nuisance as they are, the issue is primarily aesthetic. The tree is calling out for help, and if you listen perhaps you can help by improving conditions for the tree. Test your soil to find any glaring issues in it that could be causing distress.

Most trees don’t need to be watered, but you may want to consider soaking your trees if they are young or your area is experiencing excessive heat. Poor pruning or a lack of pruning maybe your other option for preventing more tree suckers from occurring.

If you can’t find a solution,  you can simply choose to remove the suckers and keep up on the job as they appear. In some cases, like with older trees, this is not a bad solution.

You could provide more water, better soil, and prune more carefully, but as the tree ages it will be more prone to suckers and this may just be how you have to manage it for the foreseeable future.

Young trees, however, need more attention to the cause, as they shouldn’t be so stressed out at such a young age.

How to Remove Suckers From Trees

I have a couple of trees that I regularly will need to remove suckers from. My Corkscrew Hazel, Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’, has gorgeous contorted and twisted branches that look best when the leaves have fallen. It’s prone to suckers that hide the true beauty of the trunk of the tree so they get chopped off regularly.

And a thank you to Fiskars for providing me with a hatchet and billhook saw to help me remove the tree suckers!

I like to use a hatchet or billhook saw to remove the suckers at the base.

Ideally, you want to get as close to the base as possible without cutting into the trunk. The nodes that send up more growth are located near where the suckers originate, so you need to remove those nodes in order to prevent regrowth. Otherwise, you will find yourself chopping down the same suckers over and over again.

Remove Suckers at the Base of a Trunk

To remove suckers at the base of a trunk, use a hatchet to hook around the suckers and pull them off. The blade will prune those that do not pull off more easily. Use pruners or the saw of the billhook saw to clean up any stubs that are leftover.

Remove Suckers Under Soil

To remove suckers under the soil, first try to pull them up. If they can easily be pulled off the roots then you are likely to get the growth nodes as well. If not, use the tip of the hatchet to loosen the soil around the suckers. Then, use the hook under the soil to cut the stem.

The hatchet can also be used to quickly remove watersprouts that grow in the spring and summer. Use the hook blade to swiftly remove the watersprouts at the branch. Then use the hatchet to quickly chop the pieces for the compost or yard waste bin.

I prune my espalier apple tree in the fall each year after letting it grow quite steadily throughout the summer. I use bypass pruners to remove the thinner branches, the billhook saw for the larger branches, and then quickly chop them up to fit in the green waste bin using the hatchet.

Here is my espalier apple before:

You can see it’s such a beauty once it’s all cleaned up and tidy for the fall. Here is the after:

These tools can also be used for cutting back unruly and overgrown brush, removing tree roots from the soil, and dividing perennials.

• Learn How to Prune Like a Pro! Pruning 101
• Want to Know When to Prune? This Will Answer All of Your Questions!
• Your Guide to Pruning Hedges
• The Best Garden Greenery for Holiday Decorating (and Which Ones to Avoid)
• Care and Pruning for Decorative Topiaries
• The Art of Espalier: Growing Fruit Trees in Small Spaces
• The Essential Guide to Growing Lavender

Kickstart

your garden!

This FREE 5-day mini course will help you set up a thriving garden for wellness and joy quickly and easily.

I want the free course!

How to Kill Tree Suckers | Home Guides

By SF Gate Contributor Updated November 30, 2020

Tree suckers take nutrients and moisture away from the tree that supports them. These shoots grow around the base of a tree, or from shallow roots where growth nodes -- the joints between annual growth -- pass near enough the surface to receive enough light to sprout. Often, tree suckers sprout even after a tree has been cut down because they're sprouting from still-living roots. For trees that are still standing, suckers can ruin a tree's crown or turn a young tree into a multi-stemmed shrub.

Purdue University describes another type of tree growth that resembles suckers, but these shoots sprout from tree branches and grow upward, often following stressful events, instead of sprouting at ground level as suckers do. Called tree water sprouts, these shoots may be a result of improper pruning techniques such as “topping,” also known as pollarding, or as a consequence of drought.

Killing tree suckers by using chemicals, such as triclopyr, glyphosate or a sprout inhibitor for trees, is only advised when you want to kill suckers around a tree that's been cut down and you don't want it to re-grow. But if you use these chemicals on suckers that sprout around one of your living landscape trees, the chemicals may also damage the tree’s roots and the branches fed by those roots. Use herbicides only as a last resort and according to all label recommendations. Mechanical removal is the safer option.

1. 1. Cut Tree Suckers

   Cut suckers at the base of trees, including fruit trees as well as ornamental trees, as soon as they sprout by using hand shears, lopping pruners or a sharp knife. Cut as far below the surface as possible (without damaging the root system) to deny the sucker the light it needs to re-sprout. Harvest base suckers in early summer -- after they have stopped sprouting and are putting their energy into growing.

2. 2. Mow Tree Suckers

   Mow suckers that grow along shallow roots of trees, being careful not to nick the tree trunk or damage any surface roots. Open wounds on the roots may allow pathogens to enter the tree, which makes it susceptible to disease. Repeated mowing may eventually stop sucker growth. Dig stubborn “colonist” suckers with a sharp spade if they continue to grow.

3. 3. Kill Suckers With Chemicals

   If the suckers are growing around a tree that's in your lawn, be sure to use an herbicide with chemicals that selectively only kill the tree shoots without killing the grass in your yard. If, however, the tree is growing in an area other than your lawn or a flower bed where you don't have to be careful about killing other plants, you can use a non-selective herbicide to kill the tree suckers. Call your county cooperative service to recommend the right kind of product that you need.

4. 4. Disinfect Pruning Tools

   The University of Florida IFAS Extension notes the importance of disinfecting all pruning tools with a solution of 70 percent isopropyl alcohol or ethanol. Wipe all blades with this solution before starting to prune, after pruning each sucker, and when you're finished. Although suckers are typically healthy, the tree itself may harbor pathogens.

   Things You Will Need

References

• Purdue University: So Long Suckers!
• University of Florida IFAS Extension: Disinfecting Your Garden Tools

Tips

• Watersprouts form during drought. Better watering and improved cultural practices might keep suckers from re-sprouting.
• Pollarding, or tree-topping, is an ill-advised pruning technique used to fit a large tree into a small space or reclaim a badly damaged or neglected tree. The suckers that rise from pollarded branches must be removed to allow the branch a chance to start branches from the growth nodes along the surviving branch.

Warnings

• Some growers use triclopyr, glyphosate or growth retardant sprays to kill suckers, but they may also damage the tree’s roots and the branches fed by those roots. Use herbicides only as a last resort -- mechanical removal is safe and successful.

How to get rid of overgrown plums, cherries, aspens, sea buckthorn, trees and shrubs on the site

It is hard to imagine a personal plot or cottage without fruit trees and shrubs decorating the garden. But along with the obvious benefits, such planting of cultivated plants adds to the hassle. Often, summer residents and homeowners ask themselves, how to get rid of growth on site , which not only spoils the appearance, but also weakens the main plant. This leads to a decrease in productivity, decorativeness of flowering shrubs.

Content of the article:

• The main methods of combating an overgrown
• Removal of plums
• Removal of cherry and acacia shoots
• Removal of willow and aspen
• Removal of sea buckthorn
• Removal of lilac and Irgi

• Overgrowth can lead to the death of the mother tree. Sometimes summer residents acquire old neglected areas where aggressive offspring fill a vast territory. Fruit trees, such as apple or pear trees, produce shoots mainly after the death of the mother plant. During life, abundant distillates give raspberries, cherries, plums, irga and sea buckthorn.

  Basic methods of undergrowth control

  It is up to you to decide how to get rid of overgrowth of trees on the site: mechanically or chemically, because each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. The chemical method is less labor intensive, however, it cannot always be used. Contact herbicides, saltpeter and even salt are used for destruction. After the destruction of the plant, such substances enter the soil and decompose into separate non-toxic elements that do not harm the soil.

  In most cases, this problem affects fruit trees - cherries and plums. Also, the appearance of root offspring is often observed in lilac, poplar, birch bushes. Why does appear The problem is caused by the following factors: Wrong landing technique. Overgrowth can appear when the tree is placed high or as a result of watering with a jet of water. Non-compliance with the technique of grafting a varietal branch to a rootstock. Incompatibility with the scion provokes a violation of metabolic processes. This causes root depletion. The plant can form shoots to compensate for insufficient nutrition. Violation of the rules of care after planting or vaccination. The provoking factor is the incorrect tying of the grafted plant fragment. If placed too tight, the tape may cut into the tree. As a result, nutrients move from the leaves to the roots. The appearance of offspring is considered a protective reaction of the culture, since it provides nutrition to the root system. Damage to roots. The provoking factors for the appearance of such problems include a high landing, close proximity to the surface, constant injury. In the area of ​​damage, root shoots often form from adnexal buds. Violation of crown formation. Heavy pruning reduces the supply of nutrients to the root system. As a result, there is a risk of greenery appearing in the root area. Adverse weather conditions. These include drought and frostbite. When sprouts appear on their own root crop, they can be used for propagation. However, wild growth grows on a grafted game, which must be removed immediately. Reasons for removing undergrowth Most often, weeds need to be removed. The offspring are connected to the root system of the main tree and share nutrients with it. As a result, the development of the main culture is slowed down. In such a tree, the process of flowering and fruiting slows down. At the same time, flowers and berries become smaller, and their taste also changes. In addition, the growth takes up a lot of space on the site. Instructions for the destruction of shoots To get rid of root offspring, it is permissible to use different methods - mechanical, chemical, folk. Chemicals Chemical destruction of the growth is considered the most reliable method, but it comes with certain risks. To obtain the desired effect, apply solid or general herbicides. They lead to the death of all plants, therefore, with shoots, the main tree can also be destroyed. The root shoot absorbs the same juices as the parent crop. Therefore, the ingress of the herbicide into the structure of the shoots will lead to the defeat of the main trunk. At the same time, compliance with the dosage helps to avoid negative consequences. The most effective substances that gardeners often use include: Tornado; "Glyphos"; "Roundup". "Roundup" can only be used to destroy young shoots that have not had time to stiffen. Its action is mainly aimed at the elimination of grassy vegetation. "Glyphos" perfectly penetrates the structure of the plant. Due to this, he successfully copes with ground and underground fragments of shoots. As part of "Tornado" there is an increased dosage of the active substance. Therefore, the drug helps to cope with the formed shoots. Powerful herbicides suitable for the complete elimination of plants. They should be used to clear the site for planting other crops. Mechanical methods Most gardeners use mechanical methods to remove undergrowth. Root shoots can be cut down. Cutting them with a pruner is not recommended, as this leads to the opposite results. In place of the cut shoot, as a rule, 2-3 new offspring appear. We understand the methods of removing the overgrowth of trees in the summer cottage Reasons for the formation of young shoots Young "shoots" often form next to fruit crops that have suffered from various factors. This can happen due to temperature changes, old age, or a lack of trace elements. However, the growth around the tree is also formed for other reasons: open root collar; cortical injury; many branches removed when pruning; mechanical wounds. In addition, there are cases when there is an incompatibility between the rootstock and the scion. As a result, metabolic processes inside the plant are disturbed. Over time, the fruit culture loses vitality, so it lets young shoots. As you can see, the cause of the problem is hidden in the violation of the rules of care. If the shoot is to be used for propagation, it is left at a distance of 2-4 m from the mother crop. Chemical removal of tree growth on the site To solve the problem, gardeners use 2 main methods: with the help of chemicals and the destruction of "shoots" mechanically. The first option is resorted to if the garden has turned into a dense and impenetrable "jungle". But only as a last resort, so as not to harm other plants. Preparations suitable for the procedure : Roundal; Glukor; Tornado; Agrokiller. However, before applying chemicals, you need to figure out how to destroy the growth on the site in the most gentle way. For example, if an old tree sprouts relentlessly, it is first cut down at ground level. Then, using a conventional drill, 5-7 holes with a diameter of 2 cm are made in the stump. They are placed away from the center of the cut so that the chemical enters the root system. The procedure is repeated 2 more times, for 14 days. To remove undergrowth, trees are injected with special syringes. The chemical is injected directly into the wood of the young sprout. Gardeners often simplify the procedure. They make deep notches on the trunk and branches. And then, abundantly irrigate the plant with the drug. Spraying the leaf plates of the tree with pesticides, amine salt 2,4-D, crotilin or butyl ether helps to get rid of unwanted "greens". It is advisable to cover the holes with plastic or polyethylene. Thanks to this, the substance will fulfill its important mission. Mechanical way to deal with undergrowth The easiest way to get rid of undergrowth of trees is skillful hands, an ax, a shovel, a saw and a delimber. Usually the procedure is carried out in early spring according to the following scheme : first determine the place where they are connected to the mother tree; the young sprout is carefully removed along with the root system; carefully clean the site. In addition, fallen fruits are carefully collected after harvest. Otherwise, the seeds or pits may eventually turn into young trees. Next, we will learn how to deal with the shoots of plums and cherries throughout the season. When removing young sprouts, it is advisable not to damage the roots of the parent fruit crop. Plum sprouts Plums are known to grow thick sprouts regardless of their age. It appears in both young and old trees. In addition, almost all varieties of plums form young shoots. The main cause of the problem is the deep loosening of the near-trunk area of ​​the tree. It turns out that the plum root system is very sensitive to such a procedure. It is worth touching it once with a shovel, and it immediately gives new shoots. Over time, they take root and turn the garden into dense, chaotic thickets. Another cause of undergrowth is a serious disease of the fruit crop that slowly kills it. Usually, the violent appearance of processes indicates precisely this problem. In any case, the growth is removed very carefully. At the same time, they try to capture the entire formed root system, at a very close distance from the maternal root. The sprouts are cut with a pruner, after which they are covered with clay or garden pitch. Cherry and its shoots Gardeners have noticed that the grafted crops of the Shubinka and Vladimirskaya varieties usually do not allow many young shoots. However, in others, they grow rapidly, taking up space in the garden. Most often it concerns such varieties : Malinovka; Youth; Rastorguevskaya; Memory of Enikeev. As a rule, shoots of grafted crops usually grow into wildlings, the fruits of which are of little value. Therefore, inexperienced summer residents should know how to permanently get rid of cherry shoots in the garden. There are several traditional methods. Young shoots are often removed with a pruner or an axe. However, the procedure is done strictly according to the rules and very carefully : begin to cut the undergrowth at the first appearance; root cuttings are cut down in early spring or late autumn, removing a layer of soil; the remaining sections on the mother tree are plentifully treated with garden pitch; fall asleep the place of removal of the young shoot. Adhering to the recommendations of experts, you can permanently free the garden from uninvited "settlers". If the shoots are simply cut down, in a year at least 3 shoots will appear in the same place. Dense growths are removed with herbicides : Zero; Glisol; Alaz; Roundal. Preparations are diluted strictly according to the instructions specified by the manufacturer. Sometimes a year later, the procedure is repeated if a relapse occurs. After removing the shoots, slate sheets are dug into the root area, at a distance of 1. 5 m. They deepen it by 1 m. If the sprouts appear again, they are immediately cut off with secateurs so that they do not have time to take root. Bird cherry shoots in the garden In the last century, summer residents planted many ornamental shrubs on their plots. Cherry was especially popular. Unfortunately, the neglected plants have formed dense thickets. Therefore, the question arises before the new owners of how to get rid of the bird cherry overgrowth in a short time, and give the site a decent look. Experts offer several cardinal methods. First, find the mother tree and cut it down at a height of 100-150 cm. The next year, the stump will sprout young shoots, which are immediately pruned. Over time, the process will stop and the culture will dry out. In about 2 years, there will be nothing left of her. Even faster growth is removed chemically. As a rule, a concentrated solution of substances such as "Hurricane" or "Tornado" is used. After abundant irrigation, young bird cherry trees gradually dry out. The poison penetrates the root system through the foliage and trunk. Dead plants are carefully removed from the site. How to get rid of maple growth on the plot Ornamental trees provide reliable protection from dusty roads and gusty winds. Their voluminous crowns create a refreshing shade around the house. Maples are especially popular. Many lionfish grow on them every year. They scatter in different directions and often fall into vegetable gardens or front gardens. In the same year, lionfish can take root, which is a problem for summer residents. To solve it, it is important to know how to get rid of maple growth on the site without harming other plants. One usually starts by looking for a tree that produces hundreds of these "intruders". If it grows in neutral territory, it can be removed in the classic way. Work is carried out independently or hire specialists. In order not to uproot the tree, use mineral fertilizers or coarse salt. A funnel 12 cm deep is drilled into the stump, where salt is poured. The hole is closed with a wooden plug. It is made from any branch. Similarly, a tree is destroyed with sodium or ammonium nitrate. Minerals burn wood, and then get into the root system. A year later, the maple dies, which means that there will be no “unexpected guests” in the garden or flower bed. Having considered the advice of experts on how to remove the overgrowth of trees in a summer cottage, we can safely get to work. For the case, you will need a simple set of tools or chemicals. The main thing is to act according to generally accepted rules. And then the gardens will bear fruit abundantly and rejoice our hearts. How to get rid of undergrowth on the plot It is hard to imagine a personal plot or cottage without fruit trees and shrubs decorating the garden. But along with the obvious benefits, such planting of cultivated plants adds to the hassle. Often, summer residents and homeowners wonder, how to get rid of undergrowth on site , which not only spoils the appearance, but also weakens the main plant. This leads to a decrease in productivity, decorativeness of flowering shrubs. Overgrowth can lead to the death of the mother tree. Sometimes summer residents acquire old neglected areas where aggressive offspring fill a vast territory. Fruit trees, such as apple or pear trees, produce shoots mainly after the death of the mother plant. During life, abundant distillates give raspberries, cherries, plums, irga and sea buckthorn. Basic methods of undergrowth control It is up to you to decide how to get rid of overgrowth of trees on the site: mechanically or chemically, because each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. The chemical method is less labor intensive, however, it cannot always be used. Contact herbicides, saltpeter and even salt are used for destruction. After the destruction of the plant, such substances enter the soil and decompose into separate non-toxic elements that do not harm the soil. Now developed a whole group of pesticides - arboricides, designed to destroy unwanted trees and shrubs. To combat distillation, the pesticide is applied to the root circle or the plant is treated outside. They are resorted to in cases where it is necessary to destroy not only the shoots, but also old trees or shrubs. A strong pesticide is able to penetrate the bark into the wood and destroy the tree weed. Several application methods are used: Irrigation of bare tissues. With this method, notches are made on the tree, exposing the wood, and the trunk is irrigated. Injection of herbicides into wood with special injectors or syringes with thick needles. Cutting down a tree and treating the stump with arboricide. Spraying the leaves with pesticides. For plants with broad leaves, use 2,4-D amine salt or crotilin. The growth of trees and shrubs is sensitive to the emulsifiable butyl ether 2,4-D. With mechanical control , the offspring are cut with a pruner or a sharp knife along with root shoots. This should be done as carefully and carefully as possible so as not to damage the main roots and not provoke the growth of new offspring. Removing plum overgrowth Let us dwell separately on the problem of how to get rid of plum overgrowth on the site, because not only young, but also old plantings give dense vegetation. It should be noted that almost all varieties of plums form unwanted shoots. Therefore, you should not look for new varieties devoid of this property. How are plums different from other crops? Plum offspring does not appear on it by itself. Usually its growth provokes the digging of near-stem circles. The earth around the plum can not be dug up! It is worth cutting off the root with a shovel, it will give many new shoots. The second reason for lush vegetation can be the disease and death of the mother plant. If you notice that the plum suddenly began to give abundant plum shoots, see if everything is in order with the main tree. Neither mowing nor cutting will work. After such manipulations, dormant buds on root shoots wake up and give new shoots. Offspring should be removed together with the underground root shoot, as close as possible to the mother root. Separate the sprouts with secateurs and cover with garden pitch or clay. Cherry shoot removal The situation is different for cherries. If a tree is grafted onto the rootstock of the Vladimir cherry or Shubinka, then it does not sprout, the other varieties grow profusely and the question of how to get rid of cherry overgrowth on the site worries many summer residents and owners of estates. Propagation of cherries by root shoots does not make sense, because most varieties are root-grafted. Digging as a way to remove cherry shoots does not work, and just like plum, it only stimulates the growth of new shoots. You can remove the offspring by cutting shoots. Cutting is carried out at a height of 20-30 cm from the ground. After a few years, the tree will stop producing unwanted growth. The second way to get rid of sprouts is to limit the growth of root shoots in width. To do this, the root circle is dug in and moisture-resistant material is laid: plastic or slate. Shoots cannot grow through the screen, the roots will go deep. Then the ground under the crown of the tree should be mulched. The mulch layer should be at least 10 cm. Chopped straw, hay, tree bark, leaves, healthy tops of garden crops are used as a mulch cover. Such a cover will help keep the moisture in the tree and act as an additional fertilizer. The same methods can be used when you are tormented by the question of how to get rid of acacia shoots on the site, because this beautiful tree is prone to the formation of root offspring. IMPORTANT! Often summer residents make the mistake of trying to remove the growth with herbicides. As a result, the mother tree also dies, because it is connected with the shoots by a single root system through which the pesticide circulates. If you want to sprout on a stump, a herbicide will help get rid of the sprouts. Steady results are given by the preparations of the new generation Tornado and Hurricane. Three parts of water are taken for one part of the chemical and poured into the holes made in the stump and covered with polyethylene on top. After re-treatment in a couple of weeks, the stump and roots will begin to decompose. Willow and Aspen Growth Removal When root cuttings thrive and the question arises of how to get rid of willow growth in the area, prepare for a long struggle. Sometimes you have to fight throughout the season. If cuttings come from the main tree, herbicides should not be applied. Mechanical method suitable. You should carefully rake the earth from the roots with a hoe or chopper and cut off the offspring at the root along with the root shavings. Cover the cut with garden pitch. If the tree is cut down, then herbicides from the group of glycophosphates will help to remove the sprouts: Roundup, and Tornado. It is necessary to carry out processing with the beginning of the growing season, when the leaves on the shoots fully open. You cannot get rid of unwanted growth once, at least 2-3 treatments are needed with an interval of three weeks. You can pour pesticides into holes drilled in the stump. Salt sprinkled on the surface of the stump and covered with polyethylene will also help. Periodically, sodium chloride must be poured. The same methods will come in handy if you are thinking about how to get rid of aspen shoots on the site, because they have a similar mechanism for the formation of offspring. Removal of sea buckthorn shoots Sea buckthorn is one of those crops whose varieties produce a different number of root suckers. Generously "share" the growth of the Wizard, Goose-Crystal, Generous. Altai varieties are not prone to the formation of offspring. One of the features of the culture can be attributed to a significant spread of shoots, much greater than the size of the crown. The offspring can "run away" from the mother bush at a distance of up to 7 m. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of how to get rid of sea buckthorn growth on the site during its planting. In this case, slate or galvanized iron should be prudently dug in along the radius to a depth of half a meter in order to prevent the growth of shoots throughout the garden. If you want to get rid of the bush completely, you can resort to herbicides. A few simple tips will help increase the effectiveness of the poison: treat in calm, clear weather; make an emulsion - mix with a few drops of vegetable oil; use pesticides at temperatures not higher than 25°C and not lower than 12°C; observe the dosage indicated in the instructions; make a solution in a non-metallic container, since the reaction of metal with chemicals reduces the effectiveness of the latter. In old orchards, when the area is covered with shoots, the shoots are removed along with the root shoots. To do this, the earth is raked from the roots and cut with a knife as close as possible to the main roots. Removal of lilac and shadberry growth Lilac is an ornamental and unpretentious shrub, but it can also cause a lot of trouble for the owners. So that in two or three years the question does not arise of how to get rid of the lilac overgrowth on the site, before planting, a cylindrical screen made of slate, galvanized plates or plastic to a depth of half a meter is installed along the perimeter of the dug hole. The diameter of the screen depends on the size of the plant variety. 80 cm is enough for short bushes, for tall bushes the diameter must be increased. If the bush is already growing in a permanent place, such a screen can be installed by digging a trench around the circumference. So that the shoots around the lilac do not take away the nutrients of the mother plant, cover the near-stem circle with hay or straw mulch. In old, neglected areas, arboricides will help get rid of lilac thickets. The same methods are also suitable for those who are thinking about how to get rid of the irgi overgrowth on the site, and strive to limit the growth of shrub offspring as much as possible. To summarize When treating trees and shrubs with herbicides, do not forget that you have poison in your hands. Therefore, it is necessary to take all precautionary measures: protect the respiratory organs and open areas of the body. If you don't know how to get rid of the weeds on your property, or many years of struggle turned out to be fruitless, trust the experts who have knowledge of each crop, have accumulated practical experience in weed control and guarantee the result. What is root growth and whether it is necessary to get rid of it Adding an article to a new collection Young root growth of cherries, plums, pears or raspberries causes a lot of trouble for gardeners. How to get rid of overgrowth on the site, we will tell in our material. In order to remove the growth once and for all, you need to understand the reasons for its appearance. Otherwise, your garden may turn into a place of constant struggle, taking all your free time and energy. Reasons for the emergence of root shoots Soviet children, as a rule, were familiar with the story of L.N. Tolstoy "How Trees Walk" and therefore they understood that the root growth does not appear from scratch. There must be reasons for this, and, as a rule, negative ones. Reason 1 . Improper tree planting Everything here is like Tolstoy's. If a tree grows in the shade of another plant, experiencing a lack of light and nutrients, then with the help of root shoots located at a distance (sometimes up to 15 m) from the main trunk, it will try to find a new life. What to do? Establishing a garden is a responsible business. And here you can not focus solely on your own taste preferences. Nursery staff are always ready to share information about the approximate growth of a particular adult plant, how many meters its root system will spread. All this will help you not to make a mistake with the landing site and avoid chaos in the garden. In order for trees to develop properly, they must be fed with organic and mineral fertilizers. In order for everyone to have enough light, plants can be planted in steps: undersized - to the south, and tall - to the north. You can also arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. If you read this material too late and have already made all conceivable and unthinkable mistakes when laying a garden, and the root growth is your mute reproach, there are two ways out: thin out the branches of neighboring trees or decide which of the green pets on your site is more needed . Cause 2. Incorrect watering of plants Not enough watering is a classic mistake of a novice gardener. In this case, water does not reach the root system of the plant, but simply evaporates from the soil surface. But if the tree does not have enough moisture, it may well begin to form roots near the surface of the earth, and after them young shoots. What to do? It is necessary to observe the watering norms, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the topography of the site. As a rule, seedlings of fruit trees require 30-50 liters of water. Plants that have reached 7-12 years old are already 120-150 liters. Do not forget that young suction roots are usually located along the perimeter of the crown, and not near the trunk, as some people think. Cause 3: Exposed plant roots Wrong planting depth is also a fairly common mistake. If you do not deepen the roots and they are exposed, this, in turn, will provoke the formation of overgrowth. What to do? Just cover the roots near the trunk with earth, and if this is the only reason for the growth, then the young shoots will no longer bother you. Cause 4: Excessive pruning of trees Incorrect pruning is probably one of the most common causes of undergrowth. There must be a balance in everything, including maintaining the proportions between the size of the root system and the crown. If you pruned a tree too much, it will regenerate green mass by growing it in all available ways. What to do? Read our previous publications carefully and the next time you pick up a bow saw or pruner, don't get carried away. Cause 5. Mechanical damage and diseases of trees - all these problems can be caused by physical impact, adverse natural factors or diseases. But, unfortunately, not all of them can be seen right away (sometimes the bark begins to peel off only a couple of years after hard frosts that have damaged the plant). However, it is important to remember that the appearance of root shoots in the vast majority of cases signals that the tree is uncomfortable. What to do? Carefully inspect the tree. The discovered wounds must be covered with garden pitch. And if there are signs of any disease, it would be useful to use fungicides. Today, there are many systemic drugs that are quickly absorbed by plants and suppress pathogens of various diseases. At the same time, the effectiveness of many fungicides does not depend on weather conditions. And you can choose what is more convenient for you - spraying or applying the drug to the soil. Cause 6. Incorrect grafting of trees The problem arises due to the incompatibility of the rootstock and scion, due to which the metabolism is disturbed. Usually, with the growth of the tree, the mistake made becomes easier to notice by a sharp change in the thickness of the trunk at the grafting site. At the same time, the winter hardiness of the plant worsens, the tree develops slowly, but sometimes it bears fruit earlier than is typical for this variety. Incompatibility of this kind can often be observed in the plots of amateur gardeners who graft a pear on an apple or rowan tree. What to do? Unfortunately, these kinds of errors often lead to the death of the plant. But if you want to keep the variety, you should take care of this in advance by preparing cuttings and trying not to make the same mistake when you plant them. If you do not yet have a suitable rootstock, and you see that a rare plant with juicy fragrant fruits is dying, you can try to save it using a bridge graft. However, it does not guarantee a complete restoration of sap flow. How to deal with root growth Root control is a necessity, not a whim. After all, young shoots take away nutrients from plants, make your garden untidy, and also attract pests such as aphids. In addition, sometimes basal shoots are woven into the crown, begin to bear fruit and surprise the gardener with small fruits with low taste. There are two ways to control root growth: mechanical removal or the use of herbicides. Pruning, felling and digging up root shoots Unfortunately, getting rid of the root shoots in this way is unlikely to succeed forever. It will be necessary to control its growth annually. Simply cutting off the young shoots protruding from the ground can only make things worse, as there are usually dormant buds below the soil level, which will cause the shoots to bush. Therefore, pruning is not a panacea. It is best to dig up the undergrowth. To do this, lower the shovel into the soil and remove the shoot along with the root. In some cases, you have to use a hatchet. The wound resulting from such manipulations must be treated with a garden pitch to avoid infection. How to remove root growth with herbicides This method cannot be used if you plan to keep the mother tree. As a rule, herbicides are used if the growth gives an old stump, which is difficult to uproot due to a powerful root system. With a small amount of overgrowth, gardeners simply spray young shoots with preparations in dry, calm weather (Fighter, Lapis lazuli, Excellent worker, etc. are suitable for this purpose). But if the shoots do not give up, then you can try a more aggressive way. Several vertical holes are drilled in the stump of the mother tree, into which herbicides are poured. To exclude the evaporation of preparations and their washing out under the influence of atmospheric precipitation, the cut can be covered with a film. Be sure to wear goggles, a respirator, and gloves when working with herbicides, and follow safety guidelines. Root control It is not uncommon for gardeners to use dug up basal shoots to start a new garden. Although propagation of plants by root shoots can be quite successful, if you do not live in the country permanently, it is recommended to grow a rootstock from a stone. Experienced gardeners note that if a plant was grown from a root shoot, it, in turn, is often prone to the formation of root shoots. Some, tired of fighting the undergrowth that clogs the garden, but not wanting to part with the tree, dig sheets of slate or metal into the ground a meter from the root system. However, this method of prevention cannot be called very effective, because, firstly, the root growth will still be formed next to the plant, and secondly, such underground fences, decomposing, can change the composition of the soil. Therefore, if a tree gives a lot of shoots, and you do not have enough time and energy to regularly fight new shoots, it is easier to part with the plant. Root growth can be not only a source of trouble, but also a good planting material for those who live in a private house and have the opportunity to regularly care for the garden. Give the young shoots a year to root, then dig, transplant to a new location and graft a cutting of any variety you like (for example, by budding). How to get rid of undergrowth Before you start planting young trees and shrubs on an overgrown (abandoned) site, you must definitely get rid of old undergrowth. Trees should be removed so that in the future the growth does not appear on the site again. It is always difficult to deal with the shoots of plum, cherry, sea buckthorn, shadberry, chokeberry, bird cherry, American maple. Wild (and the American maple is constantly, it is generally some kind of alien), they give an abundance of root shoots. It is extremely difficult to destroy it by simple physical removal by cutting to a stump with a pruner or a saw. The shoots will reappear on the site from year to year, striving to grow where you don’t expect it at all. Rooting plants are always problematic. They should not be planted next to crops suffering from root damage (apple, plum, honeysuckle). Usually, such crops are isolated during planting by digging deep into the soil (at least 60–70 cm) obstacles made of slate and other durable materials. The most aggressive are bush and hybrid cherries (especially poor-bearing varieties and forms), some old raspberry varieties. Common cherries (European varieties) and own-rooted plums produce less shoots. In general, the more productive the variety, the less overgrowth. Sea buckthorn forms an average number of shoots. This growth should be removed carefully (covering up the damage) so as not to cause the death of the bush. Viburnum, golden currant, sheferdia give little shoots. Remedies for overgrowth There is an abundance of chemicals on the market now, using which overgrowth can be defeated fairly quickly. These drugs are called arboricides, with their help you can not only remove shoots, but even destroy entire trees. However, such strong chemistry can harm nature and surrounding plants, so it can only be used as a last resort. Weed herbicides Weed control herbicides are slightly safer. How to use herbicides to remove overgrowth? You can just water the shoots and trees with herbicides, but there will be no sense from this - the leaves and grass around will dry up, and the next year the shoots will start growing again. Therefore, it is necessary to use herbicides to combat trees and shoots in several stages. 1. Cut trees in autumn In autumn, when there is a downward flow of substances in plants, I advise you to cut down the tree at a height of about 25-30 cm, making the saw cut even. 2. Make holes in the saw cut Using a drill, make vertical holes 5-10 cm deep in the saw cut. Larger holes should be made, so choose the maximum diameter of the drill. The number of holes usually depends on the diameter of the cut: with a diameter of 12-16 cm holes, at least 6-8 pieces with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 cm are needed; with a diameter of 30-35 cm - 15-17 holes, etc. Drill holes closer to the borders of the cut, and not in its center - this way you will get into the conductive layers, and not into the wood. 3. Fill the holes with herbicide We will fill the holes with herbicide. Glyphosate-based products, such as Roundup, are suitable. It must be diluted in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:5, and then pour the resulting solution into the holes. 4. Cover the saw cut After the herbicide has been poured into the holes, the saw cut must be covered with plastic wrap or a regular bag. Shelter saw cut is necessary so that the preparation does not lose its strength under the rays of the sun, in order to exclude its evaporation and protect it from external moisture, which can wash out the preparation or reduce its concentration. The shelter will also protect neighboring plants from the effects of the drug, because heavy rain can wash the drug out of the hole, flowing down the trunk, the herbicide will fall into the zone of vital activity of other plants. 5. Repeat the procedure Approximately 5-6 days later, it is advisable to renew the holes: drill deeper or drill a little wider with a thicker drill, fill again with the drug in the same concentration and cover with a film. If necessary, you can repeat this operation again, but usually two is enough. 6. Uproot trees in spring After the second procedure, leave the plants alone until spring, and in the spring start uprooting already dried up and completely dead plants. When uprooting, be very careful to remove all parts of the plant's root system from the soil. Even a small part of the roots remaining in the soil can lead to the restoration of growth activity, and the shoots will reappear on the site. Herbicide Safety Precautions Always wear safety goggles, a respirator and protective gloves when handling herbicide. After use, they must be burned, their repeated use may lead to poisoning. In case of accidental ingestion of the herbicide, immediately call a doctor and vomit; in case of contact with skin or eyes, rinse with plenty of water. The perfect greenhouse for autumn installation Autumn is the time to take stock of the summer season and prepare for the next one. Now is the right time to install a greenhouse. What greenhouses do agronomists recommend to get a guaranteed harvest even in the hottest summer? Antonov Sad. Newsletter A selection of the most popular news, useful announcements, free events and contests. Join the community of enthusiastic summer residents. MY GARDEN Newsfeed Q&A Advertisements Members Gifts Help COTTAGE CALENDAR GARDEN AND GARDEN FLOWERS AND PLANTS COUNTRY DESIGN HOUSEHOLD USEFUL RECIPES About the project Install mobile application For cooperation, write to [email protected] User agreement Privacy Help Contacts Any use of the material is allowed only with the written consent of the editors © Antonov Sad - a site for enthusiastic summer residents Welcome to our cozy corner! We are happy to communicate and look forward to the light of amateur flower growers, knowledgeable gardeners and experimenters who will give advice and answer questions. We eagerly collect articles, video instructions, photos and master classes all over Russia so that interesting and necessary materials are convenient read and see. Now there are already 2000 articles about growing tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, caring for apple, pear and plum trees, sowing seeds for seedlings, in a greenhouse and in open ground, shaping trees and shrubs, pinching and pinching vegetables, feeding flowers. It is especially important for summer residents to determine the exact planting dates and favorable days for sowing, watering, fertilizing and pruning. To do this, we regularly publish the current Lunar calendar and post a list of seasonal work from January to December. Sections are filled with notes on the agricultural practices of fruits, berries, flowers and vegetables. There are clever gardening techniques for all climate regions. When to plant onions and garlic in the suburbs? How to care for grapes in the Middle lane? What varieties to choose for the Far East? How to cover roses in Siberia? Every day we add texts on how to keep seedlings healthy, protect young seedlings from adversity and provide residents of a suburban area with a complete diet and proper nutrition. Visitors are happy to share their observations about how the inhabitants of greenhouses and beds are gaining strength. Together we are looking for effective ways to effectively combat diseases and pests, we calculate the norms of top dressing and fertilizers. Want to show off the biggest tomatoes? Choosing the best samples for salting? Strive to serve an early harvest to the table? Trying reliable ways to get rid of weeds? Feel free to ask in the "Question-Answer" section and get quick and accurate answers. Experienced experts, agronomists, researchers and experienced amateurs will proudly introduce you to personal life hacks and tips. Gardeners passionately create amazing oases filled with plant beauty and bountiful harvests! Tell us how you settled exotic guests in the beds, what overseas novelties you ventured to try. Show pictures and describe observations of the garden. The editors and readers will be happy to learn what is grown in Transbaikalia and Primorye, the Leningrad and Moscow regions. Do you sell and buy seedlings? Looking for rare collectible seeds? Place private ads for buying and selling, searching for and providing services. What if there are giant tomatoes of the author's selection right in your region or sent from the Urals! Well, when you want to take a break from what you love, check out Healthy Recipes for a Healthy Body and a Tasty Table. Simple masks and creams at home, gourmet preparations, salads, compotes and kebabs - everything that pleases the season and resembles the taste of fresh fruits on winter evenings. Antonov Garden welcomes everyone for whom dacha and farming are a source of joy and a piece of the soul! Tips and tricks: how to remove young growth of trees from the site The problem of the growth of young shoots of shrubs and trees is familiar to many owners of garden plots. Such a picture not only spoils the appearance of land ownership, but also makes it difficult for the growth and nutrition of the main plants, does not allow them to be properly looked after and mow the grass. The growth contributes to the spread of various diseases and pests, which reduce the yield of mother trees, and subsequently lead to their death. Therefore, gardeners are trying various methods to get rid of young shoots and are looking for ways to remove the growth of trees from the site with the least physical cost. Reasons for the appearance of young shoots Before removing the growth, you need to find out why it appears. After all, this may be a signal that the mother plant is in adverse conditions. By removing the source that provokes the growth of shoots, you will not allow them to appear in the future. Here are the main reasons for the growth of shoots next to fruit trees: The tree was planted too high and its root was exposed. Mechanical damage to the plant (broken branches or damaged bark). When digging the soil near the tree, the roots are touched. Scion and rootstock incompatibility. Sudden changes in temperature. Old tree. Plum, cherry, apple, lilac and raspberry shoots grow most often. Shoot removal methods To get rid of shoots, gardeners use two methods: chemical and mechanical. Chemical When using chemicals, less effort and time will be spent on the fight against undergrowth. But this method can not always be used, as it is not safe for the mother tree and other plants. You can safely use chemicals when you have just acquired a neglected farmstead, and nothing useful grows on it, except for undergrowth. Although in this case you should not get carried away with large doses of poison, because on a land oversaturated with chemicals there will not be a fruitful harvest for several more years. A number of preparations (arboricides) have been developed that are designed to remove unwanted plants. Chemicals are used in cases where, in addition to the shoots, they plan to destroy unnecessary trees or shrubs. If a simple spray is enough to remove grass, then one watering will not work to kill a tree. Preparations can be applied in the following ways: Stump treatment - cut down a tree and treat the stump with arboricides. Irrigation - notches or holes are drilled into the trunk to expose the wood. Spray it with pesticides so that the substance gets on the bare part of the tree or into the hole. Spraying the leaves of a plant with a pesticide solution. Injection of herbicides with syringes with thick needles directly into the wood. Preparations most effective against young shoots: Tornado; Roundup; Hurricane; Alaz; Agrokiller; Glisol; Zero. Pesticides are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 or otherwise specified in the instructions. To achieve the result, the work will need to be done several times. In order for the poison to have an effective effect, important points must be remembered: Treat shoots only in calm and clear weather at a temperature of +12…25°C. When metal interacts with chemicals, the effectiveness of the solution decreases, so it must be kneaded in a non-metallic container. Add a few drops of vegetable oil to the emulsion for effect. Saltpeter, amine and even ordinary rock salt are used to destroy overgrowth. Mechanical This approach to removing tree growth from a site is less damaging to the mother plant, but more labor intensive. Here you need a sharp tool in the form of an ax or a shovel and persistent perseverance. Near each shoot, you need to dig to the place where its root departs from the root of the main plant. It is necessary to cut off the horizontal (not vertical) part of the root, otherwise the growth will grow even more intensively. To prevent the shoots from growing too fast, you need: Control sprouts in early spring, when they are still very small and mature, or in late autumn, when the main trees no longer bear fruit. Learn more How to care for live oak trees How to hang an orchid on a tree How long olive tree can live How to make popcorn strings for the christmas tree How many trees do humans cut down a year How do you put christmas lights on palm trees How to eat chestnuts from a tree How to remove tree sap from your hair How long for almond tree to produce How tall fig trees grow How to put ornaments on christmas tree