How to repair damaged tree


First Aid for Storm-Damaged Trees

Hank Stelzer

Forestry State Specialist
School of Natural Resources

In the aftermath of a severe ice or wind storm, many homeowners ask a simple question about their trees: Will they survive? That question arises from the initial impulse to "get this mess cleaned up." But hasty decisions can often result in removing trees that could have been saved. Follow these simple guidelines in administering first aid to your trees after a storm.

Figure 1
The nearest trees on the right in this Buffalo, Missouri, neighborhood will need to be replaced, but those in the background will survive with proper care.

Mike Van Beck, MU Landscape Services, photo
 

Be patient

Any medical first-responder will tell you that Rule No. 1 is to stay calm. Doing the right things right can make the difference between giving your trees a good chance of survival and losing them unnecessarily.

City officials, utility workers and private tree-care firms must focus first on dealing with hazards to life and property. After that, one of the city's major tasks is the removal of storm debris, damaged branches and sometimes entire trees. Homeowners should be aware that a tree between the street and sidewalk is typically city-owned and is the city's responsibility.

Trees are amazingly resilient and many recover with proper care and time. Despite the urge to do something immediately, try to be patient. As long as a damaged tree does not pose an immediate physical risk, the advice is simple: If you're unsure about its condition, keep the tree for now.

Be safe

First aid measures for trees after a major storm almost always involve the use of chain saws. Pruning and removing limbs from storm-damaged trees is not the same as cutting firewood from a treetop already on the ground. Branches and trees that are twisted and bent are usually under tremendous strain that is undetectable to the untrained eye. The quick release of that stored energy by cutting with a chain saw can have unpredictable and dangerous results. For safety's sake, bent trees and branches larger than 6 inches in diameter should be removed by someone with more experience than the weekend woodcutter.

Look up and look down. Be alert for hanging branches that look like they're ready to fall. Stay away from downed utility lines. Low-voltage telephone or cable lines and even fence wires can become electrically charged when near fallen or broken electrical lines.

If you decide to administer first aid using a chain saw, before pulling the starter rope read MU Extension publications G1958, Felling, Limbing and Bucking Trees, for the basics of felling a tree, and G1959, Operating a Chain Saw Safely, for safety reminders that should be followed each time you pick up a chain saw.

Don't be a victim of a scam

Whatever professional help you seek, make your decision wisely, as it will have long-term consequences for your trees. Again, be patient.

During large-scale disasters, using a local professional may not be practical. However, do not be pressured into hiring people with chain saws who knock on your door offering to remove or "repair" your trees. Unfortunately, many such individuals have little or no training, and some have little interest in removing anything but money from the pocketbooks of unsuspecting residents.

However, in a widespread disaster, arborists from around the country may travel to the area to help aid in recovery. In this case, professional arborists may very well be knocking on doors as they participate in coordinated efforts to canvas large areas. Follow these guidelines to determine the qualifications of the person knocking on your door:

  • If possible, determine if they are part of an established business in the community or nearby area. If they are from out of town, look on the side of the truck for a company name and location. Then, in either case, check for a phone listing, usually under Tree Service.
  • Ask for current certificates of insurance showing that they are fully insured for property damage, personal liability and worker compensation. Call the insurer for verification.
  • Ideally, the company should on staff a member of a professional association such as the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), National Arborist Association (NAA) or American Society of Consulting Arborists (ASCA). Certified arborists are trained and have access to current technical information on tree care, repair and removal.

Assess the damage

Before writing off a damaged tree as a goner, ask yourself the following questions:

  • Other than the storm damage, is the tree basically healthy and vigorous? If the tree is basically healthy, is not creating a hazard, and did not suffer major structural damage, it will generally recover if first aid measures are applied.
  • Are major limbs broken? The larger a broken limb is, the harder it will be for the tree to recover from the damage. If a majority of the main branches are gone, the tree may have little chance of surviving.
  • Has the leader (the main upward-trending branch on most trees) been lost? In species where a leader is important to upward growth or desirable appearance, this may have to be a judgment call. The tree may live without its leader but, at best, would be a stunted or deformed version of the original.
  • Is at least 50 percent of the tree's crown (branches) still intact? This is a good rule of thumb on tree survivability. A tree with less than half of its branches remaining may not be able to produce enough foliage to nourish the tree through the coming growing season.
  • How big are the wounds where branches have been broken or bark has been damaged? The larger the wound is in relation to the size of the limb, the less likely it is to heal, leaving the tree vulnerable to disease and pests. A 2- to 3-inch wound on a 12-inch diameter limb will seal over with new bark within a couple of years.
  • Are there remaining branches that can form a new branch structure? The remaining limbs will grow more vigorously as the tree tries to replace its missing foliage. Check if branches are in place that can eventually fill out the tree's appearance.
  • Is the tree of a desirable species for its location? The best decision may be to remove the tree if the tree is not only seriously damaged but also is in the wrong location, such as a potentially tall tree beneath a power line, or is an undesirable species for the property, such as messy fruit.

Make a decision

The questions listed above will help you make informed decisions about your trees. In general, the decision about a particular tree will fall into one of three categories.

Figure 2
Although the tree has been damaged, enough strong limbs may remain on a basically healthy tree to make saving it possible.
 

1. Keep it
If damage is relatively slight, prune the broken branches, repair torn bark or rough edges around wounds, and let the tree begin the process of wound repair.

A mature shade tree can usually survive the loss of one major limb. The broken branch should be pruned back to the trunk. In the following months, large wounds should be monitored closely for signs of decay.

Young trees can sustain quite a bit of damage and still recover quickly. If the leader is intact and the structure for future branching remains, remove the broken branches and let the tree close over the wounds and recover itself.

Figure 3
A healthy mature tree can recover even when several major limbs are damaged.
 

2. Wait and see
Resist the temptation to simply cut down the tree and be done with it. Wait a while and think it over. Remember, time is on your side. Carefully prune broken branches. Then, give the tree some time to recover. You can make a final decision later.

Also resist the temptation to prune too heavily. The tree will need all the foliage it can produce to survive the next growing season. Remove only the damaged limbs, then wait and see how the tree does. For large trees, a professional arborist should be brought in to assess damage on a borderline situation and to safely accomplish needed pruning and branch removal.

3. Replace it
Some trees simply can't be saved or are not worth saving. If the tree has already been weakened by disease, the trunk is split, or more than 50 percent of the crown is gone, the tree has lost its survival edge (Figures 4, 5 and 6).

Figure 4
This otherwise healthy young tree has lost too much of its crown. It will probably not be able to grow enough new branches and leaves to provide needed nourishment, and will never be able to regain its former beautiful shape.
Figure 5
About all that's left of this tree is its trunk. The few remaining branches can't provide enough foliage to enable the tree to make it through another growing season.
Figure 6
A rotten inner core in the trunk or structural weakness in branching patterns can cause a split trunk — the tree equivalent of a heart attack. The wounds are too large to ever mend, and the tree has lost its sap lifeline between roots and leaves. This tree is all but dead.
 

Basic tree first aid you can provide

Resist the urge to overprune
Don't worry if the tree's appearance isn't perfect. With branches gone, trees may look unbalanced or naked. You'll be surprised at how fast they will heal, grow new foliage and return to their natural beauty.

Remove any broken branches still attached to the tree
Removing the jagged remains of smaller broken limbs is a common repair property owners can make after a storm. Done properly, it will minimize the risk of decay agents entering the wound. Prune smaller branches at the point where they join larger ones. Cut large broken branches back to the trunk or a main limb. As you prune, make clean cuts in the sequence shown in Figure 7 to help the tree to recover faster.

Figure 7
For the appearance and health of the tree, prune large branches with this sequence of cuts.
 

Repair torn bark
To improve the tree's appearance and eliminate hiding places for insects, carefully use a sharp chisel or knife to smooth the ragged edges of wounds where bark has been torn away (Figure 8). Try not to expose any more of the cambium (greenish inner bark) than necessary because these fragile layers contain the tree's food and water lifelines between roots and leaves.

Figure 8
Avoid tearing the bark when pruning. Clean ragged wounds in the bark to avoid further damage.
 

Don't top your trees!
Untrained individuals may urge you to cut back all of the tree's branches in the mistaken belief that reducing the length of branches will help avoid breakage in future storms. Although storm damage may not allow for ideal pruning cuts, professional arborists say that "topping" — cutting main branches back to stubs — is one of the worst things you can do to a tree. Stubs tend to grow back many weakly attached branches that are even more likely to break when a storm strikes.

Also, the tree will need all its resources to recover from the stress of storm damage. Topping the tree would reduce the amount of foliage, on which the tree depends for the food and nourishment needed for regrowth. A topped tree that has already sustained major storm damage is more likely to die than repair itself. At best, its recovery will be retarded, and it will almost never regain its original shape or beauty.

For further information

  • Basic Pruning Guidelines, Missouri Department of Conservation (PDF), https://mdc.mo.gov/sites/default/files/2020-04/basicPruning.pdf
Acknowledgments: Artwork courtesy of the National Arbor Day Foundation.

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Tree Wounds | Tree Care Kit

Wayne K. Clatterbuck Associate Professor Forestry, Wildlife & Fisheries University of Tennessee

Tree wounds are common and the causes include: broken branches; impacts, abrasions and scrapes; animal damage; insect attack; fire; etc. Wounds usually break the bark and damage the food and water conducting tissues. Wounds also expose the inside of the tree to organisms, primarily bacteria and fungi that may infect and cause discoloration and decay of the wood. Decay can result in structurally weakened tree stems and can shorten the life of a tree. Decay cannot be cured. However, proper tree care can limit the progress of decay in an injured tree. This fact sheet discusses tree responses to wounding and what can be done after wounding to keep the tree healthy.

Tree Response to Wounding:

Trees respond to wounding or injury in two ways: compartmentalization and the development of barrier zones (Shigo 1986).

Compartmentalization

When a tree is wounded, the injured tissue is not repaired and does not heal. Trees do not heal; they seal. If you look at an old wound, you will notice that it does not “heal” from the inside out, but eventually the tree covers the opening by forming specialized “callus” tissue around the edges of the wound. After wounding, new wood growing around the wound forms a protective boundary preventing the infection or decay from spreading into the new tissue. Thus, the tree responds to the injury by “compartmentalizing” or isolating the older, injured tissue with the gradual growth of new, healthy tissue.

Barrier Zones

Not only do trees try to close the damaged tissue from the outside, they also make the existing wood surrounding the wound unsuitable for spread of decay organisms. Although these processes are not well understood, the tree tries to avoid further injury by setting chemical and physical boundaries around the infected cells, reacting to the pathogen and confining the damage.

If the tree is fast and effective with its boundary-setting mechanisms, the infection remains localized and does not spread. However, if the boundary-setting mechanisms are not effective, the infection will spread. Most vigorous or actively growing trees are fairly successful in coping with decay-spreading mechanisms.

Care for Tree Wounds:

Proper care of tree wounds encourages callus growth and wound closure.

Physical Repair

Tree wounds often appear ragged where the bark is torn during the injury. This is common during branch breakage and when the trunk of the tree has been scraped. To repair this type of damage, cut off any ragged bark edges with a sharp knife. Take care not to remove any healthy bark and expose more live tissue than necessary. If possible, the wound should be shaped like an elongated oval, with the long axis running vertically along the trunk or limb. All bark around the wound should be tight.

Wound Dressings

Research indicates that wound dressings (materials such as tar or paint) do not prevent decay and may even interfere with wound closure. Wound dressings can have the following detrimental effects:

  • Prevent drying and encourage fungal growth
  • Interfere with formation of wound wood or callus tissue
  • Inhibit compartmentalization
  • Possibly serve as a food source for pathogens

For these reasons, applying wound dressings is not recommended. Trees, like many organisms, have their own mechanisms to deter the spread of decay organisms, insects and disease.

Cavity Filling

Filling large holes or hollows in the tree is generally done for cosmetic reasons. There is little data to indicate that a filled tree has better mechanical stability. However, fillings may give the callus tissue a place to seat, thus stopping the in-roll (folding) of the callus (Shigo 1982). Almost any filling can be used as long as it does not abrade the inside of the tree.

Filling a tree cavity is generally expensive and not recommended. Filling does not stop decay and often during the cleaning of the cavity, the boundary that separates the sound wood or the callus growth from the decayed wood is ruptured. Thus, this cleaning for cavity filling can have more detrimental effects on the tree than if it were left alone. Care must be taken not to damage the new callus tissue that has formed in response to the tree damage and subsequent decay.

Pruning Wounds

Proper pruning should be used to remove dead, dying and broken branches; to remove low, crossing or hazardous branches; and to control the size of the tree. However, pruning of any kind places some stress on the tree by removing food-producing leaves (if the branch is alive), creating wounds that require energy to seal, and providing possible entry points for disease.

Pruning cuts should be made to maximize the tree’s ability to close its wound and defend itself from infection. When pruning, make clean, smooth cuts. Do not leave branch stubs. Leave a small collar of wood at the base of the branch. The branch collar is a slightly swollen area where the branch attaches to the trunk. Cutting the limb flush with the trunk will leave a larger area to callus over and a greater chance of decay organisms entering the wound. The optimal pruning time is in the winter (dormant season) when temperatures and infection rates are lower and when trees are not actively growing.

Conclusion. Healthy trees usually recover from wounding quickly. Try to keep wounded trees growing vigorously by watering them during droughts and providing proper fertilization. This will increase the rate of wound closure, enhance callus growth and improve the resistance to decay mechanisms.

References

Shigo, A.L. 1982. Tree health. Journal of Arboriculture 8(12):311-316.

Shigo, A.L. 1986. A New Tree Biology. Shigo Trees & Associates, Durham, NH. 595 p.

How to save a tree with damaged bark at any cost - how to properly and quickly restore an apple, apricot, cherry, cherry tree in 2022 on GoodGrunt

Contents

  • 3 golden rules
  • Tactics for treating minor wounds
  • An effective recipe for quick healing of wounds on wood
  • Recipes for homemade healing putty
  • What to do with deep and voluminous damage to the bark?
  • Treatment of bark detachments
  • Wound dressing
  • Grafting of cuttings with a bridge
  • Inlaying new bark
  • Saw cutting of the stem for re-growth
  • Questions and answers

Spring is a time of unpleasant surprises for the gardener. After winter, cracks, detachments and gnaws are often found on tree trunks. Fortunately, saving a tree with damaged bark is easy. If the wound is not deep, a disinfectant solution and any putty or even ordinary film will help. With serious damage, the situation is different. This will require some knowledge. And a sharp tool.

3 golden rules

Experienced gardeners are not afraid of damaged tree bark. The plant can be cured in 99% of cases. But first you need to learn a few rules:

  1. Saving the cambium first. Cambium is a thin light layer between wood and bast. It is thanks to him that the growth of a new bark is possible. But, being naked, the cambium quickly dries out. Therefore, it is important to close the wound as soon as possible (with a film, garden pitch).
  2. Different type of damage - different approach. There are at least 5 ways to restore the bark. Apple trees that lose their bark due to old age are treated with stripping and special putty. Heavily damaged trees are cut down for reverse growth. These and other methods are discussed in more detail below.
  3. Do not leave unattended. Until the wound on the tree heals, you need to watch him. A damaged plant is weakened, and may catch some kind of disease. In addition, for large wounds, an annual treatment of the trunk is necessary, otherwise the bark may flake off.

Attention! Any, even minor damage to the cortex is the entrance gate for infections and parasites.

Fungi and bacteria often penetrate into the "brain" of the tree through weak points. They feed on organic matter, and quickly destroy living tissue. As a result, the wood rots from the inside, and hollows appear. Therefore, it is necessary to treat the bark of a tree.

Management of minor wounds

Small lesions with preserved cambium heal themselves. The task of the gardener is to provide all the necessary conditions:

  • keep the cambium from drying out;
  • destroy infections;
  • prevent precipitation from entering the wound;

If it is not possible to immediately treat the tree, you should temporarily wrap the wound with a film. Sometimes these measures are enough for recovery.

How to quickly heal the bark with shallow injuries:

  1. Clean the damaged area (if required). For example, cut off lagging pieces of bark, cut out rotten places. To do this, use a sharp garden knife. The wound should be clean, oval in shape.
  2. Disinfect. To protect bare wood from harmful microorganisms, it is treated with a 3% solution of copper sulfate (30 g of dry matter per 1 liter of water). Warm water is used for better dissolution. The solution is applied with a soft brush or sprayed from a spray bottle.
  3. Apply medicated putty and/or wrap film around the barrel. Garden putties with nigrol in the composition have proven themselves in the best way. An ordinary garden var will also work. The ointment is applied in a continuous thin layer. It is best to do this with your hands, after putting on gloves. Wrapping film after this is not required. It is used to fix homemade putties (for example, from mullein and clay), and to prevent their blurring. Also, the film will help out if the putty is not at hand. It will protect the wound from precipitation.

An effective recipe for fast healing of tree wounds

Many experienced gardeners are abandoning the old methods. They claim that when treated with putties, new bark grows more slowly. Instead, they use the following recipe:

  1. Clean the wound surface.
  2. Dissolve 1 tablet of Heteroauxin in 50 ml of 50% alcohol. Dilute 10 liters of water.
  3. Moisten gauze.
  4. Apply to the wound.
  5. Wrap tightly with foil.

"Heteroauxin" - a growth stimulator. It accelerates the process of restoration of connective tissue. Works even more effectively in tandem with self-decomposing garden film. It is elastic, transmits light, but does not allow water to pass through. Self-destructs under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Recipes for homemade healing putty

Sometimes special putty is not available. Or damage takes up a huge area of ​​the tree bark. To heal such a wound, you would have to use several cans of putty. And this is a lot of money.

In such cases, come to the rescue:

  1. Mullein and clay (1 to 1). Clay is diluted with warm water, then mullein is introduced into the solution. Add water if necessary. The mixture should be thick, like sour cream.
  2. Mullein 400 g, slaked lime 200 g, ash 200 g, river sand 25 g. Mix thoroughly. The mixture should be the consistency of batter. It is smeared with a layer of 0.5 cm and sprinkled with a powder of 30 g of chalk and 5 g of ash.
  3. Water 1.5 l, blue vitriol 75 g, slaked lime fluff 1.25 kg, clay 2.5 kg, ash 1.25 kg. Separately, dissolve copper sulfate in a small amount of warm water. Soak the clay in the remaining water for 1-2 hours. Combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Get a plastic, thick putty.

In extreme cases, wood soil can be used instead of putty.

What to do with deep and volume damage to the cortex?

Damage of 5 cm by 15 cm or more is considered significant. In such a situation, a fundamentally different approach is needed:

  • cut the trunk back;
  • grafting cuttings;
  • cortex rejuvenation;
  • wound dressing followed by stimulation of connective tissue growth.

Beginning gardeners often wonder how to save a tree with damaged bark? They are interested in details. Therefore, let's start with the basics:

  1. The treatment of major wounds always begins with debridement of the wound surface. It is important to remove all dead tissue. Together with it, a part of living wood (0.5-2 cm) is also removed.
  2. Cuts are made only with a sharpened tool. The edges of the wound should be smooth.
  3. Even small bridges of living bark are preserved as much as possible.
  4. The instrument must be disinfected (alcohol, 5% copper sulphate solution or other antiseptic).
  5. A severely damaged trunk is protected from freezing. A naked tree is prone to frost cracks in winter. After treatment, it is necessary to cover the trunk with spruce branches, roofing felt, spandbond. Shelter reduces the risk of new problems. But at the same time it is important that the tree does not rot. Otherwise, it is better to skip this paragraph.

Rodents raid orchards mainly in frosty winters in February and March. They prefer young apple trees, apricots, plums and cherries to all other trees. For pest control, it is better to prepare and learn in the winter than to process apple trees and other trees from uninvited guests in the spring.

Treatment of cortical detachments

Old trees are more prone to peeling of the bark. But blaming old age is wrong. First, the bark cracks under the influence of frost and heat. Then fungi, bacteria, pathogens of black cancer, anthracnose fall under it. Finally, ants and various pests (for example, bark beetle) begin to settle inside the cracks.

How to treat the falling bark of an apple tree and any other tree:

  1. Cover the trunk circle with foil.
  2. Scrap the trunk with a scraper, garden knife or stiff brush.
  3. Take the garbage on the film out of the area.
  4. Treat the trunk with 3% copper sulphate solution.
  5. Wait for the wood to dry.
  6. Coat cleaned areas with homemade putty (see recipes above).
  7. Wrap with a bandage or burlap to make the putty last longer and not be washed away by rain.
  8. Instead of putty, you can use whitewash with a 3% solution of copper sulfate.

The best time to regenerate the bark is early spring. Together with the beginning of sap flow, the wounds will begin to actively heal.

How to restore the bark on an apple tree after peeling is shown in the video:

Wound Putty

Major wounds, including old ones, can be treated as follows:

  1. Clean the wound of damaged tissue.
  2. Treat with a disinfectant solution.
  3. Apply healing putty (see recipe #3 above).
  4. In the spring, clean off the remaining ointment, and remove a thin layer of bark around the perimeter of the wound.
  5. Disinfect and seal again.

The procedure must be repeated annually. Removal of the cortex is necessary to stimulate the growth of connective tissue. The young bark will float on the bare trunk, and in 2-4 years the wound will completely heal.

Grafting cuttings with a bridge

The method is used for ring and other serious damage to the bark with the destruction of the cambium. For grafting, one-year-old cuttings are selected, preferably apple or pear (you can wild). They should be 3-4 cm longer than the wound. A bridge is made from the cuttings to provide the tree trunk with food.

Required:

  1. Clean the wound surface.
  2. Disinfect with 1-3% copper sulfate solution.
  3. Prepare cuttings: remove all buds, cut the ends obliquely.
  4. Make T-shaped incisions in the cortex below and above the wound.
  5. Insert the cuttings into the cuts at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other.
  6. Cover wounds with garden pitch or other putty.
  7. Wrap the trunk at the junction of the cuttings with the tree with foil.

New bark inlay

Not a very popular method. Requires great precision. Its essence lies in the fact that in case of severe damage to the trunk, engraft a healthy bark to a bare place. The patch is cut from a thick branch of the same tree. It must match exactly in size.

A new bark is placed on the cleaned wound, taking into account the direction of growth on the donor branch. For fixing use electrical tape. The event is held in early spring. In autumn, the winding is removed.

Reverse growth of the trunk

The most radical way to save a tree with damaged bark. Used only in extreme cases. For example, with ring bites with complete destruction of the cambium. The tree is cut down above the lower bud, and the cut is smeared with garden pitch.

It is important to be in time before the start of sap flow. Then in the spring the tree will release dense shoots. The strongest shoot is selected from it, and the rest are removed. Over time, the shoot will turn into a new trunk.

Reverse cut dangerous for trees under 5 years old. The root system of the young is still weak, and cannot provide the plant with a sufficient amount of nutrients.

Questions and answers

Questioner: Why is it not always possible to save a tree with damaged bark?

Answer: Biology tells us (school material, grades 5-6): “The bark of a tree serves as a protection for the cambium from damage and drying out. The cambium provides nourishment and growth for the tree. The cambium cells divide and new bark and wood are formed.” With circular damage to the trunk with the destruction of the cambium, the tree dies, as the nutrients cease to circulate, and new bark cannot grow. Damage to 1/2 of the barrel diameter also in 90% of cases lead to the death of the plant.

Question: How to protect the bark of a tree from damage?

Answer: A set of measures is being taken for this. In late autumn, trees are whitewashed with special compounds to disinfect the bark and repel pests and rodents. Young trees are wrapped with spruce branches, put on a bottle trunk and cover material is used to avoid frost holes. In parks and gardens, fine-mesh nets are installed around trunks to protect against the sharp teeth of hares and mice, lawn mower knives and vandal hands. Additionally, traps and repellers are used from rodents: poisoned baits, tin cans, rustling bags, bright rags, etc.

Question: How to determine who has chewed on the bark?

Answer: The mouse gnaws the bark with a thin ring. The bites are shallow, do not touch the cambium. A hare and a goat peel off the skin in a whole layer, often along with the cambium. They also like to feast on the ends of the lower branches. They can reach very high.

Rescuing a tree with damaged bark in the hands of a gardener. It is necessary to act immediately, before the cambium is dry. Tape can serve as a first aid. With small wounds, the bark can be restored with a disinfectant putty, medium wounds with putty, followed by scratching the edges of the growing bark. And if the damage is serious, you will have to do the inlay, or even better - the grafting of the cuttings.

How to heal damage to the bark of fruit trees

How to heal damage to the bark of a fruit tree

Friends, in this article I will talk about the treatment of tree bark. Many gardeners are aware of the sad consequences of the invasion of rodents, mice and water voles in garden plots.

If it was not possible to avoid damage, then it is necessary to help the tree and take measures to eliminate the consequences of the “feast” of winter visitors to the dacha.

If the bark of a young tree is slightly damaged

Sometimes you need to repair the damage left by a lawnmower or trimmer. If the stem is torn to half, then the seedling will recover, but if along the ring, then, alas, it is easier to plant a new one.

It is better to understand this right away while the tree is young, otherwise you will be treated for a long and tedious time. By the way, I recommend setting up protective screens before cutting the grass!

Or at least fence the tree with pegs on four sides. It is easier to manually remove the grass under the trunk.

Hares and goats also like to leave "footprints" behind them . After the activity of these mammals, bites remain that need to be identified and treated in time until the tree dies.

The material will be useful to all gardeners who, after winter, may find on their site that the bark of a young tree is damaged. What to do and how to restore trunks crippled by rodents - this will be discussed today.

A fruit tree damaged by a hare - bites

If a bite is found before the start of warming, then the cambium is still alive. The cambium is a thin succulent layer between the bark and the wood, thanks to which the tree grows in thickness and builds up the bark that has moved away.

The most common victims are apricots and apple trees

The degree of damage to the tree depends on the person who bit and on which fruit tree was damaged. Of the local species, rarely grown apricot trees

and apple trees, which are often found in our area, suffer the most.

Irga tolerates bites much better, unlike the previous two species, continuing to grow, as if nothing had happened.

The rest of the fruit trees suffer from biting in about the same way. Except the pear…

Oddly enough, for some reason, it is pear trees that rodents and other mammalian pests most often bypass. Therefore, if the trunk of your pear is damaged, then this is most likely the result of a freezer.

Fighting the water vole

The most dangerous situation for a tree is when a water vole intends to eat its bark.

Garden pest - water vole

This pest, erroneously called the water rat, gnaws through the root system, so the gardener is often simply unable to notice the damage in time.

A previously healthy tree simply withers before our eyes or falls. If the gardener was lucky and managed to find the bites on time, then to the tree from two sides, if it is large - then from four, you need to plant and graft the seedlings, and tie the tree itself to stakes. The crown of the tree needs to be heavily trimmed to balance its above-ground and underground parts.

Enemies of the garden - hares and goats Hares gnawed fruit trees in the garden - what to do?

Hares and goats are the second most dangerous to the garden. After their “feast”, a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe tree suffers.

Sometimes goats give a tree a chance by peeling off its bark in a narrow strip. I was recently asked what to do if the leaves of a young fruit tree were bitten by goats.

I answer - if the trunk was not damaged, then you don’t have to worry , the tree will recover in a season. In the future, try to keep the goats away from plantings - for them, these leaves are a real delicacy.

How to restore the bark

If the damage is not more than ½ of the tree diameter, then the plant can be helped. To treat the bark of trees, the wound must be covered with cow dung, half mixed with clay and tied on top with plastic wrap and roofing felt.

Tree bark balm

If the cambium is dead , then healing will be extremely slow and only after a few years, perhaps the edges of the wound will close. To stimulate the growth of living tissues, it is necessary to periodically scratch along their edges and cover the wound with var.

If the cambium is preserved - the bite was found in time, then over time a new bark will grow under the bandage. In the summer, it will be necessary to do the same dressing one more time, having previously cleaned the wound of dead tissue.

If the trunk is mutilated by more than half the diameter of , then the treatment of the tree bark should be started by wrapping the trunk with stretch film. The film will create a space inaccessible to air and moisture; you can also replace it with polyethylene. Fix roofing material on top. If the cambium remains, the bark will grow over time, if not, bridges will have to be made in the spring.

Preparing a bridge for a tree: in winter or early spring, shoots of this variety (you can use another), which are highly winter-hardy, fifteen centimeters longer than the wound, should be cut off in winter or early spring, wrapped in wet plastic wrap and dripped into a snowdrift on the north side of the house and fill it with sawdust.

Treatment of tree bark - Bridges on a fruit tree

Towards the end of spring , somewhere in the middle of May it is necessary to make sure that the cambium has died. If so, then you need to get vaccinated.

If more than half the diameter of the shaft is damaged, bridges must be installed anyway. If this is not done in time, the tree will simply dry out. Then it remains only to cut it down and try to grow a new one from sleeping buds.

Mice trunk injuries: the least dangerous are the damage caused by mice. They usually do not have time to get to the cambium, destroying only the top layer of the bark. In this case, it is enough just to wrap the damage with plastic wrap.

If the wounds are discovered in time for and the cambium with a layer of bark has not dried up, then the tree will recover quite quickly. Even if the cambium with the bark dies, but this layer is narrow, up to a centimeter, then the wound will heal under the film.

Treatment of tree bark - Bridge on an adult fruit plant

If the gnaws were discovered late , then it may be necessary to build bridges or inlay bark from another tree.


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