How to repair fiskars tree pruner
How to Replace the Pull Rope on My Fiskars Limb Pole | Home Guides
By Laura Reynolds Updated January 04, 2022
Fiskars pole trimmers come in several models, but all allow safe tree pruning from 15 to 18 feet high from the ground. Trimmers feature adjustable or two-piece poles with a remote lopper on one end. Several pole trimmers have a pruning saw to handle larger branches. Fiskars sells replacement parts for all of the tool-ends of its pole trimmers and restringing the double-pulley pull rope is simple.
Cotton laundry line does just fine for restringing a limb pruning pole, or you can use a combination cotton-polyester designed for outdoor use. If you want to use a plastic rope, cauterize its ends with heat from a flame to keep it from unraveling. Take care to keep the flame far away from the rope to avoid setting it on fire.
How to Replace the Pull Rope on My Fiskars Limb Pole
Remove the old rope, taking particular note of how it loops over the two pulleys. Two pulleys give the blade the mechanical advantage it needs to cut branches up to 2 inches thick. Use a screwdriver or awl to push the rope through pulleys and untie knots, advises Fiskars Europe.
Thread one end of the rope through the top pulley from the outside in toward the cutting blade assembly.
Pull the rope through and into the slide around the bottom pulley, instructs Tree Hozz. This time, thread the rope around the pulley from the pole side toward the outside.
Continue upward with the end of the rope and run it through the clip on the end of the top pulley, again from outside through the clip, and in toward the cutting blade assembly.
Secure the rope to the clip using two half-hitches or any other knot that will hold together firmly. For a double half hitch, bring the loose end around the rope going into the clip from the bottom pulley, then through the loop. Then make a second loop around with the loose end, this time pulling the loose end between the first and second loops toward you – or in the opposite direction of the first. Pull the two loops tight by pulling the loose end and squeezing the two loops together.
Thread the other end of the rope through the eye-bolts or other guides on the poles that keep the rope secure as you work on trees.
Trim the rope with a utility knife, if needed, to just short of the extended or full length of the pole. Thread that end through the hole on the plastic pulling handle. Tie a simple knot to secure the rope on the handle.
Things You Will Need
Screw driver or awl
The cutting blade on a tree pruner is sharp. Keep your fingers out of the striking hook as you handle the pole head.
- Fiskars Europe: How to Change the Rope in the Fiskars Tree Pruner UPX86
- Tree Hozz: How Do You Replace the Rope on a Pole Pruner?
- Cotton laundry line does just fine for restringing a limb pruning pole, or you can use a combination cotton-polyester designed for outdoor use. If you want to use a plastic rope, cauterize its ends with heat from a flame to keep it from unraveling. Take care to keep the flame far away from the rope to avoid setting it on fire.
- The cutting blade on a tree pruner is sharp. Keep your fingers out of the striking hook as you handle the pole head.
An avid perennial gardener and old house owner, Laura Reynolds has had careers in teaching and juvenile justice. A retired municipal judgem Reynolds holds a degree in communications from Northern Illinois University. Her six children and stepchildren served as subjects of editorials during her tenure as a local newspaper editor.
Fiskars Pruning Stik Tree Pruner (9234): Product Review
How do you prune branches and limbs that are just out of reach that would either require a ladder or a full-fledged extendable pole pruner to get the job done? Or conversely, how would you reach into a shrub and prune it to ground level?
Traditional methods, such as using a ladder, can make for unstable and potentially unsafe pruning (without the proper arborist safety equipment), and extendable pole pruners are sometimes heavy/awkward and have exterior ropes that can get hung-up in tree branches or brushy shrubs.
I tested an intermediary product from Fiskars that reaches pruning area that are somewhere between 7’ and 10’ off the ground, and on or near the ground (so that you don’t have to bend over or kneel to make the cut).
It has a rotating and locking cutting head, is “ropeless,” and should cut through wood up to 1.25-inches in diameter.
About Fixed Length Pruners (Stick-Style)
Short, stick-style pruners typically range in length from 5’- 6’ and are an excellent way to make pruning cuts when you physically can’t reach the pruning site.
Fixed length, short stick pruners usually come in two designs: a fixed shaft with an adjustable cutting head, or a fixed cutting head with blades that can be rotated by spinning the pruning shaft. Fiskars has adopted the first design.
Some variants on design include two handles on a single aluminum tube (one in the center of the tube, and one at the end). And others are a squeeze-handle at the end opposite the cutting head. It comes down to personal choice on whatever works best for the individual and application.
The stick style pruners on the left have an adjustable cutting head, the one on the right requires you to spin the shaft.
Virtually all stick-style pruners are constructed with an aluminum shaft to reduce the weight. A cautionary note, aluminum is an excellent conductor of electricity, so an aluminum stick pruner should never be used around power lines.
Cutting heads may have an exposed spring to draw the cutting blade back into the open position once the pruning cut is finished. Other models have these same kinds of spring mechanisms built inside the aluminum shaft, cutting head, or handle at the opposite end of the pruner’s cutting blades.
Most, if not all, have a bypass cutting head, much like the type you see on hand pruners and loppers.
These types of shorter designs either incorporate a rope, nylon strap (also known as webbing), or a metal shaft to operate the blades. And virtually all the blade activation pulling mechanisms are incorporated inside the aluminum tube to eliminate exterior ropes, webbing or rods from getting stuck in whatever you’re trying to prune.
Like all tools, these shorter, fixed length pruners have a specific use. They’re great for pruning above your head (when a ladder is unnecessary), reaching into areas that are hard to get to, eliminating scratches and pokes by thorny plants, and making cuts without kneeling or excessive bending at the knees or waist.
Fiskars Pruning Stik in use
Handles on the Fiskars Pruning Stik
The Fiskars Pruning Stik Tree Pruner (ropeless) has an aluminum shaft that employs a plastic pull handle at the mid-section of the shaft and a plastic ball at the end of the pole (both for activating the cutting blade mechanism).
The handle is a comfortable tubular design that’s flared at the end closest to you. The flare is treated with a rubberized compound that made for an even better grip and stronger pulling power. I found this particularly useful when cutting through really hard wood.
One really nice feature of this handle is that the nylon webbing that acts as the pulling mechanism to activate the blades emanates from the handle area. The design lets you micro-adjust the tension of the nylon webbing.
Most webbing (and rope) materials will stretch over time. This is particularly true if you pull really hard when making pruning cuts. As the webbing stretches, it’s vital to be able to take the slack out of the pulling system. Fiskars’ unique nylon webbing design allows you to do this easily and quickly. And despite the fact that some extra webbing (about 4”) hung from the handle, I found that it never got stuck or tangled on any of the materials I was pruning.
The mid-shaft pull handle and rubberized grip make the pruner easy to hold and is perfectly positioned at the middle of the aluminum shaft for shorter pruning cuts.
Is It Really “Ropeless”?
Fiskars’ packaging highlights the word “ropeless”. Most of the interior pulling mechanism IS ropeless and uses nylon webbing. However, there is rope in the adjustable cutting head. I believe that rope must be used in this area as the nylon webbing would likely kink and cause binding, thereby rendering the cutting head inoperable. That said, the majority of the pulling mechanism is indeed “ropeless” and lives up to its advertising claim.
The blade closing material (a small rope) was neatly incorporated into the cutting head and never came loose, even when I was pruning in some incredibly dense brush.
This was also true of the spring that kept the cutting blade in the open position when not in use. It never loosened or came off even when I jammed it into a shrub to make cuts that would be very difficult with a pair of hand pruners or loppers.
Most of the Pruning Stik incorporates nylon webbing, but the cutting head uses a piece of rope to help eliminate the potential binding of the webbing.
I liked the thumb activated locking mechanism for the cutting head. It’s located right at the point where the cutting head bends. Just loosen it, move the cutting head/blades into the position you want, and tighten the lock.
I really put the tool through some brutal cutting tasks and the head stayed put. I attributed this to the superior locking feature. The orange thumb lock was not only highly visible, but it I could feel the locking mechanism tighten the head into a fixed position. The “feel” of locking the head was distinct, as was the loosening of the lever. In both cases, I knew if the head was locked or not, even without looking at the icons on the head.
The cutting head locking mechanism was extremely well designed. It never loosened up, even when pruning in the densest of pruning areas.
Making the Cut
The Puning Stik incorporates an “Activating Ball” (Fiskars-speak for a round plastic ball) at the end of the pole opposite the cutting head.
It allows you to hold the pruner at arms length while pulling the ball with one hand, thereby activating the cutting head mechanism. As a result, you can make pruning cuts farther away.
The “Activation Ball” was easy to grasp and had a molded plastic tapered tube that slid into a rectangular plastic fitting in the pole shaft. This kept the ball in place and also kept if from banging around.
An easy-to-grasp ball at the end of the Pruning Stik to make those longer pruning cuts.
The Pruning Stik made very nice cuts in live wood, especially in the ½” to 1” range. Although it’s rated to cut wood up to 1 ¼” in diameter, I found that at that diameter the handle or activation ball was hard to pull and cuts tended to be ragged. Then again, this is true with most of the pruners and loppers I’ve tried so far, where the maximum cutting diameter puts adverse stress on the tool and often results in messy cuts.
The Pruning Stik excelled in that middle ground, where a pair of hand pruners would be too small and loppers too big.
In my test, I found that the cleanest pruning cuts were made when the non-cutting blade (also known as the “counter blade”) was on the top of the limb/branch and the cutting blade on the bottom.
Clean cuts were achieve with materials ranging from ½” to 1”
Maximum diameter cuts taxed the pruner and often made ragged cuts. But this is true for most pruners and loppers when they are asked to cut material at the limits of their pruning range.
Blade Spread When Cutting Deadwood
Another thing I discovered about the Pruning Stik is “blade- spread.” It happens primarily when cutting deadwood, especially when cutting on an angle. The piece of the deadwood spreads the blades apart and gets caught between the blades, resulting in the blades getting stuck in the closed position with the two blades held apart by the wood.
Then again, this isn’t an issue specifically related to the Pruning Stik. Bypass pruners and loppers are best used with live wood, rather than deadwood, and we’ve seen this issue with most of the bypass cutting blades we’ve tested here at the Gardening Products Review. The best solution is to use an anvil pruner instead.
Blade spread while cutting through deadwood. This happens to virtually all types of bypass pruners/loppers at one time.
Rotational Cutting Head
One of the most outstanding design features was the rotational cutting head that folds over in both directions. In one direction it bent 180 degrees and in the other 60 degrees, making for an impressive 240 degrees of head rotation. The locking mechanism keeps the cutting head in whatever position you place it.
This let me angle the head for literally any cutting position I needed. I found that the 60 degree “off-center” provided additional flexibility when pruning shrubs to the ground and kept the cutting blades out of the dirt.
The adjustable head made it easy to cut materials at ground level without bending over, AND kept the cutting blades out of the dirt when cutting brush and shrubs to the ground.
The 180 degree rotational head made for easy transport and storage by keeping the sharp blades tucked against the shaft. Its full range of motion from 0 degrees to 180 degrees made it ideal for adjusting the angle to make proper pruning cuts.
Potential Problem With Older Models
So, lots of good stuff for sure, but here’s where I ran into a problem. After several hours of pruning, I then used the Pruning Stik to cut some shrubs to ground level. When I forced the cutting head into a thickly branched shrub and pulled the “Activation Ball,” nothing happened. Puzzled, I pulled the head out of the shrub only to find that the quick-link (just like a bicycle chain) had been dislodged by the dense brush. Literally, a chain link had fallen out of the “Power-Stroke” (another Fiskars trademarked name) chain drive that is attached to the cutting head. I discovered that the retaining clip that holds the two sections of steel bicycle-style chain together easily slipped off, rendering the pruner inoperable.
Cutting in dense brush, where the old style quick-link chain link met with problems.
When I called Fiskars to explain the problem, they sent me a replacement unit immediately. This replacement unit used a different chain link to secure the Power-Stroke chain to the pruning blade and it worked flawlessly – there’s no way that chain is going to fall apart.
So if you buy a Fiskars Pruning Stik, which chain link will you end up with?
Fiskars confirmed for me that this new linkage system is what’s currently being manufactured. There may still be some of the older models on the shelf at home improvement store or garden centers, but Fiskars confirmed that any old style linkages (using retaining clips) are covered under the Fiskars warrantee and will either be replaced with the new style chain link or the whole Pruning Stik will be replaced (at Fiskars’ discretion).
I have to give Fiskars’ customer service and product development folks a heck of a lot of credit for listening to my feedback and responding so quickly.
The new chain link design is already in production at the manufacturer. I experienced no problems. It worked flawlessly!
Blades and Replacement Parts
I found that the cutting blade was extremely sharp and stayed that way after hundreds of cuts in both live and dead wood. By the time I had finished my testing, the blade was as sharp as when it came out of the original packaging. Hard to believe, but true. Fiskars claims that they employ, “fully hardened, precision-ground steel blades [that] stay sharp, even through heavy use”. I can certainly attest to the fact that they do indeed stay sharp through heavy use.
Having said that, it’s still important to sharpen the blade from time to time to maintain blade sharpness. The duller the blade, the more risk for improper cuts. It also takes more physical strength to pull the handle or “Activation Ball” when blades are dull.
Be aware that if you do sharpen the blades, the blades are no longer covered under the warranty. If you’re unable to or uncertain about sharpening pruner blades, Fiskars offers a replacement blade kit for $12.99 plus shipping. If the cutting head is damaged, they also offer a complete replacement head assembly for $17.99 plus shipping. Both can be found on the Fiskars website.
Low Friction Coating Really Works
Fiskars also claims that the blades are coated with a “low friction” coating that helps prevent the blades from gumming up and sticking together between cuts. I couldn’t evaluate the coating itself but I was impressed as I cut my way through a lot of Brittle Bush. This shrub (native to the Southwest) exudes a really nasty, gummy, sticky sap after each pruning cut (sort of the consistency of wood glue). The Pruning Stik had no problem slicing through this material without binding.
This cool tool weights less than 2 lbs. I weighed mine to check and it weighed exactly 1 lb. 14 ¾ ounces. I found it very light and easy to work with. Its power to weight ratio was excellent. And when hauling this baby miles into the wilderness to prune hiking trails, weight really matters. I strapped it to my backpack and hardly knew it was there.
I have to admit, this is one of my favorite short stick-style pruners. It’s strong, nimble, lightweight, makes precision cuts and held up to most of the toughest pruning I could put it through. I really liked the locking pruning head; it stayed put and gave me a great deal of flexibility whether pruning above my head or at ground level. The blades stayed factory sharp, the cutting head spring stayed in place, the “Activation Ball” and center of the stick handle were perfectly placed and designed, and the range of motion of the cutting head was awesome. All in all a great tool.
Where to Buy
The Fiskars Pruning Stik can be purchased online through the Fiskars website, as well as in hardware store such as Home Depot and True Value. The retail price is $49.99 (shipping charges may apply). Or if you prefer, you can find it online on Amazon.
Now over to you – What’s the most effective stick-style pruning tool you’ve tried? Let us know in the comments below!
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Disclaimer – GPReview would like to thank Fiskars for giving us a free pruning stick to review. There was no expectation that it would be a positive review and we received no compensation for writing it. All opinions expressed here are those of the author based on personal experience using the product.
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How to repair a pruner: what you can do yourself
Choosing a pruner
Beginning gardeners are usually interested in how to choose a quality tool so that it is comfortable to work with and durable enough.
To do this, pay attention to the following points:
- Blades must be made of good quality high carbon steel.
- Knives should preferably be treated with a special anti-blocking compound.
- Please check the technical specifications of the product before purchasing, as the maximum cutting diameter may vary from tool to tool.
- Scissors should fit well in the hand and have comfortable handles with no sharp or scratchy protrusions.
- Try to squeeze the handles - the scissors should be pressed smoothly without any backlash.
- As a rule, the best secateurs are made by well-known manufacturers, although they are more expensive.
Here, perhaps, all the main points of choosing garden shears.
How often to sharpen garden tools
The frequency of sharpening garden tools is largely determined by the type of soil and the regularity of its use. On sandy soils, tools become dull quickly. Some tools sharpen themselves with frequent use. For example, with regular digging with a shovel, its edges are sharpened.
Incorrect use of tools leads to faster blunting. If you throw tools on the floor or concrete, crush stones with a hoe, then you will have to sharpen them more often.
How to sharpen garden tools
Sharpening garden tools can be done with a file, grinder or whetstone.
The hand file can be easily found in hardware and garden supply stores. To sharpen a hoe, pruner and shovel, you will need files of varying degrees of coarseness.
The grinder is not the best choice for the amateur gardener. Although she does her job quickly, it is more difficult to maintain. In addition, she "eats" a lot of metal. Therefore, it is better to opt for a file.
You can also use whetstones to sharpen inventory. These are porous stones, allowing you to get a very sharp edge. For a good result, the stone must first be put into oil.
Sharpening large blades
To sharpen a large blade, for example from a lawnmower, you will need a hand file and a vise.
- Remove the mower blade and secure it in a vise with the blade up.
- Sharpen oblique blades with a file at a specified angle, and sharpen straight blades at an angle of 30 degrees. When moving backward, press harder on the file.
- Turn the knife over and sharpen the other side. Try to sharpen both sides equally.
- Check the balance by hanging the knife on a nail. If one side outweighs, sharpen it further.
Sharpening small blades
Use small hand files to sharpen small pruner blades. You will also need lubricating oil and a vise.
- Secure the pruner handles in a vise.
- Blade that moves in the opposite direction, sharpen along the edge.
- Check sharpness by cutting through the green branch.
- Lubricate the pruner pivot and bolt with oil. Squeeze the handles several times.
Secrets of competent sharpening of garden tools
- Bayonet spades - have a straight blade. Annual sharpening is required to maintain the beveled edge on both sides.
- Shovels and shovels - straight, round or sharp edge. Oiled, stamped stock sharpens slightly on its own.
- Grass shears - blades must have a sharp edge to prevent sticking. If necessary, lightly grind them with a stone in the direction of the oblique edges.
- Chain saw - small blades should be sharp to avoid sticking. Sharpen it regularly with a file, and then lubricate it with oil.
- Hoe - sharp edge cuts weeds well and easily enters the ground. If you are going to use it for cutting weeds, sharpen obtusely, and for loosening, sharply.
- Secateurs - curved blades need frequent sharpening. Use a hand file.
- Branch saw - teeth should easily cut branches and branches. File the bevelled edges on both sides.
Sharpen all your garden tools before the start of the season. To do this, it is better to purchase a set of 3-5 hand files of different sizes. It is most convenient to use files with plastic and wooden handles.
Lubricate tools with moving parts with machine oil. This improves its mobility and protects against rust. At the end of the season, before storing the inventory, clean it of dirt and rust.
Pruner repair how to eliminate minor faults
Over time, the operation of the tool leads to various breakdowns. To return the device to service, it is necessary to carry out appropriate repairs. To begin with, let's find out what types of breakdowns occur with the devices in question:
- Latch malfunction
- Breakage of the spreader mechanism
- Misalignment of knives
All these malfunctions can be eliminated by yourself, so do not rush to dispose of the device. It is impossible to operate a faulty pruner, as it is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. Let's figure out in detail how to troubleshoot the secateurs:
- If the lock that secures the knives in the closed position is broken. Troubleshooting depends on the type of latch, as they are different. If the latch is located on the handle, as in the example below, then the malfunction can be eliminated by gluing the plastic latch using a thermal gun
- . It is recommended to fill the location of the latch with glue from a thermal gun so that the latch does not move independently when cutting branches and does not jam
- If there is no hole for fixing the wire, then it can be drilled with a drill or a bracket can be made in the form of a plate with a hole, which is attached to the handle with electrical tape
- In planar secateurs, there is such a type of breakage as a skew of the knives, as a result of which the quality of the cut is reduced. The operation of such a pruner is not only not convenient, but also contributes to the formation of a poor-quality cut. Troubleshooting by attempting to bend the anvil knife will make the situation worse, so the only way out of the situation is to grind with emery until the knives converge evenly
In addition to the above breakdowns, there is another type of malfunction - the formation of a chip or scuff on the sharp part of the knife.
To eliminate such a malfunction on the pruner is possible only by grinding the surface of the cutting part until the chip is eliminated. To do this, the cutting part of the tool is subjected to grinding on emery until the chip disappears.
This is interesting! We recommend using acetone or thinner to clean wood sap, chips and other debris.
Knowing as much information about secateurs as possible, it will not be difficult to buy a new good tool, repair it and sharpen it. After each end of pruning work, it is necessary to remove the remains of wood and sap, which will increase the service life of the tool several times. After all, it is the juice from trees when pruning branches that causes the formation of corrosion processes and other instrument defects.
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TOP of the best brands-manufacturers
secateurs is a brand. The tool differs from all similar ones in its complex design and often expensive material. In pursuit of profit, you can buy a "pig in a poke."
TOP brands-manufacturers of garden tools, including ratchet secateurs:
- Fiskars PowerGear (Finland) - professional. $40*.
- Fiskars PowerStep (Finland). $27.
- Gardena SmartCut (Germany) - professional. $35.
- Traum (Germany) - professional. $25.
- MR Logo (Mr. Logo). The brand is Russian, the assembly is Taiwanese. $15.
- Samurai (Japan). $15.
- Finland (Russia). $12.
- Centrotool (Russia) - professional. $10.
- Grinda - semi-professional (China). $10.
- Alligator (Russia). $5.
*Note. Prices are approximate and may vary from store to store.
Fiskars PowerStep P83 111670 is considered a professional model. Refers to the contact type. Allows you to work in three modes (separate for each diameter). Handles tough dry conditions well. Blade - high-quality steel + anti-friction coating. Handles are convenient not only for right-handers, but also for left-handers. Made from FiberComp, a durable yet lightweight material. In the place of the girth there is a SoftGrip coating - shock-absorbing and anti-slip. The only drawback is the limitation of the diameter of the cut branches to 24 mm.
Gardena SmartCut 08798-20.000.00 is also a professional tool. contact device. Handles - aluminum, durable, with soft rubber pads. There is a special lock of blades, which are distinguished by precision sharpening (as accurate and fast as possible). The cutting head is angled to allow cutting even in hard-to-reach places. The special coating of the blades prevents dust and debris from sticking to them. Limiting the diameter of cut branches to 25 mm.
The Finland 1611 centrifugal tool works like a jack. Refers to flat secateurs. It differs from other tools with a built-in oiler, which makes it easier to trim both wet and dry wood. The blades are made of Sk5 (Japanese-made high-carbon steel) coated with Teflon. Has a secure lock for secure storage. Limiting the diameter of cut branches to 24 mm.
Domestic model Taiwanese assembly MR. Logo 16740 is distinguished by its reasonable price and cut quality. A characteristic feature is compactness, which women will surely appreciate. The blades are made of Sk5 (high carbon steel) coated with Teflon. The handles are metal, the top has a rubber pad that performs an anti-slip function. Limiting the diameter of cut branches to 24 mm.
Titanium ratchet pruner Centrifuge 0233 Suitable for dry, fresh and hard wood up to 30 mm in diameter. Feedback on the operation is positive.
What can replace
A wide variety of tools in this segment will allow you to choose the right secateurs or similar garden tools.
Special brush cutters and loppers are available. Already by the name it is clear what they are intended for. The hedge trimmers have a longer handle than the regular garden pruner. With these devices, you can safely cut thick branches of gooseberries, raspberries, currants or ornamental bushes. It also has two options depending on the types of cut (single and double sided). Loppers lend themselves to branches at a height of 2 to 5 meters and a thickness of up to 50 mm. They have very long, meter, handles.
Pruning shears can also be used. They will be especially useful if you need to cut coniferous and deciduous hedge bushes, trim the grass or cut cuttings. It should be remembered that straight sharpening of the blades will help you in a more skillful cutting of your shrub.
Grafting knives are also available. They come in 3 different types - for grafting plants with an eye, a cutting and combined. They can make cuts in the bark without damaging the wood. Saw and chainsaw - will also be your friends if you need to deal with thick branches. And it will greatly facilitate your work in the garden - a garden shredder that allows you to utilize and recycle cuttings of branches and bushes.
And one more piece of advice - when cutting, it is important to leave the bark of the tree intact and not injure the branches, and for this you should use the tool from the side of the blade in relation to the part to be cut off. Where the trees are too dense, it is better to use a pruner with one cutting blade or a special garden saw
Overview of models
Trimming trees and bushes is a jeweler's job. The presence of an even cut and a minimum of unnecessary damage will ensure the health of plants. Accordingly, the result of such work depends on the quality of the tool. We offer to consider several models in order to understand how they differ, the pros and cons of each.
Raco Profi-plus 4206-53/185s
The German company Raco produces high quality garden tools. This model features forged steel blades that are strong and durable and replaceable. Reinforced coil-type spring helps to reduce the load on the hands during prolonged work. Includes blade adjuster and case.
Tool weight 440 g
Made in Germany. Comfortable for left-handers. Has interchangeable blades. The cutting angle is 30 degrees, which reduces the load on the joints of the hands and fingers. The working parts are made of cast aluminum alloy and coated with a special coating that protects them from sticking. They have a lock and a hand loop.
- Suitable for branches no thicker than 30 mm
- Handles with a two-component coating do not slip in the hand
Rather high cost
Produced by a Finnish company. Designed for cutting stems and branches up to 2. 6 cm. Its handles have a special shape and a special non-slip coating, making it very convenient to work with. The blades are replaceable, made of high quality, hardened steel.
Lightweight and compact. Its weight is only 140 g, and its length is 18 cm. Suitable for cutting branches up to 20 mm. Blades with anti-friction coating, so they are not afraid of corrosion. Safe in operation due to the presence of a fuse against accidental pressing. Suitable for left-handers.
Raco «Universal» 4206-53/150 c
The country of origin is Germany. Designed for trimming shoots up to 2 cm. The material of the blades is hardened steel coated with anti-corrosion coating. The high quality of the cut is achieved due to the precise sharpening of the blade, which is assisted by computer technology.
- accurately cuts stems not more than 22 mm
- convenient handle
- in the kit in the kit is a special brush
- Cutual mechanism allows you to do work without an application of additional efforts
for cutting branches with several presses with several presses it will take more time
Made in Russia. They cut branches and stems up to 2 cm in diameter. It has rubberized comfortable handles. The material of working parts is carbon steel with Teflon coating. The presence of a retainer.
- Suitable for live branches
- in effectiveness is not inferior to more expensive tools
- Weighs only 210 g
Palisad 60536 9000 9000 China. Suitable for stems up to 1.5 cm. Plastic-coated handles allow the tool to be securely fixed in the hand. The working parts are made of steel and have a Teflon coating. The spring is tape. There is a latch.
- Non-slip and convenient hands
- Light cut of small branches
- Anti-corrosion coating
There are many varieties of trees and shrubs that can be grafted with a special pruner. But the most common options are:0005
rowan, apple and pear;
various types of spruce, cedar, pine, cypress, arborvitae;
various types of citrus fruits and their combinations;
roses and wild rose. A special feature is the possibility of grafting a rose bought in a store;
bird cherry, cherry, plum in any combination thereof;
apricot, peach, plum, cherry plum;
wild or walnut;
pumpkin, watermelon, melon;
currants, gooseberries, grapes, viburnum, hawthorn;
maple, hibiscus, lilac or various ornamental and bush plants.
Pruner in the warm season never lies idle, is actively used, wears out and breaks quite quickly. The problem is how to fix it. Most often, the spring fails - it weakens or completely bursts from too frequent pressing. What to do in such cases?
Select a similar spring according to diameter and length.
Please note that only the most rigid is suitable for the ratchet. If it is weak and soft, it will not be able to start the mechanism.
Clean the "innards" of the secateurs (where the spring was)
Wipe with a disinfectant solution.
It is not necessary to disassemble the spring replacement tool! It is difficult to assemble it back, and this action is useless with such a breakdown.
Open handles as wide as possible.
In different models, the spring is inserted either into special grooves or put on small protrusions on both sides in the very depth of the central part of the mechanism on the handles. A screwdriver can help push the spring to the right place.
After both ends of the spring are in place, it is necessary to work with the handles. Amortized - repair completed.
If the failure is not related to the spring, but to the ratchet itself, it is better to use the services of a professional repair.
How to store pruners in winter
Some advise hanging tools on the wall, others suggest wrapping them in paper, but it doesn't matter in the end. The main thing is that there are no sudden temperature changes in the room with the tools, otherwise condensation will settle on the metal parts when it warms up, and rust is inevitable
Any pruner that has not been used for more than two weeks should be kept open so that the spring does not get used to being compressed. Removable springs after a long improper storage often begin to fall out, as they do not straighten out to the end and do not rest against the handles (this is how we usually lose them). Integrated springs, having lost elasticity, simply do not open the blade to the end. Open the pruner before storing or remove the spring if it is removable and your tools are ready for winter hibernation.
Thank you for your help in preparing the material: Konstantin Kazakov (gardena.ru), Damir Chumanov (pitomnik-shop.ru).
There really aren't many ways. Also, you can pull it on your own, while the belts can be fixed with hooks to the trawls, or to any other surface of the trailer. This method of fastening is used for light luggage, in the case when transportation is carried out on an open platform so that there is no loss of cargo along the way.
Most of the transported luggage is secured with tension straps. Basically, it is a ratchet type design with anti-unlock. Another name for this mechanism is a ratchet or ratchet. Chain or winch types of fixation have not been in demand for a long time.
PowerGear™ X Secateurs, Pruners and Pruners Warranties
The Fiskars PowerGear™ X series of cutting tools are manufactured using state-of-the-art manufacturing processes and materials. Our products are tested to be perfect for the function and application for which they are designed. Sometimes mistakes can happen even with the most conscientious approach to the production process. To give our customers the best possible experience with our quality products, we are offering a 25-year limited worldwide warranty against manufacturing defects on the updated Fiskars line of pruners, loppers and utility loppers.
This warranty is valid only in the European Union, Switzerland, Norway, Australia, New Zealand, Russia, Ukraine, Turkey, Belarus and Kazakhstan.
The warranty is limited to the following terms:
- The warranty is void if the product is not used for its intended purpose, or if the product is used for commercial or professional purposes, or in the course of employment.
- Warranty does not apply to products that have been repaired or attempted to be repaired by persons not authorized by Fiskars.
The warranty does not cover damage in the following cases:
- if the damage is the result of negligent handling or modification of the product;
- if the damage is caused by an accident;
- loss of product;
- if the retailer or Fiskars was not notified of the damage within a reasonable time;
- if the damage has been caused by misuse or mishandling of the product;
- if the damage is due to normal wear and tear during operation;
- if damage is caused by exposure to extreme temperatures, heat, flames, continuous heating above 40 °C or cooling below -30 °C;
- if the damage is caused by failure to properly care for the product, such as cleaning the product after use and storing it in a place protected from the weather and direct sunlight;
- if the damage is caused by the use of unsuitable cleaning methods or cleaning agents such as acids or solvents;
- if the damage is caused by the weather, such as rust or discoloration;
- if the product has been kept in an extremely aggressive or corrosive environment, such as a maritime or industrial environment, or in constant contact with water, chemicals, ash, cement, or dust.
Warranty claim must be sent in one of three ways:
1) Fill out the feedback form on the website www.fiskars.ru in the Support section https://www.fiskars.ru/Podderzhka/kontakty
2) Send an email to [email protected]
3) Fill out the feedback form on the Fiskars service center website https://fsk-market.ru/servisnyj-tsentr-fiskars
Submit a warranty claim possible during the warranty period or from the time the defect was discovered. The claim shall state the name, address and telephone number of the owner, the date of purchase, the nature of the defect and a photograph of the defect.
Fiskars accepts a warranty claim (if a quality check is required) and responds in writing to accept or reject a replacement.
If the complaint is approved, the product will be repaired or replaced with a similar product. In the event of a model being discontinued, the defective product will be replaced with the most similar model in the current product range.