How to replace rope on tree pruner


How to Retie the Rope on a Tree Pruner | Home Guides

By Laura Reynolds Updated August 18, 2022

There’s no mystery to pole pruners, as they use principles developed by Archimedes in the third century, B.C. They vary only in mechanical advantage – the equivalent in weight of the job compared to the amount of energy necessary to do the work – due to their pulley arrangements. The pulleys add to a two-to-one advantage provided by the lever in a lopper to compensate for the effort it takes to heft the pole up in the air to prune a tree branch. Restring your pruner as its rope begins to show wear to maintain a safe, efficient tool.

  1. 1.

    Remove the old rope from the pulleys and anchor. Clean and lubricate the pulleys and lopper blade and inspect them for signs of wear; replacement parts are available for most components of many poles.

  2. 2.

    Tie the end of a new rope to the anchor eye on the pole or grommet at the end of the moveable blade, depending on your pruner’s design. Use an anchor hitch or bowline to secure this end, advises Animated Knots.

  3. 3.

    Pass the other end of the rope up or down to the next pulley. If the anchor eye is on the pole, the first pulley is probably on the end of the lopper blade and the opposite is true when the rope anchors to the blade end. Pull the rope from the inside to the outside of the pulley, instructs Fiskars.

  4. 4.

    Pull the rope over the second pulley if one is present, and third if you have a model with a big mechanical advantage. Always thread the rope from the outside of one pulley to the inside of the next one.

  5. 5.

    Thread the rope through anchors on the pole that guide the rope down. If there are no anchors, screw an eye-bolt into the main pole to keep the rope from flapping loose.

  6. 6.

    Trim the rope a few feet shorter than the fully extended pole. If the pruner has a wooden or plastic chuck used as a grip, tie the rope through that, too.

  7. 7.

    Knot cotton or singe polyester rope ends to keep them from raveling.

    Things You Will Need
    • Replacement rope at least 5 feet longer than pole plus extension

    • Lubricating graphite

    • Paper towels or rags

    • Scissors or sharp knife

    • Eye bolts

    • Matches

    Tip

    Use a replacement rope that fits the groove in your pruner's pulleys exactly. Its diameter may shrink a bit as the rope stretches, but a larger or smaller rope may jump, catch, or jamb as it moves through the pulleys. Keep the blade sharp on the lopper, and the pruning saw if your pole is equipped with one. Power pruners use motor-driven chains rather than the simple machines in the manual pole pruner, but they are also more expensive, some costing hundreds of dollars; you can always rent one for a single big job on your property.

    Warning

    Never operate a pole pruner with a frayed rope or prune from directly under a branch.

References

  • Animated Knots: Anchor Hitch and Bowline
  • Fiskars: How to change the rope in the Fiskars tree pruner UPX86

Tips

  • Use a replacement rope that fits the groove in your pruner's pulleys exactly. Its diameter may shrink a bit as the rope stretches, but a larger or smaller rope may jump, catch, or jamb as it moves through the pulleys.
  • Keep the blade sharp on the lopper, and the pruning saw if your pole is equipped with one.
  • Power pruners use motor-driven chains rather than the simple machines in the manual pole pruner, but they are also more expensive, some costing hundreds of dollars; you can always rent one for a single big job on your property.

Warnings

  • Never operate a pole pruner with a frayed rope or prune from directly under a branch.

Writer Bio

An avid perennial gardener and old house owner, Laura Reynolds has had careers in teaching and juvenile justice. A retired municipal judgem Reynolds holds a degree in communications from Northern Illinois University. Her six children and stepchildren served as subjects of editorials during her tenure as a local newspaper editor.

How to Replace the Pull Rope on My Fiskars Limb Pole | Home Guides

By Laura Reynolds Updated January 04, 2022

Fiskars pole trimmers come in several models, but all allow safe tree pruning from 15 to 18 feet high from the ground. Trimmers feature adjustable or two-piece poles with a remote lopper on one end. Several pole trimmers have a pruning saw to handle larger branches. Fiskars sells replacement parts for all of the tool-ends of its pole trimmers and restringing the double-pulley pull rope is simple.

Tip

Cotton laundry line does just fine for restringing a limb pruning pole, or you can use a combination cotton-polyester designed for outdoor use. If you want to use a plastic rope, cauterize its ends with heat from a flame to keep it from unraveling. Take care to keep the flame far away from the rope to avoid setting it on fire.

How to Replace the Pull Rope on My Fiskars Limb Pole

  1. 1.

    Remove the old rope, taking particular note of how it loops over the two pulleys. Two pulleys give the blade the mechanical advantage it needs to cut branches up to 2 inches thick. Use a screwdriver or awl to push the rope through pulleys and untie knots, advises Fiskars Europe.

  2. 2.

    Thread one end of the rope through the top pulley from the outside in toward the cutting blade assembly.

  3. 3.

    Pull the rope through and into the slide around the bottom pulley, instructs Tree Hozz. This time, thread the rope around the pulley from the pole side toward the outside.

  4. 4.

    Continue upward with the end of the rope and run it through the clip on the end of the top pulley, again from outside through the clip, and in toward the cutting blade assembly.

  5. 5.

    Secure the rope to the clip using two half-hitches or any other knot that will hold together firmly. For a double half hitch, bring the loose end around the rope going into the clip from the bottom pulley, then through the loop. Then make a second loop around with the loose end, this time pulling the loose end between the first and second loops toward you – or in the opposite direction of the first. Pull the two loops tight by pulling the loose end and squeezing the two loops together.

  6. 6.

    Thread the other end of the rope through the eye-bolts or other guides on the poles that keep the rope secure as you work on trees.

  7. 7.

    Trim the rope with a utility knife, if needed, to just short of the extended or full length of the pole. Thread that end through the hole on the plastic pulling handle. Tie a simple knot to secure the rope on the handle.

    Things You Will Need
    • Utility knife

    • Screw driver or awl

    • Replacement rope

    Warning

    The cutting blade on a tree pruner is sharp. Keep your fingers out of the striking hook as you handle the pole head.

References

  • Fiskars Europe: How to Change the Rope in the Fiskars Tree Pruner UPX86
  • Tree Hozz: How Do You Replace the Rope on a Pole Pruner?

Tips

  • Cotton laundry line does just fine for restringing a limb pruning pole, or you can use a combination cotton-polyester designed for outdoor use. If you want to use a plastic rope, cauterize its ends with heat from a flame to keep it from unraveling. Take care to keep the flame far away from the rope to avoid setting it on fire.

Warnings

  • The cutting blade on a tree pruner is sharp. Keep your fingers out of the striking hook as you handle the pole head.

Writer Bio

An avid perennial gardener and old house owner, Laura Reynolds has had careers in teaching and juvenile justice. A retired municipal judgem Reynolds holds a degree in communications from Northern Illinois University. Her six children and stepchildren served as subjects of editorials during her tenure as a local newspaper editor.

History and secrets of the garden pruner

Sergey Kozhenevsky,
candidate of technical sciences,

Nursery shop

Pruning is one of the most important plant care activities. In order for the cuts to be of high quality, the wounds to heal quickly, and pruning does not cause any particular difficulties, it is necessary to have a set of serviceable, high-quality and properly selected garden tools, as well as be able to use them.

One of the oldest pruning tools in the garden is the garden knife.

Trimming with only one pruning knife requires real skill on the part of the gardener. Today, there are almost no such gardeners left. With the advent of modern tools specifically designed for pruning the garden, the work has become easier and more efficient.

Antique knife made at the beginning of the 20th century (from the author's collection) Modern knife for trimming and shortening branches

HOW

APPEARED
The first significant step in this direction was taken in 1815 in France - here a pruner was invented for trimming garden trees and shrubs.


Secateurs (French sécateur, from Latin seco - secý, cut) - garden shears for cutting shoots and thin branches of trees and shrubs when forming and thinning their crowns. It is also widely used in grape harvest and for vine pruning.

The author of the invention, the Marquis Bertrand de Moleville, a former minister of King Louis XVI, intended it for pruning vines. The cuts made by this pruner were clean and neat, and the scar healed quickly.


Thanks to the emergence of new technologies and materials, the original design of the secateurs has undergone multiple improvements. So, by lengthening the cutting plates and handles, we got garden shears, and thanks to the thickening and changing the configuration of the supporting blade, lengthening the handles, modern brush cutters and loppers. These tools have made it much easier for gardeners to trim thorny shrubs and treetops.


CUTTING TYPES
Depending on the purpose of pruning fruit, ornamental crops and grapes, there are several types of pruning:

1. Forming, in which the young plant is given the desired shape.


2. Supportive, consisting in pruning branches in order to maintain the created crown shape and maintain the correct ratio between branch growth and fruiting.


3. Anti-aging, which consists in pruning old branches to stimulate the growth of young shoots.


4. Restorative, with the help of which the shape of the crown is restored if the plant has not been formed or it has suffered (for example, frozen or broken) from adverse environmental conditions.


5. Sanitary, in which sick, dead, old, badly damaged, broken and thickening branches are cut out.


6. Thinning designed to remove unwanted fruits and grapes.


7. Trimming beautifully flowering shrubs and cutting flowers.


According to the execution time, winter pruning is distinguished - during the period of relative rest, and summer - during the growing season. During summer pruning, excess shoots are removed to stimulate growth and flowering in ornamental crops and thin out the crown in fruit crops.


CUTTING TECHNIQUE

To get a clean, even cut, you need to make a bevel cut in one strong and quick movement. And before that, the pruner blade is placed so that it firmly rests on the cut off part of the branch, which is held by hand.


Trimming basics:


1. The cut is made at an angle to the pruned branch above the bud or side branch.


2. The working blade should be facing the main branch (shoot). In this case, the anvil blade will deform only its cut off part, and the cut surface will remain clean and even.

3. The shoot closest to the cut will grow most strongly. By choosing the right growth buds to leave, you will form a crown as you wish.

Proper cutting technique with secateurs
for right hand for left-handers


OPERATING PRINCIPLE


All secateurs were originally designed on the principle of "sharp cutting". It is based on the fact that the working blade of the secateurs should cut the branch as well as a garden knife, leaving a clean and even cut, and thus ensuring rapid healing of wood cuts and the formation of an even scar. Therefore, all professional secateurs are designed to cause as little damage to the tree as possible, as well as to provide productive and durable work. In modern secateurs, two options for creating a cutting force are mainly used.

Pruner with parallel blades
The working blade (according to GOST 4153-93 cutting knife) of the secateurs slides along the support blade (according to GOST 4453-93 counter-cutting knife). For most secateurs of this type, the cutting working blade has a convex surface, and the counter-cutting plate, or stop, is concave. This design allows the pruner blades to better capture and hold the cut branch, firmly fixing it at the time of cutting. At the same time, in the place where the branch is held by the blades, the effect of drawing it into the gap between them occurs. Therefore, such secateurs are often called "bypass". This is the most common type of pruner used for all types of pruning in the garden.

Secateurs with anvil
The moving blade (guillotine) of the secateurs cuts the wood until it hits the anvil. The anvil is made of a softer metal so that the tip of the working blade does not deform when in contact with it. This type of pruner is used mainly for cleaning the garden from dead and drying branches (sanitary pruning), it is also suitable for cutting soft materials: rubber, plastic, ropes, etc.


The anvil pruner is preferably used for pruning hardwood plants. The working blade, like an ax, easily enters hardwood and pushes (splits) its fibers. The same can be said about pruning very resinous wood (conifers), because. there is absolutely no sticking effect.

It is not recommended to use such a pruner for pruning fruit trees - it deforms the bark of the branch, which leads to poor wound healing. In many anvil pruners, the working blade is lowered into the middle of a wide shear plate, which has a shallow recess in the place where the cutting edge is lowered. But there are secateurs in which the cutting blade is lowered closer to one of the edges of the anvil - this allows you to cut closer to the trunk of the tree.

All types of secateurs have the ability to adjust the force that tightens the blades. So that during long work in the garden there is no gap between the blades of the pruners, a special tightening nut is usually provided in the swivel joint of the pruners, connected to a device that fixes its position. The design of this nut, special sleeve and main connecting bolt is often patented by pruner manufacturers. A variety of pruner designs have the same principles of operation.

Each pruner has a special device (lock) that holds it in the closed position. It ensures the safety of transportation of the secateurs and its long-term storage.


To bring the secateurs into normal working (with fully open blades) state, a special spring is used.

DESIGN OF MODERN PROFESSIONAL SHEARS


Today, the design of professional secateurs has reached such perfection that it is very difficult for manufacturers to change something in it.

Secateurs requirements:


Blade
• The excellent cutting ability of the working blade is achieved through its geometry, designed in accordance with the principle of "sharp cutting", as well as sharpening on special machines.
• Long blade life is ensured by special heat treatment.
If the blade is hardened too much, it will be very brittle. If the hardening is insufficient, it will be fragile and will quickly become dull.
• The sharpening angles of the blades must be carried out at a strictly defined angle and be very sharp.
Only then will the cut be clean, without splitting the plant tissue, but of such thickness that the cutting edges do not become too brittle.


Anvil Blade
• In the manufacture of the base blade of the pruner, the strictest control of its geometry is maintained to exactly match the plane of the working blade.
• The anvil blade is curved and is usually provided with a special groove for draining plant juice to prevent contamination and sticking of the cutting planes.
• The curve of the anvil blade also serves to better grip and hold the branch during the cut, as well as to reduce the risk of the branch kicking back after it has been cut.


Bolt and nut
• Each manufacturer usually patents the retaining bolt and draw nut, as they perform the most important function - they hold the blades strictly parallel to each other. For the secateurs to work properly, the blades must be optimally adjusted.


Buffer (shock absorber)
• The buffer is needed to soften the kickback into the palm when closing the pruner blades.


Spring
• Prevents sticking of blades and helps to gently open and close pruners. Usually the spring is made of durable stainless spring steel and is designed for a long service life.


Lock mechanism
• It is intended for fixing of edges of a pruner in the closed state.


Handles and their coating
• Handles are made from a variety of durable materials such as steel, forged aluminium, fiberglass reinforced. The color for the handles is chosen bright so that the tool can be seen on the ground among the grass. The handles are covered with special materials that feel warm to the touch. It can be a coating of plastic, rubber, special paint.


PROFESSIONAL SHEARER ANATOMY


The Felco 8 secateurs are produced by the well-known Swiss company Felco, one of the world's leading manufacturers of professional secateurs and cable cutters. She has been leading her history since 1945, when she developed and patented the first professional secateurs. Its design has hardly changed to this day.


Felco 8 pruner features:
1. Notch on the blades for cutting thin wire, allowing you to cut the wire without using the thin edge of the blades.


2. The geometry of the cutting head, made in such a way that the working and supporting blades are geometrically not absolutely flat planes. They are given a slightly convex shape due to mechanical deformation and special sharpening. As a result, the blades converge perfectly at the point of cut. (If the blades are perfectly flat and parallel, then the pruner will "chew" the wood over time.)


3. Plant sap trough to cut succulent plants without the risk of sticking the blades. This saves time cleaning them and makes the trimming process easier.


4. Depreciation system. The stop (buffer) and shock absorber soften the kickback to the hand during the cutting process. Thus, the hand and wrist are protected from damage.


5. Forged aluminum handles (with a lifetime warranty) that make the pruner light, strong and rigid.


6. Micrometric adjustment of the tightening force. Felco's patented fine adjustment device ensures optimal cutting head adjustment throughout the life of the pruner. The task of the micrometric adjusting bolt is to provide an optimal tightening force between the working and anvil blades. The result is an excellent cut quality and smooth movement of the pruner handles.


7. The inclined cutting head makes the pruner easy to use and reduces the risk of muscle injury.

Jameson Ja Secretaries with adapter User Management

Founded in 1956
SecureTlies - Fiberglass saws - saw saw

9000 9000 9000

JA STRICTOR

Adapters allow you to quickly and easily replace 9000 SEMICATIONA0006

WARNING

HOLD THE PUNCH BY THE BASE, NOT THE BLADE OR HOOK

Attach the adapter
Remove the bolt from the pruner.
Insert the adapter by aligning the holes on the
Adapter with the bolt holes on the pruner.
Insert bolt and tighten.

Attach the rope

JA-14 fixed pulley pruner
JA-14S swivel pulley pruner
JA-34 Large Mouth Secateurs
Thread the end of the rope onto the pulley and tie it to the eyebolt on the adapter.

JA-14DP Double Pulley Secateurs
JA-34DP Double Pulley Large Neck Secateurs
Thread the Cable through the Upper Pulley, pass under the Lower Adapter Pulley and tie the end to the Upper Pulley.

Secateur care
Wipe clean after use to remove moisture and tree sap.
Lubricate to repel moisture and prevent rust.

PH Securers with an adapter
Adapters allow you to quickly and easily replace the sequator or saw

Warning

Hold the score for the base, non -blade or hook

Polya saws

Adapters allow you to quickly and easily replace the trace or easier

Attach the saw blade to the saw head.

Saw blade maintenance
Wipe clean after use to remove moisture and tree sap.
Lubricate to repel moisture and prevent rust.

Fiberglass Poles

Leaf Spring Ferrules

Connecting Posts or Attaching Tool Heads
Raise the leaf spring on the female pole tip to allow the tool head adapter to be inserted on the plug. Align the holes and lower the leaf spring button back into the hole for a secure connection.

For your safety and best results, Jameson recommends:
Use only Jameson tips with Jameson stands.
Always start with the Jameson support leg.
Connect the extension sleeve to the base post.
Connect the saw head or pruner to the extension pole.
For shorter lengths, use the support stand with a saw head or pruner only.

Double Lock™ 9 Telescoping Stands0288

WARNING

Pole must be locked in position before use

Fig 2

Scan to view
Video Double LockvC
http://www. youtube.com/watch5?v=

To adjust the post length:
Unscrew the threaded bushing by turning it until it stops. (Picture 1)
Unlock the inner lock by turning the top of the pole counterclockwise by about
a quarter turn while holding the bottom of the pole in place. (Fig. 2)
Extend the poles to the desired length.

To lock the position:
Turn the top of the pole clockwise about a quarter of a turn until the inner lock is engaged (click is heard).
Reattach the collar to the outer lock by turning it until it locks into place.

Secateurs and saws

Permanent attachment - without adapter

Warning

Keep the secateur for the base, non-blade or hook

Attach a rope
Japruners, constantly installed on the support
Take the end of the cable on the pulley and tie to the red-bolt on the adapter.

Attach saw blade
Pole saw heads permanently mounted on pole

Wing walnut
Lock washer

Replace lock washer and wing nut.

Care of pruners and saw blades
Wipe clean after use to remove moisture and tree sap.
Lubricate to repel moisture and prevent rust.

Warranty
Jameson products are warranted against any defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one year from the date of shipment, unless
failure is due to misuse or misapplication.
In no event shall Jameson be liable for modifications, alterations, misuse or repair of its products by the purchaser or others.
This warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of the product and does not include any refund of shipping charges or other costs incurred.
Jameson disclaims all other express or implied warranties.

TR_MO2

800.346.1956
WWW.


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