How to safely cut down a large tree
How to Cut Down a Tree Safely in 10 Steps
by Alison Hoover | Updated: | 0 Comments
So, you want to cut down a tree and Paul Bunyon isn’t available to help. If you’re comfortable with a chainsaw, some trees are easily taken down on your own. But others, are best left to the experts.
We’ve laid out how to fell a tree safely in 10 steps:
- Decide if it’s safe
- Gather equipment
- Estimate the fall
- Clear escape routes
- Plan the notch
- Cut the notch
- Insert wedges
- Make the felling cut
- Remove branches and cut firewood
- Get expert help
If this feels like too much, or you’d rather a pro do the job, feel free to skip to Step 10.
1. Decide if it’s Safe
If you’re reading this guide, you’re probably looking to cut down a tree a bit bigger than the struggling fruit tree you planted three years ago. This means you need to take safety precautions. Felling trees is a pretty big DIY job.
If the tree in question has a lot of broken or dead branches, or if your tree is diseased, you may want to skip to the final step in this guide.
All those branches will come down as you work, and they aren’t likely to pile themselves neatly into firewood.
Walk around the tree and your property and look for any obstructions, including power lines, buildings, electrical boxes, and heavy growth.
Estimate the fall area and determine where the tree will land. If any obstacle is in your way, you should skip to Step 10.
2. Gather Equipment
Proper safety gear is the first thing on your to-do list. Here’s what you need:
- A hard hat
- Safety glasses
- Hearing protection
- Work gloves
- A chainsaw
- Felling wedges
Depending on where you live, you might need a permit from your homeowners association or city, so check local laws and rules before picking up the chainsaw. And for safety, enlist a trusted friend. Two sets of eyes are always better than one. Plus, you need someone to yell, “TIMBER!”
3. Estimate the Fall
It can be difficult to measure the exact height of the tree and determine where it may fall. Assess the tree for uneven growth, whether due to disease, overcrowding, or any other factor. If the tree is heavier on one side than another, it will fall that way regardless of your attempts to redirect it.
For a better estimate, hold an ax at arm’s length, and close one eye. Walk away from the tree as necessary until the top and bottom of the tree are aligned with the top and bottom of your ax. Where you stand is roughly where the top of the tree will fall.
4. Clear Escape Routes
Take the extra time to make sure you have a safe way to retreat from the worksite. It’s best to have two alternate routes and ensure they’re clear from debris. If something goes wrong, you want a direct path to safety.
5. Plan the Notch
The notch is what will allow the tree to fall properly, so you want it on the “fall side” so the tree will fall in the direction of the notch. The fall side should be the heaviest side of the tree.
Cut at a comfortable working height. If it feels like the stump will be too big, remember you can cut down the base of the tree later.
How to cut down a tree with a chainsaw / Amada44 / CC BY-SA
6. Cut the Notch
Start with the top cut, moving at about a 45-degree angle downward. Cut about 1/3 of the way into the trunk. Below that, make a second cut parallel to the ground. This horizontal cut should come pretty close to meeting the first cut.
7. Insert Wedges
Depending on the tree you’re looking to take down, wedges may be necessary. If the tree’s diameter is more than 18 inches, wedges will help prevent your saw from getting pinched. You can purchase these at any home supply store.
Once the notch is cut, begin the felling cut (Step 8). As soon as you’ve cut enough to insert wedges, stop cutting and pound in the wedges; then complete the cut.
8. Make the Felling Cut
Cutting down a tree / Joint Base Charleston
This is what will actually make the tree fall. Move to the opposite side of the tree, away from the notch. About an inch or more above the notch, begin an even back cut. You want to create a hinge, so you will not cut all the way through. As the tree starts to move, stop the cut and take one of the paths to safety.
9. Remove Branches and Cut into Firewood
Once the tree is down, the next step is called “limbing”. What this means: You remove the branches from the tree trunk. Then, cut the tree into 16-inch sections; this is called “bucking”. To avoid touching the ground with your saw, cut about three-quarters of the way through, roll the trunk, and complete the cut.
Then you can cut those sections into logs and bust out the marshmallows for a bonfire. But, remember, there are specific rules about transporting firewood.
10. Get Expert Tree-Cutting Help
A tree that needs pruning or removal is often reason enough to call in an arborist. If you can’t ensure safety, if you don’t have the proper equipment, or if you don’t feel confident in your skillset, hire a licensed and insured tree removal company.
Then round up the kids to watch them work – just make sure they keep their distance.
Main Image Credit: You’ll need an ax (or a saw or chainsaw) to bring down a tree / Pixnio
Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.
Posts by Alison Hoover
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How to Cut Down a Tree Safely
Make it fall where you want it! Check out these expert tree felling techniques.
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Wear the Right Safety Gear
Safety isn't a throwaway word when it comes to felling trees and running chain saws. You must take it seriously. There are a few absolutely essential safety gear items you need to wear for any chain saw work, and especially when felling a tree: - A logger's helmet to protect you from falling branches, a major cause of logging injuries. - Earmuffs and a face screen to protect your ears and eyes. - Safety glasses to keep the dust out. - Kevlar chaps, which will stop a chain instantly should you happen to drop the bar against your leg.
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Buy Felling Wedges
Two plastic felling wedges will prevent your saw from getting pinched during a cut. You can find these at any outdoor power equipment store that carries chain saws.
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Estimate the Felling Zone: How to fell a tree in the direction you want
Trees are taller than you think and reach farther on the ground than you'd expect. When you're planning on felling a tree, you can estimate where a tree will fall by using the “ax handle trick.” This is how to fell a tree in the direction you want: hold an ax handle at arm's length, close one eye, and back away from or move toward the tree until the top of the ax is even with the treetop and the bottom is even with the base. Your feet should be about where the treetop will rest after falling. It's just an estimate, though, so allow extra room if there's something the tree might fall on!
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Clear a Cutting Zone
Even when you're sure which way the tree is going to fall, you're still not ready to fell it. Cut away any brush around the trunk and clear two escape routes on the “non-falling” side of the tree. They should be about 45 degrees away from each other in opposite directions. The last thing you want is to trip while walking away from a falling tree.
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Size Up the Tree
Start by studying the tree. Don't cut it down if you see:
- Dead branches that are broken but attached, or that are actually broken off and supported by other branches. You're bound to knock a branch loose and have it fall on you.
- It is obviously leaning in one direction or heavily loaded with branches on one side. It will fall in the direction of the lean or load despite your best efforts.
- There are buildings, fences, power lines or other things you care about in the felling zone. If so, skip the felling and call a pro.
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Anatomy of a Proper Notch
When felling a tree, the rule of thumb is to make the depth of the notch one-fifth of the tree trunk's diameter. The goal is to make the angles as shown in the diagram (or as close as you can). The felling cut should meet the point of the notch. When the tree starts to fall, the hinge will help guide the tree to fall in the desired direction.
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Plan the Notch
You're going to be cutting a notch on the "fall" side of the trunk. Sight along the handle and adjust the saw until it's pointing toward your fall direction. The spot where the bar touches the bark will be the center of the notch. Before cutting, lay out the notch by marking with chalk or by scoring the bark with the chain saw. Make the notch at a comfortable working height. (You can always shorten the stump later.)
8 / 13
Cut the Notch
Make the top cut first and then the bottom. When you're making the bottom cut, adjust your hand to control the throttle with your thumb. If you meet the top notch perfectly, the wedge will drop out of the notch. But most likely you'll have to extend the cuts from either the top or the bottom so the wedge can drop free.
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Use Wedges on Big Trees
If you're felling a tree that's more than 18 in. in diameter, go ahead and make your notch cut and begin the felling cut. Stop cutting as soon as you've penetrated far enough to pound wedges behind the bar. Leave the bar in the cut with the saw running, but lock the chain brake and tap in the wedges. Then finish the cut. Wedges will keep the saw from getting pinched in the cut if the tree leans back.
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Make the Felling Cut
Score a line connecting the apex of the notch on both sides for a cutting guide. The back cut should be parallel and even with the apex of the notch. Then make the felling cut. The instant the tree begins leaning, pull the saw free, set the chain brake and walk away along one of your escape routes, keeping an eye on the tree so you can react if it doesn't fall the way you planned. Never take your eye off a falling tree.
11 / 13
A Lookout Might Save Your Life
When felling a tree, you'll be a lot safer if you have a trusted assistant standing a few feet behind you watching the top of the tree for falling branches and letting you know when the tree starts to fall. Have your assistant tap you on the shoulder with a stick to alert you when it's time to vacate the area. If it's early in the cut and you get the tap, leave the saw and walk away immediately. That means a branch is falling. Near the end of the cut, a tap means the tree is beginning its descent.
12 / 13
Start Cutting Branches at the Trunk
After felling the tree, cut off branches starting at the lower end of the trunk and working to the top. Whenever possible, stand on the uphill side of the tree. Work from the left side of the trunk (as you face toward the top of the tree). This allows the safest and most efficient use of the chain saw because you can rest the side or bottom of the saw on the trunk and slice off the branches with a pivoting motion.
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Saw the Trunk into Firewood
Cut a log into 16-in. lengths for firewood by first sawing three-quarters of the way through the log. Then roll it over and complete the cuts.
Learn how to cut firewood multiple ways so you can use whichever tools you have available.
Originally Published: May 29, 2019
How to cut down a tall tree on the site: rules for removing large trees
Tree removal services: felling, felling and pruning
Place an order: 8 (985) 768-64-02 We will answer the phone from 10:00 to 20:00
Tall trees in our area are not a unique phenomenon: under favorable conditions, many species of central Russia grow to heights of 30, 40 or more meters. Increased attention to them is associated with the danger that they can pose to people and buildings in the event of their fall. Especially if the tree is emergency.
Why do they fall?
The first , which is also the main cause of the fall of trees, including tall ones, is a poor, weakened condition associated with diseases and any other damage to the trunk or root system. A healthy plant is able to withstand serious loads like heavy winds, for example.
The second reason is a large windage. Large and tall trees grow in conditions of fierce competition with each other for a place under the Sun. They quickly stretch upwards, and therefore their trunks are usually straight, without branches in the lower and middle parts. The crown, on the other hand, is formed closer to the top and becomes the very “sail” that “catches” the wind, provoking the fall of the trunk.
Accurate cutting of large trees requires a lot of time and patience.
Photo: Kaleria Lapshina
Scotch pine, widely distributed from China to the British Isles, is a good example of great windage. On the territory of the European part of Russia, it can be found everywhere. How can one not recall the paintings of I. I. Shishkin, especially his famous “Ship Grove”, which depicts tall, slender mast pines, with cone-shaped crowns crowning the very tops!
Another reason for the fall can be the root system. Norway spruce, typical of the northern regions of Europe, has a superficial root system that does not securely hold the plant in the ground. Along with a trunk height of several tens of meters, this leads to poor wind resistance.
They decided to cut down the tall pine tree near the glass fence, just in case.
Photo: Kaleria Lapshina
What tree is considered tall?
Most of the territory of the Russian Federation is forests: coniferous, deciduous, mixed. They are formed by plants of different species. According to the existing classification, all woody plants in our country, including central Russia, are divided into 9 groups according to height. The first 4 groups are a variety of shrubs: low, high - from 1 to 5 meters.
Here, for example, include: lilac, sea buckthorn, viburnum, mountain ash and other similar plants known to all of us. Following them (in ascending order) are some types of maple, pine, apple, birch, acacia - these are already trees, but they are considered low and medium in height - from 6 to 20 meters. The remaining three groups are high and very high.
Thus, are considered high if they outgrow the mark of 20 meters . In the Central European part these include:
- some types of poplars (pyramidal, white, black),
- Norway spruce,
- Norway and Ash maples,
- English oak,
- common ash,
- gray alder,
- warty birch,
- silver and heart-leaved lindens (small-leaved),
- Scotch pine and some others.
For different breeds, height is a relative concept. For example, an apple tree that does not reach the mark of 20 m can be considered high, but only among apple trees. In this article, we are interested in really tall trees, since the difficulties that arise when working with them are associated precisely with the large absolute height of the trunk.
In the city, it is convenient and practical to cut plants from an aerial platform.
Photo: Kaleriya Lapshina
Where and in what cases does it need to be removed?
In itself, such a tree is not a problem. But if it is emergency, it can cause great damage when it falls. A fallen tree easily tears the wires and knocks down the poles on which they are stretched, rams the roofs and destroys the walls of buildings, breaks vehicles and blocks the roadway. Not to mention the threat to human health and life! Therefore, in the city, such plants must be removed if they grow:
- near overhead power lines,
- next to residential buildings,
- car parks, etc.
Large and dry trees can often be seen in summer cottages. Sometimes they hang over the house, risking falling at the slightest breath of wind. In addition, dry trees are fire hazardous. Standing tall plants, not necessarily dry, can also pose a threat.
How to cut down a tall tree?
If it is necessary to cut down a tall tree, the trunk of which is strong enough to support an adult person - in our case, an arborist equipped with a chainsaw and other necessary equipment - the method of felling the tree in parts is used. The specialist climbs the trunk, first removes all the branches and the top, and then cuts the trunk into separate logs, which he either throws down or gently lowers on a rope. Depending on customer requirements.
The pine tree in Obninsk turned out to be too tall for machinery. I had to call an arborist.
Photo: Kaleria Lapshina
It is difficult to work in holiday villages, where the territory of household plots is limited, as a rule, to six acres. Because only six acres can be located, in addition to a residential building, “a million more necessary and valuable” things. This includes flowerbeds, garden beds, and lawns with gazebos...
Therefore, the problem arises - how to cut down a tall tree on the site without damaging the owner's property, evenly distributed over the entire area? Under these conditions, all parts of a large tree: branches, fragments of the trunk - carefully descend after being removed on a rope. They are picked up below, thereby keeping the site safe and sound.
Thin tall trees
These cases need to be told separately. The work of removing them is often complicated by the inability of the arborist to climb them: the trunk can bend or, in general, break under the weight of a person. Therefore, an aerial platform is often used to fell such plants. If it is not possible to use it: the terrain does not allow, there are no entrances to the object, the neighboring growth is used. An additional rope is hung on them - a safety rope. In addition to all this, thin trees are sometimes felled entirely, under the root.
The thicker the tree trunk, the longer it takes to saw it.
Photo: Kaleriya Lapshina
Difficulties and dangers
The dangers of removing tall trees are primarily related to their height. Falling from them can result in serious injury or death. Therefore, when working with large trees, the specialist first assesses their condition: healthy or emergency.
The threat (accident) is often hidden from view. The tree may be sick, but the disease is seemingly asymptomatic, as it happens in humans. Only a specialist is able to accurately determine the condition of the plant and take into account all the risks. The life and health of a tree climber depends on the correct diagnosis.
Such a tree is also dangerous because the wind load on it is greater than on low ones. Even in good calm weather, the wind blows at high altitude. It swings the top like a pendulum, complicating the feller's work.
When cutting down a tall tree, all the actions of an arborist, even the simplest ones, are multiplied by the height - this is the main danger when working on such objects!
How do we do it?
Nuances of tree removal in the Moscow region
Remember - the work of an arborist is very dangerous, it requires skills, knowledge and experience.
We specialize in tree removal. We take on any orders: we can solve the problem if the branches are located directly above the house and need to be carefully cut, we can safely cut rotten trunks, remove trees that have fallen on buildings.
Thoughts are material!
Naturally, it all started with agreements and preliminary planning.
During the day, three teams at four sites cut down thirteen trees and cut dry branches from several pines!
Broken top of a tree
Can lead to sad consequences. When falling, be sure to hit the most valuable item in your area.
An arborist is a professional who has the technical skills, gained through experience and appropriate training, including climbing, to oversee the treatment of trees and other woody plants in residential, commercial, and public landscapes.
Call for more information:
8 (985) 768-64-02
- logging residue removal.
8 ways to cut down a tree. 🌳 Correct cut technology. ✅ Blog SpilKursk.PRO
8 ways to cut professional arborists
Author: Korovin Maxim Comments: 0 Reading time: 7 minutes
There are situations in life when the head of an organization, the owner of a plot, a tenant or just a tenant of an apartment building needs to understand how to cut down a tree correctly. There can be many situations of need. It is important to remove the tree in accordance with the law and regulations so that people and the site where it is located do not suffer.
Are you from ?
Professional arborists from the SpilKursk.PRO company will help you safely cut down a tree!
Sawing with hand tools
- Chainsaw operation
- Cutting the trunk and branches
- Stump removal
Professional tree removal
- Free felling saw cut
- Using the natural slope of the trunk
- Guided cut with guy
- Free throw swath
- Cut in parts with curtain
- Complete removal
- Sawing when the tree is fully hung
- Use of vehicles
Sawing with hand tools
The technology of manual removal of trees seems to be the simplest and cheapest, especially on your site. Let's see, is that right?
Working with a two-handed saw or an ax today is the "last century", which can only be used without health risks on shrubs or thin trees. Therefore, such "technologies" are not discussed.
You can not work with a traumatic angle grinder or a hacksaw for metal, designed for other things.
Almost any owner of equipment is sure that he knows how to cut down a tree with a chainsaw. In fact, this work is dangerous and requires a clear alignment of actions.
Tool : the chainsaw must be fully prepared before operation - sufficient level of gasoline, oil, chain integrity and tension checked (when the chain is pulled from the top of the bar - it is necessary that the guide teeth do not come out of the groove), switching on and off without jamming.
Tree : determine the fall area of the felled tree, clear the area in that direction, cut all knots up to shoulder height. The fall zone of the object is planned 2 times more than its crowns.
If you are going to fell a tree for the first time and it is not possible to determine the fall zone by eye, you can hold a carpenter's ax or any object 60-70 centimeters long (the standard length of a carpenter's ax handle) at arm's length, move towards the tree until the ax and tree become "of the same height". In the place where you stopped and there will be a point of contact with the top of the earth tree.
- Oblique cut of wood from the side of fall from top to bottom at an angle of 60 o , to the base. Sawed to a depth of up to a quarter of the diameter of the trunk.
- Notching horizontal or at an angle of 30 o - made from the bottom on the same side, until it connects to the top, until a wedge is obtained. The cut angle should be 45 o . Full tree cut prohibited!
- felling cut. Clearly on the opposite side of the future fall trajectory. It is carried out parallel to the second cut, but with a distance of 5-10 cm above it and leaving 10% of the diameter uncut. Not finished between the main cut and the saw cut is the guide chip. It is left at the corner of the broken tree. If left incorrectly, part of the barrel bounces back violently and can pierce a person's chest.
A 3-step cut is the basic foundation for any tree cut.
Possible options for cutting from the side of the fall: the first is a horizontal notch, then the second goes to the connection to the first from above at an angle of 45 degrees. All the time it is important to work smoothly, without jerks, but at maximum engine speed. When the final cut is nearing completion, a wooden wedge is inserted and hammered into it so as not to jam the chain guide. You can use a pole, pre-installed cables, and even a jack to guide the barrel.
At the final stages, it is especially important to follow the direction of movement of the trunk in order to cut the tree with a chainsaw in the right direction, if necessary, correct or run back. As soon as there is a crack trunk, you need to urgently remove the saw, turn it off and move as far as possible. It is important to calculate in advance so that a fallen tree does not get stuck in the branches of neighboring trees or power lines. There should be enough space left on the ground so that you can come up for sawing branches and cutting the trunk.
Peculiarities of sawing sloping trees
A tree whose slope from the vertical does not exceed 10 o is considered upright and is sawn in the usual way. If felling is to be carried out on the opposite side of the slope, it is important to consider the following:
- After the main cut, it is important to level the tree in the right direction, while coping with the resistance of the guide chip. You can align with cables or make one edge of this chip wider.
- To block the reverse movement, a winch or chain hoist can be used.
- If the slope of the trunk is more than 10 o , it is better to choose a different way of sawing, without the need for leveling.
For old, rotten trees, it is better to leave the guide chips thicker so that they do not burst at the most unexpected moment. If this happens, the trajectory of the tree's fall cannot be predicted. If possible choice in space, it is better that the cut tree falls on the side where it has more branches and branches.
Safety and retreat areas for fellers are located on the sides of the fall path at approximately 45 o . It is impossible to remain in the place opposite to the fall. If a person makes a mistake in the thickness wood chips - the trunk will sharply go back and cripple.
If you need to cut a small tree, there will be no particular problems. But if the tree is of a decent age or rotten, big troubles can arise. A person may not accurately calculate the direction of the fall, make a mistake with the depth of the undercut or even jam the saw in the cut. At the most unexpected moment, the appearance of wind or a change in its direction is possible. All this is fraught at best with a broken tool, a branch flying over the head or shavings in the eye, and at worst - a broken roof of a structure that has turned up under the trunk and even broken ribs or a neck.
Cutting the trunk and branches
Branches are cut down starting from the bottom of the lying tree. Each branch, first from the bottom, then finished it from above. In large branches, a large part is first cut off, then the remainder is finished.
If you don't have enough experience, then it's better not to start dismantling large trees alone. It is very difficult to calculate the forces, and you will get tired very quickly, which will increase the risk of error.
Maxim Korovin Arborist. Head of the company SpilKursk.PRO
The cutting of the trunk begins with a cut to half in depth. Without taking out the saw, a wedge is hammered with an ax. This is a guarantee that the equipment will not be squeezed between parts of the tree. Then comes the doping.
Only a person with serious experience can use a chainsaw for sawing in a stump. There is a high probability of a strong rebound of the saw!
|Stump type||Working technology|
|Small||Use a shovel under the root in a circle like a lever. If a tearing sound is heard - well, the process has begun.|
|Medium||Dig a hole 2-3 times wider than the trunk. Hard roots must be cut or cut off with an ax from both sides. You can use a chainsaw, but first thoroughly clean the roots from the ground in the place of the saw.|
|Large||Can be used as a crowbar lever. If it is possible to install - use a lever hoist or a 3-4 ton winch, if there is a strong support for its attachment.|
|Any||Use a wood chipper, which will turn the stump into shavings with disc blades.|
If it was not possible to overcome the stump, you don’t want to make special efforts to cut down, and time is not in a hurry - you can use the “old-fashioned” method, which works great:
- Use a drill with a long drill bit to drill many vertical holes in the stump, 15-20 cm deep.
- Pour one of the agents into each: carbide, potassium or ammonium nitrate. The first remedy works best. For a stump diameter of 60-75 cm, 1 kg of carbide is enough.
- Pour the agent with water, strictly without splashing.
- Seal the openings securely to prevent rain from getting in. You can use chops, but it's easier to wrap the stump with construction polyethylene and tie it with twine. In order not to fly away the edges - press them down with stones or sprinkle with soil.
- A year and a half mixture will "dissolve" the stump.
- Remove the polyethylene, spread the "bonfire" on the stump and move away. A very active burning of wood will begin. Such a fire goes inside up to 2 m and burns even thick roots.
See also: 8 ways to remove stumps.
At first glance, the simple removal of a tree is fraught with many surprises and additional physical work. You need a sober assessment of the risks and time spent on this for a person who has never felled trees. serious work can be done quickly and safely only by specialists with constantly updated experience.
Industrial tree removal
It is really dangerous to cut down a tall, thick and sprawling tree by yourself. It is no less unpredictable to work with an old and rotten giant, who can “treat” not only a healthy branch on the forehead, but also fall down entirely in any direction. Therefore, we are not talking about self-cutting here at all. Unless, of course, a person does not want to risk his life.
Are you from ?
Professional arborists from the SpilKursk.PRO company will help you safely cut down a tree!
For hazardous work, there are professionals who do it every day, have vast experience and will not hurt anyone. But even they work with climbing equipment, usually with an assistant, and stop any actions in case of sharp gusts of wind or its speed is more than 11 m / s. For each object, the most appropriate method of cutting is selected, taking into account safety.
Free felling saw cut
The object is cut down immediately. Beforehand, it is important to calculate the direction of the wind and its strength, the distribution of branches from the center of gravity, the presence of cracks or large holes. From the side of the fall, traditional 45 degrees, on the opposite - felling cut. The method is used when there are no power lines, houses and other obstacles to the felling nearby. After falling, the tree is sawn into pieces for disposal. The easiest and cheapest way, but for professionals.
Free felling option - sawing to the railing. It is suitable if there are at least 2 trees in the direction of the intended fall, comparable in diameter and size to the saw cut object. Between them at a level close to horizontal ropes (“railing”) are pulled on the ground, which slow down the tree when it falls. A problem is possible - a tree that accelerates “in flight” tears the ropes. Experts calculate the distance to the tree, its mass, the length of the fall, the strength of the ropes, the feasibility of using a quickdraw from behind to slow down the fall, and other possible nuances.
Climbing rope "standard" with a diameter of 10-11 mm in a new condition withstands a breaking load of 2-3 tons. Over time, it wears off and becomes much weaker.
Use of natural stem slope
The method is suitable for even trees with an average height of up to 4 meters, a trunk diameter near the ground up to several tens of centimeters, an inclination angle of 2-3 degrees - so that there is no chance of falling in the other direction.
Scheme of work:
- Sawing all branches up to the height of growth - before undercutting. It is important that in case of an accidental course of the trunk with a deviation of the branch, they do not interfere with bouncing to the side.
- Produce classic cuts from the side of the fall at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Remove sawn wedge.
- Carry out a standard felling cut, leaving approximately 10% of the diameter of the cut out.
- Ropes are fixed at the top with special “big shot” slingshots, a line thrower or a stick with a hook.
- With ropes, a pole and wedges, they fell the trunk.
Recommended felling cut for strong trees - up to 50%, for sick and rotten trees - from 20 to 40% of the diameter. In the worst condition of the tree, the cut is made less so that the tree does not break before.
The height of the cut from the ground, depending on the further purpose of the stump:
- 70-100 cm, it can be a little higher - if the stump is uprooted, for the convenience of working with a winch.
- 30-50 cm - with further destruction of the stump with chemicals.
- Minimum possible - when the stump will be destroyed by a crusher.
If the tree is not clearly displaced, or the center of the displacement is difficult to determine, specialists control the fall with wedges.
Guided cutting with guy
The method of destruction is suitable for a tree that can be completely felled into a selected area using a rope attached close to the top of the tree. To secure it, the rope with the load is thrown as high as possible onto wood. This is usually done with the help of a huge slingshot, which shoots loads with a thin braided line.
See also: How to legally cut down a tree.
Suitable for tall and mature trees with heavy branches or a large number of them, even a slight slope in the opposite direction. This creates difficulty in determining the direction of "leaving" at the time of saw cut. You can work with most trees, there would be opportunities for installing quickdraws and strong ropes.
Scheme of work:
- The crown is tied with a pole or an equipped climber, depending on the height of the tree.
- The rope is pulled tight by hand, winch or chain hoist (with rope backstop). First of all - side stretches.
- Make standard counter cuts.
- Felling cut is carried out.
- A tree falls into a precisely defined region of space.
See what it looks like felling a tree with a quickdraw:
A good choice of action for a tree in the park, forest and even on the site. Professional companies attract high-level specialists who calculate the level of tension, eliminate the risk of splitting the trunk and fall with unpredictable consequences.
Free throw swath
A method to cut down a tree in pieces and drop them down. It is chosen when a tall and thick tree cannot be felled freely, but there is free space under it for dumping sawn-off fragments.
- The arborist climbs the tree on gaffs (“claws” worn on the feet with which the climber digs into the tree) and a girth, “along the way” cutting down all large parts of the branches to the very top, if conditions allow. Also he can "hang up" and lower.
- Before cutting down the top of the tree, the climber ties a rope to its top and throws it off to a partner.
- He pulls the rope in the direction of fall with the force of his hands or a chain hoist.
- The climber cuts off the top and finally throws it off.
- When going down, all the remains of branches and the trunk itself are cut down.
- When the arborist reaches a height of 2-2.5 m, the workers clear the free space below the trunk for him.
- The specialist descends and cuts the remains of the trunk into plates of the desired length.
On a tree, a specialist works with two belays. Having worked one tier, he fixes the second insurance to a higher level. Only after that removes the mount from the lower tier. During the descent, the trunk is processed and cut an average of 2 m per tier. The stump is left no more than a third of the diameter high, if you work according to the standards of the Kursk region.
Hydraulic lift possible. Actions are performed in the same sequence, with mandatory insurance. If a sufficiently large and heavy tree is cut down, the ground below can be severely broken.
Cut in parts with curtain
The method is suitable when they do not know how to properly cut down a tree hanging over a fence, wires or a roof. When sawing, part of the branches that threaten important objects or buildings will be carefully lowered on the ropes. The rest of the cut will be thrown down in small fragments. A qualified assistant can lay down a shock-absorbing “pillow” on the ground from the branches, and then the falling parts of the trunk will not hit the ground / lawn so much. If space the bottom cannot be damaged - the tree will be removed with the descent not only of the branches, but also parts of the trunk on a rope.
The felling technology is the same as the free throw felling method. Next is the descent:
- A rope is pulled between the thickest branches, and a block is fixed to it.
- A tree specialist secures part of the branches or trunk with a rope.
- Cuts them down.
- At his command, assistants on the ground begin to smoothly lead the rope down, lowering the felled fragment.
This is the way to deal with all dangerous parts of the tree. As a result, the safety zone under the tree is reduced, since the fragments do not "blow up" the ground, but land in a precisely specified place. If the saw cut of a tree comes with aerial platforms, everything is done in the same way, including the fastening of the block.
It is desirable that at least two specialists work together. This reduces the operating time and makes it safer.
Expensive, but the safest way for the owner, balance holder or tenant of the site to delete the object. The best option is to cut down a large tree in a limited space where there are buildings, people and animals may suddenly suffer.
- A climber on a gaff climbs a tree, cutting branches and lowering them on a rope.
- Attaches a carabiner with a rope for future hanging of sawn parts.
- An assistant fixes the same construction on a neighboring tree, but below.
- An arborist is tying a rope to a piece of wood to be cut.
- Leads the rope through the upper carabiner to the lower carabiner, where it is fixed.
- Cuts down the selected part of the tree, and it hangs on the rope.
- An assistant brings the felled part to the ground through the lower structure.
When two to 5 (for a large specimen) meters remain to the ground, the technology of work changes. A potential threat arises - the “pendulum” from the lowered part of the tree can damage the building, wires or residues the trunk on which the person is fixed. When the tree is rotten and split, the climber can fall from a sufficiently high height and with all the tools. Therefore, in order to avoid troubles and accidents, the remains are cut down along small particles and lowered manually or folded gently from above.
Hanging cut is not recommended in winter when the wood becomes brittle.
Sawing when the tree is fully hung
The method is especially suitable for emergency specimens that have fallen on buildings or adjacent plantings. Reminiscent of cutting with a guy, but requires a minimum of free space. Be sure to have a strong wood.
- The climber reaches the top of the tree being cut down and ties the rope so that it is about a fifth of the height above it, provided that the tree is not in danger. A rope is installed on the emergency trunk remotely - with the help of "big shot" slingshots, line thrower or pneumatic gun. The principle of operation of the most common slingshot is simple: a cord with a weight is thrown through the base branch, under the influence of which it falls down.
- Throws a rope over a "helping" tree and descends.
- The rope is stretched and fixed.
- The removed trunk is cut down and the old tree hangs on a nearby tree by a rope.
- The sawing of a hung tree starts from the bottom, with a shortening of 1-1.5 meters. The action continues until the top and bottom are balanced, to prevent the leaf cover from flipping down.
- The rest of the stem is placed on the ground.
The method is time consuming, suitable for a situation where it is not possible to lay down the whole specimen to be cut.
Use of vehicles
When an arborist cannot climb a tree, it is better to use the services of specialists who have additional automotive equipment: a tower or a crane.
This work is estimated to be cheaper, since it is easier and faster to work from a tower. But the “approach” of technology is not possible everywhere. More often, professional arborists with ropes are required, of which there are few.