How to secure a tree from wind

How to Stake a Tree the Right Way (So It'll Never Fall Over)


Many new trees do just fine on their own. In fact, the movement they experience from normal wind and weather helps these yard young’uns develop strong root systems and solid trunk girth. But new trees in open areas often require staking early in their lives. “This prevents leaning while the tree is being established,” says Gary Schermerhorn, arborist and a district manager for Davey Trees in King of Prussia, Pa.

Though new trees in protected areas might not need help, there are several scenarios in which it’s beneficial—even necessary—to stake a tree during its first growing season. For example, a new tree planted on a slope or exposed to very strong winds usually requires some temporary stabilization.

Trees must be staked properly or tree staking can backfire and damage a tree. This guide will help your new tree become a truly upstanding citizen!

What You Need to Know Before Staking a Tree

Once you plant or transplant a tree and know it likely needs staking, the next step comes in learning how to brace a tree to help, but not hurt, it. Once it’s staked properly, your tree only needs help for so long, so know when it’s ready to hold its own.

When Does a Tree Require Staking?


Most new trees planted in the open benefit from help to get started. The usual culprit is wind, which can bend the tree and affect its upright growth. In some cases, strong wind might blow a young tree right out of the ground or break its main trunk. New trees establishing roots in sandy soil are more likely to need staking.

Bare-root trees typically need staking as their root balls grow, and a new tree that does not stand up well on its own or begins to lean after planting needs proper staking. Top-heavy trees with a dense crown of leaves, tall trees with small root balls, and those exposed to foot traffic (near a sidewalk, for example) often need staking.


Some trees are more susceptible to wind damage, and a few tree types almost always need staking; these include eucalyptus trees, acacias, and mesquite hybrids, among others. When in doubt, stake a new tree, but only properly and for no more than a year.

How Long Should a Tree be Staked?

It usually takes a full growing season for a tree to grow sturdy roots. So, if you plant and stake a tree in spring, remove the stake in fall, and vice versa. The tree needs a little time to stand on its own instead of becoming dependent on the tree stakes and ties. Some movement from wind helps the tree develop a strong structure.

So, avoid staking a tree and forgetting about it. “If any material is used to wrap around the trunk of a tree, it should be removed after one year,” says Schermerhorn. Wires, in particular, can girdle and damage a trunk. Staking a tree too long actually can lead to poor trunk growth and a smaller diameter.


How To Stake a Tree Using Tree Stakes and Staking Straps

Tree stakes and straps can support a young or leaning tree, and you can find good quality tree support straps or make your own. Just be sure to take the time to do it right when you stake a tree.

Tools & Materials
  • Tree stakes (2)
  • Sledgehammer
  • Tree staking straps (2)

STEP 1: Get the goods.

You’ll need two tree stakes at least, and up to four stakes, plus tree-staking straps to tie them to the trunk. To DIY your own stakes, taper the points of 6- to 8-foot long, 2×2 pieces of lumber. Or you can purchase stakes, made of treated wooden posts, and nylon or rubber ties online, from big box home improvement stores, or from local nurseries.


Many DIYers use a rope or wire covered with a piece of rubber hose for a flexible and soft wrap on tree trunks. But the best bet is tree support straps, which are designed specifically for staking trees. “Broad, strong strapping, such as ArborTie, works fine,” says Schermerhorn. Avoid using wire or ropes that can rub and cut into the trunk. Larger trees might need ground anchors, steel cable, and lag hooks, Schermerhorn adds.

STEP 2: Drive the tree stakes.

Place each stake on opposite sides of the tree, about 15 to 18 inches away from the trunk, ensuring they will clear the root ball. Drive each stake into the ground with a sledgehammer, about 18 inches deep, but with enough height above the ground level to where you will tie the tree support straps.

STEP 3: Pick the right spot.

In general, to anchor small trees exposed to high winds or on slopes, place the straps about 18 inches above the ground. In the case of a tree with a flimsy trunk that can’t support itself, place the straps about 6 inches above the spot where the tree can stand upright.

STEP 4: Support the trunk.

Tie the tree to each stake with flat tree-staking straps, so that they are taut but not so tight that the tree cannot move. You want to let the tree sway a bit in the wind, which encourages strong root development.

Flat straps provide a large surface area to distribute pressure and avoid damage to the trunk. Be especially cautious if using homemade wire-in-hose straps: Stretch them too tight and they’ll injure the sensitive tissues just under the bark, essential for taking up water and nutrients.

STEP 5: Untie in a timely manner.

Remember, you should only stake a young tree for one growing season, until the root system has had a chance to spread out and set in. After removing the straps, you can leave the stakes in the ground as protection from foot traffic and lawn equipment if they don’t pose a hazard.


If you choose to remove the stakes, dig gently around the base of each one to loosen it, being careful not to disturb the roots. Keep your straps and stakes if they are still in good condition to be used for the next tree you plant that requires staking.

With good care and a little luck, your new trees should bring joy to your family and beauty to your property for generations.


Tips for Staking Trees in Windy Areas

Wind actually helps trees, but sometimes too much of a good thing requires supporting a young or leaning tree.

  • When staking the tree, support it, but don’t pull the ties too tightly. The tree needs some flexibility and movement to grow strong.
  • It is best to use at least two stakes. In high-wind areas, place them perpendicular to the prevailing wind.
  • Place the ties or straps around the tree trunk so they are no higher than ⅔ of the tree’s height.
  • Large evergreen trees have higher wind resistance, and the support is designed to prevent tipping over in strong winds.

FAQ About How to Stake a Tree

Should I stake a leaning tree?

Causes of leaning trees vary, and might affect whether staking will help. Staking a young tree after planting can help prevent leaning caused by wind. Weather events can damage trees. A tree also might lean because the root ball shifted in the ground, which might involve some underground intervention. Try to determine when your tree started leaning and whether it is exposed to wind, then stake properly and temporarily.

How do you stake tall, skinny trees?

The trick to helping stabilize a tree that is top heavy or very tall and thin is to protect the trunk while helping to keep the root ball steady underground. Use of three stakes gives the skinny tree the most support, as long as each strap or guide wire is not too tight or too loose and that you properly protect the trunk from rubbing or girdling. Wrap them around the tree about 6 inches above the spot where the tree can stand upright.


How do you stake a tree for wind?

Remember that some sway or movement gives the new tree a workout. Avoid tightening the straps or wires so tight that the tree can’t budge. A strong wind might cause the trunk to snap where the guides attach. Make sure the ties are flexible but tight enough to keep the tree from blowing over completely. Place the stakes perpendicular to the prevailing wind.

Can you straighten a bent tree trunk?

You can gently straighten the trunk of a tree that leans so badly that it affects the tree’s growth. If possible, use guy wires and wooden or metal stakes to brace the tree, driving stakes deep enough to hold, but making sure they are tall enough to wrap the ties or guides a little more than halfway up the trunk. Have a helper push the trunk upright carefully before tightening the straps. Leave the stakes in place for a year before checking to see if the tree is standing tall.


How to Stake a Tree During High Wind | Home Guides

By Danielle Smyth Updated May 31, 2022

According to, all trees tend to break at wind speeds of 94 miles per hour regardless of their height, diameter or elasticity. They can undoubtedly get damaged at lower wind speeds too, so if this is a concern, you’ll need to know how to stake a tree from wind damage or worse. Young trees can also benefit from staking even if high winds aren’t a genuine concern.

How to Stake a Tree From Wind Damage

Bob Vila explains that most new trees planted out in the open will benefit from staking for support and straightening. It can also help bare-root trees and top-heavy trees with dense crowns or those that are close to foot traffic. You’ll also want to do this for trees like acacia (Acacia, USDA plant hardiness zones 8-11) and eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus, zones 8-11), which are more vulnerable to wind damage.

To stake a tree, you'll want to get some tree staking straps and use two to four stakes. You can make stakes by tapering the ends of 2x2 pieces of lumber; use ones that are 6 to 8 feet long and taper the ends so that they’re pointed enough to go into the soil. You can also use wire or rope covered with a rubber hose instead of straps, but the latter is better because it doesn’t damage tree trunks. You might need additional tree staking materials, like lag hooks, steel cable and ground anchors for larger trees. You can buy tree staking kits at Lowe's, on Amazon and from other retailers.

Next Steps in Staking a Tree

Put stakes on opposite sides of your tree, approximately 15 to 18 inches away from its trunk; they must clear the root ball. Pound them into the dirt with a sledgehammer about 18 inches down with enough height above ground to attach the supports. If it’s a small tree on a slope or if it will be exposed to high wind, the straps should be 18 inches above the ground, but if the trunk is weak, you'll want to lower the straps down to 6 inches above where the tree stays upright. Now, you can tie your tree to the stakes with the straps, making them taught but not too tight. The tree needs to be able to move slightly, as this is best for root development.

Flat straps are best since they cover more expansive areas that effectively distribute pressure. If you tie them too tight, it’ll affect the tree tissue’s ability to absorb nutrients and water. Trees usually take about a year to develop solid roots, so if you're staking a tree to grow straight, remove the stakes six months after planting to give the tree time to “stand up on its own” during this critical time; otherwise, it will become too dependent on the supports. This method is the best way how to stake a tree to grow straight.

Staking Larger Trees

You don’t usually see large trees with stakes, but they sometimes need temporary support systems, as explained by Purdue University Extension. The “guying” method employs the use of a wire attached to an anchor that gets slipped through hose material and then wrapped around the tree. Use smooth, flexible and wide materials for this, like soft webbing weave. If the trunk is narrow enough, you can fit tree anchors around them; these resemble metal augers and are sturdy rings attached to stakes.

According to some experts, if a tree less than 15 feet tall gets blown over in high winds, you may be able to save it. You’d first need to shovel out beneath the root ball to provide space for it to fall back into. You should prune off broken roots, and a strap with thick padding underneath it can be attached. Once the tree is upright, you can then stake it.

Things You Will Need


  • Science. org: Trees, Regardless of Size, All Break at the Same Wind Speed. Here's Why.
  • Bob Vila: How To: Stake a Tree
  • Purdue University Extension: Tree Support Systems


  • You can use wire or string in place of polyethylene tubing, but you must feed it through sections of cut garden hose and position the hose on the tree bark to avoid cutting into the trunk.

Writer Bio

Danielle Smyth is a writer and content marketer from upstate New York. She holds a Master of Science in Publishing from Pace University. She owns her own content marketing agency, <a href="">Wordsmyth Creative Content Marketing</a>, and she enjoys writing home and DIY articles and blogs for clients in a variety of related industries. She also runs her own lifestyle blog, <a href="">Sweet Frivolity</a>.

How to protect the site from the wind

  1. . Man-made ways to protect sites
  2. .Vegetable barriers
  3. .Protective structures for trees

Winds - the scourge of summer cottages located on a hill. It does not matter from which side of the world they blow, the main thing is the damage done to the plantings. These are dried and cracked soil, broken seedlings and mature plants, cold walls of a country house, etc. It turns out that you can restore and maintain order only if you know how to protect the site from the wind and take all possible measures.

Man-made ways to protect sites

Gardeners-amateurs and professionals often build windbreaks or simple fences to enclose the site. There are a lot of materials for the manufacture of such structures, however, when choosing, the following nuances should be taken into account:

• carved fences or, erected from a chain-link mesh, easily let air masses through, but retain strong wind well;
• structures made of bricks, profiled sheets, perfectly prevent even strong air currents, but it is better to make it not deaf, but leave gaps so that the area is well ventilated.

Another option for man-made protection is sheds, greenhouses, and other architectural structures. If you are unable to close the site with the listed buildings, study the wind rose and find out what winds prevail in your area and fence off some areas.

For example, build a gazebo or patio that will not only be a great windbreak, but also a great decoration, will be a favorite place for gatherings with children or friends in nature.

Vegetation barriers

One of the most proven methods is windproof landings. Such barriers work both as an independent fence, and in combination with a patterned fence. Green spaces do not interfere with air ventilation, while significantly reducing the force of the wind, plus they look relevant and rich.

The choice of options for windbreak hedges is extensive. Nurseries offer:

• bushy plants - viburnum, mock orange, hawthorn, wild rose;
• fruit trees - cherry, apple, pear;
• decorative deciduous - beech, maple, oak, chestnut, birch, mountain ash;
• coniferous - arborvitae, fir, spruce.

For those whose plot is located near the highway or on a hill, it is worthwhile to advise to build a multi-tiered fence, which includes:

• high conifers or larch trees in the first tier;
• second - fruit trees;
• third - shrub berries or ornamental plants.

Of course, everything depends only on the imagination of the owner himself, but the idea is quite real, and with one effort you will realize several ideas at once:

1. Protect the area from the wind;
2. Plant a fruit and berry garden, and free up more space in the country for a garden or decorative buildings;
3. Thanks to beautiful decorative trees, you will make the design of your dacha unique.

Pay attention to the fact that coniferous plants, especially young seedlings, in winter can suffer from the same strong wind and bright sun that burns on frosty days. So that in the spring you do not have to replant new plants, removing yellowed and dried ones, use a simple tip - in the fall, treat adult specimens and young growth with Purshat-M. This tool is specially designed to protect conifers in an unfavorable period of time.

After spraying the drug on the surface of the needles and branches, a water-indelible film remains, which perfectly passes air, protects against the negative effects of UV rays. As a result, water consumption is significantly reduced, and the likelihood of mold and pests is prevented.

It is important to remember that three-tier barriers are suitable only for large areas, they will take up too much space on small ones.

Tree guards

More often than others, in areas where strong winds are walking, various damage to young trees and shrubs is observed: breaks, cracking, in some cases even uprooting. If you have not been able to build barriers in all of the above ways, create fences directly for the trees themselves. There are many options for such structures, but the following is considered the most reliable of them:

• Place poles 2 to 3 meters high around the perimeter of a tree or a group of young growth. The distance between them must be at least 2 meters.
• On the leeward side, stake each tree.
• Cover the perimeter with mesh or other materials, taking into account that air can penetrate well into the structure.
• As the plants grow, the structure is removed.

An interesting variant of site closure is wind screens. If you need to protect a gazebo, pool, planting of ornamental and fruit plants from strong winds, you can use protective screens as a screen. They are made of polycarbonate, wood, plexiglass. Structures can be deaf or pass air masses.

How to protect your land from the wind

Strong winds have been a problem for summer residents whose plots are located in elevated or open areas year after year. Deformed seedlings, dried soil, broken flowers or even trees, a cold, cold house, fruits that fell prematurely - all these are the results of the "pampering" of the winds. It turns out that maintaining order and creating favorable conditions for plants is not so easy without windscreens.

Year after year, summer residents are worried about problems associated with strong winds

There are several ways to fence off your garden . They vary in design, complexity, duration, and cost, but when properly executed, they provide reliable protection from the wind. Today, most summer residents use either artificial or plant windproof structures.

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Wind protection structures are various artificial fences. The most effective man-made protection is medium or high fence (from 1.5 to 2 m). Of what material to build it, of course, the owner decides. However, it is worth considering that:

  • An openwork fence or chain-link mesh allows the wind to pass through, but its pressure is significantly reduced.
  • A fence made of brick, wood or solid metal sheets restrains wind currents, but it should not be continuous, but still with small gaps.

The most effective man-made protection is a medium or high fence. This is not entirely true. If polycarbonate blocks are mounted in the fence, then any plants will have enough light. An example of such a combined fence can be found in the article Beautiful garden without extra expenses: how to save on materials.

Structures along the perimeter of the site

These are sheds, greenhouses, walls, etc. The area of ​​the protected territory and the effectiveness of this protection depend on the size and configuration of the buildings. With their correct location, adjusted to the landscape features of the site, you can get a completely reliable option for wind protection.

If it is not possible to protect the entire area in this way, then you can try to protect at least some areas. For example, during evening gatherings at the barbecue in an open place, the wind haunts. What to do?

Patio. Photo from

Build a patio or gazebo. It will not take up much space, but it will become a quiet and windless island.

For greater effect, you can plant a mini-garden around with wind-resistant plants, including climbing plants that create a hedge (willow, mountain ash, viburnum, chokeberry, shadberry, bamboo, parthenocissus, clematis, actinidia, thuja, lilac and many others) .

Wind screens

Special screens are used as a shield if you want to protect a certain area from the wind (playground, pool, patio, reception area, etc.) and it is impossible to do it in any other way. Screen models can be found different:

  • in one piece or breathable;
  • in wood, Plexiglas or polycarbonate.

Particularly popular are wooden (their design is best suited for summer cottages) or polycarbonate (they are easy to maintain and install).

Before installing the wind screen, you need to carefully study the direction of the wind , since it is installed for a long time (such structures are immobile) and, most importantly, perpendicular or almost perpendicular to the most powerful stream.

  • Secondly, the financial costs for quality work (if you can do it yourself, then this item will “go away”) and for quality materials will be rather big. After all, an ordinary fence and a fence that is designed to protect from the wind are two different things. For the latter, you will need a stronger foundation, reliable fastening systems and special materials.

  • Herbal protection

    It usually "works" in combination with a light, almost transparent hedge. The green screen does not interfere with the natural ventilation of the site, while significantly reducing the wind and looks very noble. For example, if a hedge is planted in one row, then the flow strength is reduced by about 40%. You need to take into account not only the number of rows, but also plant height and crown density . Tall plants with a dense crown are best protected. The optimal height of which is 3 m. The most correct decision is to plant several types of coniferous and deciduous plants.

    The green screen does not interfere with the natural ventilation of the area, while significantly reducing the wind and looks very noble

    Which plants to choose for a windproof hedge

    Bird cherry, lilac, hawthorn, shadberry, elderberry, cotoneaster, hazel , viburnum, mock orange, vesicles, wild rose, spirea, fruit trees, coniferous (spruce, arborvitae, fir), deciduous (beech, maple, hornbeam, birch, mountain ash, willow) and "powerful" long-lived trees (oak, horse chestnut) .

    Those who have a plot near the road can be advised to plant a three-tiered fence that protects not only from wind, but also from dust:

    1. The first row is tall or medium-sized coniferous or deciduous trees. This will be the most unpretentious fast-growing row that does not require careful maintenance and constant haircuts. Spruces, pines, larches, birches, birches, willows, etc. will do. Be careful with chestnuts and oaks. They grow slowly, so the result will have to wait.
    2. Second row - fruit trees or low ornamental trees. Colored varietal maples look interesting in combination with other trees.
    3. And finally, the third row - shrubs. It all depends on the imagination of the owner. Some even replace shrubs with corn and sunflowers.

    Plant wind protection. Photo from the site

    Important: Three-tier composition is only suitable for large areas. It will not look small on small ones, it will only absorb space. In such areas, it is better to equip plant protection from fruit trees and lush shrubs with decorative pergolas.

    Another thing to keep in mind: hedges block the light of fruit crops, take away some of their moisture and nutrients, and can also cause the reproduction of harmful microorganisms. Therefore, the location of landings depends on a combination of all factors. Then the hedge will effectively protect the site, and the planting will not wither.

    Special wind protection for seedlings

    Most often, seedlings suffer from wind - you can't argue with that. If it was not possible to plant a hedge or create an artificial one, then you can protect the seedlings with the help of a special one created specifically for them:

    1. Poles 2-2.5 m high and at least 10 cm in diameter are driven in along the perimeter of the territory allotted for "young growth". The optimal distance between the posts is from 2 to 3.5 m.
    2. greater strength.
    3. As you might have guessed, a chain-link mesh is stretched between the posts.

    The structure can be removed as needed.

    In general, site protection methods are selected and combined individually, taking into account the landscape

    In general, site protection methods are selected and combined individually, taking into account the landscape.

    Learn more