How to set up a tree swing
How to properly hang a tree swing
Photos courtesy of Raj Chaudhry
Tree swings are funny things. They don’t travel far, but they can carry us way back to simpler times. Even when we’re not the riders, swings take us back to our childhoods. And we want our children to know that such simple joys exist. But for them to be carefree, we need to worry a little for them, to let them experience the small scrapes while protecting them from the big ones. A tree swing is a joy, but it requires care and thought as much as it needs rope and a strong limb. Here’s what I know about hanging one.
Pick the right tree
The right tree for a swing is a straight, strong, mature, and healthy hardwood. Some species are better than others. Good prospects include beech, oak, and maple. Others, like black willow, poplar and birch, are relatively weak and brittle.Photo 1: Mature hardwoods with open crowns have the sort of thick horizontal limbs needed for a two-rope swing. It’s far easier to find a suitable limb for a single-rope disc swing.
A healthy tree will have no signs of rot or fungus; no cracks, hollows, or wood boring insects. It will have green, unspotted, and properly shaped leaves; a balanced, even distribution of limbs; and a minimum of dead or broken branches. Thump the tree with something solid and listen for the hollow sound of decay.
While you’re evaluating, check overhead for any broken limbs hung up in the branches, called widowmakers by loggers, or any other threats from above over any portion of the play area. These will have to be removed to make the site safe.
Choose the right limb
The perfect limb for a tree swing depends, in part, on the type of swing you’re hanging. For a traditional two-rope swing, it’s important that the limb be horizontal. For a single-rope disc swing, the limb need not be level. Look for a limb at least 8” in diameter.
The limb must be healthy. As with the tree as a whole, symptoms of compromise might include cracks or holes, fungus, missing bark, dead or broken branches or limb tips, and sick or missing leaves. Pay particular attention to the union of the limb and trunk for cracks or signs of weak attachment, including crowding by other limbs. Even after the swing is hung, keep an eye on the tree and limb for changes in their health.Photo 2: Despite the green foliage, this old maple limb is a disaster waiting to happen. Compromised limbs might have missing bark, dead or broken branches or limb tips, cracks or holes, fungus, sick or missing leaves, and staining. This limb exhibits several of the warning signs. Best to move on to a healthier tree, well away from this one.
Higher is better, within reason. A limb 20 feet up will create a swing with a longer arc and a better rhythm than a limb only 10 feet off the ground. Of course, this objective needs to be tempered by the imperative to work safely, with confidence, and within your own abilities. Something in between will work just fine. Hiring a tree specialist is always an option.
If a limb looks good from the ground, then inspect it up close and from above.
Consider the landing zone
The landing zone for a tree swing should be clear of hazards and relatively soft. Natural surfaces usually provide sufficient cushion. But rocks, stumps, and exposed roots could pose risks. Intruding branches should be trimmed, and the landing area cleared, both behind and well ahead of the swing’s maximum travel.Photo 3: Rocks and exposed roots, like this, create the sorts of trip hazards and hard landing spots you want to avoid or address when selecting a swing site.
Sloping ground can present its own problems. As grade drops away, the potential fall height from the swing also increases. So does the chance the rider will stumble on dismount or tumble after a fall. Level is safer.
In general, you want to hang the swing as close as possible to the trunk without creating a collision hazard with the tree. The limb is a long lever. The further from the trunk you place the swing, the greater the stress you place on the limb union. Typically, you will want the swing 3 feet to 5 feet from the trunk. A two-rope swing is a large pendulum, with a regular path, which means it can be hung nearer the tree, at the lower end of the range. A single-rope swing has more freedom of movement, which means you will need more distance from the trunk.
Select the right type of rope
Safe swings require strong rope. Many types are suitable, but a few stand out. Here’s how the four most common rope varieties stack up:
Polyester. From a performance standpoint, polyester is probably the all-around best rope for a tree swing. It is one of the strongest, at more than twice the strength of natural manila. It stretches very little, has excellent natural UV and weather resistance, is supple, and holds knots well. It is commonly available in white or black, but if you look, you can find it from boat rope suppliers in manila tan.Photo 4: The basics for clean cuts in rope: a utility knife with fresh blade, electrical tape and a surface you don’t mind scratching. Tape the rope and cut in the middle.
Manila. Natural manila rope works for a tree swing but has some significant downsides. Manila is soft in the hand, holds knots extremely well, stretches little, has a great traditional look, is reasonably priced and, being made from plant fibre, is biodegradable. But it is only moderately strong, a third less than polypropylene and less than half as strong as polyester. And cycles of wetting and drying will cause it to shrink some.
Moreover, because it is a natural product, it is not unusual to have some variability in diameter from rope to rope. You may find a 1” manila rope may not fit in a 1” hole. (Ask me how I know.) But easily its biggest liability is the rate at which it decays. If you use it, understand that it will degrade and lose strength fairly quickly when exposed to sunlight and weather. You will need to inspect and replace it regularly, perhaps at the beginning of each swinging season. A smaller inconvenience has to do with fraying. All ropes need some sort of intervention to prevent the ends from unravelling. But whereas the ends of synthetic rope are easily fused with heat, natural rope generally requires string wrappings, called whipping. As a traditional craft, whippings are fun to learn and practice, and they look great, but they also take work.Photo 5: Natural rope generally requires a string whipping to keep the ends from fraying. This style is called palm and needle. It’s attractive, doesn’t add much in the way of girth, and is less prone to slipping than surface whipping.
Polypropylene. The most common general purpose rope — found in waterski tow ropes and the like — polypropylene is inexpensive and stronger than natural manila. If you purchased a tree swing, odds are this is the rope it came with. It is not as strong as polyester or nylon, but plenty strong for a tree swing. It is a little stiffer than other synthetics, which means it is harder to knot well and less pleasing in the hand. Unlike polyester, it is not naturally resistant to ultraviolet radiation; therefore it requires additives during manufacture to boost its UV resistance. If you use a polypropylene rope, make sure it is the UV resistant type. On the plus side, it’s easy to find polypropylene rope with the look of manila.
Nylon. The strongest common rope, nylon has many of the attributes that make polyester a great material for a tree swing, with one notable exception: It is very stretchy. This means, for one thing, the empty swing will need to hang higher, which may make it harder to board safely. It also is slightly less UV resistant than polyester, and loses some strength when wet. For me, the elasticity is the deal breaker.Photo 6: One good method for whipping synthetic rope involves melting the end with a small butane torch or lighter, which fuses the fibres.
Choose the right rope size
Usually, swing ropes will range from 5/8” to just over 1”. For a two-rope swing, 5/8” synthetic ropes might be plenty. If using natural rope, which is weaker, you may find 3/4” more suitable. Likewise, for a single-rope swing, you may want a 3/4” synthetic rope or a 1” manila rope. For me, 3/4” twisted polyester, which has a safe working load north of 1,000 pounds, is the ideal all-around swing rope.
Strength is not the only factor in choosing a rope diameter. Thicker ropes provide a better grip and are usually more comfortable than thin ropes. For the same reason, twisted ropes usually work better for rope swings than braided ropes. And unlike braided ropes, twisted ropes can be spliced, if you have the skills, which is a great way to make strong eyes and loops. Owing in part to the simplicity of manufacture, twisted ropes are less expensive.
Attach the swing in a way that protects the tree and rider
When it comes to hanging your swing, you have several options. Here’s what you don’t want to do: Tie a swing rope tightly around a limb. Tree limbs need room to grow. A tight rope around the limb will eventually strangle it. In the meantime, abrasion opens the tree to disease and infestation.
If you hire an arborist to hang your tree swing, odds are they will use eye bolts through the limb. Although this sounds destructive, the tree will heal around the bolts. There are simpler methods, but this one certainly avoids the issues of direct rope attachment.
Here’s how the eye bolt method works:
For each rope you are hanging, you’ll need one galvanized or stainless steel shouldered eye bolt, 5/8” in diameter or larger, one matching dock or fender washer, and two nuts. The bolts need to be long enough to protrude through the top of the limb and accommodate one thick washer and both nuts. To install, you bore a hole for a one-rope swing, or holes, properly spaced for your two-rope swing, through the limb. Then slide a bolt into place from underneath. Add a washer on top, and tighten a nut against it. Tighten the second nut on top of the first. This locks the nuts together and prevents them from working loose. Repeat as necessary. As an alternative, you can use a single nut on each bolt, with a liquid thread locker to keep it in place.
A properly rated locking carabiner, or lifting rated quick link, is added to each eye. And the swing rope attaches to the carabiner. The right way to do this is to splice an eye in the end of the rope and add a stainless steel or galvanized rope eye to prevent wear to the rope. If you have the means and the skills, no commitment issues, and want a truly lasting installation, the bolt method might be for you.
On the other end of the spectrum, some people tie the swing rope directly to the limb, but employ a loop made with a secure slip knot like a running bowline. Under load, the loop chokes up, but when the swing is empty, the loop relaxes. Because the loop can open freely, it will never girdle the branch. It’s the right idea, with a few potential flaws. One is that the rope is still relatively thin, which means the load and friction are concentrated. Over time, it might still cut into the bark and damage the delicate tissue underneath. Likewise, while the rope is abrading the tree, the tree is returning the favour. It will be hard to tell from the ground how fast the rope is wearing. As time passes, you may need to get up in the tree to inspect it. You can improve this system by using a short split length of hose around the rope where it passes over the limb. Despite some drawbacks, the slip-knot method is simple and economical.Photo 7: One swing-hanging system that protects tree and rider relies on a round lifting sling, hung in a choker configuration, with one eye through the other. The swing rope attaches to the sling with a figure 8 follow through knot, which has a backup knot tight against it. The soft, wide sling won’t cut into the limb, and the loop is free to open as the limb grows.
The third method is fairly simple and the one I favour. It uses straps looped around the limb, which are wide enough to keep from cutting into the bark but also free to open as the limb grows. It’s not an original idea. Commercial swing straps are available online.
I prefer to buy round lifting slings, with an eye in each end, from companies that supply industries involved in rigging, hauling and heavy lifting. The quality of these continuous slings is top notch; they are available in a variety of lengths; I can get them in polyester, which I prefer; and I can usually find them in green, which blends nicely with the foliage. Nominally, they are 2” straps, but their scuff resistant covers make them closer to 3” wide. As used here, each sling is rated to support more than 4,000 pounds.
Generally, you’ll want to choose either a 3’ or 4’ length. An 8” diameter limb is about 25” around, which gives you about the right margin with a 3’ strap. A 10” limb is about 31” in circumference, so 4’ is a better fit, with plenty of room to grow.
The sling encircles the limb in what is called a choker configuration, that is with one eye through the other. It tightens when the swing has a passenger, and loosens when the swing is empty. As the limb grows, the loop opens.
Attach the swing rope to the eye with a secure knot. I use a figure 8 follow through knot, which has a backup knot tight against it. If you’ve ever done any climbing, you’ll know the knot, sometimes by the name trace-eight. If not, you can look it up on any of the many excellent knot tying websites. Practice before you need to execute it at height.
The same figure 8 follow through is just as good for tying the loops that attach the seat of the two-rope swing. Another good loop knot for the seat is the double bowline, again with some sort of stopper knot as insurance. I prefer to tie the seat knots first and make all length adjustments from the tree.
For a single-rope swing, the disc seat sits on a bulky stopper knot. One that works is a double overhand, which is level across the top and super easy to tie.Photo 8: The double overhand knot is easy to tie and makes an effective stopper knot for a single- rope swing. The white polyester rope is a good match for a whimsical, colourful or contemporary swing.
Consider the height of the rider
How high should you hang the swing? The right height for a tree swing depends on the size of the person or people who will be using it most.
The swing sits higher when it is empty. It also sits higher when the rope is new, before everything has stretched out and tightened up. In general, about 24” is a good starting point for an unloaded swing, and a good target ground clearance when the swing is under load is about half of that. Adjust from there. The swing should be easy to climb on and step off. It helps to have the primary swingers on hand when you’re hanging it. It also helps to have assistance on the ground. This way, one person can measure the swing height, and for a two-rope swing use a level, while the other adjusts the rope or ropes from the tree.Photo 9: A two-rope swing needs to be fairly level. A beam or torpedo level can get you close. It helps to have one person on the ground, to steady the swing and check the height and level, and another in the tree, adjusting the ropes as needed.
Working at height carries substantial risks. For many do it yourselfers, the obvious answer for reaching a tall limb is a big extension ladder. It’s one of the more hazardous ways to do the job. Now, that doesn’t mean you can’t. But if you go this route, know the risks and take extra care.Photo 10: Safety gear is cheap insurance when working at height. A dedicated safety rope with fall- arresting rope grab and lanyard (left) attaches to the D ring on the back of a standard safety harness. Other useful items include a climbing helmet, centre top; and a throw line and beanbag for getting your safety rope over a high limb from the ground, top right. If you are using climbing gear to get into the tree, mechanical ascenders and descenders make general purpose safety systems like these redundant.
Make sure that the ladder has four solid contact points, and that the ladder extends several feet past the limb you will work on. Set it at the proper angle, 75 degrees, often depicted on the side of the ladder. Take pains to ensure it is stable. Sometimes you can drive stakes, like sections of rebar, into the ground by the feet and lash the legs to them so they can’t move. Similarly, you can lash the top of the ladder to the limb. Make sure that there is nothing in the tree above you that can shake loose and knock you off.
If professional tree care workers ever use ladders to get into a tree, they tend to be sectional ladders, chained to the trunk, with stand offs between trunk and ladder to provide toe room. Lighter, less expensive versions are made for hunters to climb into their tree stands.
Even with a stable ladder, falls can happen. A safety line is worth considering, as is a climbing helmet. A basic fall arrest system might include a safety line with a rope grab. The rope grab slides along the rope as you climb but will engage to stop you if you fall. It is attached via a short lanyard to the back D ring of an appropriate safety harness. It won’t help much as you climb a ladder, but it might at height. Once in the tree, it also is easy to flip a sling around a sturdy nearby branch and tether to it. There are many options. No time spent learning about safety equipment and how to use it is wasted.
One way to get a rope into a tree is to use a throw line. It consists of a long thin line with a weighted bag on the end. The line is tossed over a strong limb or crotch above the highest point you’ll be working. Then the rope is tied to the line and pulled over. Tie one end of the rope securely around the tree. The other must be long enough to reach over the anchor point and all the way to the ground. Clip onto it and you’re off.
The best, safest way to climb into a tree is the way professionals do. With rope. If you’ve done any climbing, even at the gym, you’ve probably got the basic skills and maybe even the equipment for a simple operation like hanging a tree swing. They are fun, useful skills to learn and have. Today, innovations like foot ascenders let you use your leg muscles to zip up the rope, while braking descenders let you glide back down to earth. Arborist harnesses are extra stout and built so that you can hang and work comfortably.
After you’ve hung your swing, test everything. Start cautiously, but make sure you give everything a rigorous workout. Pull hard on the ropes in all directions. Press down on the swing. Sit on it. Check your knots. Take a test drive. Watch how the limb reacts. Listen as well. If you notice significant bowing of the limb when the swing is in use, or unusual shaking, you may need to move the anchor point closer to the trunk or select a new limb. Make sure the swing has all the clearance from the tree you expected. Think about the dumb things you did on a swing as a kid, and assume the worst about today’s children. Check the knots again for any signs of slippage. When everything checks out, it’s play time. Call the kids over. Or maybe not.Photo 11: For a traditional swing, a natural finish wood seat pairs well with synthetic manila rope. Here, the rope is 3/4” polypropylene, and the loops are created with double bowline knots. Overhand stopper knots in the tails ensure they can’t pull through. Another solid choice is the figure 8 follow through knot with a backup knot around the standing end of the rope.
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How to Install a Tree Swing
Home 4 Seasons How to Install a Tree Swing
Summertime is perfect for playing outdoors, and what backyard is complete without a tree swing?
Tree swings can provide years of fun, but it’s important to install them in a way that guarantees both your safety as well as the health of the tree. Here are some tips for the safe installation of a tree swing.
Choosing a Tree and Branch for a Swing
When hanging a tree swing, be sure to consider:
- Tree Type: The branches of a sturdy hardwood tree are best for a tree swing – oaks are ideal. Avoid fruit trees, evergreens, or trees that split easily.
- Branch Size: A tree swing needs a horizontal branch at least 8 inches in diameter that is no more than 20 feet off the ground.
- Branch Condition: The branch chosen for a tree swing must be healthy. Inspect the branch from trunk to tip, and avoid branches that show any signs of infestation, disease, splitting, or narrow connections to the main trunk. And above all, don’t use a dead branch!
- Clearance: The branch should be large enough that the swing can hang at least 3-5 feet away from the trunk without the branch bouncing.
How to Attach a Swing to a Tree
There is debate about the safest way to install a tree swing, but in general there are two main approaches:
- Eye Bolts: Carefully drill a vertical hole all the way through the center of the branch, and insert a 1/2” diameter or larger, corrosion-resistant eye bolt, using washers and nuts to secure it to the tree. The tree will eventually grow around the bolts, making a permanent installation. This method eliminates friction on the bark, but it does cause damage to the tree. To make your rope last longer, attach a carabiner to the eye bolt, then tie the rope to the carabiner.
- Rope: A tree swing can be attached to the branch using rope as long as you take steps to prevent the rope from cutting into the tree bark. If you choose to tie the rope around the tree branch, use a running bowline (or other slip knot) that will loosen when the swing is not being used, to allow the tree to grow larger without being girdled by the rope. To protect the bark, use a rope sleeve or a piece of rubber tubing to reduce friction.
Choosing Rope for a Tree Swing
Use 1/2” diameter or thicker rope to make it easy to hold and provide enough strength. There are a number of materials used for rope, including:
- Polyester Rope: Braided polyester rope is probably the best rope choice among the synthetic ropes for a tree swing. It holds up well to the elements, provides maximum strength, and has little stretch.
Braided polyester rope
- Nylon Rope: While the strongest rope, nylon is susceptible to stretching and can be slippery for little hands to grasp.
- Polypropylene Rope: This lightweight rope is the least expensive rope available. Polypropylene rope makes a poor choice since it deteriorates rapidly in the sun’s UV rays.
- Natural Fiber Rope: These include ropes made from natural plant materials including manila, cotton, sisal, and hemp. While popular for rustic tree swings, natural fiber ropes are not as strong as synthetic rope, will rot over time, and can break without warning. If you use a natural fiber rope on a tree swing, be sure to replace it every year or two.
- Metal Chain: While not as attractive as rope with a tendency to pinch small fingers, corrosion-resistant chain is strong and holds up well to the elements. Chain should only be used for swings installed with eye bolts, and not attached around a tree branch.
Tree Swing Safety Tips
Follow these tips to maximize the safety and enjoyment of your tree swing:
- Inspect the tree branch, as well as the ropes and swing itself, regularly. Look for splitting, fraying, missing bark, or other damage, and repair right away. A properly installed swing should not cause any damage or grooves in the tree.
- Plan on replacing the ropes every couple of years.
- Move the swing to new eye bolts if the tree grows over the ends.
- Make sure the rope, carabiners, and hardware are rated for the maximum weight.
- Be sure knots are tied securely to prevent unraveling.
- Hanging a Tree Swing (This Old House)
- Swing into Fall with a Tree Swing (Mother Earth News)
- How to Build a Tree Swing (This Old House)
- Tree Swing (Martha Stewart)
- Rope Materials (boatsafe.com)
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Backed by his 40-year remodeling career, Danny served as the home improvement expert for CBS’s The Early Show and The Weather Channel for more than a decade. His extensive hands-on experience and understanding of the industry make him the go-to source for all things having to do with the home – from advice on simple repairs, to complete remodels, to helping homeowners prepare their homes for extreme weather and seasons.
How to make a swing with your own hands: 10 cool options
May 29LikbezDo it yourself
You can use everything: from an old tire to a construction pallet.
1. Classic board swing
What you need
- Thick rope;
- board 30–50 mm thick;
How to do
1. Cut a piece of board about 50 cm long with a hacksaw or other saw that is at hand.Jeremy Rabe YouTube Channel
2. Paint the finished seat to protect it from rain and make it look more aesthetic.YouTube Channel Jeremy Rabe
3. With a drill a couple of millimeters larger than the thickness of the rope used, make two holes - at both ends of the board. Set back 2-3 cm from the edge so that the seat does not break, and drill exactly in the center of the vertical for even suspension.YouTube channel Jeremy Rabe
4. Divide the rope into two equal parts, make loops at the ends and fasten to a suitable branch. Place the ropes at a distance approximately equal to the width of the seat.Jeremy Rabe YouTube Channel
5. Thread the ends of the ropes through the holes in the board and tie a couple of knots at the desired height.YouTube channel Jeremy Rabe
6. Try rocking.Jeremy Rabe YouTube Channel
- If you don't have a board, a shovel handle, log, or piece of plywood will work as a seat.
2. Swing made of disc and one rope
What you need
- 4-5 boards 30-50 mm thick and 400-500 mm long;
- thick rope;
- paint or varnish;
- wood drill;
- tape measure;
- grinder or sandpaper;
How to make
1. Build a platform out of boards. To do this, spread the side ends with glue, connect them together and tighten with clamps. An easier option: nail two blocks across the boards, stepping back from the edge by 10 cm.Mitch Deitrich YouTube channel
2. Sand the top of the platform manually with sandpaper or using a machine.Mitch Deitrich YouTube Channel
3. Using a tape measure, find and mark the center of the area with a pencil. Also put a line at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of one of the sides.YouTube channel Mitch Deitrich
4. Drive a nail into the center, tie a pencil to it with a thread and draw a circle with a radius along the mark at the edge of the site. Pull out the nail; you won't need it anymore.Mitch Deitrich YouTube channel
5. Saw out the circle with a jigsaw and trim the sharp edges with a file or sandpaper.YouTube channel Mitch Deitrich
6. Using a drill, make a hole in the center with a diameter of 2-3 mm larger than the thickness of the rope of the future swing.Mitch Deitrich YouTube channel
7. Use a file to grind off the resulting sharp edges in the center so that the rope does not fray when swinging.Mitch Deitrich YouTube channel
8. Paint or varnish the resulting seat and wait until it dries.Mitch Deitrich YouTube channel
9. Thread the rope through the hole and tie a couple of knots to keep it from falling through.Mitch Deitrich YouTube Channel
10. Attach the free end of the rope to the tree.Mitch Deitrich YouTube channel
What can be changed
- The round seat can be easily replaced with a fairly strong rectangular board. It won't make the ride any worse.
- To avoid the hassle of splicing the boards, you can use a suitable piece of plywood.
3. Swing from an old tire
What you need
- bicycle inner tube;
- electrical tape;
- steel washers according to the diameter of the rope;
- thin cord or line.
1. Estimate the approximate length of the rope from the branch to the ground, and add 1 m in reserve.
Rewind in place with duct tape to keep the edges from fraying, and cut off the piece with a sharp knife.Chris Notap YouTube Channel
2. Cut the bike tube and put it on one end of the rope.Chris Notap YouTube Channel
3. Tie off this piece to form a loop wrapped around the camera. This will protect the rope from chafing and prevent it from cutting into the branch.Chris Notap YouTube Channel
4. Throw the rope over the branch and tighten the loop. For convenience, you can use a thin cord with a weight attached to it.Chris Notap YouTube Channel
5. Form a knot at a height of about 1.5-1.7 m from the ground.Chris Notap YouTube channel
6. Cut two more pieces of rope about 2 m long each. Thread them into a knot on the hanger, and then tie one knot at each end to secure.Chris Notap YouTube Channel
7. Tie a knot on the main rope from the branch. You should have three ends to hold the tire on.YouTube channel Chris Notap
8. Divide the tire into three approximately equal parts and drill holes d along the thickness of the rope, stepping back from the edge of the tire. On its back, make a few more holes for rainwater to drain.Chris Notap YouTube Channel
9. Insert the ropes into the holes, put on the washers, and fix the ends with clamps.Chris Notap YouTube channel
10. Release the tire and try to rock.Chris Notap YouTube channel
What can be changed
- Instead of clips, you can simply tie knots that will not allow the rope to fall into the washers and will securely hold the entire structure.
- If desired, the tire can be easily painted so that it looks more aesthetically pleasing and does not stain clothes.
4. Plank swing
What you need
- Piece of furniture board;
- sandpaper or planer;
- matches or lighter.
How to do
1. Step back from the edge of the furniture board by 250–300 mm, attach a square and draw a line with a pencil.YouTube channel “Mikhail Le Dantu”
2. Saw off the future swing seat along the line with a hacksaw.YouTube channel “Mikhail Le Dantu”
3. Mark with a pencil the places for attaching the rope in each corner, stepping back from the edges by 20 mm.Michael Le Dantu YouTube channel
4. Make holes with a drill. Choose a diameter so that the rope passes with difficulty and does not dangle.YouTube channel “Mikhail Le Dantu”
5. Cut the sharp corners of the plank with a hacksaw, and then grind it down with a file. If you want it to be neat, first outline the shape with a template, coin, or other round object.YouTube channel “Mikhail Le Dantu”
6. Round the top edge of the board with sandpaper or a planer so that the child does not get hurt.Michael Le Dantu YouTube channel
7. Cut two identical pieces of rope and cauterize their ends.Michael Le Dante YouTube Channel
8. Thread the ropes through the holes in the board on each side, with the loose ends on top.YouTube channel “Mikhail Le Dantu”
9. Attach the ends of the ropes to any strong support, such as a wall bar.YouTube channel "Mikhail Le Dantu"
What can be changed
- If the furniture panel is replaced with a cutting board, then all that remains is to drill holes and fix the ropes.
- The swing can be hung in a doorway, on a tree, on a terrace or pergola beam.
5. Swing made of polypropylene pipes and plywood
What you need
- Polypropylene pipe;
- pipe cutter;
How to make
1. Cut a 30 x 30 cm or 30 x 40 cm seat out of plywood. Drill holes in the corners to attach a rope. Paint the plywood if desired.
Cut the polypropylene pipe into pieces: 15 cm four pieces, 25 cm two pieces, 35 cm two pieces. Drill through holes in each piece along both edges.
Divide the rope into two equal pieces. Then fold each in half, thread and secure in carabiners. These will be the left and right suspensions.YouTube channel “Marcel Yarmakov”
2. Take the longest piece of pipe and thread one rope of the right and left hangers through the holes on each side.YouTube channel “Marcel Yarmakov”
3. Next, string the middle piece of pipe one at a time, also inserting the rope through the holes at the ends of the parts.YouTube channel "Marcel Yarmakov"
4. Next - one short piece at a time. Here, the rope is already inserted into the pipe itself, along the entire length.Marcel Yarmakov YouTube channel
5. Now thread the free ends of the left and right hangers through the holes of the second long piece.YouTube channel “Marcel Yarmakov”
6. Insert the rope into the remaining free holes in the tubes of medium length. And then add one short piece at a time, again passing the rope through the pipe along its entire length.
Pass the free ends of the hangers through the holes in the seat and tie a knot in each.Marcel Yarmakov YouTube channel
7. Attach the carabiners to any solid support. The swing is ready!YouTube channel "Marcel Yarmakov"
What can be changed
- The seat is also easy to make from a cutting board or piece of wood of a suitable size.
- Instead of pipes, wooden blocks or cuttings from garden tools will do. True, you have to tinker with drilling holes for the rope.
6. Skateboard swing
What you need
- Old skateboard;
- spade handle;
- tape measure;
How to do
1. Remove the wheels and everything else from the board.DIY Network YouTube channel
2. Step back 5 cm from the edges and mark four holes for the ropes: two on each side.DIY Network YouTube channel
3. Drill through these areas. Choose the diameter so that the rope holds as tightly as possible.DIY Network YouTube Channel
4. Cut two 30-40 cm long pieces from the handle and drill one hole in each side. Step back from the edge by 3-5 cm so that the wood does not crack. These will be the hand rests.DIY Network YouTube Channel
5. Paint the bars the same color as the skateboard.DIY Network YouTube channel
6. Divide the rope into two equal pieces and fold in half. Tie a knot at each end, but don't tie it tight just yet.DIY Network YouTube channel
7. Pass the rope through the bars, make another knot, and then pass the rope through the holes in the skateboard. Tie knots at the free ends from the bottom of the board.DIY Network YouTube Channel
8. Hang the structure from a suitable tree branch and use knots to adjust the handles to a comfortable position.DIY Network YouTube Channel
- If you make the single hangers thicker with the bifurcation of the skateboard, you can easily do without handles.
7. Swing with supports and a purchased seat
What you need
- Board 50 × 200 mm;
- board 25 × 100 mm;
- 2 anchor bolts with rings;
- 2 carabiners;
- timber 50 × 100 mm;
- swing seat;
- tape measure;
- hacksaw or jigsaw.
1. Cut the parts needed to assemble the two supports: four pieces of 2.5 m from a board 50 × 200 mm, four pieces of 1.35 m from a board of 25 × 100 mm and four pieces of 35 cm from a bar 50 × 100 mm.
Assemble the "A" structure. Fold long boards at an angle and nail lintels from the middle segments to them. Reinforce the top of the support with short pieces of timber.
Build the second swing leg in the same way.Dacha TV YouTube channel
2. Trim the protruding edges with a hacksaw or jigsaw to avoid injury.YouTube channel “Dacha TV”
3. Place a piece of board 50 × 200, 2 m long, on the crossbars at the top of the letter “A” and nail it. Raise the entire structure.YouTube channel "Dacha TV"
4. Drill holes for fasteners in the middle of the beam at a distance of 50–70 cm from each other. Wrap anchor bolts with rings in them.YouTube channel “Dacha TV”
5. Hang the seat on the ropes and fasten it to the rings with carabiners.Dacha TV YouTube channel
6. Check the strength of the structure.YouTube channel "Dacha TV"
What can be changed
- Instead of boards for supports, round beams or logs can be used.
- A purchased seat is easy to replace with a homemade one.
8. Chair swing
What you need
- sanding paper.
1. Saw off the legs of the chair with a hacksaw near the seat.deco dino YouTube channel
2. Drill one hole in each corner of the seat.YouTube channel deco dino
3. Sand the surface of the chair with sandpaper.deco dino YouTube channel
4. Paint the resulting swing seat with fresh paint and let it dry.YouTube channel deco dino
5. Divide the rope into four equal parts. Pass each piece through the hole and tie a couple of knots.deco dino YouTube channel
6. Use the loose ends to hang the structure from a thick tree branch.YouTube channel deco dino
What can be changed
- The swing can be hung on the terrace or in the pergola. It will be especially great to build several of these structures and relax with friends.
9. Pallet swing
What you need
- sandpaper or machine;
How to do
1. Sand the surface of the pallet with a sandpaper or machine to remove all burrs.SuzelleDIY YouTube channel
2. Drill six holes in the outer boards of the pallet with a diameter equal to the thickness of the rope.SuzelleDIY YouTube Channel
3. Flip the palette over and do the same on the other side. Try to keep the holes in the top and bottom boards on top of each other.YouTube channel SuzelleDIY
4. Go over all the holes with sandpaper or a machine to remove burrs and not damage the rope.SuzelleDIY YouTube channel
5. Prepare two pieces of rope. Wrap the rope with tape and cut in this place. Then cauterize so that the edges do not fray.SuzelleDIY YouTube Channel
6. Snake the rope through the holes on one end of the pallet and tie knots at the ends.SuzelleDIY YouTube Channel
7. Do the same on the other side of the palette.
Straighten the ropes to look like the cables of a suspension bridge, and connect with carabiners - one on each side.YouTube channel SuzelleDIY
8. Take two more pieces of rope and tie them in a loop at both ends.YouTube channel SuzelleDIY
9. Throw these ropes over a thick tree branch.SuzelleDIY YouTube channel
10. Attach the pallet to the hangers with the carabiners.YouTube channel SuzelleDIY
11. Lay down a blanket and bring pillows.SuzelleDIY YouTube Channel
- Instead of a rope, top hangers can be easily made from chains. Support cables can also be replaced with chains, but it will look too brutal.
10. Garden swing with legs
What you need
- Beam 100 × 100 mm;
- timber 50 × 50 mm;
- galvanized chain;
- board 25 × 100 mm;
- mounting plates;
- tape measure;
How to make
5 seeYouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Dervedmid"
2. Assemble two supports in the form of the letter "A" with the upper and lower braces from a bar 50 × 50 mm. Drill through the parts and connect with bolts.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Treevedmid”
3. Cut off a 1.8 m long crossbar from a 100 × 100 mm beam and fasten it to the upper stops of the uprights by tightening it with bolts.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Derivedmid
4. Saw six boards 120 cm long: three for the back and three more for the seat.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Derivedmid"
5. On the top board of the backrest, if desired, cut out a pattern with a jigsaw. Sand well with sandpaper.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Derivedmid”
6. Attach three boards with screws to the pieces of timber 50 × 50 mm - this will be the seat.
Do the same for the back and join the two pieces together at the desired angle.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Derivedmid»
7. Saw out the armrests from two boards and attach them with screws through the beam to the seat and back.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Derivedmid"
8. Drill holes for the bolts in the beam and install them through the chain link. Fix it on top with a nut, and so that it does not fall into a tree, place a metal plate or a large-diameter washer.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Derivedmid»
9. Make holes in the beams of the seat, insert bolts into them and fix the ends of the chains.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Derivedmid»
10. Adjust the length of the hangers to the desired position.YouTube channel “Mikhail .MD. Derivedmid"
What can be changed
- For more strength, you can add another cross beam at the bottom of the back of the supports.
- If desired, construct a canopy made of polycarbonate or canvas to protect from the sun and rain.
Read also ⚒👍🤗
- 9 ways to make a DIY hammock
- 7 benches you can make yourself
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- How to make your own garden path: inspirational photos + instructions
- 10 ways to make your own greenhouse
DIY swing: 5 easy ideas
To make the rest of children in the country more eventful and interesting, make a garden swing for them. If you do not know how to do this, we will show you some original and simple ways.
When building a swing, you need to remember that not only the comfort of the child is important, but also, first of all, his safety. Therefore, give preference to durable materials. For example, if you are using wood, make sure that it is firm and not dried out, and the ropes are strong and reliable.
1. Pallet swing
If wooden pallets are left on your site after buying building materials, do not rush to send them to kindle the stove. These pallets can be used as a base for garden swings.
You will need one of these wooden pallets, two strong ropes or metal chains, and a stable object to attach the swing to. It can be a tree trunk or support on strong pillars dug deep into the ground.
If you have a few unnecessary wooden pallets, use your imagination and make a more convenient option - a swing-bench, where you can not only ride, but also relax reading a book or indulge in sleep. Put a soft mattress and pillows on the swing - and not only children, but also adults will be delighted with this comfortable place.
2. Children's swing made from a snowboard or skateboard
A board from a broken skateboard or snowboard can also serve as material for a seat. The main thing is to securely attach it to the ropes and supports. If there are wheels left on the skateboard, it will not be difficult at all to transform the board into a swing: make two loops from the ropes and thread the board into them so that the wheels prevent the rope from slipping.
3. Hoop and rope swing
To build such an original swing, you will need a steel gymnastic hoop, foam rubber and a strong clothesline. Use it to braid the hoop as shown in the picture.
1. Tie 2 ropes to the hoop so that their loops are threaded into each other.
2. Do the same perpendicular to the first ropes.
3. Repeat the manipulations at different angles. At the same time, keep in mind that the ropes need to be pulled very tight.
4. On this frame, with another rope, make a circular braid, securing it at each intersection with the stretched ropes (in the figure these places are marked with blue dots).
Then wrap the rim between the knots with a rope so that they do not slip, and then wrap everything with foam rubber to make sitting on the swing softer and more comfortable.
Attach a strong rope to the rim in four places and hang the swing by the resulting "handles" to a tree or other support.
Weaving can be anything. You can apply the technique that is used to create a hammock.
4. Swing from an old chair
If you don't have time to build a classic children's swing from wooden boards or beams, use a massive chair without legs as a seat. But be sure to make sure that this item is strong enough.
5. Tire swing
This version of the swing has long been traditional. They are also attached to support bars or a thick tree.
Thoroughly wash and dry the old tire, lay it horizontally, cut 3 or 4 holes, insert metal hooks into them and secure them with washers and nuts. Thread strong ropes or chains through the hook loops.