How to share your tree on ancestry


Two Ways to Share Your Family Tree on Ancestry: How to Share Your Tree

In this post, you will learn how to share your family tree on Ancestry.  I’ll teach you two different ways to do it, so you can choose the best one for your situation.

Are you trying to decide whether to go through the steps of building your family tree on Ancestry?  Or maybe you already built your tree, and are wondering how to share it with a relative? 

Why would you want to share your tree?

A few months ago, my sister decided to do the Ancestry DNA test.  Since both of our parents have already done the test, I don’t think that we will learn anything new – other than that she is absolutely, positively, my father’s daughter. 

Regardless, she has been very curious about which ethnicities will show up in her DNA.  There is nothing quite like getting your DNA results back and seeing what your DNA is made up of.

Since my sister has not really been involved in researching our family tree, her natural question was whether my family tree would merge with hers once her results came back.   The unfortunate answer is no. 

It would be so wonderful if Ancestry would just recognize that she is my sister and place her right into my tree where she belongs.  Wouldn’t that be fantastic? 

We just don’t have the science/technology to do this quite yet.

Fortunately, it’s not hard to share your family tree with your family members who do the test.  Making a new tree is so much work, and many people aren’t interested in putting in the time investment to make their own. 

I’m still not sure, but I think my sister might be one of these people.

Even though she isn’t as interested in doing research as I am, I still want her to enjoy her DNA results to the max – so I am going to share my family tree with her. 

This way, she will be able to be in ThruLines, have Common Ancestor Hints, and be able to figure out more easily how she is connected to her DNA matches. 

And who knows, maybe she’ll catch the genealogy bug!?

Have you built your tree on Ancestry yet?

Are you still trying to decide whether Ancestry is the best place for you to build your tree?  I love it, use it, and recommend it to all of my readers since it’s the best place to easily integrate online records into your family tree.  

You can also attach your DNA results to your family tree to get additional information about your DNA results, and learn more about your ancestry. 

You don’t need a subscription to build your tree, access it, or share it, but it is helpful to have a subscription when you are actively doing research and accessing documents (it makes it wayyy easier!!).

How to share your tree on Ancestry with someone else on Ancestry

Do you want to keep ownership of your tree, but allow your relative access within Ancestry’s website?  Ancestry calls this “sharing” your tree. 

If you choose to do it this way, you will be able to control how much access they can have, and whether or not they can edit your tree and add new people.  Additionally, you can specify how whether they can see living people (privacy issues). 

You can also delete their access to your tree at any time (but I know there is no drama in your family!).

How to do this:  This is a super simple thing to do, but it can be tricky to find the place on your tree where you do it.

Here are the steps:

  • You have to log in to your Ancestry account, and click on the tab on the top where it says “TREES”.
  • A menu should drop down, and just choose the tree that you want to share access to.
  • From within the screen where you can see your tree, in the top left corner below the menu, you will see a box that says “YOUR NAME Family Tree”.  Immediately to the right of the name of your tree, you will see a little down arrow – click on that!  This is what it looks like:
  • A dropdown menu will appear.  Choose “Sharing”.
  • A box will pop up where you can share your tree with someone either using their username or their e-mail address.  I usually just e-mail addresses.  This is where you can choose their access level to your tree.

The default is to NOT let people that you share your tree with see living people in the tree.  After you send the invite, a little message will pop up that reads: “You can use your tree settings to assign roles and manage invites. ”  Just click on that link and it will let you make adjustments as needed.

How to Download/export Your Ancestry Tree as a GedCom File For Sharing

Are you the super generous sharing type? If you think that your relative is interested in doing their own research, another good option is to actually give them a digital file. 

This gives them freedom to add/change/delete at-will.  It keeps you out of it (you might not want to be involved).  It’s also a good way to make sure that information gets passed down and shared through the generations. 

In my family, my great-grandmother had done a lot of work on the family tree.  This file was shared with some of her grandchildren, and their children. 

In some families, distance and generations can cause information to get lost – so you can avoid this by sending people your Gedcom file.

Here are the steps:

  • Log in to your Ancestry account, and click on the tab on the top where it says “TREES”.
  • On the dropdown menu, choose the tree that you would like to export (that is what this process is called).
  • On the right side of the name of your tree, you will see a little down arrow – click on it!  This is what it will look like:
  • Click on the “Tree Settings” option.
  • When your tree settings page loads, you will see a green button that says “Export Tree”.  Click on the button.  Here is a quick screenshot of what it looks like:
If you click the “Export tree” button, Ancestry’s website will begin the process of creating a GEDCOM file for you to download – the larger your tree, the more time it will take
  • Once you click on the button, Ancestry will start to generate a Gedcom file.
  • Once it is finished, a green button will appear that says “Download Gedcom File”.  Click on it, and choose “Save” when the box appears.

Here is a screenshot of where the button will appear (Note:  It will say “Export Tree” until you click on it and the file is ready)

Click the “Download your GEDCOM File” button to start downloading. It will save to the folder where your downloads usually go

That’s it!  These are super easy steps, and now you can easily show your family members what you’ve learned!

Conclusion

I hope that this post helped you learn more about how the different ways that it is possible to share your family tree with a family member.  Do you have any questions about these steps or any other aspect of sharing your family tree? 

Let me know here in the comments!

Thanks for stopping by.

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Tips and Tricks for Beginners

Ancestry.com: Tips and Tricks for Beginners

By Family Tree Editors Premium

Written by David Fryxell, unless otherwise noted

When you first delve into Ancestry.com, the world’s largest subscription collection of genealogy databases, it can be a bit mind-boggling. After all, Ancestry.com encompasses some 31,000 collections with more than 20 billion historical records. Subscribers can access all available US census records, from 1790 through the 1950 census, along with many Canadian, English and Welsh enumerations.

You’ll find military records including collections of soldiers from the Revolutionary War, Civil War and both world wars. Vital records cover many US states, Canada and the United Kingdom, and immigration records range from passenger lists for most American ports to border-crossing files. Plus, you’ll find more than 20,000 digitized family and local history books, along with city directories and yearbooks and scanned and searchable newspapers dating back to the 18th century.

To help jump-start your research on the site, here are our best Ancestry.com tips (not all of which even require paying for a subscription). As you work your way through these ideas, you’ll uncover even more Ancestry.com strategies that can help you branch out and document your family tree.

1.

Explore what’s available for free.

Even though the core of Ancestry.com is its treasure trove of subscriber-only databases, the site also offers a surprising number of free data collections. If you’re still debating whether to subscribe to Ancestry.com, trying out its free collections is a good way to get a feel for the site and how it works.

You can view all free records collections on Ancestry.com from a single page. You can even search all these collections at once.

Many of these collections, it’s true, require a subscription to view full results or the scanned image of the original record. That’s the case with most US census collections, although you can view the 1880 and 1940 enumerations in their entirety for free; you just need to register and create a free account.

Yet even those “free” collections in which the complete records are hidden behind a pay wall can provide valuable information. Searching the 1881 English census, for example, will reveal not only whether an ancestor is listed, but also the person’s year and city of birth as well as county of residence in 1881.

2. Create or upload your family tree.

There’s no charge to create and share your own family tree files on Ancestry.com. You’ll get the most out of this experience, though, by subscribing. Your subscription will allow you to view data matches as well as other subscribers’ trees that overlap with yours. Ancestry.com hosts some 100 million family trees, containing 13 billion profiles of ancestors, plus more than 330 million photographs, scanned documents and written stories attached to those trees.

To begin, select the Trees link on the home page then select “Create & Manage Trees” from the dropdown menu. Scroll to the bottom of the page and click “Create a new tree”; you’ll see a rudimentary pedigree chart where you can type in your data. Alternatively you can select “Upload a GEDCOM file”, which lets you share a GEDCOM (the universal file format for family trees) you’ve exported from your genealogy software. You can also upload “zipped” GEDCOM and image files (GEDZ). Just browse to the file on your computer, select and upload it, and Ancestry.com will interpret the file and create your online tree.

3. Follow your hints.

Once you’ve created or uploaded one or more family trees, links to them appear in the Trees drop-down menu whenever you sign in to Ancestry.com. Click on one of your trees, and you’ll see a typical lines-and-boxes view, with each ancestor’s name and relevant dates. You may see a leaf icon in the corner of an ancestor’s box; this indicates that Ancestry.com has a “hint” for you—data it’s automatically found that may match that ancestor. (A box at the top of the page shows how many hints await your attention.)

To explore these hints, click one of your ancestors bearing a leaf icon. In a summary window, you’ll see how many hints are available to review (“8 Ancestry hints”). Click this link for a list of the data matches Ancestry.com has identified.

You can click on each data source to view that record, or select Review to jump to a comparison between what Ancestry. com has found and what’s in your tree. Determine if the hints is a good match for your tree. If the data obviously doesn’t apply to your ancestor, select Ignore to dismiss it. Check or uncheck these found facts, then pick Save to Your Tree to import the info you’ve checked.

4. Perform a global search.

Because Ancestry.com’s wealth of data can be overwhelming, sometimes the best way to explore its collections is just to dive in and see everything it provides on a given ancestor. You can do this from the home page, where blanks invite you to fill in a first and last name, place an ancestor might have lived, and estimated birth year.

If you know a little more about an ancestor, click “Show more options.” This expands the search form to include other life events and family members, plus a drop-down for gender and blanks for race and keyword. you can also prioritize or restrict your search by collection (such as English or Jewish) or select only certain types of records.

What might you try as a keyword? Consider groups your ancestor might have belonged to, such as Flying Tigers, Elks or Lutheran, as well as occupations and even place names that Ancestry.com doesn’t recognize and automatically populate.

This more-advanced search form also offers the option to search just for exact matches. Use this checkbox with caution, however; you can always choose to narrow your search once you see the results, using the Edit Search button or r hot key.

5. Search by category.

Despite the power of Ancestry.com’s global search, sometimes you get better results by searching a single category—zooming in on your ancestor’s military or passenger arrival records, for example. To search a single category, select it from the drop-down list under Search. For categories not shown there, such as Schools, Directories & Church Histories, pick Search All Collections, then select the category (or subcategory) from the list on the right side of the main search page.

Another reason to search by category is that these category-search pages present different options. The Immigration & Travel search page, for example, lets you specify an ancestor’s arrival and departure dates and place of origin—options not readily available on the main search page. (You can, however, add arrival and departure there as life events.) The Military search page has a date and location search box set specifically for military service.

6. Explore others’ family trees, but focus on sources.

The real benefit of sharing your family tree on Ancestry.com is hoping others tracing your family will do likewise. Family trees are included in the site’s global search. But you can focus on them by selecting Public Member Trees under Search. Results show the basics about an ancestor from each tree. Here, you’ll see how many sources and attachments accompany the data.

While unsourced info in others’ family trees can provide clues for your own research, focus on those with sources. Look particularly in the results list for those that not only have sources (which may be just somebody else’s unverified family tree) but that show “attached records.” These can be a research gold mine—everything from transcribed wills to pages from family histories. You may even find photos, indicated by a little camera icon.

You can also search just for Public Member Stories submitted along with family trees.

7. Add notes to records you find on Ancestry.com.

You might find errors in the site’s index, where the transcriber who read the name in a historical record misinterpreted what the record said. Or the census taker or county clerk might have garbled your relative’s name on the original record. Or maybe the record shows Great-grandpa’s given name, and you know the nickname he more commonly used.

On the record summary page, you can click the Leave a Comment button to leave a general comment with more information on the record. Others will be able to see your user name as the person who left a comment, potentially putting you in touch with more relatives.

8. Connect with cousins.

What if you find someone researching your family, and you want to connect to share information? Toward the top of each family tree page is a profile icon. Click this to view more about the owner of the tree. Depending on the person’s settings, you may be able to send an email via Ancestry.com by clicking Message. You also can read about the person’s research interests.

9. Opt out of DNA matches if you want to.

While Ancestry.com considers the ability to find possible DNA matches to be one of their most beneficial services, they respect the critical importance of privacy and the ability for members to control their own data. While many of their 6 million members love having discovering possible DNA matches and family members, this ability makes controlling your own data incredibly simple.

By accessing your DNA Settings page and adjusting your DNA Match List setting to ‘no’, you can ensure that no one will see you in their list of possible matches. If existing members wish to continue seeing their matches, and continue having their information shared on match lists, you need to make no changes, as the automatic setting on your account will be ‘yes’.

Ashlee Peck

10. Understand you can inherit different DNA than your siblings.

You inherit 50% of your DNA from each of your parents, and so do your siblings, but that doesn’t mean it’s the same 50%. The mix that gets passed from your grandparents down through your parents can vary with each child. That means you might have different ethnicity estimates and matches in some cases.

Vanessa Wieland

11. Know your ethnicity estimates can change

There’s a reason they use the word “estimates” to describe what your ethnic makeup is. As more people test, they’re able to refine the information. Ethnicity is based on a sample group of people whose ancestors came from the same area. The science behind this aspect of testing is continually evolving, so they continue to tweak your results as the sample size grows.

Vanessa Wieland

12. Look for old photos of family and the places they lived.

Try databases including US School Yearbooks, Public Member Photos and Scanned Documents, and Historical Postcards (separate databases are named for 10 countries or regions, including the US, Germany and Austria, Canada, Italy and others). Find more with a card catalog search on the keyword pictures.

Diane Haddad

Although other subscription sites now rival Ancestry.com’s collection of historical newspapers, it’s still a useful tool for beating your brick walls and learning about your ancestors’ lives. (Ancestry.com has a bigger subscription-based site, Newspapers.com, that’s available to Ancestry.com subscribers at a discounted rate.) To search only old newspapers, go to Search All Collections and scroll down to Newspapers under Stories & Publications on the right.

Here it’s often useful to filter your search by location, using the links at the upper right. Click on USA, for instance, and then select a state and possibly a city in the left-hand links on the page that appears. You also can filter by dates.

14. Scour message boards.

An often-overlooked resource is Ancestry.com’s vast array of message boards. This part of the site, “the world’s largest online genealogy community,” has more than 25 million posts on 198,000 boards. This link is located under Help, or you can go straight to boards.ancestry.com. These message boards are identical to those on the long-standing free RootsWeb site, which is why they represent such a rich resource. Why tackle a genealogy challenge from scratch when somebody may have already solved it here?

At the very least, it’s worth checking the boards for all the surnames you’re researching, as well as the ancestral places (typically by county) where your family has lived. You can also explore specialized boards devoted to everything from the Crimean War to Australian cemeteries. If you post, use a subject line such as Harrison family in Ripley County, Ind. That way, other researchers surfing the boards will quickly know whether your most might pertain to their families.

15. Edit your tree on the go with the Ancestry app.

Use Ancestry.com’s free mobile app for Apple or Android to create and edit your Member Tree on your phone or tablet. You can add records you find in Ancestry.com, as well as records uploaded from your device. Changes will automatically sync to all your devices.

Rick Crume

16. Save your finds.

Once you’ve found facts about your ancestors on Ancestry.com, what should you do with these records? Ancestry.com provides several built-in ways to save “hits” related to your family history. First, of course, you can print the records you find—always a good backup. It’s a good idea to print both the image of the original record, if available, and Ancestry.com’s transcription of it, then staple these together.

It’s also easy to save your finds digitally. When viewing a record, click the Save button in the upper right corner. This brings up a box where you can choose to attach the record to someone in your tree or save it to your computer’s hard drive. An advantage of attaching a record to an Ancestry.com tree is that you can then view it using Ancestry’s free smartphone and tablet apps.

17. Attach long records as PDFs.

When saving a record to your Member Tree, Family Tree Maker software or computer, you can save only one page at a time. This takes awhile for large files, such as a long Revolutionary War pension file or a book chapter, and it creates a new attached record for each page. HeritageQuest Online, available through many libraries, used to let you download multiple pages from a book or a whole pension file at once. But now that Ancestry.com “powers” HeritageQuest Online, you can save only one page at a time. To speed things up, you could attach select pages from a long record, or use software like Adobe Acrobat to combine the pages into a single PDF.

Rick Crume

18.

Don’t lose access to your records.

Anyone can create an Ancestry Member Tree for free, and paying subscribers can attach Ancestry.com records to people in their trees. But if you let your subscription lapse, you could be in for an unpleasant surprise: You’ll be able to access your tree and any records uploaded from your computer, but not the records attached from Ancestry.com. To avoid this, when you attach a record to someone in your Member Tree, save a copy to your computer with a descriptive file name so you can easily find it. You also could use Family Tree Maker software to keep a copy of your family tree on your computer that syncs with your online tree.

All these options are easy to use, and that’s a good thing. Once you’ve tried all these suggestions for using Ancestry.com, you’ll have plenty of family history finds to save.

Use names and places found on Ancestry.com as a springboard for searches on sites such as Google, FamilySearch, MyHeritage, and Findmypast. Check for city directories, digitized books and newspapers, and other types of genealogy records on other sites as well.

A version of this article appeared in the March/April 2013 issue of Family Tree Magazine.

Ancestry.com Search Tips: Your Ultimate Guide

Searching on genealogy mega-site Ancestry.com can feel overwhelming. Here are tips and other free resources to help you get the most out of your Ancestry searches.

Ancestry

Author

Family Tree Editors

Burkov studio: Overview of exotic woods

TEC

Botanical description:
Teak (Tectona), a genus of tropical hardwood trees, from the Verbenaceae family. Teak is native to southern and southwestern Asia, where it is a common component of monsoon forests. Teak grows naturally in India, Malaysia, Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), Indonesia. Now teak tree plantations are spreading in Central America (Panama, Costa Rica)

Teak

The name teak comes from the Malay word Thekku. The Latin name Tectona grandis comes from the words tecton - carpentry, and grandis - large.
These large trees grow up to 30-45 meters in height, the diameter of the trunk reaches 1.5 m, and in old trees it is almost 2 meters. The length of the trunk to the beginning of the crown varies from 6 to 25 meters. The leaves of the tree are 25-30 cm long and 17-37 cm wide. Teak trees shed their leaves during the dry season.
Teak leaves are used in India to make Pellakai gatti, breadfruit dumplings. The dough is poured into a teak sheet and steamed. The teak tree blooms with tassels of white, small, but plentiful flowers.

Three types of teak are known:
* Tectona grandis (common teak), is of the greatest importance, widely distributed in India and Indo-China.
* Tectona hamiltoniana (Dahat teak) is a local endemic species found in Burma, where it is on the verge of extinction.
* Tectona philippinensis (Philippine teak) is endemic to the Philippines and is threatened.

Real teak develops its golden sandy brown color when exposed to sun and rain.

Teak parquet

Color differences even out under long-term exposure to the atmosphere. Fresh cut has a very diverse range of colors (green, dark brown, light brown, gray-white, etc.). Coating Teak with a special oil brings out its natural color. The oil gives the teak wood a deep, rich and juicy color. Teak wood without oil and varnish treatment becomes silver-gray.

Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and moisture in open space conditions, Teak acquires a luxurious silvery gray color. Teak wood has a narrow grayish or white sapwood. Wood has its own characteristic smell. Has a dull sheen. The average density factor is 0.55 (weight of dried wood/volume of freshly sawn wood), which corresponds to an air-dry wood density of 670 kg/m3. Fiber - smooth strips with periodic mineral inclusions. Wood has a pronounced texture.

The wood of old trees grown slowly in natural conditions is stronger and more durable than the wood of young trees grown in plantations. Young wood is more prone to splitting and water damage. It is common for plantation teak to have irregular patterns of dark streaks or spots. However, drying selected wood from plantations in special kilns makes it comparable in quality to wood from naturally grown trees.

Teak dries well but rather slowly, shrinkage is very low. The average shrinkage rates (when drying fresh wood in a chamber) are: radial - 2.5%, tangential - 5.8%, volumetric - 7.0%. Can be air or oven dried. Once dried, teak retains good geometrical stability.

Application

Teak is one of the most famous trees in the world due to its valuable properties - durability, strength, weight, workability and attractive appearance. Teak wood is very durable in both dry and wet conditions.

Teak wood is used for the production of outdoor furniture, ship decking, and other products designed for operation in difficult weather conditions. Also, floors are made from it in rooms with high humidity. Teak veneer and plywood are used for elegant wall coverings in homes and offices, for furniture finishing.

Fashionable in the 1950s and 60s, the style of teak furniture known as "Danish Modern" is now experiencing its second peak in popularity. Teak furniture is in high demand among classic furniture types.

BUBINGO

Bubingo is found in the botanical literature under this name - Guibourtia tessmanii. The presented tree can be found in a flat, striped form or pomelo.

The origin of Bubingo is Africa. It is found mainly in Cameroon and Gabon. The height reaches 25-30 m with a diameter of 1 m or more. The core of the tree has a red-purple color with dark veins. Sapwood is lighter in tone. The wood is hard and heavy. Bubingo edged boards are suitable for any kind of polishing and staining. Bubingo lumber is used both for the production of luxury furniture and for the production of mass products, but to a greater extent, for the production of decorative veneer. When planing, the wood and the finished veneer are called "bubinga" (bubinga), when peeling (it makes a slightly different veneer pattern) - "kevasingo" (kevasingo).

LAPACHO

Lapacho tree - properties and characteristics

Description: Name: Lapacho (local).
Botanical name: Tabebuia Serratifolia (bot.)
German name: Ipe (German)
English name: Guayacan (English)

The species name tabebuia comes from the language of South American Indians. This species includes an extensive and diverse population of trees, which has undergone many changes in its botanical nomenclature over time. To date, this species is divided into four different groups: thuja, roble, lapacho and others. The most common name used is ipe. It is sometimes called the iron tree. As a rule, trees reach a height of 40-45 meters with regular trunks with a diameter of 60-90 cm.

Colour: The relatively broad sapwood is yellowish white and distinctly different from the heartwood. When freshly sawn, Ipe heartwood is greyish in color, darkening over time to greyish green and brownish olive. Freshly sawn Ipe wood contains a wide range of colors, quickly turning into a more uniform, darker brown and dark brown. The difference in color depends mainly on where the tree grows. Color can vary from light yellowish brown with a greenish sheen to dark brown, almost black.

This wood is very durable. The wood is very resistant to rot, fungus and termites, and resistant to shipworm attack. It has been tested by the US Timber Lab with a plus rating for 25 years of use or more. The wood has improved resistance to natural fire (NFPA class rating or UBC class 1). Wood has a high resistance to chemical treatment.

Growing region: Central and South America (Colombia, Venezuela, Brazil, Peru, Bolivia).

Application: suitable for heavily loaded timber structures: stairs, floors, beams, etc. Contains a lot of oily substances and is highly resistant to external influences. This is one of the few types of wood that is recommended for "street" (terrace) wooden coverings.
Floor coverings for industrial and residential premises, furniture, stair handrails, building beams, logs, beams, decorative veneer. It is irreplaceable at arrangement of sea docks, moorings and piers.

Lapacho is a variety of ipe; grows in the tropical forests of Central and South America. Lapacho sapwood is much lighter than heartwood. The color of lapacho wood varies from light, ash-beige or fawn to the darkest mocha. The structure of the tree is wavy, with fine fibers; woven veins are visible. Lapacho wood is heavy and hard, difficult to work but good to polish; it is also suitable for turning products; very stable when treated with pesticides. In addition, Brazil walnut wood has a long service life, does not rot, is resistant to fungi and parasites (the tree is resistant to termites, but can be damaged by shipworm). Lapacho wood is used in the manufacture of furniture, parquet, in large-scale construction and industry (due to the high strength of lapacho, sleepers and industrial flooring are often made from it).

And in South America, a drink made from lapacho bark is better known than parquet made from its wood; its recipe for this drink was known even to the Incas.

Lapacho contains a lot of vitamins and microelements: iron, potassium, copper, calcium. Lapacho contains 18 different quinones that are rarely found in the same plant. There is no caffeine.
The Incas called lapacho the "tree of life" and treated almost all diseases with a drink from its crushed bark: intestinal inflammation, cancer, diabetes, arthritis, anemia, asthma, impotence, hair loss, etc. Today, the plant is used in Brazilian clinics to treat patients with leukemia, diseases that reduce immunity. The antitumor effect explains the presence in lapacho of such an antioxidant as carnasol. And the presence of tecomin helps to lower blood sugar levels.

Method of preparation Perhaps lapacho is the only tea-like drink that is boiled for preparation. The method of preparation is simple: boil a liter of water and add 3-4 teaspoons of lapacho, then boil for another 5 minutes and let the tea brew for another 15 minutes. It turns out a light brown refreshing drink with a peculiar bitter taste. You can drink both warm and cold.

PALISANDER

Rosewood is a wood (namely, wood, not wood) that has perhaps the most diverse origins. After all, not only different species, genera, but even families of plants compete for the honor of being called a rosewood!

Rosewood is a fairly stable wood in the Russian climate and has long been used as one of the main exotic woods in block parquet. Previously, rosewood was selected more carefully and the presence of planks with a greenish tint was considered unacceptable for the highest grade A. Mass felling has critically reduced the number of rosewood forests, and therefore the sale of rosewood parquet in Europe is now prohibited in principle. Even Asian companies now allow rosewood with a greenish tint, but, perhaps, in the next few years, rosewood parquet may become unaffordable.

In the most general sense and in terms of wood, and not the epistemology of its origin, rosewood is called a dense, durable and beautiful wood, mostly pink. And to what genus-tribe it belongs is often a secondary matter. So, being similar in their technical and aesthetic characteristics, rosewood gives South American jacarandas (Jacaranda) from the Bignoniaceae family and Dalbergia (Dalbergia) from the legume family. The English name Rosewood (rose tree) is generally a descriptive term. However, botanists tend to consider wood obtained from trees of the genus Dalbergia as a “real” rosewood.

Even if we take only one genus of Dalbergia, it is not easy to figure it out here either. In it, various scientists count 100, 150 and even 300 species! They grow throughout the tropical zone - America, Africa, Southeast Asia. Among the species there are both powerful trees and small shrubs, which, however, do not represent any value in terms of obtaining wood.

Depending on the species and place of growth, the diameter of the trunk ranges from 0.3 to 1.5 meters, and the average height of a mature tree is 25 meters. The wood is expensive because it grows very slowly - it takes about two centuries to reach "maturity".

A hearty breed that varies in color depending on the variety. The main tone is pinkish with a brown tint. May be darker - the color of bitter chocolate with a pattern of darker veins, sometimes with a dark purple tint. True rosewoods obtained from Dalbergia have a pleasant floral scent when freshly cut, which, unfortunately, disappears after drying. The sapwood is lighter in color, pronounced and not used in production. Rosewood wood (regardless of origin) is very dense (0.85-1.01 g / cm³) and hard (about 3000 units on the Jank scale).

Rosewood dries without problems, but to minimize the formation of cracks, “gentle” modes are chosen - wood is expensive. It is difficult to process it manually due to its high hardness. Drilled, hollowed, milled and turned - in accordance with the hardness; sticks together well and polishes remarkably well, especially with the use of waxes. It perfectly resists moisture, fungus, mold and woodworms - even termites do not spoil it, they can not cope.

Elite furniture and floor coverings are made from rosewood - piece and especially artistic parquet, massive and parquet boards. But these are all top class products. An exceptionally beautiful veneer is peeled and planed from it, its pattern depends on the choice of the direction of the cut, which allows it to diversify and obtain surprisingly exquisite patterns. They make musical instruments from rosewood, or rather their individual elements - usually these are the nut and fingerboards of stringed bowed and plucked instruments. The plates of xylophones and the bodies of chic acoustic and electric guitars are also made in rosewood. Cues made of rosewood are valued among billiard players.

Due to its decorativeness and stability, rosewood is used in the design of luxury yachts, wagons and liners. Strength and durability make it a desirable material for the production of window frames and doors, but only a few allow themselves such "squandering".

The most famous and common types of rosewood are usually considered:
Indian - Dalbergia latifolia - grows naturally in India, Java, Sri Lanka, Pakistan; grown artificially in Indonesia. Commercial names also abound - Bombay ebony, Indonesian rosewood, Malabar, Sonokeling and, of course, Indian rosewood.
Sissoo - Dalbergia sissoo - is another species that grows only in India, in trade practice it often goes under the name of Indian rosewood.
Rio rosewood (Rio jacaranda) - Dalbergia nigra - is currently so scarce that extraction and export are prohibited. This wood is not represented on the official market.
Kingwood (royal tree or violet jacaranda) - Dalbergia cearensis - also of Brazilian origin, has purple wood. It mainly goes to small crafts and typesetting decor (marquetry, intarsia, etc.) Royal - because it was a particularly popular material during the time of King Louis XIV. Sometimes it is confused with another South American breed of a similar color - amaranth.
Cocobolo (granadillo) - Dalbergia retusa - grows from Panama to Mexico; wood of bright color of various tones, sometimes reminiscent of a rainbow in many colors. Limited on the market.
Brazilian tulip (jacaranda rose) - Dalbergia frutescens - freshly cut wood smells like tulips. Mining began in the 18th century, so now the reserves are small and wood is used mainly for decoration or small-form works.
Amazonian rosewood (jacaranda do Para) - Dalbergia spruceana - also from Brazil, has limited industrial value.

Rosewood is also found in other countries of Asia, for example - Siamese, which is called the "fire tree" and Burmese - Burmese tulip (or pink) tree. They also bring rosewood grown in Cambodia and Vietnam, each has its own name. However, all these species are represented on the market very little.

IROKO

The iroko tree, like most exotic trees for us, has many names that not only do not give, but often distort the general idea of ​​it. Even modern botanists have not come to a consensus on how to call him. Some call it Chlorophora excelsa, others Chlorophora regia (meaning long and royal chlorophyll, respectively). Still others call Milicia excelsa in memory of Senhor Milicio, one of the former leaders of present-day Mozambique, and not at all in memory of the militia that existed in our country. Other names under which this wood can be found are abang, amoreira, odum, bang, lusanga, rokko, hosanne, oroko, semli, chamfutu, mvule, flounder, moreira rule, African teak or oak, Nigerian teak. This is not a complete list, due to its numerous African countries, on whose lands it is still growing (its reserves are rapidly declining) and iroko is mined. This list includes almost all states of the equatorial part of Africa from Côte d̕Ivoire to Cameroon. Almost everywhere where its main distributor lives - the straw-yellow fruit bat, which feeds on sweet fruits (Iroko belongs to the mulberry genus) and, having passed them through its intestines, prepares the seeds for germination ..

This African giant reaches a height of fifty meters and its trunk often exceeds three meters in thickness. At half height and even higher, there are no knots on the trunk, the butt is also practically absent. The tree is covered with ash-gray bark, the crown is dense, consists of numerous branches covered with large oval-shaped leaves up to a quarter of a meter long. Their inner surface is covered with soft fluff, and the outer surface is rough to the touch and resembles sandpaper. Iroko belongs to the heartwood, the sapwood has a small thickness (from 5 to 8 cm) and a pale brown color. The core is colored in brown tones of various saturation - from light amber to dark chestnut. In the process of drying, the color of the wood becomes darker. It dries without problems, occasionally showing a tendency to cracking. Dried wood has a density of about 670 kg/m³..

An insidious feature of iroko wood is the stones found in it. These are natural deposits of calcium carbonate (chalk) that seriously impede processing, leading to damage to the cutting tool. The reason for their appearance has not been reliably established, it is believed that they arise as a result of mechanical damage during the growth process. But, despite such "pitfalls", iroko as a whole is easily and well processed by any kind of tool, showing a moderately wavy, but moderately large and even texture. .

Mechanically, iroko wood is comparable to teak and oak, although it is somewhat inferior to them in terms of bending strength and resistance to compression along the fibers. It adheres well and holds screws or nails. To improve the quality of the surface finish, pore-filling and pre-priming are recommended. But iroko is exceptionally resistant to decay and damage by woodworms - grinders sometimes gnaw through the sapwood, but never the core. These properties and high wear resistance determine the scope of iroko - for working surfaces of bar counters and tables in public catering facilities, in the manufacture of furniture, doors, veneer. Iroko is used to make excellent floor coverings - solid board and block parquet. Due to its technical performance, iroko can replace much more expensive teak in many products without losing consumer qualities. Particularly when used outdoors, iroko is exceptionally resistant to all kinds of weather conditions..

The advantage of wood is its relative cheapness compared to teak and greater availability. However, this state of affairs will probably not last long - in recent years, the pace of iroko harvesting has increased so much that it is increasingly classified as endangered and rare breeds. Regarding the technical characteristics, iroko is still inferior to teak, so it is sometimes called “folk teak” - another, already domestic name. The disadvantages include the high allergic activity of wood dust, certain difficulties in processing (stone inclusions).

SUCUPIRA

A tree with such a dubious name in terms of euphony grows in Brazil, where, as we know, there are many wild monkeys. They easily climb up to thirty meters high - this is the height that the sucupira reaches when it reaches maturity. Roughly this happens at the age of one hundred years, but the best wood for harvesting is obtained when the tree turns a quarter of a millennium. "Foresters" identify more than a dozen subspecies of this tree, and linguists have come up with about thirty commercial names for sucupira wood, which make no sense to list.

Mature sucupira produces a cylindrical trunk twenty meters long, free from branches and more than a meter across at the butt. Almost any thing can be made from such a “blank”, but most of the wood goes to the production of parquet riveting, solid and parquet boards. Made from strong and durable wood, this product is excellent. Thanks to the rich colors and rich palette, the products also turn out to be beautiful. A large homogeneous structure, represented by shades from “cocoa with milk” to chestnut and even burgundy, is not afraid of sunlight and does not fade under them. Wood is also resistant to other "damaging factors" of the environment - moisture, fungi, rot, woodworms. For this, it is appreciated by manufacturers and consumers of floor coverings. Natural beauty and unique texture make sucupira flooring desirable for people with good taste and wealth.

Speaking about the characteristics of wood, we note that it is very dense and heavy (which is more of an advantage than a disadvantage for a floor), it is processed rather hard, but it is well sanded and polished. The density of sucupira ranges from 0.85-1.10 g / cm³, and the Brinell hardness is from 4.0 to 4.5. After harvesting, it cannot be rafted down the river (after all, it grows in the Amazon basin), because it sinks in water. When drying, it requires a “delicate” approach, because when the process is accelerated, the sucupira warps. When dried, the color of the heartwood intensifies (sapwood is not taken into account, it is light, thin and not used), the wood “ripens” and darkens. It perfectly accepts treatment with waxes and oils, somewhat worse - with varnishes, glues satisfactorily, holes need to be drilled for nails and screws.

the wood is super-dense, when using sucupira parquet at home, it is necessary to use a humidifier that stabilizes sudden changes in humidity when turning the heating on and off.

At home - in addition to Brazil, it grows in Venezuela, Peru and Colombia - sucupira is used in construction, including structures that have constant contact with water - bridges, piers, etc. The aboriginal population produces souvenirs from it, and in the States and Europe, in addition to parquet and decking, small pieces are used to produce elite cues for billiards, finishing the fretboards of musical instruments, “cool” cases for gadgets - USB drives, cases of mice and mobile phones. The handles of hunting knives are also good. A small amount of wood is used for furniture, but the majority is used for floors. Very beautiful, solid, reliable and durable. Plus, it's exclusive.

What cutting boards are made of, an overview of wood types from GuruVkus

A wooden cutting board in the kitchen is a solid and most often chosen kitchen attribute. Wooden board is eco-friendly, strong and durable. It is convenient to use it, because. wood does not dull the blade of a knife. If the board is massive or equipped with silicone pads, it does not slide on the surface of the countertop. Wooden boards look so stylish that they can serve the finished dish on the table, especially taking into account the variety of forms of boards offered for sale. However, they differ not only in shape and size, but also in the material from which they are made. In order to create a high quality product from wood, it is important to be guided by the hardness indicators of the type of wood used. Hardness is the ability to resist the introduction of a harder body into the wood, it varies not only in different types of wood, but also in different cut directions of the same tree.

Plywood cutting board

:

thin, light, budget. To embellish boring plywood, such boards are painted, painted or varnished, which cannot be called a pragmatic approach - when cutting, paint particles can fall on products if cut on the painted side. Unpainted and unvarnished plywood easily absorbs moisture. With frequent daily use, it will not last long.

beech cutting board :

wood is as hard as oak, the board retains its aesthetic appearance for a long time.

Cutting board

hevea or rubber wood .

Wood is a hardwood with high strength and wear resistance. The natural rubber in the wood structure holds the fibers together and makes it resistant to moisture. A hevea board does not absorb odors, has antibacterial properties, and retains an attractive appearance for a long time.

Chopping board

made of acacia ,

strong and dense wood that does not crack or dry out, is not subject to decay and mold. Depending on the variety, acacia has a unique woody pattern and color shade. When making a cutting board, acacia is often used in combination with the wood of other trees to give a bright and spectacular appearance.

Chopping board

in ash

, a precious wood that even surpasses oak in some characteristics. Ash is difficult to split. The elastic structure and viscosity of wood complicate its manual processing, which makes expensive material even more expensive.

Chopping board

in oak

is the perfect choice. Wood has high density and strength, wear resistance and beautiful appearance. Oak does not crack and does not swell from high humidity, it is practically not subject to rot.

As a rule, not used for the manufacture of boards for cutting and cutting products pine, spruce and other conifers - due to the resin content in the wood and low density, not resistant to decay alder, linden , knotty birch .

Bamboo boards

are very common, although, strictly speaking, bamboo is not wood, but a natural material of plant origin. It is quite easy to process, the material has bactericidal properties, the dense structure of a carefully made board remains smooth for a long time, does not absorb liquids, and does not stain. Bamboo is naturally hollow, so it is impossible to “meet” a board from an array of bamboo, it will certainly be type-setting. Mass production is dominated by cutting boards made of oak, beech and bamboo.

Solid wood cutting board

The cutting board can be made from solid or glued solid wood. In order to make a large wooden classic board (when the product is cut along the grain of the wood), lumber is needed from a large diameter trunk. The material is quite expensive, therefore, in the manufacture of a kitchen board, pieces obtained by processing solid wood are often glued together. The components are selected so that the product looks like it was made from a single piece of wood, or vice versa, they combine bars that contrast in color or pattern.

End board - what is it

Separately, it should be said about the end and type-setting cutting boards. The simplest end board can be made from a log cut, carefully sanded and impregnated with wax. Such products are sold by masters - "Golden Hands", but you remember that not every tree is suitable for cutting products on it.

In the mass market you will find only typesetting boards made of hardwood cubes or rectangles carefully sanded and matched in size and color.


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