How to stabilize a new tree


How to Properly Stake a Newly-Planted Tree | Arbor Experts

Drive around any Dayton neighborhood and you’ll likely see newly planted trees tightly tied to landscape stakes, presumably to help the tree get established without falling over. After all, planting a tree is an investment in the value of your property and you want to ensure that it lives a long and healthy life.

But, contrary to popular belief, staking a newly planted tree is often not necessary. In fact, staking young trees can do more harm than good.

The Problems With Tree Staking

Using stakes to support a new tree can cause several problems, particularly if the support is left in place for more than the first growing season. Staking trees improperly damages the new tree and can lead to stunted growth or death.

We often see the following issues with improperly staked trees:

  • The tree trunk snaps where it’s tied to the stake, usually due to strong winds
  • Roots grow more slowly, lengthening the time it takes the new tree to establish
  • The trunk doesn’t develop proper “taper” (where the thickest part of the trunk is at the base and it tapers to the thinnest part at the top of the tree), resulting in a smaller and weaker tree
  • The material used to tie the tree to the stakes tightens as the tree grows, cutting through the bark and girdling it (essentially, strangling the tree).

Reasons To Stake a Tree

Generally speaking, a properly planted tree will not need staking.

However, there are some situations in which a young tree will benefit from proper staking, such as:

  • Trees with heavy leaf cover and small root balls (the root ball will likely move as the tree canopy moves, making it more difficult to get established roots)
  • Top-heavy bare root trees
  • Young trees planted in windy locations
  • Sandy or wet soil that doesn’t hold the root ball in place
  • Trees with weak or flexible trunks that don’t stay upright without support
  • Trees planted in areas where people are likely to come into contact with them, possibly knocking them over

How to Properly Stake a Tree

Proper staking can protect a newly planted tree when needed. To do it correctly, you’ll need a few items that you probably don’t have lying around the house:

  • 2×2 inch wooden stakes about 5 feet tall (for larger/heavies trees and those planted in windy areas, you may need metal stakes instead)
  • something to pound them into the ground with (like a small sledgehammer), and
  • a wide, smooth strap to tie around the trunk.

Consider how many stakes you’ll need. For a smaller tree in a location that’s not windy, one stake may be enough. Otherwise, use three stakes in a triangle shape with the “point” of the triangle pointing in the direction of the prevailing wind. Drive the stakes about 18 inches into the ground and roughly one and a half feet away from the trunk (outside the root ball but within the planting hole).

To determine where to tie the stakes to the tree, hold it in one hand and rock it gently back and forth. Move your hand up and down until you find the height at which the tree stays upright when moved. This will generally be ½ to 2/3 of the way up the trunk. If you tie the tree at less than 1/2 of its height you’ll end up with a giant lever, with the canopy moving around in the wind and eventually lifting the roots straight up into the air (usually with an explosion of dirt and mulch). If you tie it directly under the lowest branches, the tree is likely to snap off in strong wind.

Tie the tree using a wide, flexible material (like a cloth strap, rubber tubing, or even pantyhose) that is loosely tied. Don’t use wire, nylon cord, or anything else that can bite into the bark. You may have seen people using rope or wire inserted into pieces of garden hose to tie a tree. Don’t do it. The hose will rub the bark away and sooner or later the wire will cut through the hose and into the tree.

Don’t tie the wrap too tightly – the tree should still be able to move slightly; too much movement will rub the bark away, too little will slow tree growth and development. The slight movement will help to generate stronger roots and, in the case of high winds, the tree is less likely to snap off.

While the tree is staked, monitor it regularly for signs of abrasion, girdling, rocking or any other damage.

Remove the stakes at the end of the first growing season to give the tree a chance to stand on its own. If you placed the stakes in spring, remove them in fall; if you staked the tree in fall, remove the stakes the following spring.

Done correctly, staking a tree can minimize damage and help it get established. But before getting out the stakes, determine whether or not the tree really needs the supplemental support – most do not.

Helpful Resources

If you’re planning to plant a tree, check out the following tips:

  • How to Choose the Right Tree – Planting the right tree in the right location will minimize the need for staking
  • How to Properly Plant a Tree – A well-planted tree shouldn’t need to be staked
  • How Much, How Often, and How Best to Water Your Trees – water is vital the first two years

And don’t forget that we offer professional tree planting services. We’ll even help you choose the best tree for your property and will purchase a healthy, well-developed tree from a reputable grower!

How to Stake a Tree the Right Way (So It'll Never Fall Over)

Photo: istockphoto. com

Many new trees do just fine on their own. In fact, the movement they experience from normal wind and weather helps these yard young’uns develop strong root systems and solid trunk girth. But new trees in open areas often require staking early in their lives. “This prevents leaning while the tree is being established,” says Gary Schermerhorn, arborist and a district manager for Davey Trees in King of Prussia, Pa.

Though new trees in protected areas might not need help, there are several scenarios in which it’s beneficial—even necessary—to stake a tree during its first growing season. For example, a new tree planted on a slope or exposed to very strong winds usually requires some temporary stabilization.

Trees must be staked properly or tree staking can backfire and damage a tree. This guide will help your new tree become a truly upstanding citizen!

What You Need to Know Before Staking a Tree

Once you plant or transplant a tree and know it likely needs staking, the next step comes in learning how to brace a tree to help, but not hurt, it. Once it’s staked properly, your tree only needs help for so long, so know when it’s ready to hold its own.

When Does a Tree Require Staking?

Photo: istockphoto.com

Most new trees planted in the open benefit from help to get started. The usual culprit is wind, which can bend the tree and affect its upright growth. In some cases, strong wind might blow a young tree right out of the ground or break its main trunk. New trees establishing roots in sandy soil are more likely to need staking.

Bare-root trees typically need staking as their root balls grow, and a new tree that does not stand up well on its own or begins to lean after planting needs proper staking. Top-heavy trees with a dense crown of leaves, tall trees with small root balls, and those exposed to foot traffic (near a sidewalk, for example) often need staking.

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Some trees are more susceptible to wind damage, and a few tree types almost always need staking; these include eucalyptus trees, acacias, and mesquite hybrids, among others. When in doubt, stake a new tree, but only properly and for no more than a year.

How Long Should a Tree be Staked?

It usually takes a full growing season for a tree to grow sturdy roots. So, if you plant and stake a tree in spring, remove the stake in fall, and vice versa. The tree needs a little time to stand on its own instead of becoming dependent on the tree stakes and ties. Some movement from wind helps the tree develop a strong structure.

So, avoid staking a tree and forgetting about it. “If any material is used to wrap around the trunk of a tree, it should be removed after one year,” says Schermerhorn. Wires, in particular, can girdle and damage a trunk. Staking a tree too long actually can lead to poor trunk growth and a smaller diameter.

Photo: istockphoto.com

How To Stake a Tree Using Tree Stakes and Staking Straps

Tree stakes and straps can support a young or leaning tree, and you can find good quality tree support straps or make your own. Just be sure to take the time to do it right when you stake a tree.

Tools & Materials
  • Tree stakes (2)
  • Sledgehammer
  • Tree staking straps (2)

STEP 1: Get the goods.

You’ll need two tree stakes at least, and up to four stakes, plus tree-staking straps to tie them to the trunk. To DIY your own stakes, taper the points of 6- to 8-foot long, 2×2 pieces of lumber. Or you can purchase stakes, made of treated wooden posts, and nylon or rubber ties online, from big box home improvement stores, or from local nurseries.

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Many DIYers use a rope or wire covered with a piece of rubber hose for a flexible and soft wrap on tree trunks. But the best bet is tree support straps, which are designed specifically for staking trees. “Broad, strong strapping, such as ArborTie, works fine,” says Schermerhorn. Avoid using wire or ropes that can rub and cut into the trunk. Larger trees might need ground anchors, steel cable, and lag hooks, Schermerhorn adds.

STEP 2: Drive the tree stakes.

Place each stake on opposite sides of the tree, about 15 to 18 inches away from the trunk, ensuring they will clear the root ball. Drive each stake into the ground with a sledgehammer, about 18 inches deep, but with enough height above the ground level to where you will tie the tree support straps.

STEP 3: Pick the right spot.

In general, to anchor small trees exposed to high winds or on slopes, place the straps about 18 inches above the ground. In the case of a tree with a flimsy trunk that can’t support itself, place the straps about 6 inches above the spot where the tree can stand upright.

STEP 4: Support the trunk.

Tie the tree to each stake with flat tree-staking straps, so that they are taut but not so tight that the tree cannot move. You want to let the tree sway a bit in the wind, which encourages strong root development.

Flat straps provide a large surface area to distribute pressure and avoid damage to the trunk. Be especially cautious if using homemade wire-in-hose straps: Stretch them too tight and they’ll injure the sensitive tissues just under the bark, essential for taking up water and nutrients.

STEP 5: Untie in a timely manner.

Remember, you should only stake a young tree for one growing season, until the root system has had a chance to spread out and set in. After removing the straps, you can leave the stakes in the ground as protection from foot traffic and lawn equipment if they don’t pose a hazard.

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If you choose to remove the stakes, dig gently around the base of each one to loosen it, being careful not to disturb the roots. Keep your straps and stakes if they are still in good condition to be used for the next tree you plant that requires staking.

With good care and a little luck, your new trees should bring joy to your family and beauty to your property for generations.

Photo: istockphoto.com

Tips for Staking Trees in Windy Areas

Wind actually helps trees, but sometimes too much of a good thing requires supporting a young or leaning tree.

  • When staking the tree, support it, but don’t pull the ties too tightly. The tree needs some flexibility and movement to grow strong.
  • It is best to use at least two stakes. In high-wind areas, place them perpendicular to the prevailing wind.
  • Place the ties or straps around the tree trunk so they are no higher than ⅔ of the tree’s height.
  • Large evergreen trees have higher wind resistance, and the support is designed to prevent tipping over in strong winds.

FAQ About How to Stake a Tree

Should I stake a leaning tree?

Causes of leaning trees vary, and might affect whether staking will help. Staking a young tree after planting can help prevent leaning caused by wind. Weather events can damage trees. A tree also might lean because the root ball shifted in the ground, which might involve some underground intervention. Try to determine when your tree started leaning and whether it is exposed to wind, then stake properly and temporarily.

How do you stake tall, skinny trees?

The trick to helping stabilize a tree that is top heavy or very tall and thin is to protect the trunk while helping to keep the root ball steady underground. Use of three stakes gives the skinny tree the most support, as long as each strap or guide wire is not too tight or too loose and that you properly protect the trunk from rubbing or girdling. Wrap them around the tree about 6 inches above the spot where the tree can stand upright.

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How do you stake a tree for wind?

Remember that some sway or movement gives the new tree a workout. Avoid tightening the straps or wires so tight that the tree can’t budge. A strong wind might cause the trunk to snap where the guides attach. Make sure the ties are flexible but tight enough to keep the tree from blowing over completely. Place the stakes perpendicular to the prevailing wind.

Can you straighten a bent tree trunk?

You can gently straighten the trunk of a tree that leans so badly that it affects the tree’s growth. If possible, use guy wires and wooden or metal stakes to brace the tree, driving stakes deep enough to hold, but making sure they are tall enough to wrap the ties or guides a little more than halfway up the trunk. Have a helper push the trunk upright carefully before tightening the straps. Leave the stakes in place for a year before checking to see if the tree is standing tall.

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how to stabilize wood with and without a vacuum chamber, how to stabilize wood with epoxy resin

Wood is a material that can be used to make furniture and dishes, as well as works of art. However, the tree also has a significant drawback: it ages and after a certain time begins to take on a corresponding look. However, there are ways to make wood durable. It is possible to completely stabilize the wood, and not just keep it on the surface. In this guide, you will learn how it works.

  • 1 Why is wood stabilized?
  • 2 What is the purpose of stabilized wood?
  • 3 Stabilization of various types of wood
  • 4 Use of thermosetting resin to stabilize wood
  • 5 Stabilize wood with epoxy.
  • 6 Strengthening wooden surfaces with wood hardener
  • 7 Vacuum chamber for wood stabilization
  • 8 Instructions: Stabilize wood with thermosetting resin.
    • 8.1 Preparation
    • 8.2 Loading the vacuum chamber
    • 8.3 Baking / hardening
    • 8.4 Tips and Tricks
  • 9 questions and answers
    • 9.1 Which colored materials are suitable for staining?
    • 9.2 How high can the residual moisture of the wood be that needs to be stabilized?

Why stabilize wood?

Because of their hardness, many woods can be used to make a variety of items such as art, knife handles and various everyday items. Thanks to the tree, the products look noble and of high quality.

On the other hand, some woods are too soft to be damaged during processing. Even when processed, they are not hard enough and eventually lose their grip and strength.

The natural aging process can be counteracted by stabilizing the wood. For example, a vacuum chamber and extra thin MMA (transparent thermoplastic plastic) are suitable for this. Wood can also be stabilized with epoxy.

Creating a vacuum removes air from the pores of the wood. The space thus obtained is filled with a stabilizing medium using excess pressure. In order for the stabilizing medium to be distributed as best as possible, it must be ensured that only the lowest possible residual moisture is present. Failure to comply with this rule may result in insufficient stabilization.

Stabilization creates a hybrid material that has the characteristics of both wood and a stabilizing medium. The wood has become more resilient and has a stronger structure. It is resistant to weather conditions, temperature extremes, acids, solvents and many other chemicals. In addition, high humidity or strong sunlight no longer leads to a significant deterioration in the quality of the material.

The wood prepared in this way has a strong texture. Often they are painted by the artist so that they look especially attractive. Mechanical processing is possible, but the wood must not be exposed to excessive temperatures. The surface of the treated wood starts to smudge at around 120°C, which means that it no longer looks as beautiful.

If MMA (liquid plexiglass) has been used to stabilize the wood, it is non-toxic to both humans and animals. A little more care should be taken with thermosetting resin (eg cactus sap). But after hardening, this is also not harmful to health. We will consider this material in more detail below. By the way, it is possible to stabilize not only wood, but also horn and bone material.

What is the purpose of stabilized wood?

Stabilized wood is suitable for a variety of uses, such as knife handles. A classic use of stabilized wood is as a pen blank. In general, any suitable piece of wood can be stabilized, including wood items such as utensils, cutting boards, trays, and other everyday items. Stabilized wood products are unique products that have been made with relatively great effort. This is also noticeable in terms of price.

Stabilizing different types of wood

There are many different types of wood, not all of which are suitable for stabilizing. As a rule, wood species with large pores and low density are well stabilized. Due to its large pores, bush-hammered wood can absorb a particularly large amount of stabilizing medium, which gives it an exceptionally beautiful structure, especially after polishing. Examples of this:

  • poplar
  • beech
  • birch

Treated wood is particularly strong and durable, and thanks to the addition of dyes, it looks even more unique.

However, there are also wood species that are only partially or not at all suitable for stabilization. These include, for example:

  • olive tree
  • Ebony
  • Rosewood
  • Conifers
This wood has particularly oily and resinous components, very small pores and high density. These properties, as well as other factors such as the presence of tannins, lead to a significant deterioration in the absorption of the stabilizing resin. The stabilizing medium cannot completely saturate the wood, which means that the curing process cannot proceed optimally.

Using thermosetting resin to stabilize wood

One of the advantages of thermosetting resin is that it completely penetrates into the wood being treated and thus ensures optimal stabilization. The resin is not only injected into the wood during the stabilization process, but also hardened with the help of heat. Thus, the resin not only remains on the surface, but is completely impregnated inside.

You mix the resin before using it. When it is baked in the oven, it acquires the final stability and firmness. Resin stains well. However, we recommend choosing a dye from the same manufacturer whenever possible so that you do not end up with unpleasant surprises.

Especially when using thermally hardened wood, it is important that the residual moisture content is as low as possible. Even if the wood has been stored for a long time, it is possible that the residual moisture is still too high for the stabilization process. To keep the wood dry enough, you can dry it in an oven at 104°C for 24 hours.

Stabilize wood with epoxy.

For many applications it is sufficient to stabilize and repair wood with epoxy. However, in the case of load-bearing parts of buildings, you should always consult with a structural engineer to ensure that the wood has been properly stabilized. In addition to many advantages, epoxy has a disadvantage: it only stabilizes the wood on the surface and does not penetrate deep into the wood. The wood becomes slightly stronger, but does not regain its original hardness.

The ideal temperature for working with epoxy is between 15°C and 25°C. Epoxy is made up of two components: the resin itself and the hardener. When these two components are mixed together, a reaction occurs and the mixture solidifies. When applying resin to wood, make sure the wood is dry and free of dust and dirt. Therefore, crumbling wood should first be carefully removed and then cleaned.

It is recommended to add a reactive thinner to the resin as this ensures that the wood can optimally absorb the epoxy. Reactive thinner makes the resin more fluid. In addition, you can improve the absorbency of wood with tiny holes.

When working with epoxy, the necessary safety precautions must always be observed. This includes wearing gloves and long sleeves. In addition, your workplace should always be well ventilated.

Strengthening wooden surfaces with wood hardener.

Wood Hardener is also suitable for repairing porous areas in wood. Like epoxy, wood hardener has the disadvantage that it does not completely penetrate the wood, but only remains on the surface.

  • Thanks to the deep-penetrating mortar, wood can be stabilized from the inside.
  • Can be used indoors or outdoors
  • All wood can be stabilized and provides protection against environmental influences.

The advantage is that the wood hardener can be used both indoors and outdoors, effectively preventing future damage. Wood hardener is usually clear, so the wood retains its color but feels fresher. It is easy to use and therefore ideal for inexperienced craftsmen.

Instructions: Stabilize wood with thermoset resin.

Thermoset resin, as the name suggests, cures with heat, so you'll need an oven to use it. However, care must be taken not to set the temperature above 95°C. Higher temperatures cause more resin to flow out of the wood, meaning that the resin does not harden sufficiently and therefore the wood is not sufficiently stabilized.

It is important that the residual moisture in the wood is as low as possible. Ideally, it should be less than five percent. Therefore, only use wood that has been stored for a long time. Before starting the stabilization process, you can also let the wood dry in an oven for 24 hours at 104°C.

  • Vacuum chamber with necessary accessories (vacuum gauge, valves, appropriate hose)
  • Dry wood, ideally with a maximum residual moisture content of five percent
  • Protective equipment: protective gloves, apron, goggles, heat resistant gloves.
  • Common household aluminum foil
  • Stabilizing resin, in our case thermosetting resin.
  • Oven (constant temperature 71-93°C)
  • High quality oven thermometer that allows you to determine the temperature with maximum accuracy.
  • Colorant
  • Aluminum foil is used in the heating process during the stabilization process. The negative pressure that can be created with a vacuum pump should be 30 mmHg. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, you can remove the hot pieces after they are baked. The oven you use for stabilization should only be used for this. If you then use it in food, it can have harmful effects.

    The advantage of using thermosetting resin is that all necessary utensils can be easily cleaned with warm soapy water. On the other hand, when using a long curing resin, a solvent is required.
    preparation

    Before starting the stabilization process, check the equipment for damage and contamination. This is important because dirt deposits can significantly degrade stabilization. Checking for damage is very important, especially with regard to the vacuum chamber, which is an important safety factor.

    Put all your work supplies in a strong, safe and heat-resistant place where you can work easily. Protective equipment (safety gloves, goggles, long-sleeved clothing and an apron) should always be worn when working. If the resin comes into contact with your skin or mucous membranes, wash the affected areas thoroughly with warm soapy water and consult a doctor. Once you have all the materials you need on hand, you can load the vacuum chamber.

    Loading the vacuum chamber

    You can now place the stabilization blanks in the vacuum chamber. Ensure that the stabilizing medium can reach the workpieces from all sides. To do this, make sure that the workpieces are at a sufficiently large distance from each other. To prevent the workpieces from floating up during the stabilization process, they should be weighted. For this, coarse mesh, which you weight with weights, or an anti-floating mat, which you screw to the wall of the vacuum container, is suitable.

    You can then pour the resin so that the blanks are always covered with the stabilizing medium. Keep in mind that the blanks will absorb resin during stabilization and that you will add enough resin to the vacuum chamber. The resin should cover workpieces up to 15 mm high. Now close the chamber so that the evacuation process can begin. The air contained in the blanks escapes, and the stabilizing medium begins to boil. Make sure the resin does not foam or drip.

    If you are not sure about this, you can let the air out slowly and gradually at first. If the foam is too strong, it is better to wait a few minutes between the individual pumping steps to allow the foam to dissolve again. As soon as the resin stops foaming and bubbles no longer form on the surface, the air completely escapes and the workpieces are completely saturated with resin.

    Once this is done, the process is over. This process usually takes about an hour, but in some cases longer. Now you can turn off the vacuum chamber, but leave the blanks in it for a while. Make sure the vacuum chamber valve is closed before shutting down. In addition, the vacuum chamber should not be opened too quickly, but care should be taken when ventilating it.

    Baking / hardening

    After vacuuming is complete, take out the blanks and let them drain well. You can then pat it dry thoroughly with a paper towel. In order for you to continue using the resin, you should pour it into an airtight container. Store in a dry, dark place at a temperature not exceeding 20 ° C. The resin can be stored for a long time.

    In the future, we will also show you how you can save resin. Now wash all work utensils that have come into contact with the resin with warm soapy water. You can use the heating time of the workpieces, which is from 60 to 90 minutes. Then you wrap each blank with a piece of aluminum foil.

    Be sure to wrap the pieces tightly with aluminum foil. The matte side of the aluminum foil should be facing outward and the shiny side should be tight against the workpiece. Then preheat the oven to 71-93°C. You can accurately measure the temperature with an oven thermometer.

    Once the required temperature has been reached, you place the blanks in the oven and leave them there for 60–90 minutes. After this time, you can use protective gloves to remove the pieces from the oven and remove the aluminum foil. If the film is difficult to remove, you can use a knife or other sharp object.

    Secrets and tricks
    • A part of the stabilizing resin usually comes out after firing. This is completely normal. However, if a large amount of resin has escaped, it is probably because there is too much residual moisture in the wood. Therefore, you should always make sure that the wood you want to stabilize is well dried.
    • Pump down pressure must be 30 mmHg. The deeper the vacuum is applied, the deeper the resin penetrates the wood and the stronger and more durable the wood becomes.
    • Once stabilized, the wood becomes much heavier than before. You should pay special attention to this if you want to use wood to make, for example, a knife handle, because a knife that is too heavy is no longer so comfortable to use.
    • You can save the stabilizing environment by making a cavity out of a plastic bucket and an old metal salad bowl. To do this, you simply cut a ring out of a plastic bucket and glue it into the cavity of the salad bowl. He has to survive a little. You seal the ring well. Place this vessel completely in the vacuum chamber and place the piece of wood to be stabilized into it. Now you fill the vessel with resin and then use the vacuum chamber as usual. This way you need much less resin and eliminate the need to carry the rest of the resin.

    FAQ

    Which color media is suitable for coloring?

    Special colored products are available for coloring wood. If you are using resin from a specific manufacturer, it makes sense to use other ingredients from the same manufacturer. Thus, both the color medium and the stabilizing medium should be from the same company, if possible.

    How high is the residual moisture content of the wood that needs to be stabilized?

    The residual moisture content of the wood must not exceed 5 percent. The following applies: the drier the wood, the more effective the stabilization. To keep the wood dry enough, you can let it dry in an oven for 24 hours at 104°C.

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    Pomeranian wood stabilization recipe | Journal of the Masters Fair

    Andrey Khramov

    A carpenter has three problems: wood, hands, equipment. Even if there is enough experience and all the tools are there, bad (unprepared) wood will nullify all efforts.

    If the tree is not stabilized, it may:

    a) dry out;

    b) warp;

    In soft varieties (pine, linden, aspen) this is not so critical. Because products made from this wood are not "responsible". They do not make structural elements. Of course, a cracked spoon or a linden window trim will spoil the mood. However, such wood is rarely used for critical products, such as a kitchen front or an armchair. Therefore, the question of the predictability of wood in the finished product is very important for carpenters.

    To eliminate the problems of warping and cracking, there are methods to stabilize the wood. There are simple and complex, high-tech. When I went to the page of the Federal Institute of Industrial Property (FIPS), I was surprised by the number of these very methods. From the use of concentrated acids, to insane pressure and temperatures.

    It is useless at home.

    The answer was found in the past. Solovetsky Monastery. Centuries have passed, and some elements of the buildings do not seem to be affected by time. Roofing, decorative details, steps - it seems to violate the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe durability of wood.

    The secret is simple - salt. Let me remind you that the very name of the islands and the monastery was born from salt. Solo Vedas.

    A bucket and hot plate is all you need to get started.

    And a tablespoon of salt (about 10 grams) per 1 liter of water.

    There are different opinions about salt concentration. And as strange as it may sound, I am inclined to the anthropic principle of being. What a person has is the truth. Salt concentration in human blood does not exceed 0.9%.

    Cook for about 2 hours. The criterion is foam. As soon as its active selection has stopped, then the tree is ready.

    Next, the blanks need to be dried. Preferably at room temperature. I put on top of the "fire" of the stove, and after 2-3 days I get stabilized wood. By the way, I dried my first cherry in a natural way for 2 years (!?).

    As you can see from the last photo, the visually stabilized and normal wood are slightly different. I specially “cooked” the cherry piece of wood in half.

    Workpiece edge not machined for clarity. The right side, which was in the brine, became darker. I cleaned and polished the plate.

    There is a darkening of the wood and the alignment of color shades. Unfortunately, the photo does not show the appearance of "pearl" wood. For me, this was a pleasant surprise.

    This is external.
    I didn't really understand what was going on inside. Offhand. Wood is a mixture of cellulose, lignin and ether-containing components.

    In conifers, the last component is oleoresin, what turpentine, rosin, etc. are made of. And, for example, in grenadilla this oil has a very specific smell and taste. Some gourmets add ebony sawdust to tea. I tried. The taste is similar to Chinese black pu-erh.

    So, you can understand why after cooking the wood “releases” if you imagine cellulose as reinforcement, and lignin as concrete. Temperature partially destroys the bond between reinforcement and concrete, and "reinforced concrete" becomes more ductile. Relieve internal stress. Salt plays an important role in this case. It raises the boiling point of the solution just above 100 degrees, which is quite enough to destroy the cell membranes of wood.

    So, Pomors boiled wood in salt for:

    1) removing warping and eliminating the appearance of cracks during and after drying;

    2) multiple (as opposed to natural) acceleration of drying itself;

    3) acquisition of antiseptic properties by wood;

    4) durability.


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