How to take care of a rose tree
Caring for Roses: A Beginner’s Rose Growing Guide
Ten essential steps for ensuring beautiful blooms year after year By Anne Balogh; last updated 9/2/20
Oso Easy Double Red™. Photo by: Proven Winners.
Rose care is easier than you think—anyone can grow them successfully. Plant your roses in a sunny location with good drainage. Fertilize them regularly for impressive flowers. Water them evenly to keep the soil moist. Prune established rose bushes in early spring. Watch for diseases like powdery mildew or black spot.
If you’ve been afraid to start a rose garden, the truth is, roses are no more difficult to care for than other flowering shrubs. Follow these ten essential rules to learn how to grow roses:
1. Start with the roots
You can purchase roses already potted in soil or as dormant bare-root plants. Each type has its benefits:
- Container roses: Container roses are a great for novice gardeners because they’re easy to plant and establish quickly. They can also be purchased at local nurseries throughout the growing season. This allows you to plant them when climate conditions are ideal— preferably a cool and cloudy day.
- Bare-root roses: One of the advantages of bare-root roses is the greater selection of varieties available. Plus, they are economical and can be ordered online. However, unlike container roses, bare-root plants need to have their roots soaked overnight in water before planting. Also, the roots should be kept moist for the first few months after planting.
Bare-root roses, which arrive dormant, offer the widest selection of varieties, but also require more TLC in the months after planting. Photo by: Michael Vi / Shutterstock.
2. Choose your roses wisely
There are numerous classes of roses, ranging from micro-miniatures to grandifloras, and from groundcovers to climbing roses, with some classes containing hundreds of varieties. While it may be tempting to fill your rose garden with a wide assortment, you are likely to end up with a disorderly array and too many plants for the space. A few well-chosen varieties will give you more satisfaction than dozens of mismatched plants that don’t work in harmony.
If you want lower-maintenance roses, try shrub or landscape roses, like the Oso Easy line, for a more care-free rose garden.
See The Best Types of Roses for Your Garden and get tips for choosing the perfect rose for your garden.
Limiting the number of rose varieties you grow will help you avoid creating a disorderly and mismatched array. Oso Easy Hot Paprika® landscape rose. Photo by: Proven Winners.
3. Find the right site
For the best show of flowers and the healthiest plants, rose bushes should receive six to eight hours of sunlight daily. They should also be planted in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. In especially hot climates, roses do best when they are protected from the hot afternoon sun. In cold climates, planting a rose bush next to a south- or west-facing fence or wall can help minimize winter freeze damage.
4. Get the timing right
Roses are best planted in the spring (after the last frost) or in fall (at least six weeks before your average first frost). Planting early enough in fall gives the roots enough time to get established before the plants go dormant over the winter.
Bare-root roses are typically available only in early spring and should be planted soon after you bring them home. Roses purchased in containers give you more flexibility in planting time.
5. Plant properly
Planting your bare-root or container roses properly will ensure they get off to a good start.
- The planting hole needs to be deep enough and wide enough to accommodate the plant’s roots. The area needs to have good drainage, since roses don’t like wet feet.
- Mix a generous amount of garden compost, peat moss, or other organic matter with the soil that was removed from the planting hole. Use some of this mixture at the bottom of the planting hole and place the rose bush in the hole.
- The plant’s crown should be at ground level in mild climates, and 2 to 3 inches below ground level for cold climates.
- Fill the hole partially with the soil mixture and add a slow-release fertilizer.
- Water thoroughly, and then finish filling the hole with the remaining soil.
- Water again, then mound loose soil around the canes to protect the rose while it acclimates to its new site.
- If you’re planting several rose bushes together, space them at least 3 feet apart to allow ample growing room as they mature.
When planting roses, dig a deep, wide hole that allows for proper drainage and leaves room for root growth. Photo by: wavebreakmedia / Shutterstock.
6. Fertilize regularly
For an impressive show of flowers, a rose bush needs to be fertilized regularly. Organic methods provide a slow, steady supply of nutrients. Monthly applications of compost, composted manure, and other organic and natural fertilizers, such as this organic fish emulsion, work well. Organic amendments also help to encourage beneficial soil microbes and a well-balanced soil pH.
Slow-release fertilizers, like Jobe's Organic Fertilizer Spikes, supply the right balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other minor nutrients. They also give rose bushes the nourishment they need for optimum growth.
For newly planted bare-root plants: Apply organic amendments to the soil at planting time. Wait until after the plant produces its first blooms to apply full-strength fertilizers so you don’t burn the new roots.
Learn more in our Guide to Fertilizing Roses.
7. Water wisely
Soil should be kept evenly moist throughout the growing season. The amount and frequency of watering will depend on your soil type and climate. Roses do best with the equivalent of 1” of rainfall per week during the growing season. Roses growing in sandy soils will need more watering than those in heavier clay soils. Hot, dry, and windy conditions will also parch roses quickly.
How you water is as important as the frequency. To keep roses healthy, avoid wetting the foliage. Use a soaker hose, watering can with a long spout, or a watering wand pointed directly at the soil.
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8. Prune like a pro
It’s almost impossible to kill a rose bush by overpruning. But, if you follow a few simple rules, the results will look more professional and result in a healthier plant. Many newer rose varieties don’t require much —if any—pruning. A good pair of bypass pruners (not anvil style) and rose pruning gloves can make the job even easier.
Major pruning should be done in early spring. For all roses, start by removing any dead or damaged canes (any that look brown). For specimens that require a hard pruning, cut back a third to a half of the previous year’s growth until you find healthy, white centers inside the cane.
You can lightly prune your roses all season long to keep them well-groomed.
Some varieties of reblooming roses will require deadheading to encourage reblooming throughout the season. Cut spent blooms back to the first five-leaflet stem to promote regrowth.
If your rose bushes are “self-cleaning” (which means they don’t develop rose hips), no deadheading is needed. Blooms will drop off automatically and the plants will keep on producing more flowers.
For step-by-step pruning instructions, see Pruning Roses.
9. Keep them healthy
The best way to prevent rose diseases is to choose disease-resistant varieties. These roses are bred and selected to resist the most common rose afflictions, including powdery mildew and black spot.
Powdery mildew typically appears during the summer, especially when the days are hot and dry and the nights are cool and wet. The tell-tale signs include leaves that curl and twist and the development of a white, powdery down on the leaves. To avoid powdery mildew, water plants at ground level in the morning, since wet leaves (especially overnight) provide the perfect growing environment. Pruning a rose bush to allow air to circulate through the foliage also helps prevent this powdery growth.
This rose bush has been damaged by powdery mildew. Photo by: Amelia Martin / Shutterstock.
Black spot is a waterborne fungal disease. It appears as circular black or brown spots on the top side of leaves. It starts toward the bottom of a bush and works its way up, eventually causing defoliation. Prevent this disease the same way you prevent powdery mildew: by improving air circulation around and through the plant, and watering at ground level. A simple mixture of baking soda and horticultural oil can help fight the spread of black spot. You can also use an organic 3-in-1 fungicide. (Also see: Rose Woes: Black Spot).
Pesky insects that like to feed on rose bushes include aphids, Japanese beetles, spider mites, and sawflies. Most of these pests can be controlled with neem oil or insecticidal soap. In the case of aphids, a blast of water from a hose in the morning is often the only treatment necessary. Companion planting with alliums can also help repel aphids.
Photo by: Jan J. Photography / Shutterstock.
10. Show them off
Roses have long been prized for their beautiful and fragrant cut flowers. But, no roses are lovelier than those gathered fresh from your own garden. Here are a few tips for preserving your cut roses:
- Roses will last the longest when they are cut immediately after the bud stage, when the petals are starting to open.
- Use hand pruners or garden scissors with sharp blades to cut the stems without damaging their water uptake channels.
- Cut roses when they are dewy fresh and hydrated (in morning or evening), not when the plant may be stressed from heat.
- Recut the rose stems right before putting them in a vase. This helps eliminate air bubbles that prevent them from taking up water. Also, cut the stems at a 45-degree angle so they don’t rest flat on the bottom of the vase.
- Strip off any lower leaves that fall below the water line to avoid rot and bacterial growth. Above the water line, leave as much foliage as possible, which will help to draw up water.
- Change the water frequently—daily if possible—to remove any bacteria. Also recut the flower stems every few days to improve water absorption.
Pruning Roses: 8 Steps
The 12 Best Roses for Your Garden
Easy Shrub Roses You Can Grow
Getting Rid of Japanese Beetles
How to Get Rid of Black Spot on Roses
How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew
OTHER FLOWERS YOU'LL LOVE
Tips for Growing Tree Roses
I think tree roses can have one of the biggest impacts on a floral garden. They stand out among the other plants because of their unique shape combined with their colorful blossoms.
They’re also a challenge to grow. They need regular pruning, staking, and special care to keep them looking their best.
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And as impressive as they can be when well cared for, there’s nothing that detracts from a garden display more readily than a sad, tilted, misshapen specimen.
This guide will help you make your tree rose into the crown jewel of your garden, rather than an eyesore.
Here’s what you’ll learn in the upcoming guide:
What You’ll Learn
- What Is a Tree Rose?
- Winter Care
- Recommended Types
- Best Uses
No doubt you’re excited to jump in, so let’s go!
What Is a Tree Rose?
Tree roses, or standards, are roses that have been trained or grafted to have a long main stem with a bushy crown of peduncles, foliage, and blossoms.
They resemble tiny little trees, which is where the name comes from, of course.
But botanically speaking, they aren’t trees. They’re just bushes trained into a shape they wouldn’t grow in naturally. They can range in height from a foot or two tall to up to eight feet. Smaller plants are often called patio tree roses.
They first became popular in the West in the 1800s.
To establish its tree shape, growers take a dormant rootstock and graft it onto a dormant stem. Then, they graft the desired top plant (scion), which is also dormant, onto the top of the stem.
The rootstock and stem can be different species or types, but they are often the same. The scion is almost always a different type than the rootstock and stem.
Tree roses aren’t all from a certain category or species, but rather, this is just a description of their form. Any Rosa type can be made into a tree, but some lend themselves better to the process than others.
‘Dr. Huey’ is one of the most common rootstocks, but ‘Manetti,’ dog roses (R. canina), wild species types, or a hardy R. multiflora are also commonly used.
Stems are usually taken from multiflora or R. canina.
The tops are often hybrid tea, grandiflora, or floribundas, but you may see others. Not sure what the difference is between all these categories? You might want to read our guide to rose classification for a quick primer.
What makes ‘Dr. Huey’ so special? I’m sure you’re wondering. Well, ‘Dr. Huey’ is a hybrid wichurana climber or rambler that has incredibly robust roots. That means a sturdier base and quick growth for tree rose breeders.
We’ll talk about the downsides to this particular plant in just a minute.
Tree roses can be trimmed into tidy topiary shapes or left to be a bit more natural. I’ve seen topiary types trained to have one main head, known as a standard, or three balls tiered along the stem, sometimes called a ball trio.
They can also have a weeping or semi-weeping form. These typically use climbing or groundcover types as the scion.
If you are buying a tree rose, rather than pruning one yourself, it is almost always in standard form.
When commercial growers make standards, the process usually takes about five years from start to finish before the plants hit the market.
For the first two years, the roots, stems, and scion are typically grown separately. Then, in the spring or summer of the third year, the plant is grafted together. Many growers bud two scions onto the stem to create a bushier, fuller top.
The plant is grown for another year before being dug up while dormant, and sold as a bare root plant, or potted and sent to market.
When it comes to planting, watering, and fertilizing, you can basically treat standards as you would any shrub rose.
When choosing a growing spot, plant them where they won’t be hit with frequent or heavy winds. They’ll blow over easily or they might even break.
Plant at the same depth they were growing in the container. For bare roots, plant them with the lower bud union positioned just above the soil except in Zones 7 or below, where you should sink the bud union an inch or two below the soil.
You can learn more about how to plant bare root roses in our guide.
After planting, there are a few things you’ll need to do to keep your plant happy.
For plants with heavy heads or those that are weeping, keep the head pruned back by half in the winter for the first few years to encourage the stem to grow. After they finish blooming, prune them back slightly.
You also must stake standards if you want them to stay upright. No exceptions. Sink a piece of rebar or metal pipe at least a foot into the ground next to the standard and extend it at least a few inches above the top graft union, ideally into the bushy head. If you don’t do this, your plant WILL tilt or fall over.
You can slide a bit of green garden hose over the metal to camouflage it a bit and to provide the bark with some protection against the metal.
Secure the stake to the stem using a flexible material. If you wear nylons, they’re perfect to cut up and used as a fastener. You can also buy nylon or rubber ties, or use leather. Check the straps frequently for signs of deterioration, breaking, or constriction around the stem.
You’ll see that some people recommend bamboo or plastic stakes.
I’m here to say: don’t do it! You need something extremely solid and sturdy like metal or a thick piece of hardwood. Wood stakes will need to be replaced every few years, though treated wood can last a bit longer.
As your tree grows, you might need to increase the height of the stake.
Now that I’ve drilled the importance of staking into your head, there is one exception worth mentioning. If you have selected plants that stay under a few feet tall when mature and have wild rose scions, you have the option of removing the stake after a few years.
Just keep an eye on them and be ready to replace the stake if things start to look a little tipsy. You may want to provide some winter support if you receive heavy snow, or at least gently shake off the snow after it lands.
One of your biggest jobs is going to be pruning. Not only do you need to maintain the shape of the plant, but you also have to keep an eye out for suckers.
If your rose was grafted onto ‘Dr. Huey’ roots, you’ll need to be even more diligent. Commercial growers love ‘Dr. Huey’ because the roots grow so fast and healthily, but aggressive roots come at a price down the road.
It has become a bit of a running competition between me and my fellow gardeners to see how many of the dark red ‘Dr. Huey’ flowers we can spot out in the world.
They’re everywhere! No doubt, a majority of them started out as grafted or tree roses before that strong rootstock just took over.
To prevent this from happening, cut or tear any suckers that appear below the top graft union as soon as you see them. I prefer to gently tear the suckers off because this will take a bit of the base with it, and makes re-emergence less likely.
If suckers come out of the ground, scrape away the soil and trim or rip each sucker out at the base. Then refill the soil and tamp it down.
Pruning technique depends on the look you’re going for. If you want to maintain a compact, topiary shape, trim for shape in the late winter before shoots emerge.
Then, maintain the shape during the summer through deadheading and by removing any branches that are extremely long. Don’t do any major pruning in the summer.
You can learn more about how to prune roses in our guide.
Otherwise, if you want a more natural shape, prune it as you would a shrub rose. That means removing any dead, weak, or diseased canes as you see them.
In the late winter, remove about a third of the length (depending on the type) and any canes that are crossing or rubbing.
During the winter, standards need a little extra protection. You can heap pine boughs around the stems, or wrap the top and stem in burlap. If you live in a particularly cold zone, do both.
In colder zones, such as Zone 6 and below, you might want to prune the head back by half to reduce the chance of frost damage or breakage under the weight of heavy snow accumulation.
If you garden somewhere that reaches below 0°F in the winter and you’re determined to grow a tree rose, either plant in a container so you can move it indoors, or dig up the plant each winter.
Bury the whole thing in a trench a foot deep, and cover the trench with mulch or pine boughs.
Learn more about how to winterize roses in our guide.
Tending these types takes commitment. There’s pruning, staking, winter protection, and other types of care. Don’t plant one unless you’re ready for the work.
That said, if you want a standard that is a little less delicate and high maintenance, there are some excellent options out there.
I’ve always had the best luck with standards that have a wild rose scion. Wild rose flowers are smaller so they are less heavy than a hybrid tea or floribunda. Sometimes the larger, heavier flowers can cause the stem to tilt, fall over, or break.
On the other hand, there’s no denying that a big, bountiful floribunda makes a much more striking statement in the garden.
Here are some varieties that are known to be sturdier and healthier than others.
If you’re looking for a weeping tree, ‘Renae’ is an excellent option. It’s hardy, thornless, fragrant, and has graceful weeping branches topped with small, semi-double, light pink blossoms.‘Silver Jubilee’
‘Silver Jubilee’ has large, full, double blossoms that are highly fragrant.
‘Blessings’ is a hybrid tea with salmon pink flowers that are large and repeat flowering.‘Blessings’
‘Olivia Rose Austin’ is pest and disease-resistant, with stunning cupped, pink, double flowers.‘Olivia Rose Austin’
Knock Out®, a series known for their easy-care plants, has standards in red, pink, and yellow.Knock Out®
Remember how tree roses are made through the process of grafting? ‘Polar Joy’ is an exception. This plant is “own root,” which means it isn’t grafted. It is trained into a tree shape rather than grafted.
It was also bred to be exceptionally winter hardy and disease resistant. Because it is own root, you don’t have to worry about suckers.
The blossoms are small and pink with subtle yellow centers.
Nature Hills Nursery carries this incredible type so you can add it to your garden.
Because they are tall and have a distinct shape, tree roses make an excellent focal point in the garden. You can also plant them along a walkway or fence line to create a border.
I’ve seen them used as a centerpiece for a round walkway in a garden, or planted in the middle of an area of low-growing groundcover. The latter can really make an impressive impact.
They are also perfect for container growing. They’re particularly pretty with some sort of crawling plant at the base, such as petunias, fuchsia, sweet potato vine, or creeping Jenny.
Depending on the size of the plant, you’ll need a container with a capacity that is anywhere from five to 15 gallons. Just remember that whatever planter you choose needs to be heavy enough to stay upright, even in heavy wind. And don’t forget to stake!
Tree Roses Make a Huge Impact
For such small plants, tree roses sure do make a big impact in the garden. Just one can act as a centerpiece that will draw everyone’s eye. A whole row of them makes even more of an impression!
Not so impressive? A standard that is tilted, covered in suckers, and overgrown. But that won’t be a problem for you, now that you’re armed with all the knowledge you need to succeed.
Let me know what kind you end up with in the comments section below – and feel free to share a picture!
I hope that this guide gave you the confidence to get your gorgeous new additions in the ground. If so, you might want to check out some of our other rose guides next:
- A Guide to Rose Growing Habits
- How to Identify and Treat Common Rose Diseases
- Growing Roses 101: Getting Started
- Why Are My Rose Leaves Turning Yellow?
Rose-tree (standard rose): description of varieties, care, photo
Standard rose does not grow as a bush, but in the form of a small tree. This is not a specific variety, but only a miracle created by skillful human hands. And anyone can do such a miracle.
This does not require much knowledge. The main thing is the desire to achieve positive results and a little patience, and you will become the owner of a real masterpiece. The standard rose, the photo of which is placed below, will be the decoration and pride of any garden plot, private house or cottage.
Stem rose rootstock
Rose hips are used as rootstocks for rose trees because they are well adapted to severe frosts. Branches of roses of different varieties are grafted to its trunk. Their choice depends on the height of the desired standard rose and on the shape of the future tree.
Before purchasing a standard rose, it would not hurt to ask the seller what rootstock it is grafted onto. Rubiginose rose and cinnamon rose are unsuitable for these purposes. They give a lot of shoots, the shoots are strewn with sharp thorns, and the growth of lashes leaves much to be desired.
The trunk of low rose trees will be no more than forty-five centimeters. The height of the semi-standards ranges from seventy to eighty centimeters.
Standard - up to one meter, and weeping species (they are also called cascading) - from a meter to a meter of seventy centimeters. Accordingly, small roses are usually grafted onto low boles, and larger roses are grafted onto high boles, which looks much more spectacular.
There is also a room rose tree. But this is an option for an apartment, an elegant rose requires special care. She does not tolerate cold weather and severe frosts. At the first frost, the flower will die. Do not confuse indoor rose with hibiscus. Very often it is called a room rose. Hibiscus reaches a height of 2 meters and takes up a lot of space, unlike a real miniature indoor rose.
Standard rose: photo, description of varieties
There are certain varieties of roses that gardeners most often choose for grafting on stems. Grouse (Grose) and Nozomi (Nozomi) are suitable for "trees". For weeping, that is, cascading, Ballerina (Ballerina) and Canary Bird (Canary Bird) are good choices.
Finding the right varieties for small standard trees is not easy. If the crown of the rosewood is thickened, then the impression of heaviness will be created. And this does not in the least decorate the originally conceived miracle.
For a small garden or patio, low stems are suitable, and one of the best varieties for them is Knirps (Knirps). In this rose, the buds are delicate, pink, look elegant on the "leg" of the trunk. Such a rose-tree will look great in the center of a flower garden, in a single copy. It does not need to be supplemented with other colors.
It is very unusual how large but light blooming bouquet the Immensee variety looks (Immensi). The petals of the rose seem to glow, reminiscent of the mother-of-pearl luster of pearl shells.
Catherine Deneuve is also popular and widespread. It has light orange buds. The shape resembles small suns that illuminate the garden and delight the eye, uplifting.
Recommended rose varieties
- Princess de Monaco - cream petals with pink tints.
- Jardins de Bagatelle (Jardin de Bagatelle) - she has pure cream flowers.
- Scarlet beauty - Marcel Pagnol (Marcel Pagnol).
- Catherine Deneuve, light orange flowers. A beautifully shaped rose tree will harmoniously fit into any garden.
Roses with large inflorescences are suitable for large gardens. These include New Down. Rose tree of this species is popular with gardeners. Planted as a single plant, and surrounded by other flowers.
Tree rose of this variety looks great anyway. Her foliage is small, but her mass is large, so the bush looks massive. Against this green background, large light rose buds “shimmer” like stars in the sky.
Completely different varieties of roses are selected for cascading stems. Paul Noel has lush pink inflorescences, has an attractive aroma that is felt from a distance. Rosarium Vetersen - a variety also suitable for this type of boles, flowers are bright pink, with a touch of fuchsia, looks good next to hedges that are neatly trimmed.
If you prefer white roses, as pure as pearls, check out Alba Meidiland or Schneewittchen. In the second grade, the color is more delicate and soft, but it will delight with flowering shoots longer.
Leverkusen, which blooms with bright yellow flowers, is one of the bright colors. From the cascading family, there is also a classic of scarlet colors - Scarlett Maylandekor. All these varieties, regardless of the color of the rose petals, resemble hanging bright carpets of flowering greenery or fabulous waterfalls.
Varieties, of course, play a big role in choosing a future owner of such a miracle, but you also need to know how to care for them.
Caring for standard roses
Caring for rose trees is not very different from caring for spray roses, but there are some nuances depending on the type of stem. Flowers require regular watering, you need to often do weeding, loosen the soil for rose growth, be sure to fertilize, protect from pests, and shelter from the cold in winter.
Once planted, rosewood canopy should be kept from drying out while the tree is established. To do this, it is covered with wet moss or cotton wool, covered with paper on top. This “compress” must be regularly moistened, and it will be possible to remove it in seven to ten days. It is better to do this in cloudy weather or in the evening.
Tree rose requires regular watering, but be careful not to overwater. Watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening. It is better to water, directing the jet under the root. The crown of the tree also needs a water shower to refresh it without letting the sun "bake" the plant.
Weeds and fertilizers
Rose trees, like other flowers, have weeds. They must be removed in time, weeding the soil. Also, the soil must be regularly loosened, allowing the roots to "breathe". You can do such procedures several times per season.
Fertilizers should be added to the soil already at the time of planting rosewood. If you want your trunk to bloom for a long time and often, we advise you to add superphosphate in granular form to the bottom of the dug hole for planting.
Other top dressings with special fertilizers for roses are preferably carried out in the spring, until the moment when the leaves on the branches bloom. And at the end of summer, one must not forget to fertilize the rosewood soil with potassium, it will help the plant prepare for the winter cold.
How to protect rosewood from pests?
A rose tree of every variety and species is attacked by some disease or pest. It can be a spider mite, common aphid and other insects that are happy to eat fresh foliage, sucking the juice from the plant.
To avoid this and save the rose tree from death, you can use a special preparation - a sprayer. This preparation is suitable for any variety of roses. Spraying is carried out twice a year, in early spring and summer.
How to cover a stem tree for the winter
There are two ways to cover stem roses during the cold season.
First, the trunk is carefully bent to the ground using pins or cross-shaped wooden rods. Then from above it is necessary to throw a little earth with a mound.
The second one is used if the stem does not bend. Then the rose tree is covered in a standing position. First, the crown is covered with some kind of dry material, such as hay. And the top is tied with burlap. This option of sheltering roses for the winter is possible only where there are no severe frosts. Otherwise, the rosewood is dug up for the winter and stored in the basement.
Rosewood needs to be pruned from time to time to keep it nice and round. In the first year after planting the tree, the crown branches are cut short, leaving no more than 15 centimeters from the base.
In subsequent years, pruning should be carried out depending on the condition of the tree. Those shoots that have begun to grow inside the crown should be removed; the crown of the rose should not be allowed to become too dense. It often happens that growths appear at the roots and on the trunk itself, which should also be removed.
what is the name of a flower that grows like a tree
- What is a standard rose and how to create it
- Description of a rose in the form of a tree
- loosening and mulching
- Care for a rose in the winter period
- How to deal with them
wood-cut Europe. However, in Russia it appeared relatively recently. Initially, the plant was grown only in the southern regions of the country, but gradually, thanks to the work of breeders, it became possible to grow this tree in the central district.
What is a standard rose and how to create it
People who are far from floriculture do not know that a rose in the form of a tree is not really one. An unusual form is obtained by grafting roses of various varieties to a root shoot - a bole (it is called a trunk). Depending on its height, roses are obtained, growing as a tree in the garden, of different heights.
What a tree rose looks like
Advantages and disadvantages of such a rose:
|Advantages of a standard rose||Disadvantages of standard rose|
|more abundant flowering than the stem variant;||impossibility of reproduction;|
|increased winter hardiness;||rootstock growing problems.|
In some European countries, experiments are underway on the seed method of propagation of standard roses. And success has already been achieved for some varieties.
Description of a rose in the form of a tree
Rose Geisha (Geisha) - cultivation features
Depending on the height of the trunk to which the rose is grafted, the following types of standard trees are distinguished:
- dwarf trees, the height of which is only 30-50 cm;
- semi standard height up to 80 cm;
- common boles with an average height of 1. 3 m;
- high-stem varieties are the tallest tree roses, which can reach a height of up to 3 m, and the branches are always drooping.
Please note! All grafted varieties retain their original properties.
The most suitable varieties for the formation of a tree
Talea rose (Talea) - features and characteristics of a flower
The question of what is the name of a rose that grows like a tree gives several answers, because the varieties that are used for rootstock are different. Breeders distinguish 3 main species, each of which may include several varieties:
- Caninae (rosehip) is used more often than others, but has some disadvantages: slow growth, low degree of frost resistance, problems in reproduction;
- Synstylae is an unpretentious species with high immunity to diseases and pests, the ability to adapt to most soils. It is used to breed tall rose trees;
- Indicae is used only in regions where the climate is warm and mild, as it does not tolerate cold and other climatic troubles. Its main advantage is that roses of any type can be grafted to it.
Important! Not all varieties of roses are suitable for grafting on a base (stem). Their number is minimal, so when making independent selection attempts, you should be very careful.
Princess de Monaco
Princess of Monaco belongs to the hybrid tea group. He won many prizes at various international flower exhibitions. Description:
- creamy white flowers with a pink edge;
- the buds are thick enough that when they open they look like they've been dipped in bright pink paint;
- as it blooms, the pink color darkens and descends along the entire petal;
- flowers are densely double with a bright delicate aroma.
Princess de Monaco is great to use for the standard version.
Important! These roses are intended only for the southern regions with a hot dry climate.
Princesse de Monaco
Jardins de Bagatelle
Jardin de Bagatelle is also recommended for making a stem tree. This is another variety from the hybrid tea group, the flowers of which are painted in a uniform delicate cream color with a subtle sweet aroma.
Rose Jardin de Bagatelle
Marcel Pagnol (Marcel Pagnol)
Marcel Pagnol has another name - Scarlet Beauty, which is not chosen by chance and is ideal for this rose. And she, in turn, is ideal for growing a bright and spectacular standard tree. Description:
- the flower is recognized as one of the most beautiful and best-selling in the world;
- large buds of bright red, scarlet color with a velvety tinge;
- bud shape is delicate and elegant. This quality is preserved even with full disclosure.
Please note! The variety belongs to re-blooming, i.e. during the season, 2 flowering periods can take place at once.
This is a variety that was bred relatively recently, but has already managed to gain popularity. It is also used as a scion to create standard roses. The buds are bright pinkish-orange. They look very impressive and will bring brightness to any garden plot, even on the gloomiest, rainy day.
Rose Catherine Deneuve
These are not all varieties that are used as standard roses, but they look very impressive and undoubtedly deserve attention.
Selection of standard rose seedlings
Rose Polka (Polka) - features of the popular flower
It is preferable to buy standard roses in containers, because that is how they are more sensitive to lack of liquid. The minimum stem diameter should be 1 cm, for weeping high stem roses - 2 cm.
Important! The plant must be free of even the slightest damage.
The crown should already be of the correct shape and have several powerful branches. In the future, it will be possible to form a beautiful dense crown if 2 buds are budded at once on one stock.
Europeans are more fortunate, in some nurseries there graft 3 buds at once. Therefore, buying a plant with only 1 bud does not make sense, since as it grows, it will not be possible to form a crown shape.
If you buy a seedling in a pot, then the height of the flowerpot cannot be less than 25 cm. The plant itself should be easily removed from there, and the root system should entangle the entire earthen ball.
Please note! Unscrupulous nursery owners often plant a plant in a vessel on the eve of purchase. This is very bad.
Signs of poor planting and care of a tree rose are:
- dry or waterlogged soil;
- presence of weeds;
- the presence of moss on the surface of the substrate.
Engraftment of a standard rose with an open root system should be given even more attention. If buds have sprouted on such seedlings or, moreover, young shoots have grown, it is better not to take such a plant. And if the grower is also a beginner, then it is worth looking for that nursery where plants in pots will be sold.
Standard roses in the nursery
How to plant a standard rose correctly
After the purchase, the main task for the grower is how to properly plant and make a rose on a stem. Seedlings are planted only in spring. This is necessary so that they can grow over the summer, adapt, gain strength and prepare for wintering.
The plant is carefully removed from the container and a secure wooden stake is placed in place of the temporary support. In nurseries, flowers were watered very often, this should not be forgotten. The first few weeks they need to be watered more often, gradually accustoming to a moderate amount.
Please note! If bushes with an open root system are selected for planting, then special attention should be paid to them.
- Before planting the rose, a support is installed in the planting hole, the height of which will reach approximately the middle of the crown.
- The standard rose is not buried in the soil. The distance from its stem to the support should be about 10-15 cm.
- The bend at the base of the stem must be on the side opposite to the slope, i.e. if the bend is to the right of the peg, then when covering it, it must be bent to the right. The side of the bend must be remembered by finding some landmarks.
- After planting, it is worth slightly compacting the soil and tying the bush to the support with loops at the base of the crown and a few centimeters above the soil level.
- Crown must be protected from drying out. It can be overlaid with wet moss or cotton wool and tied with a breathable material that allows light to pass through. This tissue must be constantly moist until the first buds appear. This condition is very important for the formation of the crown and adaptation of the tree in a new place.
Plant in adaptation period
Features of caring for a tree-like rose to form a tree
In order for a standard plant to please with its appearance, and neighbors ask the name of this chic rose that looks like a tree, it must be properly cared for. Care directly depends on the variety of the grafted flower.
Watering Rules and Humidity
Water regularly with soft, well-settled water at room temperature. For some varieties, it will be useful to mulch the soil around the tree with natural materials, such as moss. So moisture will not evaporate quickly.
Important! The soil should always be slightly damp. However, in no case should moisture stagnation be allowed, since the root system is too tender, rot instantly forms on it.
Top dressing and soil quality
Top dressing is carried out from the beginning of the growing season and continues throughout the entire period. For this, ready-made compositions of mineral and organic fertilizers for roses are used, which alternate. Top dressing is combined with watering and is carried out 1 time in 14 days (maybe a little more often).
Please note! Chicken manure can also be used as a fertilizer, but it must be heavily diluted with water, since initially it is a very concentrated mixture that will simply burn fragile roots.
Soil may vary depending on variety preference. But in any case, it should be loose and nutritious, pass water and air well and have drainage. It is better not to plant flowers in a place where groundwater passes too close to the surface.
Loosening and mulching
Loosening is useful after each watering and fertilizing, but can be done less frequently. The main thing is to do it carefully, with a small chopper, so as not to hurt the roots of the tree. Moss, peat or sawdust are suitable as mulch.
When caring for standard rose trees, special attention is paid to pruning, since it is precisely this that gives the desired shape. The main pruning is carried out in the spring. The exception is the varieties of the Rambler group, which bloom only once a season. They are pruned immediately after flowering.
Important! Rootstock shoots can grow along the entire height of the trunk. You need to fight this right away, just breaking them off.
Rose care in winter
Wintering is a very important step in rose tree care. With the wrong shelter or preparation for winter, all the work of the grower can go down the drain, and the plant will simply die. You need to prepare for this difficult period as early as the beginning of autumn, when you need to completely stop watering. In the second half of September, all leaves are removed from the rose. This procedure does not have to be done in one day, it can be done in several approaches.
Next is cropping. Hybrid tea varieties are pruned so that their branches remain no more than 30 cm long, while in floribunda and climbing varieties, shoots are preserved, only damaged branches and old buds are removed.
At the end of October, the soil around the tree is loosened and treated with a solution of iron sulphate. They also spray the trunk. As soon as the first frosts begin, the plant needs to be covered. In fact, the tree itself, like the wild rose, which is its basis, is not afraid of frost, but the grafting site should be insulated very carefully.
The crown is wrapped with a special insulation, and the trunk is bent to the ground. This is done very carefully so as not to break it. To do this, you can use special staples or drive a peg 20 cm from the base of the trunk and tie a stem to it. The crown should be as close to the soil as possible. She hides herself with spruce paws, falls asleep with leaves and another layer of spruce branches, which will not allow the leaves to scatter.
Important! If the height of the tree is less than 80 cm, it is not necessary to bend it, just wrap it entirely with a dense layer of insulation and secure it with linen threads.
Standard rose covered for the winter
Growing problems, diseases and pests
In the process of growing a standard rose tree, it is important to notice rosehip shoots in time and remove them without delay. Otherwise, a more powerful bush will simply destroy the tender grafted flower, drowning it out.
In general, the immunity of such plants is quite high, since the immunity of the mother plant is able to endure any troubles on its own, despite the difficulties. But it is worth looking at the features of the grafted variety, at its possible diseases. When they are first detected, immediate processing is required.
How to deal with them
Diseases and pests are easiest to deal with in the early stages. Diseases most often occur due to improper care, and pests can be transferred from neighboring plants. Therefore, it is important to monitor the entire flower garden.
Important! In many diseases, it is necessary to remove damaged areas.
Pests can be controlled in two ways: mechanically and with the help of chemicals. The first method is suitable for caterpillars, large beetles that are collected and destroyed. The second one is for more dangerous parasites that suck cell sap from the flower, while remaining almost invisible. It is good that a huge number of insecticides have now been created to help flower growers that can cope with any problems.
Please note! A rose in the form of a tree can be grown not only in the garden, but also at home.