How to take care of persimmon tree

Persimmon Tree Care - Port Kells Nurseries

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Persimmon Tree CarePort Kells Nurseries2021-04-18T13:08:49-07:00

A persimmon is the edible fruit of a number of species of trees in the genus Diospyros. Persimmons are generally light yellow orange to dark red orange in colour, and depending on the species, vary in size and may be spherical, acorn or pumpkin shaped. The calyx often remains attached to the fruit after harvesting, but becomes easier to remove as it ripens. They are high in glucose, with a balanced protein profile, and possess various medicinal and chemical uses.

Like the tomato, it is not considered a “common berry”, but is in fact a “true berry” by definition.

Growing Conditions

Location: Full sun with some air movement is recommended for persimmon trees in inland areas, although they will tolerate some partial shade. Persimmons grown in cooler areas should have full sun with protection from cooling breezes. As an attractive ornamental the tree fits well in the landscape. It does not compete well with eucalyptus.

Soil: Persimmons can withstand a wide rage of conditions as long as the soil is not overly salty, but does best in deep, well drained loam. A pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is preferred. The tree has a strong tap root which may mean digging a deeper hole than usual when planting.

Irrigation: Persimmon trees will withstand short periods of drought, but the fruit will be larger and of higher quality with regular watering. Extreme drought will cause the leaves and fruit to drop prematurely. Any fruit left on the tree will probably sunburn.

Fertilization: Most trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess nitrogen can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves are not deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at a rate of l pound per inch of trunk diameter at ground level. Spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late winter or early spring.


1. Persimmons are successfully grown in deep, well-drained slightly acidic soil. A location that receives full sun is ideal for the tree although partial shade may be tolerated.

2. The persimmon has a strong tap root so it requires a deeper planting hole than most trees. Persimmon roots are normally black and should not be considered diseased or dead. The depth of the planting hole is determined by the root system if planting a bare root specimen. If the transplant is containerized, dig the hole 4 times the width of the root ball and 1 1/2 half times the depth.

3. Position the tree in the planting hole and back fill a small portion of soil to stabilize. Fill the hole with water and allow the root ball and soil to absorb.

4. Back fill the remaining original soil and water again deeply. Persimmon roots grow slowly and require regular watering when newly transplanted.

5. Mulch the entire planting area


Persimmons can be classified into two general categories: those that bear astringent fruit until they are soft ripe and those that bear non astringent fruits. Within each of these categories, there are cultivars whose fruits are influenced by pollination (pollination variant) and cultivars whose fruits are unaffected by pollination (pollination constant). Actually, it is the seeds, not pollination that influences the fruit.
An astringent cultivar must be jelly soft before it is fit to eat, and such cultivars are best adapted to cooler regions where persimmons can be grown. The flesh color of pollination-constant astringent cultivars is not influenced by pollination. Pollination-variant astringent cultivars have dark flesh around the seeds when pollinated.

A non astringent persimmon can be eaten when it is crisp as an apple. These cultivars need hot summers, and the fruit might retain some astringency when grown in cooler regions. Pollination-constant non astringent persimmons are always edible when still firm; pollination-variant non astringent fruit are edible when firm only if they have been pollinated.

The shape of the fruit varies by cultivar from spherical to acorn to flattened or squarish. The color of the fruit varies from light yellow-orange to dark orange-red. The size can be as little as a few ounces to more than a pound. The entire fruit is edible except for the seed and calyx. Alternate bearing is common. This can be partially overcome by thinning the fruit or moderately pruning after a light-crop year. Freezing the fruit overnight and then thawing softens the fruit and also removes the astringency. Unharvested fruit remaining on the tree after leaf fall creates a very decorative effect. It is common for many immature fruit to drop from May to September

Harvest astringent varieties when they are hard but fully colored. They will soften on the tree and improve in quality, but you will probably lose many fruit to the birds. Astringent persimmons will ripen off the tree if stored at room temperature.
Non astringent persimmons are ready to harvest when they are fully colored, but for best flavor, allow them to soften slightly after harvest. Both kinds of persimmons should be cut from the tree with hand-held pruning shears, leaving the calyx intact Unless the fruit is to be used for drying whole, the stems should be cut as close to the fruit as possible. Even though the fruit is relatively hard when harvested, it will bruise easily, so handle with care.

Mature, hard astringent persimmons can be stored in the refrigerator for at least a month. They can also be frozen for 6 to 8 months. Non astringent persimmons can be stored for a short period at room temperature. They will soften if kept with other fruit in the refrigerator. Persimmons also make an excellent dried fruit. They can either be peeled and dried whole or cut into slices (peeled or unpeeled) and dried that way. When firm astringent persimmons are peeled and dried whole they lose all their astringency and develop a sweet, date like consistency.

General Pruning Care

The ideal time for pruning persimmon, is in late winter or early in spring. Using a sharp pair of shears, cut out the broken and diseased branches, and then cut them back till you reach the the trunk of the tree.

Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of main branches while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier. Cut young trees back to 1/2 high (or about 3 feet) at the time of planting.

Pests and Diseases

Persimmons are relatively problem-free, although mealybug and scale in association with ants can sometimes cause problems. Ant control will usually take care of these pests. Other occasional pests include white flies, thrips which can cause skin blemishes and a mite that is blamed for the “brown lace collar” near the calyx. Water logging can also cause root rot. Vertebrate pests such as squirrels, deer, coyotes, rats, opossums and birds are fond of the fruit and gophers will attack the roots. Other problems include blossom and young fruit shedding, especially on young trees. This is not usually a serious problem, but if the drop is excessive, it may be useful to try girdling a few branches. Over watering or over fertilization may also be responsible. Large quantities of small fruit on an otherwise healthy tree can be remedied by removing all but one or two fruit per twig in May or June.

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How to Plant, Grow, and Harvest Persimmons

Ripe persimmon makes a delicious breakfast food or snack, halved and eaten like a melon. Persimmons can also be sliced and used in winter salads or compotes. They can be pureed for sorbets, ice cream, steamed puddings, cookies, and quick bread.

Persimmon trees are relatively easy to grow. They are tolerant of most soils as long as the drainage is good, and they are rarely bothered by pests or diseases.

The key to growing persimmons is choosing a variety or varieties that grow well where you live. Winter cold is the chief decider when narrowing down persimmons to grow. Asian persimmons demand mild winter weather. American and hybrid persimmons grow in relatively cold winter regions.

American, hybrid, and some Asian persimmons are astringent until soft-ripe. They will make you pucker unless you wait until the fruit is mushy ripe; then the flavor is very sweet. Most Asian persimmons—not all—are non-astringent and can be eaten while the fruit is still hard; the fruit will be sweet, but the flavor will improve and sweeten more if they are allowed to soften off the tree.

Types of Persimmons and Climate Where You Live

There are three types of persimmons: Asian, also called Oriental or Japanese, persimmons, American persimmons, and hybrids of Asian and American persimmons. Asian persimmons can be grown in mild winter regions, Zones 7 to 10. American persimmons can be grown in both cold and mild winter regions, Zones 5 to 9. Hybrids can be grown in the same regions as American persimmons. Consider winter temperatures where you live when choosing a persimmon for your garden.

Persimmons also can be divided into two groups related to taste. Some persimmons are astringent and some are not. This is an important distinction. Astringent taste is a flavor of dryness, a mouth sensation of dry or chalky; astringent fruit will cause the mouth to pucker. Astringent taste is generally produced by tannins in the rind of the fruit; it causes the mucous membranes in the mouth to contract or pucker—thus a mouthfeel of dryness. Some persimmons have an astringent taste when ripe, some do not. Allowed to ripen and soften either on or off the tree, the flavor of most persimmons will sweeten. Consider taste and flavor when you choose a persimmon.

Asian or Oriental persimmons (Diospyros kaki), also called Japanese or kaki persimmons, have a honey-sweet taste and smooth soft texture; they are mostly, not wholly, non-astringent (but some are). Asian persimmons can be eaten out of hand like an apple. Asian persimmons are 3 to 4 inches in diameter; they are larger than American persimmons. Asian persimmons grow 25 to 30-feet tall with a 25-foot spread. They are adapted to Zones 7 to 10. The leaves of Asian persimmons turn bright orange or yellow in fall. The fruit hangs on the tree in late fall after leaves have dropped. Note: some Asian persimmons are astringent, though not as astringent as American persimmons. In Zones 9 and 10 choose non-astringent Asian persimmons; in Zones 7 and 8, astringent Asian persimmons may be better suited for colder winter temperatures and milder summer temperatures.

American persimmons (D. virginiana) are richly flavored and all are astringent unless fully ripe (the mouthfeel is dry). American persimmons lose some of their astringent taste after the tree has been hit by frost. Ripe fruit can be very soft and have a rich, sweet flavor. American persimmons are hardier than Asian persimmons; they can grow in Zones 5 to 9. The fruit is smaller than Asian persimmons 1½ to 2 inches in diameter. American persimmons trees grow larger than Asian persimmons; trees grow 30 to 40 feet tall and 30 feet wide. Leaves turn yellow in fall.

Hybrid persimmons—crosses between Asian and American varieties—are hardy like American persimmons with larger fruit (2 to 2½ inches in diameter). They are sweet and flavorful when allowed to fully ripen.

There are multiple cultivars of Asian, American, and hybrid persimmons. Consider closely the grower description of the persimmon variety you are considering. Some cultivars may vary from the general description of the persimmon type they are grouped with.

Make sure to choose a persimmon that is suited to the climate where you live (see above). Contact the nearby Cooperative Extension Service or a nearby garden center for a list of persimmon varieties that grow well in your area. A quick rule of thumb is: in mild winter regions grow non-astringent Asian persimmons, in mild-to-cool summer regions grow astringent Asian persimmons, and in cold winter regions plant American and hybrid persimmons.

Best Site for Growing Persimmons
  • Plant persimmons in full sun.
  • Plant persimmons in compost-rich, loamy soil that is well-drained.
  • Persimmons have a long taproot so deep, loamy soil is best. Asian persimmons prefer sandy-loam soil. American persimmons will tolerate a wide range of soils.
  • Choose a site that will allow the tree to grow to maturity; consider the height and spread of the persimmon you want to grow. Make sure there is enough room for the tree to reach maturity.

Persimmon Pollination
  • Check the pollination requirement of the variety you want to plant to know if you will need a second tree for cross-pollination and fruit.
  • Most Asian persimmons are more or less self-fruitful; all Asian persimmons will bear fruit better if two varieties are planted.
  • American persimmons can be male, female, or bisexual; some are some self-fruitful, some are not.
  • Most female cultivars of Asian persimmons and a few female cultivars of American bear fruit without pollination.

Persimmon Yield
  • Asian persimmon trees will bear 1 to 2 bushels of fruit each year.
  • American persimmon trees will bear 2 to 3 bushels of fruit each year.

Spacing Persimmon Trees
  • Space persimmon trees 20 to 35 feet apart depending on the variety. Allow enough room between trees for air circulation and sunlight.

Planting Persimmons
  • Plant bare-root persimmons in spring before the tree breaks dormancy. Plant ball and burlap trees in spring also before the tree breaks dormancy. Plant container-grown trees any time from spring to autumn; avoid planting when the weather is hot and dry.
  • Persimmons have a long taproot. Dig a deep hole and transplant carefully; damaged taproots regenerate slowly.
  • Prepare a planting site in full sun that is sheltered from a prevailing breeze or wind.
  • Dig a hole half again as deep and twice as wide as the tree’s roots.
  • Work well-rotted compost or manure into the soil and add a cupful of all-purpose fertilizer to the bottom of the hole.
  • Put a tree stake in place before planting. Drive the stake into the ground to the side of the hole to at least 2 feet deep.
  • Set the tree in the hole so that the soil mark on the stem is at the surface level of the surrounding soil. (Remove all twine and burlap from balled and burlapped trees.) Spread the roots out in all directions.
  • Re-fill the hole with half native soil and half aged compost or commercial organic planting mix; firm in the soil so that there are no air pockets among the roots. Water in the soil and create a modest soil basin around the trunk to hold water at watering time.
  • Secure the tree to the stake with tree ties.
  • After planting, water each tree thoroughly and fertilize with a high-phosphorus liquid starter fertilizer.

Container Growing Persimmons
  • Persimmons can be grown in large containers, though this is not ideal since persimmons have taproots that grow deep.
  • Choose a container at least 18 inches wide and deep.
  • Plant trees in a commercial organic potting mix.
  • Keep the soil evenly moist but not wet.
  • Feed persimmons growing in containers with an all-purpose fertilizer that is slightly higher in potassium.
  • Repot the tree after two years into a container that is 24 inches wide and deep. Be careful whenever transplanting a persimmon not to injure the taproot.
  • A persimmon growing in a container will have to be pruned to keep the tree size small.
  • Persimmons can be trained as espaliers.

Training and Pruning Persimmons
  • Persimmons are best trained to a central leader or modified central leader. Leave six to eight scaffold branches placed evenly around the trunk. Persimmon branches can be brittle so develop a tree with strong crotches that can bear the weight of fruit.
  • Persimmon fruit is borne on current season wood—branches that have grown this year will produce fruit this year. The fruit is also borne on one-year-old branches. Heading back will deprive the tree of fruit production.
  • Keep the tree thinned out with even spacing of the fruit-producing branches. Remove excess growth and any dead or poorly positioned wood. Remove all suckers.
  • If a tree becomes too tall, picking fruit may become difficult. Tall branches can be headed back; new shoots will grow below where the limb was cut.
  • The best time to prune a persimmon is in winter when the sap is dormant.
  • Hand thin fruit that appears crowded. Heavy fruiting can break branches.
  • Persimmons can be trained to cordons or espaliers.

Persimmon Care, Nutrients, and Water
  • Keep the soil evenly moist soil for optimal fruit production.
  • Feed persimmons in late winter before trees break dormancy; spread several inches of aged compost around the tree to the dripline each spring.
  • Feed trees with compost tea or a dilute solution of fish emulsion during the growing season. Excess nitrogen will cause fruit drop.

Harvest and Storing Persimmons
  • Persimmons begin bearing fruit 2 to 3 years after planting; some grafted trees will bear fruit the year after planting.
  • Most persimmons are not edible until they are soft.
  • Pick astringent persimmons when they are very soft, and their skins are almost translucent or collect the fruit after it falls to the ground. Most American persimmons drop their fruits when they are ripe; mulch under trees to cushion the fall. Astringent fruits can be left on the tree to ripen if they do not fall.
  • Pick non-astringent cultivars, most Asian varieties, when they are fully colored but still slightly firm.
  • Harvest ripe persimmons by clipping the fruit from the tree with a pruner or shear. Leave some stem attached to the fruit.
  • Slightly underripe persimmons will ripen off the tree. Speed ripening by placing the fruit in a bag with an apple.
  • Persimmons can be eaten fresh; they can be frozen or dried.
  • Fresh persimmons keep for two months in the refrigerator.
  • Persimmons can be dried and eaten like figs and dates.
  • Persimmons can be pulped and used for puddings, pies, cookies, and ice cream.

Persimmon Problems and Control
  • Persimmon twig gridler is a horned beetle that chews on stems and branches to the point of severing the wood. These pests are best controlled by picking up and putting debris in the trash; debris will contain insect eggs.
  • Scale are insects with a shell-like covering; they suck sap from leaves and branches. Spray trees with dormant oil spray in winter or crush the insects with your fingers.
  • Anthracnose is a fungal disease that will cause leaves to develop small brown or gray spots. It can infect fruit as well causing soft translucent spots in the fruit that will turn to rot. Remove and destroy infected leaves and fruit.
  • Raccoons will steal fruit; place a tin collar 1 foot wide around the trunk to keep raccoons out of the tree.

Fall and Winter Persimmon Care
  • Prune persimmons in winter.
  • Train young trees to an open center or modified central leader (see Training and Pruning above).
  • Wrap the trunks of young trees with burlap or tree tape to prevent sunscald in winter.

Propagating Persimmons
  • Grafting is the most common way to propagate persimmon cultivars; join persimmon stock and scion by whip grafting, bark grafting, or cleft grafting just as buds on the rootstock are pushing out.
  • Persimmons can be grown from seed. Stratify seeds for two to three months by placing them in the refrigerator immediately after extracting them from the fruit. Seedlings begin bearing fruit whey they are about six years old.

Persimmon Varieties to Grow

Asian persimmon varieties include:

  • ‘Fuyu’ popular non-astringent type; reddish-yellow flesh is sweet and mild; about the size of a tennis ball; requires a pollinator. ‘Jiro’ is very similar and often mislabeled as ‘Fuyu’.
  • ‘Hachiya’ fruit is astringent and soft; skin and flesh become yellow to orange when ripe; fruit is large and oblong to cone-shaped with a pointed tip; fruit grows to 4 inches long and 3 inches across. Requires a pollinator
  • ‘Tamopan’ astringent fruit; large, turban-shaped fruit; must be fully ripe before eating; thick skin; orange, juicy flesh can be eaten with a spoon; excellent flavor.
  • ‘Tanenashi’ large, excellent quality; orange-red tapered fruit; the flesh is astringent until soft; bears fruit without pollination.
  • ‘Gosho’ (‘Giant Fuyu’) sweet, flavorful, non-astringent; large, round fruit.
  • ‘Izu’ non-astringent; round fruit is borne on a tree half the size of a standard persimmon.
  • ‘Maru’ non-astringent; medium-size, round, orange fruit.
  • ‘Saijo’ hardy Asian cultivar; astringent, elongated, dull yellow fruit.

American persimmons varieties include:

  • ‘Meader’ self-fruitful, almost seedless.
  • ‘John Rick’ excellent flavor; requires pollinator.
  • ‘Early Golden’ flavorful; need cross-pollination for the best crop.

Hybrid persimmons include:

  • ‘Russian Beauty’ and ‘Nikita’s Gift’.

Also of interest:

Persimmons: Kitchen Basics

Persimmon. Growing at home. Caring for persimmons at home

Growing exotic plants at home is not an exception these days, but rather the norm. Many do this, but not many know how to handle them so that they develop normally, and even give at least some kind of harvest. Caring for persimmons is no different from caring for lemons, feijoas, figs, pomegranates, etc.

1 Growing at home

2 Useful uses of persimmons

3 Main varieties

Growing indoors

This plant needs to maintain the required temperature and humidity in both summer and winter for normal development. This is especially true for the winter period. For its overwintering, certain conditions are necessary: ​​the temperature is not more than +10 degrees, the light is not necessary, but regular, although not plentiful, watering is needed. For this, a basement or cellar may be suitable, if there are none, then you can insulate a balcony or loggia or use an unheated pantry. This period starts from the end of October and ends in February. As for the rest of the year, it only benefits her, including the high summer temperature. At this time, she feels good in the open air, where there is a lot of heat and light.

Pitted persimmon. There is an opinion that persimmon seeds do not germinate well and they need special treatment before planting. For this purpose, many instructions and wishes have been written. But if it is decided to plant a stone of a fruit that has just been eaten, then none of this is required. Their germination decreases sharply during long-term storage, and only then will it be necessary to carry out "resuscitation" measures in order for the seeds to germinate. And so the bone is taken, sprinkled with earth, regularly watered, and after two weeks maximum, you can see powerful shoots.

Feeding and watering. In order for a young, newly appeared tree to grow successfully further at home, it needs to be watered and fed. It should be recalled that this is a tropical plant and needs tropical conditions. Only in this case, you can count on the harvest. Despite this, ordinary persimmon can tolerate 20 degree frosts, and its virgin form is even more than -40 degrees. It is best to water with soft (rain) water, but if this is strained, then you can soften the usual one by taking a handful of peat, wrap it in a rag and lower it into a bowl of water overnight.

Persimmon prefers light soils and does not tolerate heavy soils - this should be remembered when growing it at home. As for top dressing, the persimmon feels fine on poor soils. Therefore, it is better to underfeed her than to overfeed her. This applies to both mineral and organic fertilizers.

Transplant. In the process of growth, this tree needs to be replanted several times, this increases the volume of the root system. In the first year, when the seedling is growing rapidly, it will have to be transplanted 2-3 times, the next year and up to 3 years of age - every six months; after 3 years - every year, and after 5 years of life - every other year. During transplantation, it is not recommended to immediately greatly increase the volume of the container. With each transplant, the diameter of the pot increases by no more than 3-4 cm.

Crown formation. Persimmon is a tree and can grow at home to large sizes. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to control its growth, while forming a compact crown. Usually, a spherical crown is formed. To do this, when reaching 35-40 cm in height, pinch its top with side shoots. This is also done in order to limit the growth of this tree, resulting in a small compact tree with a spherical crown.

Fruiting and grafting. There are myths that it is impossible to get fruits from persimmon, growing it at home, and, therefore, why do it. But if you know some of the nuances of its agricultural technology, then this task becomes such and not difficult. Basic conditions for harvesting:

  • Proper organization of wintering. It is at the time of wintering that the persimmon lays the next year's crop. It requires cold wintering, despite the fact that it is a very heat-loving plant. The optimum temperature is 0..+5 degrees. As you know, she calmly endures winter with frosts of -20 degrees.
  • Permanent inhibition of growth due to shortening of fast growing shoots.
  • Keep her on a "diet". In no case do not overfeed, as this will only cause its rapid growth.
  • Graft cuttings from persimmons that are already fruiting. This will speed up the fruiting process.
  • Growing a tree in a small amount of soil limits the development of a large root system. A disproportionate root system will contribute to an overdose of nutrients, and therefore the tree will grow sickly and frail.
  • to accelerate the appearance of fruit buds, you can ring individual branches, but in no case - ring the trunk.

If these recommendations are followed, over time it will be possible to rejoice at the appearance of the first flowers, and with the onset of winter, pick the first fruits. This miracle can happen as early as the third year of life.

Useful use of persimmon

Persimmon contains many vitamins (C, PP, E, A), as well as a large number of microelements (potassium, phosphorus, iodine, copper, manganese, iron, calcium). Which in turn help with beriberi, scurvy, increase the number of red blood cells.

In addition, it has antibacterial properties and is able to neutralize various Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. With poor heart function, cardiologists prescribe it to remove excess fluid from the body. To reduce the load on the kidneys, it is recommended to drink it with milk. It can not be used in the treatment of atherosclerosis - a daily dose of about 100g. It helps to calm the nervous system, increases efficiency, helps restore brain function in case of lesions and hemorrhages. With violations of the thyroid gland helps the body, making up for the lack of iodine.

Its fruits can be successfully used as a source of valuable sucrose and are recommended for "Kremlin" and vegetarian diets. Persimmon is an integral part of salads, meat dishes and in the preparation of various desserts and drinks.

Main varieties

There are three types of persimmon:

  • Persimmon Verginskaya. It can be found mainly in the western United States and the Mediterranean. The fruits of this variety have a high (about 45%) sugar content and they are of great nutritional value, despite their average size (from 2 to 6 cm in diameter). The tree is up to 25 meters high, very frost-resistant (down to -35 degrees) and can be easily grown without shelter in our conditions.
  • Caucasian persimmon. She took a fancy to the subtropical belt from Japan to Spain. The fruits are not large (about 2.5 cm in diameter) and are sold in the markets as common persimmon. Frost resistance is not lower than -25 degrees.
  • Japanese persimmon. Compared with the previous species, it has a small, compact tree no more than 10 meters high. In addition to Japan, it is widely distributed in the USA, Spain, Korea, China, and Israel. The fruits of the Japanese persimmon are the largest and can weigh up to 0.5 kg, and at the same time, from one tree, you can collect up to 500 kg of fruit.

Fruit garden in the apartment Garden: trees and shrubs

Growing persimmon and description of varieties

Tropical fruits expand the geography of growth. Growing persimmon today is not an innovation, not a curiosity, but a reality! Enjoy the benefits of self-planted trees that produce orange fruits with juicy sweet flesh.

Botanical species of persimmon

The famous representative of the Eben family is found mostly in 3 species, each of which is interesting in its own way.


Caucasian persimmon (common) has no cultivars. Used as a rootstock for eastern persimmon. The plants obtained as a result of vaccination are distinguished by their endurance - they tolerate frost and drought well, are undemanding to the composition of the soil, and are not afraid of transplants.


Virginia (Virginskaya) persimmon is native to the south of North America. The roots of trees 20 m high withstand deep freezing of the soil. That is why this species becomes a means of promoting grafted varieties to regions with a cold climate.

Grafted seedlings grow on loamy and sandy soils. However, the cultivation of persimmons in this case also has negative aspects. Cultivars are excessively moisture-loving and do not tolerate transplanting well.


This species has given rise to new hybrids that are ideal for growing in gardens. Oriental persimmon is famous for its honey-like fruit, which ranges in color from bright orange to dark red. Juicy pulp contains a large amount of potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, vitamins C, E, A, group B.

Persimmon: description of varieties

Persimmon varieties - a great variety. Let's get acquainted with the most remarkable in terms of taste and appearance.

  • Wren (chocolate). The most popular variety in Russia. Persimmon does not knit even in an unripe state. The consistency of the pulp is tender, creamy.
  • Fig (chamomile). The variety ripens before the rest - you can try persimmon with characteristic sections on the skin, resembling chamomile petals, already in October.
  • Bull's heart (tomato). A self-fertile late-ripening variety produces elongated, seedless, orange-colored fruits. The mass of one berry reaches half a kilogram.
  • Honey (tangerine). Bright juicy flattened persimmon is very similar to tangerine. It is characterized by a honey taste and a high content of pectin, which lowers cholesterol and improves peristalsis.
  • Russian woman. A hybrid obtained by crossing virgin and oriental persimmons, designed for growing in difficult climatic conditions. Sweet orange "apples" are pitted and taste like sherbet.

Write in the comments - do you have any favorite varieties of persimmon? Why did they become your favourites?

Growing and caring for persimmons

Growing persimmons requires knowledge and patience. If you do everything right, then a tropical deciduous tree will quickly take root in your area.

Choose your landing site responsibly - the success of your event depends on it. It should be sunny and well protected from the wind. Try to plant persimmons near the house or outbuildings that will perform a barrier function.

Persimmon prefers air- and moisture-permeable soils rich in humus. The ideal option is black soil. The culture will not grow on saline and waterlogged substrates. Compost or humus must be added to sandy soil.

Outdoor cultivation of persimmon requires careful preparation:

  1. A planting hole of at least 50 liters is prepared 2 weeks before planting. At the bottom, a drainage 20 cm thick is made of small pebbles, broken bricks or crushed stone.
  2. 24 hours before planting, cut off the roots of the seedling and shorten the central conductor to 80 cm. Persimmon is soaked in Zircon or Kornevin.
  3. Compost (2 buckets) and NPK (1 glass) are added to the backfill soil. Pour the resulting mixture into the pit with a mound and set a peg in the center.
  4. The seedling is lowered, having previously straightened the roots, covered with earth so that the root collar is 5 cm deep and tied to a support.
  5. The tree is abundantly watered with warm water and mulched. Watering one seedling requires 20-30 liters of water.

Persimmon planting successfully completed - now it is important to remember the rules of care.

How to care for persimmons?

Successful persimmon cultivation is impossible without consistent care. The list of mandatory actions is in the table.

Care measures Features of carrying out
Watering Persimmon loves water. Prolonged drought leads to twisting of leaves and mass abscission of fruits. Water the seedlings as the soil dries out and do not forget about morning spraying during the hot season.
Loosening and mulching To improve the supply of oxygen to the roots, the tree circle is regularly loosened. It is also important to mulch the soil with hay, tree bark, agrotextiles.
Top dressing Persimmon is fed several times a season. In the spring nitrogen is introduced, in the summer - a complex of minerals, in the fall - potassium and phosphorus.

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