How to trim a cedar tree

5 Simple Tips For Trimming A Cedar Tree

As you are probably aware, trees need maintenance. Cedar trees are no exception to this rule and, though they are a relatively low-maintenance plant, you should keep up with their care. If you are looking for some important tips about how and why you should trim your cedar tree, you have ended up in the right spot!

In general, when trimming a cedar tree you’ll want to keep 5 important things in mind:

  1. Locate which area of your tree needs trimming
  2. Sanitize your shears before you trim
  3. Keep your tools sharp
  4. Avoid trimming too much off the top
  5. Use the proper pruning shears

Before we dive into the methods to keep in mind when trimming a cedar tree, let’s discuss what might be going through your mind right about now. Why do we bother trimming our cedar trees in the first place?

Just to add – when you shop using links from Tree Journey, we may earn affiliate commissions if you make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.

Why Do You Need To Trim Cedar Trees?

Before reading on and learning about the process involved in trimming (or pruning) a cedar tree, we should talk about why these things are necessary to begin with. 

First up, trimming and pruning are going to be used pretty interchangeably here today. It’s worth mentioning that there is a difference between these two practices. 

What are the differences? Keep on reading to find out!

To avoid confusion, though, trimming and pruning are the same process, just with a different motive.

You may not have to trim some cedar trees as often as you think! Some varieties are among the slowest growing trees, which you can see here Slowest Growing Trees (And Why They Grow So Slow).

1. Makes The Cedar Tree Look Good

Trimming has more to do with the appearance of a tree and promoting healthy growth. 

You can think of this as a preemptive tactic to ensure your cedar tree looks good and grows well.  

Trimming may have to do with a branch here or there, or it may be an effort to allow your tree to put its energy into growing taller rather than wider, for example.

2. Limits Cedar Tree Overgrowth

Pruning a tree is done in the same way, but this is more of a curative technique. 

Cedar trees are pruned in response to disease, overgrowth, and other things already affecting the tree.

Now, we can talk about why one might need to trim or prune a tree. Most of these reasons can be preventative or curative, so it is up to your situation to decide if you are ‘pruning’ or ‘trimming’ a tree.

3. Promotes Healthy Cedar Tree Growth 

Since taking action ahead of time is ideal, you can prune your cedar tree even if there is no current sign of disease. 

In doing so, you will help to keep the branches healthy and your tree will flourish as it grows into a resilient organism. 

Unkempt cedar trees are more susceptible to disease and other issues. Since they are not as prepared to fight disease, they will struggle more than a well-trimmed tree will.

If there already have been some signs of disease, pruning your tree can help you nip that problem in the bud by removing any infected branches or sections of your cedar tree.

4. Avoids Overcrowding Of Branches

Cedar trees are often more susceptible to issues when they are not trimmed because overcrowding of branches allows for disease, parasites, and more to spread rapidly throughout the entire canopy.

By trimming your cedar tree regularly, you can avoid this overcrowding. This creates a healthy amount of space between branches for your tree to grow and get the sunlight and air it needs most. 

This has benefits beyond the overall health of your tree, though. By keeping the crowding to a minimum, your tree will also look more maintained.

5. Keeps Your Cedar Tree Looking Maintained 

An aesthetic appeal may be your primary goal for growing a cedar tree. It also may be something you have never considered. 

No matter which side you lean toward, a happy and healthy cedar tree looks better. 

You can trim your tree and get so many benefits from just this one action. 

Now, your branches will not be overcrowded, but your cedar tree itself is likely to look more maintained, if not carefully sculpted, for the intention of appearance. 

What else is trimming your tree good for, beyond disease avoidance and visual appeal? 

Well, general growth, of course!

6. Encourages General Growth And Cedar Tree Structure As It Ages

While it is important to think about things such as best and worse case scenarios, things your cedar tree gets attention over or even worse case scenario for your cedar tree, the middle ground is key. 

Trimming a cedar tree can significantly help it maintain its ability to grow over a period because you keep it healthy and cared for. 

The structure of the cedar tree also benefits when branches are kept relatively even, and your cedar has the chance to focus its energy on growth and self-maintenance rather than fighting disease or being weighed to one side.  So, if you want your cedar tree to reach it’s natural lifespan of 100-150 years, pruning is crucial.

Even if you are at the point where you have to prune a tree to solve some issues, your tree will reap this benefit, regardless. So worth it!

5 Simple Tips To Know When Trimming Your Cedar Tree

Alright, get excited! It’s the moment you’ve been waiting for: the 5 best tips for trimming cedar trees.

We know it has been a journey to get to this point, but the background knowledge above could play a big role in how successful your trimming and/or pruning efforts are.

Here are a few steps you can take to ensure you are trimming your cedar tree effectively. 

Of course, like anything, there will always be a bit of variability depending on your situation and your tree (or trees, we don’t know!)

They are pretty standard places to start, though, so we feel confident that you will leave this piece feeling ready to care for your cedar like never before.  

Without further ado, the 5 things to keep in mind:

1. Locate Which Area Needs Trimming

Cedar trees have live zones and dead zones. It is important to know that pruning around dead zones can cause more problems and your tree will risk permanent deformation. 

You should search the live zone of the tree to see what dead parts you need to prune away.

The University of Idaho Extension explains the dead zone is that part of the tree branches closest to the trunk where leaves may not grow or branches may differ from their external-facing relatives. 

You should locate the live zone, where leaves are actively and clearly growing, and see what dead branches or sections may need to be removed within that part of the cedar tree’s foliage.  

2. Sanitize Shears

The University of Missouri’s IMP helps us out here by telling us about the following ways to sanitize shears between uses. 

Not only does this preserve your shears for longer, keeping them from rusting at a young age, but it also helps to keep any disease from accidentally being spread between different trees.

Two of the main types of alcohol you can use for sanitation are ethanol or isopropyl. You can simply wipe the blades without needing much of a second thought.

Both types of alcohol can be found at the grocery store pharmacy. So, keep an eye out for labels and prices before you decide on one. 

If you own rubbing alcohol, this typically will contain a high isopropyl alcohol content which you can use to disinfect and shine your blades after just a few moments. So, save a little cash and use what you have on hand.

You can also combine 9 parts of water with one part bleach, though this takes longer to make and requires the blades to soak. Realistically, you will want to stick with the alcohol option.

Regardless of which method you are comfortable with or have access to, sanitizing your tools is an essential part of the pruning/trimming process. 

Taking care of your tree is minimized when you use tools that might spread disease and actively harm new plants.  

3. Keep Tools Sharp

This may not be something that you think of right off the bat. That’s okay, most people probably don’t. 

However, keeping your tools sharp is a huge part of successfully trimming your cedar tree. Dull blades can also give way to significant damage. 

Think of it like this- instead of resulting in a clean cut, using dull blades will cause rough, uneven ones. Your bark (and what’s left of the branch) might tear more because of this, and larger wounds will appear.

Hopefully, by now you can see the direct correlation between the size of a wound, the time it takes to heal, and how a tree is extra susceptible to problems during that healing stage.

4. Avoid Trimming Too Much Off The Top Of Your Cedar Tree

Taking too much off the top of your tree, also known as topping a tree, most often occurs when a tree has bypassed the area it was expected to fill. 

To avoid this and consider where you planted your tree to begin with.  

However, we know this is not likely something in your control unless you have lived on or owned land for decades. 

So, when topping/trimming a cedar tree, you should be careful to never take more than ¼ of the tree’s entire height. Trimming as little as possible from the top is ideal. 

The top of the cedar tree grows back at a painstakingly slow pace, so you will want to be prepared for this new appearance for a good amount of time.

5. Use The Proper Pruning Tools

If you use a good pair of bypass hand pruners like these Gonicc 8” Professional Premium Titanium Bypass Pruning Shears, your tree will be in good hands. These small hand trimmers can cut through 3/4 inch branches, depending on species.

If you need a little further reach, this Fiskars PowerGear2 Bypass Lopper will surely do the trick. They are 32 inches long, and can cut through branches 2 inches thick with ease.

Both products are meant for trimming and pruning trees, so you will have the right tools for your needs.

Just do not forget what we said above about keeping those tools clean… and sharp!

Keeping Cedar Trees Healthy Long-Term

While the preventative trimming and curative pruning practices are important to helping your cedar live a long life full of growth, they are not the only factors to be considered. 

Here are a few other things to keep in mind when caring for a cedar tree:

Keep Your Cedar Tree Hydrate

Like every other plant, cedar trees need water. They must receive enough water to help them make use of things like nutrients, sunlight, and other things that help them grow.

Even if all other factors are just right, a lack of water creates a big issue when it comes to the ability of a cedar tree to maintain a stable growth rate.  

Especially if you live in a region with less rainfall. This is something you should always keep in the back of your mind.

Sprinklers used at intervals throughout the day can help to keep this shallow-rooted plant hydrated without being over-watered.  

You might try this Orbit Battery Operated Sprinkler Timer with a Valve to regulate your tree’s hydration levels. It can run 4 stations with up to 8 start times. It can also run from 1-240 minutes at a time.

As long as the soil remains moist, but does not have pools of water, you should be in good shape!

Keep Your Cedar Tree Fertilized

A 30-10-10 fertilizer is great for cedar trees. 

Yeah, great, but…what is that??

Those 3 numbers you see above are called an NPK value. This is a formula that deals with the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium levels of fertilizer.

As you can now see, this formula has a balanced amount of potassium and phosphorus while containing less nitrogen, because cedars do not need as much of it. 

The NPK ratio allows for plants to get the nutrients they need, as opposed to potentially wasting nutrients. If a tree does not need certain nutrients, it will not absorb them.

If you are looking to get a good 30-30-10 fertilizer, we recommend you start with this Southern Ag Max Acid Water Soluble Fertilizer. Not only does it offer just the right NPK ratio, but it is also water-soluble, which is an important factor when talking about fertilizing cedar trees.

Why Is Trimming Cedar Trees Important?

Alright, finally, before we can discuss the important factors to keep in mind while trimming or pruning cedar trees, we need to mention why proper pruning matters so much. 

Improperly pruned cedar trees can pose a threat to the community for a few reasons. We want you to have this information so you do not waste time, money, or effort to get the best results.

Avoiding Undue Stress On Your Cedar Tree

If you improperly prune your cedar tree, you open it up to many stressors, which are unhealthy at best and detrimental at worst. 

Instead of helping (or saving) a tree, improper pruning practices can cause more damage than existed at the start. 

If you cut the cedar tree too close to or too far from the trunk, your tree will be the subject of irreversible damage.  

What does it mean, though?

The California Rare Fruit Growers help define these types of cuts, between a stub cut and a flush cut.

A stub cut is a cut made too far outside of the branch collar (too far from the trunk of the tree.) 

The remaining stub will have enough material left to become diseased as the stub itself decays. This presents a problem when the disease spreads to the rest of the healthy cedar tree.

A flush cut is the exact opposite, where the cut is far too close to the trunk. This cut has been made inside of the branch collar, which causes unnecessary damage to the stem tissues of the cedar tree.

So, if you cut too close to the trunk, it will leave the open wound on the cedar tree where the branch once sat open for longer. The time this kind of cut can take to heal leads to damage such as cracks, decay, and other fissures in the tree trunk.

Essentially, if you cut a cedar branch too much or too little, decay is imminent.

This is a great example of why it is so important to do your research or, if you are most comfortable, enlist the help of an expert.

Limits Potential Weakening Of A Branch That Could Fall Later

On the same note about how issues in pruning can lead to decay, decay can lead to other parts of your tree severely weakening. 

Not only is this not healthy, but it is also dangerous. Eventually, with little warning, a cedar branch could very well fall from the tree and cause a boatload of problems.

We’ll leave you with those notes for now, but trust us when we tell you that taking the time to prune correctly is so worth the effort. Not only for you and your tree but for those around you.

That’s A Wrap!

Alright, well, that’s what we’ve got for you today. 

We hope this helps you as you work to care for your cedar tree in the best way. 

Thank you for taking the time to read this piece!

Best of luck as you continue along your tree journey, and remember- we are always here to help guide you along the way.  

Until next time, cheers.


Badrulhisham, N., & Othman, N. (2016). Knowledge in tree pruning for sustainable practices in urban setting: improving our quality of life. Procedia-Social and Behavioral Sciences, 234, 210-217.

Drenou, C. (2000). Pruning trees: the problem of forks. Journal of Arboriculture, 26(5), 264-269.

Kojima, Y., Kato, Y., Takeda, H., & Yoon, S. L. (2013). Changes of extractives in pruning shoot of Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) during storing and pelletizing. Transactions of the Materials Research Society of Japan, 38(3), 467-471.

Pruning vs Trimming Cedar Trees? How to Trim a Cedar Tree

No Comments By Marwick Cedar Trees cedar trees, cedar trees fraser valley, Cedar Trees in Seattle

Nothing boosts a property’s curb appeal like lush and lovely cedars. But if they are not properly cared for, those aesthetically pleasing trees can turn into an eyesore real fast. Are your cedar trees in getting the TLC they deserve?

Trimming and pruning are two of the most important things you can do to preserve the beauty and the health of your trees. Proper maintenance will not only help your cedars grow strong, but also keeps them looking their absolute best all year-round.
While many folks think tree trimming and pruning fall under the same heading, you might be surprised to learn they are not the same thing. Read on to learn the difference between the two techniques.


What is Cedar Tree Trimming?

Tree trimming is all about the aesthetics. To help maintain your trees’ shape and beauty, you’ll need to thin out overgrown branches. Otherwise, cedars can grow wild, leaving your trees looking unbalanced and unruly. Left unchecked, excess branch growth can interfere with your neighbour’s yard, or grow too close to power lines, posing a threat to you and your property.

Excessive growth can also have an impact on the overall health of your cedar trees in Seattle. Overgrown branches can reduce the amount of moisture and light your cedars receive, leading to browning and sometimes even death.

The optimal time of year for trimming your cedars is between late winter and early spring when the trees are dormant. Trimming your trees before summer is less stressful for your cedars and will help them recover for the growing season.

What is Cedar Tree pruning?

Unlike trimming, tree pruning is done primarily for the overall well-being and structure of your cedar trees. You don’t want to deal with something like brown leaves or damage from pests.

Pruning is a major part of maintaining the health of your tress. This delicate and strategic process will not only help protect your cedars from pests and diseases, but also stimulates strong growth.

Tree pruning involves removing dead, unhealthy, or damaged branches, promoting proper air-flow and prolonging the life of your cedars. Tree pruning should typically be done during the growing season, from late in the summer until early fall.

Are your stunning cedar trees in Seattle in need of some sprucing up? Whether you tackle this project head-on or hire a professional arborist, trimming and pruning your cedars will help keep them healthy and beautiful all year long.

How to Trim a Cedar Tree

A cedar tree has a distinctive shape with needle-like leaves that can reach up to five feet in diameter. This evergreen is relatively easy to care for, but it does have some special needs, such as pruning its long branches and doing deep root wor”.

To care for your cedar tree, trim its branches using a pruning saw. When you do this, make sure that you leave healthy branches near the main trunk, but the ones that are dry and dying should be removed.

If any parts of the tree are rubbing against another structure or surface, remove it to protect your home..

You’ll want to make sure that you keep enough water in the soil to keep it moist year-round. To do this, dig a large hole 12 inches deep in early fall, place your tree inside it and then backfill around the tree with soil. Water it well. This will help it stay hydrated all winter long even in places where there is no snow cover. Trim your cedar tree in the early spring before new shoots appear. Make sure that you do this every year to promote healthy growth.

If you don’t have a lot of time to carefully trim your cedar tree, purchase professional help instead. Most landscaping companies will offer cedar care services, including trimming branches and watering the soil for an annual fee.

What is Deep Root Pruning For Cedar Trees?

Deep root pruning is the process of cutting off branches that emerge from the base of a cedar tree. This can be done in late winter after the snow has melted to around six inches.

The main goal of deep root pruning is to allow light and water to reach the branch tips and trunk, which will lead to less dense growth and more attractive branches.

Pruning the roots and top growth will also make it easier for you to stake your cedar tree to make it grow taller and straighter. However, you should only stake your cedar tree if it’s in an area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily.

Cedar Tree Trimming Tips

Here are some tips for trimming cedar trees:

  • First, you should prepare the tools and equipment that you need: a saw, loppers or shears, and a ladder.
  • Place the ladder at the very top of the tree’s trunk and step on it while balancing on your knees. And make sure to place one foot firmly on each side of the trunk while leaning over for stability.
  • Then, use your saw or loppers to cut any branches that are touching or close to any power line.
  • Lastly, use the shears to cut “dry” branches.
  • When cutting dry branches, use caution because you can easily hurt yourself. Be careful not to cut any wires.

When Should Cedar Trees Be Pruned?

If you have a cedar tree in your yard, make sure to prune it in the fall. This will help prevent insect infestation, as well as sap drip.

If you don’t, they may produce sap that can drip onto windows and doors during winter storms – not something anyone wants on their new car!

Prune just before cold weather begins with loppers or shears. Leave enough foliage on the branches for protection against diseases and insects. Then give the area around the trunk some good mulch which will help protect roots during cold temperatures.

Use sharp tools. Use caution before cutting into the bark. Make cuts that are parallel to the ground and follow the contours of the tree – not straight across.

Do not prune branches so low they could touch the ground, as this leaves growth spaces for insects to hide in. You can also provide shade for them by covering branches with shade netting or other material.

If you have a large tree, it’s best to leave all of its branches with foliage on them in late winter or early spring, when temperatures are low. It makes it easier to manage in summer with lawn mowers and weed-wackers (never haul your leaf-blower around during cold spells).


For great looking cedar trees, contact Fraser Valley Cedars today!

How to cut and shape a cedar © Geostart

Topic: World of plants

Siberian cedar is rarely grown in private gardens, but some gardeners like different types of this tree much more than ornamental spruce, pine or thuja. If a seedling is used in landscape design, in the future it will definitely need not only sanitary, but also formative pruning, which ensures a high decorative effect of the culture. What you should know about carrying out this procedure, how appropriate it will be when growing cedar, and what features of a haircut a gardener should pay attention to in the first place - read on.

Is it possible to cut cedar

Cedar shoots are very sensitive to any mechanical damage, which is why many experienced gardeners do not recommend cutting the plant at all. However, there is no categorical prohibition on performing this procedure, therefore, if for greater decorativeness it is required to remove individual branches or limit the growth of a cedar tree in height, you can take a pruner.

Of course, in order not to disrupt the development of the cedar and not provoke the incorrect development of its branches, all actions should be performed as carefully as possible, avoiding the removal of large branches (their cuts can eventually turn into huge, poorly healing wounds). It is also worth considering that with a small number of shoots on young plants, each copy will be valuable, so instead of removing the wrong growing shoot, it makes sense to simply fix it with wire in the right direction and allow it to continue growing.

When to start shaping

In the first five years of growing cedar, it is better not to prune, and for older plants, it is advisable to plan this procedure in early spring. It is possible to completely abandon the haircut only if, after planting a two- or three-year-old seedling in the area, in the first 3–5 years of its cultivation, regularly break off the lateral buds on the axial shoot. As a result, all nutrients will enter one central bud of the axial shoot, the growth of which in one season will increase by 2–2. 5 times, and the need to trim side branches in the future will generally disappear.

Break out lateral buds or remove branches growing to the side in order to form the crown of the plant, preferably in the autumn-winter period, before the start of vegetative processes in the tissues. Evidence of the good health of the tree and its active adaptation in a new place will be the dark green color of the needles and the growth of the axial shoot in the first years of cultivation within 5–10 cm per year.

Video: shaping the crown of a cedar tree

Why a tree needs trimming

As with the cultivation of any other tree species, branches can appear on the cedar broken, improperly growing or affected by diseases and pests, which must be removed during regular sanitary pruning (carried out annually, in early spring). In addition, such a haircut is also relevant for giving the crown of the plant the desired decorative shape, in accordance with the general requirements of the landscape design of a particular area.

The most effective and popular option for the formation of cedar will be the creation of a low-pubescent, spreading and multi-topped crown, which is due to the laying of female flower buds mainly in the upper peripheral part of the cedar.

How to properly shape and trim

The nuances of the cedar pruning procedure depend on the type of haircut being performed. For example, you can only limit the growth of branches in width or height, carry out shallow pruning, or remove dead and damaged areas, redirecting nutrients to the developing parts of the tree. In order not to be mistaken in the actions performed, it is worth learning more about each possible option for cutting a cedar.

Removal of the lower branches

Unpruned cedars look majestic and powerful, largely due to the dense lower branches. However, when they grow in a small area, this can create an obstacle to the movement of people along the garden path or restrict the access of vehicles, which is why gardeners have to remove individual shoots of the plant.

It is best to start removing extra branches from the very bottom, slightly stretching each before cutting. Large branches are cut in several steps, removing no more than one whorl in five years. Within 10–15 years, the lower branches should be cut to a height of 2–2.5 m from the ground surface, which is most conveniently done with a sharp pruner. The places of cuts must be treated with a garden pitch, which will prevent infections and pathogens from entering the deeper layers of the plant.

Is it possible to make a cedar low

Pinching a cedar to limit its height is possible, and involves removing the growing point on the central shoot, which will stimulate the growth of lateral branches as a result. At the same time, this method of forming a crown is not relevant in all cases, because for a plant that is ill or recently transplanted to the site, such actions often cause developmental disorders or even death.

If necessary, you can pinch the side shoots, always controlling the length of the remaining part. At the tip of each pruned branch, at least 1-2 short green branches should remain.

Shallow pruning

Shallow pruning of cedar involves cutting its shoots no more than the length of the outer green branches. If you cut further, the plant will take much longer to recover. The dense arrangement of branches creates a "dead zone" near the trunk, where the buds simply die and cannot contribute to the emergence of new shoots for the further growth of the tree. This means that any deep cutting of an adult plant should be done with care, and the shaping procedure should preferably be done only while the plant is young and all of its shoots have many healthy buds.

Video: Pruning coniferous plants

Pruning for structure

Preservation of the natural structure of different types of cedar in many cases allows you to maintain a beautiful and solid shape of the plant, which ensures a high decorativeness of the site. First of all, this applies to Lebanese and Atlas cedars, which in their natural habitat have the shape of a soft pyramid, with one central shoot-leader.

If, for any reason, two such conductors have formed during the growing of the plant, the weaker one must be removed by cutting at the point of its exit from the trunk. After performing the procedure, it is not necessary to use special wound balms or sealants, the tree should heal itself.

Pruning dead or damaged areas

Removing dead or diseased shoots from a plant is called “sanitary pruning” and can be done annually, preferably in early spring or when preparing the cedar for wintering. Regardless of the season, action should only be taken on a clear and dry day, since a high level of humidity outside increases the likelihood of infection of the plant with fungal ailments.

When it comes to removing diseased and pest-damaged branches, the cut material must be burned immediately to prevent the spread of the problem. Of course, as with other types of trimming, the cutting tool must be well disinfected.

Frequency of the procedure

To form a cedar crown, it is enough to shorten the lower and lateral branches for several years in a row, pinching the central shoot once to limit the height of the tree. Sanitary pruning of cedar will require much more, because in the process of growth and development of the plant, weak, disease-damaged and broken branches periodically appear, which have to be cut almost every year.

The best time to perform the procedure is the beginning of spring, when there is no active sap flow in the shoots of the tree after winter dormancy.

Cedar pruning is optional but often useful when growing this tree, especially if the plant is cultivated for ornamental purposes. Having prepared properly for the implementation of the described actions, you will not harm him, and the garden in the country will receive a majestic addition.


Komarova Vasilisa

Pruning cedar in the country

Contents of the article:

Modern gardeners can be divided into several types. Some try to save on vegetables and fruits, while others grow them to ensure their environmental friendliness. The third want to experiment with plants, the fourth want to breathe fresh air, the fifth want to save money, benefit, fresh air, and the beauty of nature.

The last 3 types see the garden in the broadest sense of the word. Such gardeners tend to grow almost everything. The so-called cedar, or rather the Siberian (cedar) pine, may be of considerable interest to them. Real cedar is a more thermophilic breed and includes 4 species: Lebanese, Atlas, Himalayan and Cypriot. The most frost-resistant of them - Lebanese - withstands frosts down to -30 C. The most fundamental difference between cedars and pines is that the first needles are usually collected in bunches of 30-40 pieces, the Siberian pine bunches consist of 5 needles, and the forest there are only 2-3 of them.

It will purify the air and strengthen the body its plantations are practically sterile. The benefit lies in the presence of B vitamins, vitamin A (or carotene), E.

Some doctors believe that the use of pine nuts improves blood composition, as well as the prevention of tuberculosis and anemia. Cedar oil is also highly valued. Some believe that even pieces of cedar wood can be beneficial.

Where it grows

Although the cedar pine is Siberian in origin, it grows in various parts of the country: in the Moscow region, and near St. Petersburg, and even in the Arctic. Compared to ordinary forest pine, it is more demanding on the soil: dry sandy soils are unsuitable for it; it prefers sandy or loamy, moist, fertile soils. Air quality is also important for normal development: pine is very sensitive to air pollution. This is true for those whose plots are located near the city. So planting cedar pines near industrial enterprises with increased gas contamination or dustiness of the air is undesirable.

Quantitative question

If you want to plant for beauty, then one tree is enough. If you still hope to get nuts from them, then in order for the seeds to turn out in the year of fertilization and large enough, a group of 3-4 trees is required. In general, those who want to have their own seeds should tune in to creating a small cedar forest. The fact is that these plants are cross-pollinated (wind-pollinated). It is desirable that they are not related, so it is better to take seedlings from different places. It is better to plant them at distances of 5-8 m. But between them you can plant undersized fruit trees and berry bushes. Some recommend sowing lupins around cedar pines. This green fertilizer improves their growth and accelerates development, bringing the start of fruiting closer.

When are the bumps?

Cedar pine can be propagated both by seeds and vegetatively. Propagation by seeds is mainly used for reforestation. But with simple cultivation from seeds, Siberian pines usually begin to bear fruit in 18-20, at the earliest 15 years. Therefore, growing it from seeds for their own sake is meaningless. After all, cones can not wait. For this purpose, it is more reasonable to obtain early-growing seedlings by grafting cuttings of cedar pine onto forest pine or seedlings of cedar itself. Or buy them at the store. A grafted tree can produce the first cones with seeds for 4-5 years. The physiological characteristics of this breed allow it to be propagated by cuttings. But this is possible only in special greenhouses, and the technology is quite laborious.

Those who want to have cedar trees on their plot just for the sake of improving the air and beauty can grow them from seeds.

To do this, nuts prepared for sowing must first be stratified for 3 months in the cold. Initially, it is recommended to soak for 3 days, changing the water daily. To accelerate germination, it is advisable to put EM1 into the Baikal solution for 2.5 hours after soaking in water. This technique also allows you to increase germination in comparison with untreated by 20%. In this case, the seeds remaining on the surface should be removed as empty. It is advisable to pickle full-weight seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate, and then mix with a wet substrate (sand, peat, sawdust, etc. ) in a ratio of 1: 2 and place in the cold. If there are few seeds, then they can be placed in bags of several layers of loose fabric. In order not to have to stratify, some sow seeds in the fall (late September - early October). They are recommended to be sown in a greenhouse or greenhouse on a loose peat-soil substrate. Here crops are protected from birds. In addition, seedlings grow 1.5-2 times faster in protected ground than in open ground. It can also be grown outdoors, but the sowing must be kept under a film until germination. It is desirable to apply fertilizer in the sowing furrows. From old fertilizers, it is recommended to apply 1 g of superphosphate and 2 g of ash mixed with 20 g of peat. Of the new ones, AVA complex fertilizer is suitable. It is enough 10-12 g/sq.m. There should be a distance of 15-20 cm between the furrows, the seeds should be planted to a depth of 3 cm. It is desirable to cover the sowing surface with a layer of loose mulch of 1 cm. During the season, 3-4 weedings may be required.

They get sick too!

Fusarium disease caused by the Fusarium fungus can cause great damage to seedlings. The disease manifests itself in the form of reddening of the stems of seedlings, followed by the formation of a constriction, falling and drying out. As a prevention and treatment of fusarium, some recommend watering furrows with sown seeds and seedlings with a 0.4% (4 g / 1 l) solution of potassium permanganate. For longer protection, it is advisable to saturate the soil with beneficial microflora that suppresses pathogens. To do this, you can shed (preferably a week before sowing) with a concentrated solution of Baikal EM1 fertilizer (1/2 cup per bucket) or (which is more effective) Alirin-B (2 tablets / 10 l).


Seedlings should be planted after 3-5 years. When planting any seedling, it is necessary to dig a hole, the volume of which is 30% larger than that of the root system. The excavated soil must be mixed with fertilizers (peat or humus and ash, or AVA fertilizer), in addition, it is advisable to add 3-4 handfuls of forest litter from under the coniferous forest to it. The latter contributes to a better development of mycorrhiza on the roots, which provides additional mineral nutrition.

An indicator of good survival and growth of cedar seedlings is dark green needles, spreading crown, growth of axial shoot in the first years of at least 5-10 cm per year.

Forming the crown

As with ordinary fruit trees, it is advisable to form Siberian pine trees. The so-called "garden forms" of the crown are suitable for them - low-pubescent, sprawling. To get more cones, it is better that it turns out to be multi-topped, since female flower buds are laid along its periphery, mainly in the upper part. The lower branches up to a height of 2-2.5 meters can be removed in the first 10-15 years of the tree's life, cutting 1-2 over several years. At the same time, it is recommended to cut the branches into a ring - “flush” with the tree trunk. In this case, the wounds heal faster. To prevent infection with spores of wood-destroying fungi, cover the cuts with garden pitch.

Pruning can be omitted if, in the first 3-5 years after planting a 2-3 year old seedling, break off the lateral buds on the axial shoot. In this case, all nutrients and growth substances enter one central bud of the axial shoot. The growth of this shoot per season increases by 2-2.5 times, and the need for pruning lateral shoots subsequently disappears. It is desirable to break out lateral buds or cut off lateral shoots in the autumn-winter period, before the start of the growing season.

In the first two years after planting, mineral fertilizers are applied in small quantities: 30-40 g/m2. Moreover, if AVA fertilizer was applied as a planting mineral fertilizer, then in the next 2-3 years, the need may arise only for nitrogen fertilizer, and in rare cases for potash.

In conclusion, we can suggest growing cedar pines, if only for beauty and healthier air, because some low-growing bushes and trees can be planted next to ready-made seedlings. In addition, in the future, an extra tree can be cut down for the sake of valuable wood. Those who want to see cones in 4-5 years can be advised to ask someone for a cutting in the spring and plant it on an ordinary pine.

Professor of Moscow State University of Education, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Sciences I.I. Drozdov

Any natural talent is fully revealed only in certain favorable conditions, with appropriate education. So Siberian cedar - only with appropriate attention and targeted care, it fully realizes its rich natural potential.

Pinus cembra (Arolla Pine).

Trees in wild cedar forests are not productive enough. Here they are formed under the conditions of biogenosis, a kind of plant complex with high environmental properties, the possibility of side use of the forest and the production of valuable wood in mature forest stands.

In the village cedar forests, original cedar orchards, formed and maintained by man, the trees are presented in all their splendor.

Trees with lush, evergreen crowns, as well as possible, decorate the landscapes near the village, ennobling them with their colorful appearance. Phytoncides revitalize the atmosphere, the walnut harvest in the cedar forests near the village is 5-6 times higher than the harvest of forest plantations almost every year.

However, with all the attractiveness of the cedar, growing it is more difficult than other conifers (Scots pine, larch, spruce). Foresters call the culture of Siberian cedar a school of patience.

Its seeds are characterized by deep dormancy and germinate only after a winter stay in the cold, at least 3-4 months. Cedar crops require protection from rodents and birds. The first ten years the cedar grows slowly, reaching a height of 1.5 m.

However, in the future, this breed is able to thank for the attention to it. Cedar gets along well in individual plots, near buildings. At 30 years old, it reaches a height of 9 meters, forms a lush crown, reaching 3 meters in diameter.

Pinus koraiensis, cedar seed. Tall, slender tree over 40 m tall with a dense crown.

By this time, there is little space for spruce, Scotch pine and larch, they are cramped on the site, and there is a problem with their felling.

Siberian cedar is propagated mainly by seed, less often by vegetative means (grafting, rooting of cuttings).

It is preferable to import Siberian pine seeds from the plains and low-mountain regions of Western Siberia. When breeding this breed in the European part of Russia, it is better to focus on the spring sowing period (end of April, first half of May).

To do this, the seeds are preliminarily prepared, stratified for at least 3 months in the cold, observing the following procedure.

Seeds are soaked for 3 days, changing the water daily. Benign seeds during this period swell and fall to the bottom of the vessel. Empty and poor-quality seeds remain on the surface, they are removed .

Seeds of good quality are dressed in an aqueous solution of potassium permanganate. Then their seeds are mixed with a moist (50%) substrate (sand, peat, sawdust, conifers, etc.) in a ratio of 1:2 and placed in the cold (under snow, in a refrigerator, etc. ).

With a small amount of seeds, they can be placed in bags of several layers of loose fabric. It is important that during the entire period of stay in the cold, the seeds are moist . Under the snow, they retain moisture well, in the refrigerator they must be periodically moistened. Seeds in bags can be placed in plastic bags without closing tightly.

Before sowing, the seeds are separated from the substrate, again pickled in a strong solution of potassium permanganate (up to a day) and dried for sowing.

It is better to plant them in a greenhouse, hotbed, etc. on a loose peat-soil substrate. Here crops are reliably protected from damage by birds. Under comfortable conditions, seed germination increases, seedlings grow 1.5-2 times faster than in open ground.

At the bottom of the sowing furrows before sowing, it is desirable to apply at the rate of 1 meter: superphosphate 1 g, potash fertilizers - 0.5 g or wood ash - 2 g, mixed with 20 g of peat. Distance between seed lines - 15-20 cm.

Seeding rate - 30 g (125-150 seeds) per 1 meter. The depth of seed placement in the soil is 3 cm. The surface of the crops is covered with a 0.5-1 cm layer of loose mulch (peat, sawdust or other covering material). During the season, it is necessary to weed and loosen the soil 3-4 times.

Before emergence of mass shoots (10-12 days), watering is required . In the future, the seedlings develop a fairly deep root system.

To protect crops from infection of seedlings caused by the Fusarium fungus, in addition to preventive dressing of seeds, it will be necessary to pour sowing furrows with seeds sown in them with a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate.

When lesions appear, the stalks of seedlings turn red, a constriction forms, they fall and dry out. Control measures: the first 2 weeks seedlings are treated with a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate 1-3 times with a solution flow rate of up to 10 liters per 1 m3. 4x0.4 m, where they are grown for 3-5 years to obtain larger seedlings. It is allowed to store seedlings dug out before the start of the growing season for 2 weeks in the cold.

Bundles of seedlings (50-100 pieces) are packed in wet burlap, then in polyethylene film and placed in a basement or in a snow pile prepared in advance under a layer of sawdust.

It is possible to grow seedlings with closed roots, ie in peat, plastic or other containers prepared for seedlings, at least 8 cm high and 200-300 cm 3 in volume.

The containers are filled with a substrate from a mixture of peat and loam (1:1) with the addition of a mixture (10 l) of granulated superphosphate - 50 g, potassium salt - 25 g, dolomite lime 250 g.

The containers are filled with substrate in mid-April and placed on the ground in the greenhouse. Cedar seeds after stratification are washed, pickled for a day in a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate and germinated 7-10 days before sowing on wet sand or wet burlap.

Sprouted seeds are sown in 1 piece in each container, covered with peat, sand or sawdust with a layer of 1 cm and watered with a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate (5 l per 1 m of container surface).

Care consists in timely watering, loosening the surface of the substrate two or three times, removing weeds. If lesions of seedlings (fusarium) are found, they are watered with a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate. If several seedlings have died, empty spaces are supplemented with germinated seeds or seedlings from additional crops.

Cultivation period - 2-3 years. In the first case, seedlings are grown for 2 years under a film cover, in the second - the first year in closed ground, the next 2 years in open ground from mandatory regular watering . The slightest overdrying of a small amount of substrate has a detrimental effect on plant growth.

Grown seedlings are taken out of containers or transplanted directly in peat pots into large containers (paper-plastic milk bags, ceramic flower pots, plastic bags, etc. ) or planted in the soil of a tree school (0.4x0.4 m ) for their germination and obtaining 6-8-year-old seedlings.

Fortune-telling runes are hand-carved from cedar, which greatly enhances the magical properties.

Seedlings of 6-8 years of age are more reliable than seedlings when transplanting cedar to a permanent place. In the tree school, they are dug up with a clod of soil (0.2x0.2x0.2 m) and transferred to the landing site, after wrapping the clod with a film or a damp cloth. Seedlings with a closed root system, before planting, are freed from containers.

Planting of seedlings is carried out in areas with previously loosened (dug) not soddy loamy or sandy loamy soil. The planting hole is dug 30% more than the volume of the root systems of the seedlings.

The excavated soil is mixed with fertilizers (peat, humus, decomposed manure, wood ash), it is advisable to add 3-4 handfuls of forest litter from under the coniferous forest.

The latter contributes to better development of mycorrhiza (symbiosis of root endings and hyphae of forest fungi) on root systems, which provides good mineral nutrition of forest woody plants.

The prepared substrate is poured onto the bottom of the hole and the root system of the seedling is placed in the center of it so that its root neck (the border between the stem and the root system) is at the ground level of the site. Further, the hole is filled with prepared loose soil, compacted by trampling and watered (0.5 buckets).

Seeds for seedlings are placed linearly or in groups with a distance between them of at least 3 m. When laying garden-type plantations, seedlings are placed 4x5 m or 5x5 m. This provides a fairly complete light allowance for trees, promotes crown development and the formation of a good crop of cones further. With a rare standing of trees, the cedar begins to yield crops from the age of 18.

Care of seedlings

If a white coating appears on young shoots (more often manifested in wet weather), it is necessary to treat them with a solution of laundry soap. It is diluted in warm water, the foam is whipped and then the affected shoots are thoroughly washed 2-3 times with a sponge or soft cloth swab.

Otherwise, with the active development of whiteness shoots may die. The tree, however, does not die, but the annual growth is lost.

Essential oil. Cedar (Cedrus deodara). Pine family. Extraction method: steam distillation from wood.

Vegetative propagation of cedar, most often by grafting cuttings of cedar to cedar or cedar to Scotch pine, is carried out to clone valuable selected forms (in terms of growth intensity, decorativeness, yield), to accelerate the time for the appearance of the first cones.

A sexually mature plant develops from a cutting - scion taken from an adult tree from the upper female tier of the cedar crown. After 4-5 years, cones may appear on such a grafted tree.

Cedar cuttings can be rooted in special greenhouses, like blue spruce cuttings. But the technology of this process is quite laborious. In general, vegetative propagation of cedar is a rather complicated matter, and it is better to leave it to specialists.

Seed production of cedar is one of the main attractive qualities of this tree. In the free state, cedar grown from seed begins to form cones at the age of 18-20.

Siberian cedar is a monoecious tree, in the upper, most illuminated part of the crown, female ovules are located, below are male strobili. "Blossoms" cedar in June. Female "bumps" of crimson-violet color are hidden in the needles near the apical bud of the shoot.

Male "flowers", orange-crimson, collected in large "inflorescences" at the base of the shoots. After 3-5 days, they turn brown and fall off. Pollen is carried by the wind. After pollination, the female cones close, become green-brown, grow up to 2-3 cm, and until the next spring they are called "winter".

Fertilization and seed formation occurs from the end of August and throughout September. To ensure cross-pollination, it is desirable to have a group of cedars (from 3 or more).

To increase the reliability of pollination of female "flowers" in young cedars, artificial additional pollination can be carried out: shake off the pollen of male "flowers" on paper, place it in a jar and store it in the refrigerator for several days. As the female "flowers" open, apply pollen to them with a soft brush or gently blow off a piece of paper.

Cedar grows and bears fruit for several centuries. Near Yaroslavl, in the Tolgsky Monastery, about 50 cedars from the monastery garden, founded four centuries ago, have been preserved. Separate age-old fruit-bearing cedars are often found in the Yaroslavl region.

An alley of 150-year-old cedars is successfully fruiting near Suzdal. In the Ivanovo region, in the Ples tract near the town of Furmanov, a 120-year-old cedar grove (about 1 ha) bears fruit and gives natural renewal of the cedar.

In the Moscow region, near the town of Dolgoprudny, in the Klyazma parkleskhoz, there is a century-old grove of two hundred cedars. Near the city of Zaraisky in the Novinkovsky forestry of the Lukhovitsky forestry enterprise, a 25-year-old cedar plantation on an area of ​​3.2 hectares (about a thousand cedars) bears abundant fruit. In the Dmitrovsky district, near Yakhroma, M. V. Tvelenev conducts observations in a half-century-old grove with an area of ​​more than 3 hectares.

It is possible to plant new cedar groves not only in Siberia, but also in the European region of Russia. This is not only possible, but must be done.

More detailed information about the biology of the Siberian stone pine, methods of its reproduction and cultivation can be found in the books:

Bekh LI, Taran IV. Siberian miracle tree. Novosibirsk: "Nauka", 1979. - 126 p.

Drozdov I.I. Coniferous introducents in forest cultures. M.: MGUL. 1998. - 135 p.

Ignatenko M.M. Siberian cedar. M .: "Nauka", 1988. - 160 p.

Krylov G.V., Talantsev N.K.; Kozakova A. F. Cedar. Moscow: Forest industry. 1983. - 216 p.

Parfenov V.F. Complex in the cedar forest. M.: Timber industry, 1979. - 240 p.

Rodin A.R. Drozdov I.I. Guidelines for growing seedlings of Siberian cedar. M.: VASKHNIL, 1978. - 30 p.

Tvelenev M.V. Growing Siberian cedar outside the natural range. Moscow: TsBNTUleskhoz 1974. - 16 p.

Tvelenev M.V. Guidelines for the vegetative propagation of conifers (pine, cedar) by grafting in the summer. M.: VNIILM, 1982. - 10 p.

9. Yangutov A.I., Drozdov I.I. Artificial cultivation of Siberian stone pine // Itogi nauki i tekhniki. VINITI. A series of forestry and forestry. M.: 1989. - Issue. 5. - p. 60-91.

Siberian cedar is not related to the genus Cedar, which includes the Lebanese, Himalayan and Atlas cedars. Appearance and other signs indicate that this coniferous tree is a representative of the Scotch pine genus. The age of the Siberian cedar can reach 500 or more years. The known height of individual trees is 44 meters, and the diameter of the trunk can reach 2 meters.

For the inhabitants of Siberia, cedar was the source of life. This unique coniferous tree was used for housing and as a source of food. The healing properties of Siberian cedar have been known since ancient times, it stimulated a surge of energy and vitality. Even the sight of the Siberian cedar caused delight and forced not only to raise the head to the top, but also to bow it as a sign of respect. Like all conifers, Siberian cedar has a beneficial effect on the environment by purifying the air. A lush crown can be used to create a hedge, it will be no less spectacular in landscape design.

But the most important thing is that cedar can become a keeper of family traditions and a symbol of uniting different generations for many years to come.

Buy large-sized and seedlings of Siberian cedar in the company "Large Plants" can be ordered by phone (495) 514-56-32. When buying trees in bulk - a special price for you.

Designation Height cm Price, rub
Siberian cedar 40-60 800
60-80 1200
80-100 1500
100-120 2200
200-250 18000
250-300 22000
300-350 35000
Designation Height cm Price, rub
Siberian cedar EXTRA 300 54000
350 63000
370 66600
380 68400
400 72000
465 120000
520 130000
620 155000
625 155000
763 195000
  1. Planting of trees and plants - no guarantee:
    in the ground - 35% of the value of trees and plants - preparing holes, watering after planting /
    In pots - 25% of the value of plants and trees - watering after planting.
  2. Planting trees and plants - 1 year warranty
    - the cost of work is reduced by 50% of the cost of trees and plants,
    includes the following work - preparation, planting, watering, treatment from pests and diseases during the season, one-time sanitary pruning.
  3. Planting trees and plants - with a 2-year guarantee)
    - the cost of work is reduced by 65% ​​of the cost of trees and plants,
    includes the following works - pit preparation, planting, watering, pest and disease control during the season, two times sanitary pruning.

Additional payment is required for the purchase of fertile soil, various fertilizers and effective stimulants to accelerate growth, expanded clay for pits, various mulching products. Delivery of plants and additional components is paid separately.

Conditions for planting Siberian cedar

Siberian cedar favorably differs from other coniferous trees in size, height and trunk strength. Due to its size, it will become a reliable protection from the sun, and in twenty years it will begin to bear fruit. When determining the landing site, it should be borne in mind that the cedar grows up to forty meters, and the width of the trunk can be two meters. Consequently, soon the crown of the cedar will cover a fairly large area from the sun. Therefore, you should not be deceived by the small size of the seedling. For the shadow to be useful, you need to organize the landing site in such a way that the shadow falls on the outbuildings. Like all conifers, Siberian cedar is demanding on sunlight and space. When you prepare a place for a landing pit, you must maintain distances:

· at least two meters to buildings and structures;

· to a hedge at least 3 meters;

· at least five meters between cedars and trees of other species;

· for sparse landings in a group, a distance of at least eight meters.

The peculiarities of planting Siberian cedar are primarily related to the type of soil on which the seedlings are supposed to be placed. Before planting, the bottom and walls of the pit must be properly loosened to increase air penetration. If there is water in the soil, drainage must be arranged.

The age of seedlings recommended for transplantation is at least six years old, preferably 8-9 years old. When preparing a pit for planting a cedar, it is necessary to choose the right depth, given that the soil will settle ten centimeters. The diameter of the hole should be a third larger than the coma around the root of the seedling. The ends of the roots should not be intertwined and placed freely. We must not forget about the basal neck - it should be above ground level.

If the soil in your area is not very fertile, you should change the structure of the soil in the pit. By placing a fertile layer in the hole, you can add forest litter from under coniferous trees to it. Thanks to this, the tree will take root better, since there are microorganisms in the forest floor that create a single ecosystem together with the cedar.

After that, you need to carefully place the seedling in the hole, strictly vertically and carefully fill it with prepared soil, completely covering the roots. Don't forget about the position of the root neck. After that, you need to compact the soil around the trunk and water. For high-quality watering, create a border of earth around the edge of the hole so that it retains moisture. This water-holding border should be 2-3 centimeters lower. From above, the entire surface of the hole around the trunk is covered with mulch.

Planting Siberian cedar is not an easy task. The quality of work is influenced by many additional processes on which the final result depends. Therefore, we recommend contacting professionals who will perform these works with a guarantee and help in the further development of the tree. By ordering the service you get a guarantee for 1 or 2 years.

Cultivation of cedar seedlings and care of seedlings

The ideal place for the growth of cedar is loamy and sandy soils . Plus - a sufficient amount of sun, the presence of regular rainfall. In such a situation, the cedar does not require care, only decorative pruning and disease monitoring. During the summer heat, you can additionally irrigate the root space and the crown of the tree.

It is important to support the plant during the first years after planting. Cedar - moisture-loving plant , therefore, abundant regular watering will ensure the absorption of microelements necessary for development from the soil. Cedar cannot be watered with ice water . The optimum temperature is not lower than +15 C. Cedar loves "crown sprinkling". Watering is carried out according to the general rules: either early in the morning or after sunset.

Cedar requirements for illumination of the territory at different ages are not the same. After reaching 8-10 years, the need for light increases. Thanks to the presence of the sun, the tree develops more harmoniously, is distinguished by its decorative effect and health.

Bright light can also injure the seedling. Under natural conditions, young cedars grow "under cover" of neighboring plants. Care should be taken to ensure that your seedling receives similar protection. The early spring sun can harm the crown, so shelters are useful for the winter for the purpose of shading. Shelters will help protect the young plant from heavy snowfalls and breakage of branches.

Seedling care includes weeding . Juvenile cedar needs processing of the surrounding space. If weeds grow profusely in the area, it is better to take care to remove the huge and too annoying ones. There is no need for seedlings to compete for light, air and water.

Large size cedars look especially impressive. A beautiful stately tree will decorate any place, private territory, or city courtyard. There is an agricultural technique for planting large-sized plants - such plants should be entrusted to specialists. Only a person who has experience in planting seedlings and large-sized plants can do it correctly, take into account all planting factors and carry out a complete list of necessary work. In addition, the landing of a large-sized vehicle over 4 m requires the presence of special equipment.

Cedar care and pruning

Dense plantings of cedar along fences, sidewalks and paths are not only pleasing to the eye. These trees symbolize strength and health. Indeed, perhaps there are no more trees that are so diversely used by man. Wood has found the widest application in furniture production, shipbuilding, and construction. We eat pine nuts and extract oil from them. Needles, resin, nut shells, buds and young tops have healing and cosmetic properties. Even cedar bark is used in medicine!

It is especially useful to inhale phytoncides, biologically active substances that kill and inhibit the growth of pathogenic microbes and fungi. These substances are emitted by all parts of the cedar (trunk, needles, resin). As it turns out, it is easy to boost immunity and maintain your own health! Three or four trees on the site will fill the air with volatile substances and will promote healing. However, to begin with, the tree must be grown. When caring for cedar, it is important to provide the tree with:

- air permeability and moisture content of soils

- sufficient illumination at the growth site of

- seasonal feeding (one or twice a year)

- mulching of the aircraft

- pruning once a year 9000

2222 Crown pruning Cedar is carried out already in the first year of planting. It is customary to cut off the lower branches of cedars. It is important to do this not immediately, but to stretch the removal for about 5 years (no more than one whorl during this period). Branches up to a height of 2-2.5 m are subject to removal. Branches are removed “flush” - including a small section of the trunk. We prudently lubricate the cut point - to avoid infection with fungal spores. Possible pinching cedar - removal of a growing point on a shoot to stop growth in height and stimulate the formation of side shoots.

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