How to trim a satsuma tree

How to Grow and Care for a Satsuma Orange Tree

Common Name Satsuma orange, Satsuma, satsuma mandarin, unshu mikan, cold hardy mandarin
Botanical Name Citrus unshiu
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Evergreen citrus tree
Mature Size 10–15 ft. tall, 5–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Rich, moist
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 8-11 (USDA)
Native Area China

Satsuma Tree Care

When planting a satsuma tree, you should wait until the temperature remains consistently above 50 degrees during the day, for at least a week. This helps to ensure cold temperatures will not kill the plant in its vulnerable state and allows the tree to acclimate to mild temperatures before the heat of summer. If a hard frost does occur late in the spring season, cover the young sapling's branches loosely with a blanket to protect it.

Location is also important. Satsumas do not do well when exposed to wind, so in addition to choosing a location with plenty of sun, you will want some shelter provided by a building or a fence.

The Spruce / K. Dave

The Spruce / K. Dave

The Spruce / K. Dave


Most fruit trees require full sun conditions, and Satsumas are no exception. They should ideally get eight to 10 hours of direct sunlight, especially in spring during blossom and fruit formation.


Citrus trees prefer sandy, loamy soil with a slightly acidic pH. Satsumas are adaptable to different soil conditions such as rocks or clay, but will not tolerate salty or alkaline soils. The soil must have good drainage.


Satsuma trees need ample water, so plan on consistent and deep watering throughout the growing season. After planting, water every two to three days, and then once every week to ten days thereafter during the growing season. If you are experiencing a dry spell, watering will need to be more frequent to keep the soil moist.

Temperature and Humidity

Although Satsumas are more cold-hardy than other citrus trees, they still need consistently warm temperatures during their growing season. Cool (not cold) winters and hot, humid summers produce the best fruit harvest.

Mature trees can easily survive in short periods down to 14 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter. If temperatures dip lower than this, or if you have a young tree, implementing some cold protection strategies is recommended. Mounding the base of the trunk with around 2 feet of soil during these times can be beneficial (it should be removed again when the frosts pass). Alternatively, you could invest in a trunk wrap. Winter temperatures between 25 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit are actually said to enhance the sweetness of the fruits.


Satsuma trees benefit from regular fertilizing. It's best to fertilize in late January to early February when the tree is producing new growth. You may use a balanced 8-8-8 citrus fertilizer that contains nitrogen. A two-year-old tree can handle one to 1.5 pounds of fertilizer.

igaguri_1 / Getty Images

Types of Satsuma Orange

There are over 100 Satsuma cultivars to choose from. They can vary considerably in terms of when they mature, shape, color, and harvest quantity and quality. Some popular and readily available examples include:

  • 'Owari': This productive tree produces high-quality fruit that rarely produces seeds
  • 'Brown Select': This tree has a less droopy habit than most and has a dense, compact form. The rind easily separates from the flesh of the acidic, sweet fruit
  • 'Silverhill': The shape of the fruit on this tree is flatter than most, and it has a high sugar and low acid content, making it particularly sweet. The tree is known for being vigorous and productive, with a more upright growth habit than most varieties.
  • 'Early St. Ann': The fruit is ready for harvesting from mid-September through October—this is around a month earlier than most other cultivars.


Because Satsuma trees have a prostrate growth habit, pruning is essential to prevent fruit on low-lying limbs from touching the ground. The best time to prune your tree is early spring after the danger of frost. Prune any branches growing below 18 inches above the ground. Remove leaf debris from beneath the trees to help keep them clean and disease-free.

Propagating Satsuma Trees

Like most fruit trees, Satsuma trees sold commercially are usually grafted specimens, in which fruiting branches are grafted onto rootstock from another type of citrus, selected for its hardiness and disease resistance. Grafting is a delicate process that is difficult for amateurs, so citrus trees are usually not propagated outside the commercial industry. However, it is certainly possible to propagate a Satsuma tree by rooting a branch cutting. But be aware that the resulting tree is not likely to perform in the same way as the parent tree. If you want to try it, here's how:

  1. During the active summer growth period, use sharp pruners to clip several 4- to 6-inch branch segments, each containing a flexible green tip leading to firmer older wood. The cutting should have at least three sets of healthy leaves. Angle the cuts at 45 degrees.
  2. Remove the leaves from the lower two-thirds of the cutting. Dip the cutting in rooting hormone.
  3. Plant each cutting in a small pot filled with porous seed-starter potting mix. The bottom one-third of the cutting should be buried. Thoroughly moisten the potting mix, and press it firmly around the cutting to hold it in place.
  4. Place the cutting in a loosely secured plastic bag to hold in moisture, then place it in a location with bright, indirect light, at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
  5. Monitor the bagged cutting, moistening the potting mix when necessary. When the cutting has developed a good network of roots (you will feel resistance when lightly tugging on the cutting), loosen the plastic bag to allow the cutting to begin acclimating to drier conditions. It can take as many as six weeks or even longer for the cutting to develop roots.
  6. After several more weeks, when you see new green growth developing, the plastic bag can be removed entirely. Continue to grow the new tree in its container until it is large enough to transplant into the landscape or into a permanent patio container. It's not uncommon to grow the small tree in its starter container for a full year or more before transplanting it into the landscape.

How to Grow Satsuma Trees From Seed

It is no easy task to grow satsuma orange trees from seed, because the fruit is largely seedless (one or two seeds per fruit), and because it can take as much as eight years for the plants to mature into fruit-producing trees. Further, the resulting plant will likely look and behave differently than the parent tree, which is usually a grafted plant.

But if you want to try this method of propagation, peel open some ripe fruit and extract the seeds. You may have trouble finding them since satsumas are nearly seedless. Plant the seeds in small pots filled with a citrus tree potting mix, just barely covering the seeds. Moisten the potting mix, then place the post in loosely secured plastic bags and place them in a spot with very bright indirect light and warm temperatures (70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit; you may need to use a heating mat).

Periodically mist the potting mix to keep it damp. Within 30 to 60 days, the seeds should germinate and sprout. When the seedlings are a few inches tall, remove the plastic covering and move the pots to a sheltered outdoor location where they will receive shade during the midday hours. Grow them in the original starter pots until fall, at which time you can transplant them into larger pots and move them to a sheltered location for the winter.

It's common practice to grow Satsuma trees in pots for several years before they are large enough to plant in the landscape. While they are in pots, move the plants to a sheltered location for each winter period.

Potting and Repotting Satsuma Trees

Although Satsuma trees can grow to as much as 20 feet tall, they can be trained to stay smaller and can be grown in containers. Keeping your mature Satsuma pruned to about 5 or 6 feet tall and wide is a good rule of thumb. Use a fairly large container, at least 20 gallons in size, and fill it with a commercial citrus tree potting mix. Any material will suffice for the container, though large black plastic container is a standard choice for growing citrus trees. Make sure the pot has ample drainage holes.

The main benefit of planting Satsumas in containers is that they can be moved indoors during the fall and winter. Placed near a sunny window and watered regularly (mist the leaves to keep the humidity up, as indoor heating has a drying effect), your Satsuma will produce tasty fruit for you during the cold months.

Repotting is typically required every three or four years, or whenever the roots begin to outgrow the pot and fill the drainage holes. When repotting, lift the plant out of its exiting container, prune back 2 to 3 inches of the roots, then repot in the same container with some added fresh potting mix. (You can also pot up to a container about 25 percent larger than the old pot, but eventually this may become impractical).


Potted Satsuma trees are often moved indoors to a sunny window in regions that experience regular freezing temperatures. These trees can survive temps down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, but most growers take no chances when predictions call for extended below-freezing temps. In-ground trees can be protected with a frost blanket in regions where winter frost is common.

Withhold feeding during the winter months for young trees, but established trees more than two years old should be fed in late January or early February.


Satsumas are generally harvested between October and December, depending on the cultivar grown. The fruit doesn't do well hanging on the tree after maturity. Prompt picking when ripe is important, and they can then be stored in a refrigerator with temperatures between 32 and 36 degrees Fahrenheit.

As the fruit reaches maturity, the rind will become looser (separating a bit from the flesh), and the surface will become bumpier. The ripe fruit coloring can vary depending on the climate. In humid regions, the fruit may be ripe even while it is still green, and a reddish-orange hue is possible when night temperatures are cool.

Because the rinds are loose, it is best to clip the fruit from the tree rather than plucking. If you damage the rind when picking, it will lead to fast decay. Of all the citrus fruits, the satsuma is one of the most delicate, and care should be taken when handling it.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Although Satsuma trees are hardy compared to some other citrus varieties, they can be prone to a fungal disease called sour orange scab. This causes lesions on leaves, branches, and fruit. Thankfully, it doesn't usually affect the quality of the fruit flesh. Other fungal diseases are also possible, all best treated with a preventive fungicide spray.

Mites, scale, mealybugs, leafminers, and aphids are all possible insect pests, though Satsuma is somewhat more resistant to insect damage than other types of citrus.

How to Get Satsuma Trees to Bloom

The fragrant white blossoms of satsuma trees normally appear in early spring, from March to April. The green fruit becomes evident in August, turning orange in late September through December.

When a Satsuma doesn't flower or produce fruit, it is most often because the tree is not getting enough direct sunlight. These trees need at least eight hours, and preferably more, in order to produce robust flowers and fruit.

A lack of nutrients can also compromise the blooming period. Mature trees need a hefty feeding in January or February to support bud development.

Common Problems With Satsuma Trees

Satsuma is susceptible to some of the same fungal diseases common to other types of citrus (see above). In addition, Satsuma and other citrus species can be susceptible to chlorosis if grown in soil that is too alkaline. The main symptom is leaves that develop a light green color, often with darker veins. Take steps to lower the soil pH to a more acidic level to rectify this problem.

The other common complaint is from growers who take the "cold resistant" label too literally. Although these trees can survive an occasional cold snap down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, they are by no means tolerant of extended cold. In borderline regions, it is all too common for trees to experience branch die-back when cold winter temperatures kill off the branch tips. Fortunately, it's an easy matter to prune off these damaged branches. Unless the cold spell is prolonged, Satsuma trees usually survive in zones 8 to 11. Even zone 7 gardeners can succeed with this plant if they're willing to move potted trees indoors when the weather turns cold.

When Should You Prune Fruit Trees?

Every winter season in the Florida Panhandle is different. It can be wet or dry, frigid cold or unseasonably warm. We may have early frosts and early springs, or cold snaps in late march after fruit trees flower.  Because of this variability, it is impossible to predict the perfect time to prune fruit crops in our rather variable region, but there are some tried and true guidelines for pruning the most popular fruit crops in Northwest Florida.

Image Credit Matthew Orwat


Blackberries are unusual in that they do not build a large structure and fruit for years on the same branches (in general). They actually fruit on previous years’ growth which then die after fruit production. The canes that produce fruit are called the floricanes. As the floricanes are producing fruit, the blackberry plants are growing primocanes. These are the new canes that will produce fruit for the next season. By then, these canes will have matured in to floricanes. A few new blackberry cultivars exist that produce fruit on new growth as well, but most Florida adapted cultivars are of the standard type. For pruning purposes, it is best to remove the floricanes just after fruiting, but be sure not to cut the new growth (primocanes) because that wood will bear next year’s fruit. For more information about the blackberry, please see UF/IFAS publication The Blackberry.


Image Credit: Matthew Orwat

With blueberries older canes need to be removed to make room for younger, more productive canes. When a plant reaches four to five years old it is permissible to remove about 1/4–1/5 of the oldest canes each year, which amounts to about one to three of the oldest canes. Performing this task will ensure that no cane is more than three or four years old. Thus, blueberry plantings will be in a constant state of renewal and not become excessively woody and unproductive. To keep plants from becoming too tall, mature plants can be topped in the summer directly after fruit harvest. Removal of a few inches to a foot, depending on the cultivar, will stimulate the new growth that will bear the next year’s fruit. See the UF/IFAS publication, Blueberry Gardener’s Guide for more information.

Temperate Fruit Trees

Dormant Peach Tree. Image Credit UF/IFAS Environmental Horticulture Department

Pruning of temperate fruit trees (Peaches, Apples, Pears, Persimmons) should be done during the winter dormant period in most cases. This period, generally between December and February, allows for some latitude. Pruning later in the dormant season is better in most seasons since trees are more susceptible to freeze damage after pruning, and pruning stimulates the growth of the trees. In Northwest Florida, a February pruning is usually most desirable, depending on the season’s average high temperatures. Pruning for shape is also done in the summer months if necessary. This task should be limited to removing excessive growth and dead / diseased wood. See the following UF/IFAS publications, Training and Pruning Florida Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums and The Apple for more information.


Prolific producing muscadine cultivar ‘Granny Val’ – Image Credit Dr. Peter C. Andersen

Once harvest concludes, it is usually a grower’s natural inclination to immediately prune their muscadine vines. Pruning after harvest in early fall is not, however, best for maintaining plant condition and optimizing next year’s yield, especially if there is an early frost. Early frosts can surprise the plant before sugars have been moved to the roots for storage during dormancy. Therefore, waiting to prune in mid-January to mid-March will ensure the vine has had adequate time to go dormant and acclimate to the winter season. For more information please see the following Panhandle Ag-e News article titled Tips for Properly Pruning Muscadines. 


Jackson County citrus grove with branches allowed to near ground level. Image Credit Jose Perez, UF / IFAS

Pruning is not necessary for citrus in every case, as it is in many temperate fruits, to have excellent production quality and quantity. Citrus trees perform excellently with minimal pruning. The only pruning necessary for most citrus is removing crossing or rubbing branches while shaping young trees, removing dead wood, and pruning out suckers from the root-stock. Homeowners may choose to prune citrus trees to keep them small, but this will reduce potential yield in a commercial setting, since bigger trees produce more fruit.

Often, maturing Satsuma trees produce long vertical branches. It is tempting to prune these off, since they make the tree look unbalanced. To maximize yield, commercial Satsuma growers allow these branches to weep with the heavy load of fruit until they touch the ground. This allows increased surface area for the tree, since the low areas around the trunk are not bare. Additionally, weeds are suppressed since the low branches shade out weed growth. The ground under the trees remains bare, thus allowing heat from the soil to radiate up during cold weather events. The extra branches around the trunk offer added protection to the bud union as well. If smaller trees are desired for ease of harvest, ‘flying dragon’ root-stock offers dwarfing benefits, so that the mature scion cultivar size will only grow to 8-10 feet tall.


Fig Tree with ripening fruit.  Image Credit: Mary Derrick, UF/IFAS.

Figs should be pruned after fruit production, which usually occurs in early summer. In the winter it is fine to remove dead or diseased wood, but drastic trimming will reduce yield, since fruit is borne at the terminals of branches from the previous year’s growth. For more information, please consult this UF/IFAS publication, The Fig.



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Matthew Orwat

Matthew J. Orwat started his career with UF / IFAS in 2011 and is the Horticulture Extension Agentfor Washington County Florida. His goal is to provide educational programming to meet the diverse needs of and provide solutions for homeowners and small farmers with ornamental, turf, fruit and vegetable gardening objectives. Please feel free to contact him with any questions you may have.

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How to prune fruit trees: tips for beginners

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs is one of the most important annual operations, without which no plant can grow normally, develop and give full yields.

It is necessary to prune fruit trees in order to correctly form their crown, to prevent its thickening, which interferes with the access of light and oxygen to the branches and leads to the emergence of diseases and pests.

Without pruning, the yield of both stone and pome plants drops sharply, the fruits become small and tasteless.

There are different types of pruning, some of them are too difficult for a beginner gardener, and not always necessary. In this article, we will show you how to prune fruit trees with the least amount of effort and using the simplest tool that everyone has.

We have already talked about how to prune fruit trees in our articles: How to care for cherries, How to care for pears, Frost-resistant cherries, How to grow plums.


Pruning of young plantings begins at the age of three. It is necessary for a tree to form a crown correctly and quickly. Such a formation has been carried out for several years. And here it is important not to make mistakes, since an incorrectly formed crown will be very difficult to correct in the future.

The main thing is to correctly create the frame of the future tree. As a rule, two types of pruning are used in amateur gardens: sparsely-tiered and non-tiered. The first is the simplest and most accessible for any novice gardener. It is equally good for both stone fruit and pome crops.

In the first two years, fruit trees mainly grow the root system, and the growth of the aerial part is rather small. In the third year, the intensive growth of the tree itself begins, and if you do not start shaping it, then it will turn into a long thick “whip” with weak side branches.

Pruning of young fruit trees starts from the central conductor. It is shortened to a height of 75 cm, leaving up to 10 buds on it, from which new shoots and side branches will form. Thus, the first tier is laid.

The following spring, damaged and weak branches are removed, leaving the 3 strongest. This will be the second tier. In subsequent years, the third, fourth and fifth tiers are formed in the same way.

When the tree reaches a height of four meters, cut the center conductor above the top branch to stop the growth of the tree, otherwise it will be quite difficult to care for it. Your crown has been formed.


Annual pruning of fruit trees promotes the formation of new shoots, increases the number of flower buds, relieves the crown of the tree from thickening, improves the taste of the fruit, increases yield, limits the growth of the tree and facilitates its care.

This operation is carried out in the spring - at the end of March - beginning of April, before the start of bud break.

Pruning mature plants differs significantly from shaping a young tree. As a rule, it is limited to two operations: shortening and thinning.

Shorten branches to encourage shoots and buds to grow. A cut on annual branches must be made above the bud, and on a long-term one - above one of the branches.

This operation promotes the rapid growth of shoots below the cut. These young shoots will quickly begin to grow fruit twigs.

Thinning is necessary to improve access to sunlight and air circulation inside the canopy. This contributes to the formation of large, even fruits and prevents the appearance of diseases and pests.

During thinning, cut out all branches growing inside the crown or at an acute angle to the trunk. The latter can cause winter breaks in the tree.

Before pruning, all broken, withered and weak branches are removed, and then they begin the main work.

You can prolong the life of old trees with rejuvenating pruning. It is made for trees older than 18 years. The easiest way to rejuvenate is to shorten all branches by 2/3 of the length.


For pruning, you will need a short-handled pruner, a long-handled treetop pruner and a sickle-shaped garden saw, as well as a garden pitcher for covering tree wounds.

All garden tools must be sharpened and disinfected immediately before starting work. Immediately after cutting off the branches, it is necessary to cover the cut with garden pitch.

Pome crops are pruned first, and then stone fruits.

Do not delay pruning, because after the start of sap flow, it is no longer possible to prun fruit trees. Stone fruit crops can be especially affected by this.

Pruning of fruit shrubs begins at the end of April.

when possible, how to do it right, why prune fruit trees

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  • When to prune fruit trees

Pruning fruit trees is one of the most important gardening activities. For its correct implementation, you must adhere to certain rules. It is important, for example, to clearly understand how to prune branches and whether pruning should be done in summer and autumn. The procedure will pay off if it is performed regularly at the most appropriate time. When to prune trees in the garden, how to do it correctly, why do you need pruning of fruit plants?

Why are trees pruned in the garden?

What is the purpose of pruning trees in the garden? This is necessary in order to:

  • make harvesting easier;
  • create favorable conditions for flowering and fruiting. Pruning promotes the emergence of new young stems and, as a result, an increase in yield;
  • allow more sunlight and air to enter the canopy: a small bird should be able to fly through the center of the tree. Improved air movement prevents pests and diseases, and more light contributes to uniform ripening;
  • remove dead and diseased branches and stems, thereby rejuvenating trees.
  • give the plant the desired shape.

Spring pruning

Spring pruning of fruit crops is considered the most expedient and useful for the garden. It is important not to overdo it, because excessive zeal can lead to the fact that the tree will weaken or even die, not to mention a decrease in yield. It should be remembered, for example, that 30-40 leaves of an apple tree provide the conditions for the ripening of just one fruit.

Terms of procedure . Spring pruning will benefit the tree if done at the optimum time. When is the best time to start this procedure? If you start it too early, when temperatures are still low, the fruit crop may suffer from frost. If, however, tighten with pruning before the start of sap flow, then after it is carried out, the places of cuts will “heal” for a long time. The most suitable weather for pruning trees in the garden is clear, slightly frosty, with a temperature not lower than -5 ° C. For central Russia, this is usually the period from mid-March to mid-April.

How to prepare inventory . In addition to meeting the deadlines, there are other important nuances that determine how productive the spring pruning of young and fairly old trees in the garden will be. To carry out the procedure, you must first have the appropriate inventory, which, among other things, must be properly prepared. The tools you plan to use for pruning should be sharpened and sanitized. This is done in order not to cause unnecessary injuries and damage to the trees, as well as not to infect fruit crops. Sharpening the tool will be better if, before performing it, lower the cutting parts for some time in a salt solution (1 tablespoon per 1 glass of water).

Special considerations for pruning young plants . Pruning of young trees should be carried out carefully, avoiding excessive removal of branches and shoots. If the plant is still infertile, it is enough to rid it of diseased, damaged, thickening crown or hindering the growth of skeletal branches of shoots, as well as to shorten annual growths. If you need to remove the shoot completely, it is cut into a ring, leaving no stumps. In order not to damage the bark, when cutting a thick branch, first make a notch from the underside and then saw it off completely with a hacksaw from above. Remove excess branches carefully so as not to damage the kidneys with a cutting tool. When shortening to a kidney, the secateurs are started from the side of the neighboring branch, placing it at an angle of 45 ° in the direction from the base to the top of the shoot. The cutting blade should be 1–2 mm below the base of the kidney, the second blade 1–2 mm higher.

Branches to be removed

Branches to be removed from the fruit tree:

  • dead, diseased and broken. Shoots affected by pests or diseases are best removed immediately, along with areas where fungi have appeared, such as, for example, a tinder fungus. Old fractures need to be treated. To do this, remove the broken branch by pruning for translation, level the cut surface and “apply a bandage” from garden pitch or other compositions;
  • the weakest of the two growing side by side and moving in the same direction. If the branches are the same and there is a need to keep both, they are redirected by breeding in different directions;
  • representing the root branch, as well as shoots growing below the grafting site. The root branch must be removed before the tree becomes multi-stemmed;
  • intersecting, rubbing against each other, growing inside the crown;
  • which may pose a threat to property and human health.

Methods for pruning fruit trees

Two main methods are used for pruning fruit trees: pruning (shortening) and cutting (removing). When pruning, it should be borne in mind that the stronger the shortening, the more branching will be next year. If the tree tends to branch heavily, it is better to cut the branches entirely. If a short pruning is performed (about a third of the length of the branch), few shoots will appear at the top. With strong pruning (when a third of the branch remains), more powerful shoots will grow, which will diverge in different directions. Increments up to 40 cm long are usually not shortened. But if you want to activate growth, make a fairly strong pruning. Some fruit crops are characterized by low bud awakening. That is, annual growths are long, but branching occurs only in the upper part. In this case, a strong shortening stimulates branching and makes the crown more compact.

Types of pruning

Pruning of fruit trees can be:

  • sanitary, when cutting (removal) of branches affected by pests and diseases;
  • supporting or regulating, performed to limit the size of the plant (when individual branches are shortened or cut). This procedure allows you to prevent thickening of the crown, maintain the ability of the culture to regularly bear fruit, thin out flowers and ovaries;
  • forming. This is, in fact, the creation of decorative forms from trees on dwarf rootstocks using a frame and by repeated pruning;
  • anti-aging, which allows you to restore the ability to grow by significantly shortening the branches in areas with the optimal length of annual growth;
  • restorative, in the form of rejuvenation of old plants, restoring the ability to bear fruit, reducing the height of a tree, forming a crown or part of it from tops.

Is pruning done in summer and autumn

Beginning gardeners often have questions: Should garden trees be pruned in summer and autumn? Such pruning is quite acceptable, it all depends on the goals pursued. Often, gardeners prune plants during these seasons.

Summer . With the onset of the summer months, the growth of garden trees slows down. The supply of nutrients is used up and the plant begins to restore them through photosynthesis. Part of the generated energy is used to feed the summer growth, part goes into the roots to form a reserve for the next year. The lack of energy reserves at this time of the year can be used, for example, to reduce the size of an oversized tree. That is, if you carried out the main pruning in the spring, then in the summer you can cut the tips of young growths if you need to limit their growth. But spring is more suitable for removing large branches.

Autumn . In order not to harm the trees with autumn pruning, it should be remembered that whenever you cut a branch, for example, apple or pear trees, you leave a wound on the body of the plant. This is not a problem during the growing season, i.e. in the spring: after a few days, the wound will be covered with a layer of protective cells. In autumn, growth slows down and healing may not occur. That. autumn is not the best time for cutting branches on fruit crops, but this is practiced in the southern regions. Autumn pruning, which usually occurs after the end of leaf fall, is shaping, rejuvenating or restorative.

What a gardener will need for work

Pruning should be done in comfortable clothing that does not restrict movement and does not cling to branches. It is also better to wear special shoes with non-slip soles, a hat with a visor, gardening gloves and goggles. To carry out the work, a stepladder or other support may be required. Getting started, you need to make sure that the ladder is level and stable. It is better if you have an assistant when cutting trees at a height.


Thus, pruning garden trees helps not only form the crown of plants, but also stimulate fruiting.

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