How to use tree stand harness


3 Tips for Using a Safety Harnesses Bowhunters United

  Scott Einsmann   BowhuntingFeatured   May 3, 2017

Bowhunting is generally a very safe activity that can be done from the ground or from up in a tree. When hunting from up high, we stay safe by using a proper treestand – a platform securely anchored to a tree – to provide a great vantage point for seeing wildlife and taking an ethical shot.

However, safety must be the first consideration when hunting anywhere from 20 to 30 feet in the air. Falls from treestands do happen, and they can be fatal or crippling. But – with the proper precautions – you can prevent falls and enjoy a successful bowhunt. Never take treestand safety lightly. The best safety precaution for treestand hunting is to wear a full-body harness and stay tethered to the tree or lifeline the entire time you’re off the ground.

A full-body harness secures the bowhunter to the tree or lifeline with a tether, which is located on the harness’s back, just below the neck. The harness straps around your thighs and chest, which distributes pressure throughout the body. A lifeline, or  “safe line,” is a rope that attaches at the bottom and top of the tree. Hunters attach their tether to the lifeline using a carabiner or similar system, which easily slides up and down the lifeline and keeps you connected from the ground to your stand. When used properly, a tether and harness keeps you from falling more than a foot to 18 inches.

How to Put on a Safety Harness

To put on a safety harness, first put on the shoulder straps and secure the chest strap. The harness’s straps must be tightened, but they should not bind or restrict your movements. After securing and tightening the thigh straps, your harness is ready to go. Most treestands come with a full-body harness, but handier, more comfortable harnesses can be bought separately. These high-quality harnesses, available at archery shops, include features like padding, quick-release buckles and pockets for storing smaller items.

The Lifeline

A lifeline, or “safe line,” attaches at the bottom and top of the tree. The lifeline includes a prussic knot, which slides freely up and down the rope as the hunter ascends or descends, and allows you to be attached from the ground to your stand. Photo Credit: John Hafner

A lifeline is a rope that anchors to the tree just above the hunter’s head, as well as to something secure on the ground, such as the tree’s base. The lifeline includes a prussic knot, which slides freely up and down the rope as the hunter ascends or descends, but tightens and stops instantly when under force. To use a lifeline, bowhunters clip their safety-harness’s tether to the prussic knot with a locking carabiner. As they climb, bowhunters slide the prussic knot ahead of them up the rope. The system works similarly when descending, with the bowhunter sliding the knot downward before each step. Remember: Always stay connected to the lifeline whenever your feet aren’t on the ground.

What to Do if You Fall

Falling from a treestand is terrifying, but wearing a full-body harness will prevent major injuries. Still, you must act quickly to get back onto the security of the tree, your stand or the ground. When anchoring your tether to the tree, put it around the trunk above your head, adjusting its height to leave just enough slack so you can sit down. If you were to fall, this ensures you don’t drop far, and when you stop you’ll be near the tree, not hanging in space.

If you fall and can’t easily step back onto your steps or ladder, act quickly to relieve pressure from your legs with the harness’s suspension-relief strap. Hanging for long periods, even in a full-body harness, can cause serious injury. Once the suspension-relief strap is in place, call for help using a radio or cell phone. If you can now safely reach your ladder, tree steps or treestand, proceed slowly and methodically. Also, before the season, be sure to practice recovering from a fall with the suspension-relief strap. Practice sessions should be done close to the ground, taking turns with a partner.

Treestands are extremely effective for bowhunting. They get bowhunters above the deer’s sightline, which consistently helps them avoid detection. When hunting from treestands, always use stands and safety harnesses approved by the Treestand Manufacturers Association. To purchase TMA-approved treestands and harnesses, visit an archery shop for their pros’ expert advice.

Tree Stand Safety Guide | Hunting Safety Harnesses and Tree Stand Safety Tips

Without a doubt the number one most important part of hunting is safety. Coming back home to the family is your responsibility, enough to the point where you do not leave the ground without wearing hunting safety harnesses. When it comes to tree stand safety, there is no room for error, if there is…it life threatening. While you might read and watch countless videos on how to deer hunt or just of deer hunts themselves, some of the most important information and videos might actually be the ones that could save your life. Here is tree stand safety 101 a tree stand safety guide for getting into and out of the tree safely.

When it comes to tree stand safety and hunting safety harnesses, the Treestands Manufacturer’s Association (TMA) doesn’t skimp on guidelines, standards, or safety education and tips. Here is some detailed information on the TMA and some helpful resources that define tree stand and hunter safety.

Tree Stand Safety Tips

Just as we learn firearms safety in an online hunting safety course, there are tips and steps to tree stand safety. Each of these tree stand safety tips should be treated as how important they actually are…life or death.

Read Tree Stand and Hunting Safety Harness Instructions

When buying a new tree stand and safety harness, or when you have just bought new hunting safety harnesses for yourself, you need to read the instructions. It’s so easy to forget this step when preparing for hunting, and simply discard the white paper in the bottom of the box. Not reading the instructions could lead to misuse and a potentially bad, or fatal situation.

While reading or watching DVDs or informative manuals on the products you may be thinking “I don’t need this, I will never fall”, and you might be right, you might not fall, but it can always happen.

Inspect Your Tree Stand and Your Safety Harness

When deer season arrives, it’s a constant grind, each and every day that is available to hunt, you will be in the stand. In the long season and remedial task of climbing in a tree stand it can be easy to miss something. Inspecting your tree stand and your safety harness for any tears, rips, bad rust or missing nuts before you climb is a must to staying safe during the entire season.

Notify Someone Else

Another key element to remember from these tree stand safety tips, is to always, each and every time you go out hunting, let someone else know where you are. Leave a note, or verbally tell someone where you are, and how long you will be hunting for. While it’s easy to think that you have a cell phone you can’t rely on it. For one you might not have service, but two, you might lose it during the fall.

               

Never Hurry When Hunting From a Tree Stand

Again, once deer season gets here the rush and anxiety to get up in a tree can and will cause a panic and hurry mindset. Remember to stay calm, relaxed and think clearly. Climbing a tree stand is dangerous, you need to be sure to follow the above steps, but also be sure you have clipped in and are climbing the tree stand correctly.

Self-Rescue

Planning and preparing for tree stand safety is being prepared for the worst case scenario, if it does happen when you are deer hunting this fall, you need to know how to rescue yourself. Your hunting safety harness should have a strap or relief that allows you to straighten yourself out when hanging. This allows you to grab back on to the tree or ladder. An extra precaution would be to make sure you have access to a tree stand hook or step. Having this will allow you to climb up, allowing you to self-rescue yourself.

Use a Haul-Line

A very dangerous move sportsmen and deer hunters make each and every deer season is carrying their gear up while climbing. This is not practicing correct tree stand safety. Climbing up with gear such as your bow, a firearm, a backpack, or any other hunting gear not only adds weight and possibly one less hand on the ladder but takes your full concentration off of climbing. Always be sure there is one or two haul line or a pull ropes such as Muddy’s EZ Twist Pull Up Rope.

Hunting Safety Harnesses: Selection

The absolute essentials of tree stand safety, besides being your own responsibility are hunting safety harnesses. A good hunting safety harness that hunters can rely on goes past safety. If you have hunted long enough, you know hunting from a tree stand can be a strain. Packing in gear, and more importantly extra clothes, and always tearing layers off or putting layers back on, it gets exhausting fast. Having a hunting safety harness that is not only safe, but comfortable for all day sits, and something that does not get in the way of taking off or putting on clothes is vital.

Hunting Safety Harnesses | Muddy Outdoor Teasers

(Video) – The undoubtedly most important aspect of deer hunting is safety. Besides firearms safety, climbing up in tree stands is the most dangerous part of your hunt. Stay safe on the way up, and during the hunt with Muddy’s innovative and advanced hunting safety system designs, the hunting safety harnesses in Muddy’s line is enhanced with the exceptionally high end features and unwavering quality that it has always been known for. As tradition continues, Muddy endeavors to exceed limitations for tree stand safety and raise the bar on expectations through innovation, experience, and commitment. If you are looking for hunting safety harnesses and tree stand safety harnesses, check out Muddy’s Safety Systems Line.

Hunting safety harnesses that keep comfort in mind will keep the hunter safe. Not because they are safer, or stronger, but wearable. A safety harness that is easy to wear and comfortable makes all the difference. Muddy Outdoors has many hunting safety harnesses for whatever style or hunter you are.

Muddy Crossover Hunting Safety Harness System

http://shop.gomuddy.com/the-crossover-combo/

  • Flexible Tether for 360° Movement
  • Quick & Easy to Put On
  • Adjustable Buckles for Sure Fit
  • One-hand Carabiner
  • 6 Pockets + Built-in Binocular Straps Keeps Everything Within Reach
  • Extra Cushion on Shoulders and Back for All Day Hunt
  • CONSTRUCTION: Light Weight Padded Nylon
  • BUCKLES: Standard Quick-Release
  • INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO HUNT: Crossover Harness, Lineman’s Rope, Tree Strap, Suspension Relief, Strap, Carabiner, Safe-Line; WEIGHT: 2 Lbs. ;
  • WEIGHT RATING: 300 Lbs.

 

Muddy Top Flight Hunting Safety Harness System

http://shop.gomuddy.com/the-top-flight-combo/

  • Quick & Easy to put on
  • Flexible Tether for 360° Movement
  • Quick-Set, One-hand Carabiner Clip
  • Binocular Straps for Convenient and Quick Access to Binoculars
  • 8 Spacious Pockets for Instant Access to Gear
  • CONSTRUCTION: Stretchable, Light Weight Padded Nylon
  • BUCKLES: Standard Quick-Release
  • INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO HUNT: Top Flight Harness, Lineman’s Rope, Tree Strap, Suspension Relief Strap, Carabiner, Safe-Line; WEIGHT: 2.8 Lbs.;
  • WEIGHT RATING: 300 Lbs.

 


Muddy Magnum Hunting Safety Harness System

http://shop.gomuddy.com/the-magnum/

  • Rugged Tether Reduces Chances of Fall/Injury
  • Padded Shoulders and Waist for Extra Comfort and Endurance During Long Sits
  • Easy Cinch Adjustable Torso Straps
  • Noiseless & Adjustable Leg Buckles; No Metal on Metal Contact
  • CONSTRUCTION: Light Weight Padded Nylon
  • BUCKLES: Cam Leg buckles
  • INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO HUNT: Magnum Harness,Lineman’s Belt, Tree Strap, Suspension Relief Strap
  • SIZE: One Size Fits Most WEIGHT: 1. 5 Lbs.
  • WEIGHT RATING: 300 Lbs.

Muddy Safeguard Hunting Safety Harness

http://shop.gomuddy.com/the-safeguard/

  • Flexible Tether for 360° Movement
  • Quick & Easy to Put On
  • Super Light! Sized to Fit, no Extra Bulk Provides SUPREME COMFORT!
  • One-Hand Carabiner
  • Extremely Gear Friendly, Keeps Everything Within Reach
  • Extra Cushion for all Day Hunt
  • CONSTRUCTION: Light Weight Padded Nylon
  • BUCKLES: Cam Leg Buckles
  • WEIGHT: 1.9 Lbs.
  • INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO HUNT: Safeguard Harness, Lineman’s Rope, Tree Strap, Suspension Relief Strap, Carabiner
  • WEIGHT RATING: 300 Lbs.

Women’s Hunting Safety Harnesses

http://shop.gomuddy.com/the-safeguard-womens/

  • Flexible Tether for 360° Movement
  • Quick & Easy to Put On
  • Super Lightweight! Sized to Fit Most Female Figures With no Extra Bulk. Provides SUPREME
  • COMFORT!
  • One-Hand Carabiner
  • 2 x Gear Lanyards Keep Everything Within Reach
  • Extra Cushion for all Day Hunts
  • CONSTRUCTION: Light Weight Padded Nylon
  • BUCKLES Cam Leg Buckles
  • WEIGHT: 1. 9 Lbs.
  • INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO HUNT: Safeguard Harness,Lineman’s Rope, Tree Strap, Suspension Relief Strap, Carabiner
  • WEIGHT RATING: 300 Lbs.

Youth Hunting Safety Harnesses

http://shop.gomuddy.com/the-safeguard-youth/

  • Flexible Tether for 360° Movement
  • Quick & Easy to Put On
  • Super Light! Sized to Fit, no Extra Bulk Provides SUPREME COMFORT!
  • One-Hand Carabiner
  • Extremely Gear Friendly, Keeps Everything Within Reach
  • Extra Cushion for all Day Hunts
  • CONSTRUCTION: Light Weight Padded Nylon; BUCKLES: Cam Leg Buckles
  • WEIGHT: 1.9 Lbs.;
  • INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO HUNT: Safeguard Harness,Lineman’s Rope, Tree Strap, Suspension Relief Strap, Carabiner
  • WEIGHT RATING: 150 Lbs.

Tree Stand Safety 101

Once you have selected one of the hunting safety harnesses you have a good base, but it takes more than a harness to keep safe in the stand. Not understanding tree stand safety beyond the harness is where most make the mistake. They wear their harness while hunting, they clip in once up in the tree, but they forget or do not have the equipment that can keep them safe all the way up to the seat of the stand. The most dangerous time of your hunt will be climbing up and down the tree stand. It doesn’t make sense to only be clipped in at the top of the stand, when you are just as high and in a more dangerous position to fall before and as you are clipping in. To stay safe during the entire hunt, from when your feet leave the ground until they return you need a safe-line.

Muddy: The Safe-Line

http://shop.gomuddy.com/the-safe-line/

The Muddy Safe-Line is a Unique System that allows the user to stay attached to the tree at all times.

  • Two Prusik Knots
  • Slides Easily Up and Down the Rope During Ascent and Decent and Stops You IMMEDIATELY Should a Fall Occur
  • Prusik Knots made of Reflective Material that Enhance Daytime and Low-Light Visibility
  • CONSTRUCTION: Braided Nylon; USE: Stay Safe from the Moment You Leave the Ground to the Time You Return!
  • Length: 30’
  • WEIGHT RATING: 300 Lbs.

Muddy Safe-Line | Trophy Pursuit

(Video) – Dunkin from Trophy Pursuit is hanging stands during the off season. As he hangs Muddy Tree Stands He discusses why he installs safe-lines in every single set he uses for deer hunting.

Deer hunters everywhere, this fall, and every fall to come will only briefly think about tree stand safety. The thought that “I will never fall” is a poor attitude to climb up a stand with. It your responsibility to not only wear hunting safety harnesses but use them properly and be clipped in and safe during the entire hunt. You have a responsibility to practice tree stand safety, and return to your family. Take the proper precautions, understand the material in this tree stand safety guide, follow these tree stand safety tips, get the right hunting safety harnesses, use a safe-line, and be prepared and prevent a worst case scenario.

Types of frame house framing | Experts

The construction of frame houses is a very popular process that allows you to build high-quality and durable buildings in a short time. But this is only on condition that the technology is fully observed during construction and all the necessary elements are taken into account.

Valery

Project manager

For this, it is imperative to take care of the upper and lower trim of the frame house. This is the basis for the entire frame, so when choosing materials for strapping, you should choose only trusted suppliers with quality products, otherwise you risk shortening the service life of the comparison.

Contents

  • Purpose of strapping
  • Gallery
  • Strapping requirements
  • Bottom trim
  • Material selection
  • Mounting the strapping on the foundation
  • Pile and column foundation piping
  • Strap connections
  • Frame house floor
  • Top harness
  • Fixing floor beams
  • Fastening rafters to the top trim

Purpose of strapping

The principle of the lower and upper strapping of a frame house is, in general, the same, but their purpose is different. In fact, both of them serve to strengthen the frame, add reliability to it and fasten all its elements together.

The lower harness, as the name implies, works with the structure from below, creating a strong support for it. Thanks to it, the weight of the building and the entire main load is evenly distributed on the grillage and below.

The upper frame of a frame house, on the contrary, is necessary in order to connect the walls, as well as to distribute the load from the floor or roof on them. This is very important, because the frame of the house is very light and improperly distributed weight can significantly harm the entire structure as a whole.

This is a very serious stage, and even though the technology, for a specialist, there is nothing particularly difficult in it, if you are not completely sure of your level of professionalism, be sure to seek help from specialists in this field who will prompt and show you how to make a strapping better. And a full guarantee of quality will be given to you if a full-fledged team of experienced carpenters works at the facility.

Gallery

Requirements for strapping

They should also not be neglected, because mistakes will be very difficult to correct later:

  1. Do not forget to cover all wood materials, especially joints, with special protective agents in the form of antiseptic solutions and sealants. Particular attention must be paid to the ends, because this is the most vulnerable part of the wood. It contains the largest capillaries and juice-containing channels, from which the destruction of the material begins. In order to prevent the occurrence of rotting, mold, fungus, as well as the development of pathogenic microorganisms that can violate the integrity of the shells of materials, take care of their thorough sealant treatment. After all, this is better than regularly updating and replacing structural elements of a frame house.
  2. Of course, everyone chooses what kind of wood to use, depending on preferences and budget, but the best option is to use softwood. As practice shows, they have the best physical and mechanical properties and performance characteristics, and therefore are excellent for both the lower trim of the frame house and the upper one, because they are extremely strong and durable. Their high resin content is a good natural trump card, additionally protecting them from bioparasites, and it is also the most affordable material of all wood species.
  3. You can use the strapping of a frame house made of timber or boards, but it is imperative that they are even and well processed. The methods of fastening the strapping from the timber depend on your preferences and capabilities, but there is one axiom. She always fastens on nails! No self tapping screws. Sizes can be completely different, be guided by what kind of project you have in front of you. But basically everything is standard, for boards it is 38x95 or 145 mm. But for a bar 145x145 (150x150), 95x95 (100x100).
  4. Do not save on parts and fasteners, they must be as reliable as possible, and metal elements must not corrode. Make sure that they have a high-quality anti-corrosion coating.
  5. Depending on the technology, the upper frame of the frame house can be single or double. The Finnish house has an upper harness, always single, the Canadian one has both double and single.


Photo 1. Frame house foundation

Bottom rail

The lower trim serves as the basis for the frame elements and therefore plays an important role in the design. Therefore, when creating it, it is worthwhile to strictly comply with the standards of SNIP, SP and building COD, and follow the technology. These documents are not a set of mossy bureaucracy, but the quintessence of scientific construction thought that makes your home reliable, durable and safe.


Photo 2. Bottom rail

Material selection

As we have already mentioned, it is best to use softwood strapping material due to its excellent performance. It can be spruce, cedar or pine. Larch also has excellent properties and qualities, and therefore copes well with the task. Remember that the life of your home directly depends on the quality of the strapping materials.

Therefore, the requirements for any materials will be as follows:

  • The building material for framing a frame house must have high water-repellent properties.
  • As well as a high level of strength and elasticity, in order to withstand severe weight loads.
  • Resistance to mechanical stress must also be high, because the strapping has a fairly large pressure.

For the lower trim of the frame house, of course, wood materials are used, depending on your preferences. It can be timber, or cohesive boards. But that's not all, for complete reliability, you will also need something that will perform the functions of waterproofing, as well as fasteners for this, only nails are used!


Photo 3. Construction of a two-storey frame house

There may be several options for tying:

  1. The most reliable option for tying piles of a frame house is a beam of various sizes, depending on the specifics of a particular project. Ideally, it should be dry and planed, dried in a thermal chamber with a moisture content of no more than 10 - 15%.
  2. It is also possible to tie with boards, which is a more economical option. They are installed at the ends on the edge, and are connected with each other with nails. If you arrange them correctly in order to observe between them the multidirectionality of the fibers of one board in relation to another, then the finished product in terms of mechanical strength will be like an elite glued beam.
  3. Also, these materials can be combined with each other, in this case the timber is located between the boards. Racks are then directly inserted into such a design.
  4. If the construction is light, the installation of the harness may even consist of one board.

Before tying, it is imperative to consider what type of foundation you have. If you have a pile-screw base, the requirements for materials increase, and, therefore, they must be of the highest quality.


Photo 4. Simplified painting scheme for

Mounting the piping on the foundation

Materials and structures for tying a frame house, as mentioned above, depend not only on your tastes, but also on the type of foundation chosen.

Tying is usually carried out immediately after the foundation work is completed. If there are any significant irregularities, they must be eliminated. Errors are allowed no more than 1 cm.

  • After that, a waterproofing layer is mandatory. Waterproofing is perfect for this, but in general there are many other options on the market in different price categories.
  • Tying is done from the corners. At this stage of the work, check all values ​​using measuring instruments and measurement methods.
  • Next, the main nodes of the frame are equipped, boards are placed. Joints are mounted "in the floor" or "in the paw". Make sure all values ​​are equal. Strengthening is done - with long nails!
  • Also, before starting the process, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation of the frame house itself, preparing it for further work.

  • Photo 5. Bottom rail on the foundation

    Strapping on the strip foundation:

    • Docking points are equipped with anchors. The dimensions of the strapping parts depend on the selected materials.
    • The layers of waterproofing are then laid.
    • In the meantime, holes are created in the boards according to the dimensions of the pieces. Elements are fixed on the base.
    • Additional fasteners are used in the corners.
    • Be sure to check the levels, if there is any discrepancy - it must be leveled.

    Pile and column foundation piping

    These are not solid types of foundation, and therefore the strapping acts here as their connector. This is a more time consuming and complex process. The strapping fastening methods can be selected different: clamp, welded or threaded.

    Strap connections

    The grillage plays an important role in the lower harness. He is her. It must be securely attached at the corners. But the methods of strapping connection can also be different:

    • Root tenon (most commonly used for corners)
    • "Butt" (the easiest option)
    • "Dovetail" (quite laborious, but very reliable)
    • "In the floor of the tree" or "In the paw" (if you need to increase the length).

    For the most reliable result, the use of dowels is necessary.


    Photo 6. Scheme of the device frame house

    Frame house floor

    Tying the floor of a frame house is a very good solution that will not only save you money, but also ensure the strength of the structure. In essence, this is a timber with a heater that fits between the beams. And floor materials are laid on top.

    Insulation is the most important aspect in frame housing construction, especially when it comes to the floor, because the greatest amount of heat escapes through it. If you have a pile-screw type of foundation, the insulation should be even better. But the thickness of the insulation depends solely on your region and the most extreme winter temperatures.

    Top rail

    The upper trim of the frame house is made from boards with a width of at least 100 mm. It plays the role of a base for the roof and even distribution of its weight on the racks of the load-bearing frame. The materials for it, as a rule, are similar to the bottom, the difference can only be in the cross section.

    The system depends on the height of the building. If there are several floors, the second floor is tied in two rows.


    Photo 7. Top rail

    Fastening the floor beams

    Fastening the beams to the top rail can be carried out in several ways:

    1. With the help of partial cutting and dowels for connection. In this case, a cut is made under half the thickness of the tree.
    2. In the forehead help of metal reinforced corners. This is a very simple type of connection, as well as quite durable and economical. They can also fasten the lag to the harness.
    3. Also with nails. But if you are using more than one board, this method will not work.

    Attaching the rafters to the top rail

    The reliability of the roof also directly depends on the truss system, so it is important to fix it correctly. Most often, a notch is used for this, and then the entire system is fixed with nails. But it is also allowed to use steel reinforced corners.

    Summing up, I would like to note that although the piping of houses built using frame technology is not something difficult for an experienced architect, only professional builders can give you a guarantee for work with the lower and upper piping of a frame house.


    Photo 8. How to tie a frame house

    In addition, it is equally important that all work be carried out strictly in accordance with a well-designed project. We have a lot of interesting options for you at Pavel Usmanov's House-Building Technologies for every taste.

    Order the construction of houses using frame technology in our company and see for yourself the quality. Study the catalog "House-building technologies of Pavel Usmanov". We work for you in Moscow and St. Petersburg!


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    Technologies used in the construction of houses and baths / Dacha Dream

    Frame

    Piping:
    The most important task when planning a house is the foundation! When assembling the base, our construction company uses double strapping. This is necessary in order to avoid cuts, which significantly reduce the power characteristics of the strapping. The first strapping crown is assembled from a 150x150mm beam, the corners of the strapping crown are sawn into the “wood floor”.

    Beams with a pitch of no more than 3000 mm are installed together with the first rim of the strapping. The second strapping crown made of a bar with a section of 100x150 mm is laid on the first strapping crown, the corners are sawn into the “floor of the tree”.

    Beams:
    After assembling the strapping, floor joists are installed on the first strapping ring perpendicular to the beams. We use logs from a board 50x150mm., And cut into the second strapping crown with a step of no more than 700mm., So that the logs are 50mm higher than the strapping.

    Draft floor:
    A board 22x150mm is attached to the joists from the bottom side (from the side of the street), on self-tapping screws, so that, on both sides, a step on which the rough floor will form a step.

    Frame:
    Our company assembles the frame in such a way that there is space for insulation in the corner joint.

    Shields are assembled from a board with a section of 40x100mm, 40x150mm, 50x200mm, depending on the thickness of the insulation. When assembling the shield, the jibs are cut into vertical posts, diagonally, by 40-50mm. Flush with the outer edge of the wall. Racks are established with a step no more than 580 mm.

    In the walls where window or door openings are located, the braces are installed in such a way that the rigidity of the frame is preserved, and the window opening, in turn, remains free.

    In openings from 3m. up to 4 m. a double board with a section of 50x150mm (bolted) is used to stiffen the floor.

    at the joints of the shield + shield, shield + strapping, shield + gable, flax-jute fiber or polyethylene foam 10x100mm is laid.


    To give the finished frame greater strength and a more rigid connection, a strapping from a board with a section of 40x100mm, 40x150mm, 50x200mm (depending on what material is used) connecting the frames of the external walls and the frames of the partitions is used.

    Attic floor:
    In the construction of the attic floor, we use trusses (prefabricated rafters in the shape of a triangle).

    Gables


    One-and-a-half floor:
    The one-and-a-half floor differs from the attic in that on the one-and-a-half floor the height of the outer walls increases by 1200mm, and the rafters are A-shaped and are attached to the outer walls without a rafter, thereby creating a rafter system from the outside and the frame of the room inside

    Counter rails:
    On all vertical elements of the house (Walls, gables, roof) counter rails are installed from a board 22x100mm or a bar 40x50mm (customer's choice). The counter-rails are fastened to nails or self-tapping screws (at the customer's choice) along vertical posts and rafters on top of the class “A” membrane film. Only after the installation of the counter-rails, the external walls are finished and the roofing material is laid on the roof.

    Warming:

    is insulated with a basalt wool with a frame thickness of 100 mm or 150mm (depending on the configuration), and a membrane tank of the class “C” is laid on the top glued together with adhesive tape for more reliable tightness) and only after that the interior decoration is carried out.


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