How to winterize a palm tree
10 Ways To Protect Palm Trees From Winter Freeze, Cold, and FrostWindmill Palms (Trachycarpus fortunei) under snow. Photo by Flickr.
While cold hardy palms can tolerate freezing temperatures, tropical palms may suffer from the cold damage. Usually, palm tree owners, that live in the warm climates, don’t need to worry about cold weather.
But, with unpredictable winters in the last couple of years, freezing temperatures don’t come as a surprise. Here is what you can do to protect your palm trees from freezing cold by applying:
- Palm fertilization
- Palm heavy mulching
- Palm heavy watering
- Antitranspirant spraying
- Copper fungicide spraying
- Palm warm cover
- Palm trunk and foliage wrapping
- Heater and light-bulbs
- Heat cables
- Temporary greenhouse
How Does Cold Affect Palm TreesWindmill Palm Tree (Trachycarpus fortunei). Photo by Flickr.
Cold weather can affect palm trees in different ways. Cold temperatures will slow down the root activity and growth rate of the palm.
Freeze or frost can damage the palm tissue in the trunk, which may limit the ability of the palm to provide leaves with enough water. Unfortunately, palm trees can’t regenerate conducting tissue and will likely die after a while. If the bud, also called “palm heart”, gets damaged, the palm will not survive.
How Cold Is Too Cold For Palm Trees
Palm species very greatly in their sensitivity to cold. Some types of palms can tolerate cold temperatures down to 10 – 15F for a short period of time, while others gets damaged when the temperatures drop below 45F.
Cold tolerance of the palm also depends on summer care, plant age, and time of establishment. If you are trying to figure out what is the lowest temperature your palm can survive at, start by checking cold tolerant for this particular species.
You can find it in my palm tree catalog under ‘Cold Hardiness’ section in the palm profile. Keep in mind, that by providing winter protection, you can push a palm’s tolerance by one-half or full USDA zones which means a range of 20 – 30F (12-18C) for subtropical and temperate plants.
10 Ways To Protect Palm Trees From Winter Freeze, Cold, or FrostPicture of snow covered palm tree. Photo by Flickr.
Before we talk about different cold protection options, it’s important to understand that a little bit of cold weather is actually good for the palms, because it promotes dormancy and also makes palms more cold tolerant (cold hardy). So, don’t start winterizing your palms too soon.
If there is no sudden temperature drop, let the palms acclimatize a little to the colder conditions. The goal is to protect the most important part of the palm which is the bud and to minimize the damage to the leaves and stems in case of an unexpected freeze.
Thankfully, there are number of things you can do to prepare and protect your palm tree during winter. Some of them are very simple while others are more complex. It’s good to know that even the simplest measures can add one-half to a full USDA zone to your garden.
1. Palm Fertilization
Palm tissue deficient in nutrients is less cold tolerant. Thus, it is important for the palm tree to receive right amount of fertilizer in the months leading up to the period of cold weather.
According to recent studies from University of Florida, fertilization improves cold hardiness of palms. Of course, the fertilization schedule will depend on where you live and the length of your growing season.
If you live in a climate with cold winters, the key is not to apply fertilizer late in the growing season, since the palms will continue to grow into the early winter. That will delay the dormancy and open them to more cold damage.
I recommend using a slow-release good quality fertilizer that has the same amount or close of Nitrogen (N) and Potassium (K). You will know the ratio by looking at the three numbers on the label (NPK): 15-5-15 or 20-15-15. Avoid using lawn fertilizer with ratio of 27-2-2 because it will promote foliar growth instead of root and flower development.
You can see what top 10 fertilizers I recommend in my palm tree fertilization post.
2. Palm Heavy Mulching
Heavy mulching is the most effective way to minimize leaf damage and maximizing tree survival.
You are probably already applying mulch all year round, but during winter mulch your palm more heavily. Adding 4-6 inches of mulch will protect ground from freezing deeply, thus protecting roots and lower trunk of the tree.
Since a lot of cold tolerant palms have their buds underground, mulch will keep the temperatures relatively constant protecting it from cold damage caused by rapid temperature fluctuations.
Also, unfrozen roots will be able to replenish the moister lost during winter transpiration. I recommend using organic mulch like course wood chips, maple or oak leaves, wheat straw or pine straw because they don’t compact too much over winter and moderate soil temperatures, suppress weeds, conserves moisture, and add nutrients to the soil as they decompose.
Another benefit of using whole deciduous tree leaves with the mulch, is that they release considerable amount of heat while decomposing. To keep the mulch from blowing away you can use a wire netting enclosure. Put the mulch 1-2 ft away from the trunk of a small palm and about 3-4 ft away from a large tree.
You should leave the mulch until your area is done with the frost and then gradually remove it over a period of a 3-4 days. Removing it slowly will provide your palm with more time to get used to increasingly stronger sunlight and also provide some protection against a late frost.
3. Palm Heavy Watering
While mulching will prevent roots from freezing, it won’t help with the water uptake that gets dramatically reduced once the temperatures falls below 40°F (5°C). Adding to the stress, cold winter winds in combination with the afternoon sun cause winterburn and defoliation of the palm.
To maximize water availability to the leaves, make sure the palm is well-watered entering winter season and the soil is saturated throughout the winter.
Since moist soil loses heat less rapidly than dry soil, water heavily the soil around the palm prior to a cold snap. I recommend using lukewarm water instead of a cold one because it will somewhat warm up the ground increasing the water uptake of the palm.
4. Antitranspirant Spray
Another way to reduce water loss from the leaves is to use antitranspirant spray. It forms a soft, clear, flexible film on the plant’s foliage which holds moisture reducing water loss during plant stress. I like spray called ‘Wilt Stop’ by Bonide.
I use it for winter protection or to minimize a transplant shock if I am transplanting a palm during growing season. It protects plants from drought, wind burn, sunscald, winter kill, transplant shock, and salt damage while at the same time allowing them to grow naturally.
You will only need to spray it once per season. BTW, it will also extend the life of Christmas tree by preventing it from drying out too quickly.
5. Copper Fungicide Spray
Stressed by cold temperatures, palm trees can become vulnerable to bacterial and fungal infections. The low levels of bacteria present on healthy palm tissue are harmless but becomes a problem once the palm has been damaged by cold.
That is why it is a good idea to spray the tree with fungicidal copper before the freezing temperatures in order to reduced the amount of bacteria to the lowest levels possible.
Spray the stem and foliage with a broad-spectrum fungicide/bactericide like Liquid Copper Fungicide by Southern Ag a few days in advance when you are expecting cold weather. It has a unique formula that helps fight both bacteria and fungi.
You should also spray open-crowned palms, because water collected in those crowns might freeze and thaw causing the damage to the tissues and providing perfect conditions for bacteria and fungi.
6. Warm Cover
During cold days, it is a good idea to cover your palm. If your palm tree is small, you can cover it with a weighted down box or a blanket. On sunny days, partially open a box to avoid air heating up to damaging temperatures inside.
This can happen even with the outside temperatures being below freezing. Don’t let the tree sit under the cover for more than 3 days in a row. After 3 days, uncover your palm during the day to provide it with some light.
For a larger palm, use a blanket, burlap or other warm material. Avoid using water-absorben cotton type of materials since they trap moisture resulting in the trunk rot.
When placing the blanket over the tree, allow for the cover to drape loosely so that warm air rising from the soil will be trapped under the cover. This will keep your palm 4-5 degrees warmer than the outside air.
You should remove all the covers once the weather is warm again. Avoid using a plastic for covering, as it may traps moisture underneath that will freeze and cause more damage.
7. Palm Trunk and Foliage Wrapping
Trunk and foliage wrapping is another great palm winterizing technique if you have a palm with a central trunk. Again, it’s best to use a material that does NOT absorb moister like synthetic blanket, burlap or a landscape fabric.
Before wrapping the tree, spray the area being wrapped with fungicide/bactericide spray like Liquid Copper Fungicide by Southern Ag.
Next, wrap the material around the trunk and secure it with a duck tape. Continue to wrap up around the lower leaves while gathering the leaves closer and closer into a bunch. Wrap as high as the stiffness of the leaves will allow it. Don’t worry, the foliage is not going to be damaged.
You can usually wrap the whole foliage mass of a smaller palm tree covering it completely. At this point, your palm might look like a mummy. During extreme weather, you can easily drape a cover over the open foliage on the larger palms removing it once the cold has passed.
While you can apply multiple layers, even one layer adds 2°-3°F (1-2C). Multiple layers of synthetic blanket can even add a full USDA zone of protection keeping the temperatures under the wrap 6°-8°F (4°-5°C) degrees warmer than the outside.
Some gardeners use bubble wrap, but I don’t like it because it might cause condensation that will lead to some problems.
Expert Advice: To minimize the fungal and bacterial problems, place sticks around the trunk before wrapping it so that the wrap does not touch the trunk.
It is safe to leave the wrap on until early spring.
8. Heater and Light BulbsPalm trees under snow. Photo by Flickr.
Another way to warm up your palm, is to place a small propane heater near the palm and use a fan to blow the warm air towards it. Keep the heater far enough from the tree to prevent overheating or burning.
Perhaps even more effective way, is to winterize your palm tree with Christmas lights. Simply wrap them around trunk a little denser than normal. As long as there is no wind, the lights will add 2°-3°F (1-2C) during cold winter night. In windy conditions the heat disappears too quickly to provide any warmth.
Using holiday lights underneath a loose landscape fabric, can add another 2°-3°F (1°-2°C) of heat. Some palm enthusiasts use the holiday lights underneath the wrap easily adding 10°-15°F (6°-9°C). While this sound like the best solution, it might dry up the tender leaves.
Expert Advice: Be careful with the light bulbs if you are relying on snow as your cover. The lights can melt the snow around the palm leaving it fully exposed to freezing air and cold winds.
9. Heat Cables
Another popular palm winterizing technique is the usage of the low-wattage heat cables. Typically used to wrap water pipes to prevent freeze damage, heat cables can be found in any of the hardware stores. Just like the holiday lights, they can be used around the trunk and the foliage of the palm.
The cool thing about heat cables is that they are extremely safe and reliable and most of them come with a built-in thermostat that automatically turns the heating cable on below 40°F and off above 55°F.
Some gardeners also use heating cables to wrap around the root ball when planting a palm. Then, they can active it during a cold winter to heat the root zone and prevent the roots from freezing.
Additionally, this warms up the water and as a result provides supplementary heating to the above ground plant tissues when the water moves up the roots system.
10. Temporary Greenhouse
If you have a lot of time and energy, you can build a temporary greenhouse around your palm. Adding a supplementary heat to the greenhouse will add two or even more full USDA zones to your garden.
This is the most involved method that will allow you to grow palm trees almost anywhere. Of course, the greenhouse structure has to be strong enough to withstand strong winds, freezing rain and heavy snow.
Built a wooden frame above the tree and cover it with double plastic sheet nailing it to the frame. Wet snow is very heavy, so make sure to built a slanted roof.
If I see a cold weather coming my way, I usually use heavy mulching, saturate root area with water, spray tree with broad-spectrum fungicide/bactericide and apply Christmas lights.
If the cold weather is going to last for a few days, I use antitranspirant spray and a wrap under Christmas lights. That’s usually enough. Since I live in a warm climate, I really don’t need more advanced winterization techniques.
I hope my tips will help you prepare your palm trees for cold weather. Let me know if you have any questions.
–Top 20 Palm Trees That Can Survive Freezing Weather
–10 Expert Tips On Growing Palm Trees In Cold Climates
–Secret to Growing Cold Hardy Palm Trees
–Importance of Microclimate When Choosing Cold Hardy Palms
–5 Steps To Saving Freeze Damaged Palm Tree
How to Winterize Your Palm Trees
If you love to grow palm trees in your garden but you’re in a part of the world that gets frost during winter, you will have to take extra precautions to make sure that the cold temperatures will not damage or worse, kill your beautiful palm trees. Here are 4 methods to make sure your palm trees won’t be too cold this winter.
- Chicken Wire Method
- Christmas Lights
- Winterize with Water Pipe Insulation
- Heat Tape Technique
Chicken Wire Method
One of the most popular winterization methods, using chicken wire to protect your palms, is a fast and efficient way to go. First, place stakes about three feet apart around your trees, keeping the palm as close to the center as possible. Start layering chicken or fencing wire around the posts, creating a wire basket of sorts around your tree. Fill the basket with leaves until it’s completely full.
This is a method that is sure to keep your trees protected from unwanted frosts and those frigid temperatures that could cause it serious harm, if not kill it completely. Your tree will feel nice and warm, yet still be able to safely breathe on those warmer, sunnier days. Once it starts getting into spring, around March or April, depending on your area’s climate, you can remove the basket and leave your tree free again. This is a great and natural way to keep your palms safe from a hard winter.
By utilizing the natural heat production of the fallen leaves, your trees will be kept at the perfect temperature all winter long. At the same time, they’ll be able to really enjoy those warmer days, meaning you may have even healthier trees once the spring hits. This is a great and safe way to keep your palms safe from the cold. Just make sure you get rid of those leaves once the spring hits, or it could lead to rot at the base of the trunk.
Why not turn your protection into a decoration? One of the simplest ways to keep your palm trees warm in those cold winters is by wrapping them in old fashioned Christmas lights. First, you’ll want to tie your palm leaves together into one tall bundle. This will keep them from having any stray leaves falling prey to frostbite.
After you have your bundle together, you’ll want to find classic style Christmas lights to securely wrap around your palm. The heat these lights will give off will be more than enough to save your trees from the cold, no matter how much the temperature drops. It’s important to keep in mind, however, that modern LED lights won’t work due to them being very energy efficient, thus not giving off much warmth.
Old-fashioned lights that are specified for the outdoors are the best option. Find the ones with those larger, thicker bulbs that will ensure a larger coverage area. This will help to guarantee every part of your tree is protected and will stay safe throughout the winter. Make sure you have the best palms ever when it comes time for spring.
Winterize with Water Pipe Insulation
If it’s good enough to protect your pipes, why wouldn’t it be for your trees? In order to use this winterization method, make sure you first cover the soil below the tree with a fair amount of mulch in order to protect the roots from snow and serious freezes. Afterwards, you’ll want to wrap the trunk and the first few leaves with the pipe insulation. It’s important to remember to fold the insulation over, to ensure that no water can get in at any point, which could then freeze and kill your palm.
That’s all there is to this winterization method. Once it’s spring again, quickly remove the insulation and watch as your plant grows back to its healthy size once again. This is a very straightforward technique, but it’s been proven time and time again to work. While you may lose some leaves, the base of your palm will be kept safe and healthy, which is really the most important thing.
This method is most often used on younger plants that won’t be harmed by losing leaves of the top. Shorter trunks lend well to this as the entirety of its length can be protected by the insulation. If you have older, more mature trees, you may want to consider another technique. But this one is great if you have palms that are just starting out.
Heat Tape Technique
This is probably the most involved, but surest way to keep your palms safe, particularly if you have already fully grown trees. First, you’ll want to find all the fronds, pull them up, and tie them back. Make sure you use a strong string that will hold them in place. This protects the trunk of your tree from freezing and killing the new growth, which will eventually kill your palm completely.
After, the second step is to wrap a heat tape, which is often available at any hardware or supply store, around the trunk. Start at the base and work your way up to the top, but make sure you keep the thermometer at the bottom. You need to make sure the trunk is completely covered. Buy extra tape just in case.
The next step is to wrap up the entire trunk with three to four layers of burlap. Once it’s completely covered, make sure to carefully secure it with duct tape. It’s important to remember to keep the thermostat on the outside of the burlap so that you can always have an accurate reading. It’s absolutely crucial that you wrap up every single part of the trunk, including the fronds, in this material.
Once the burlap has been properly placed, it’s time to rewrap the entire trunk in plastic wrap or shrink wrap, whichever you prefer to use. This is an important step for two reasons. One, it keeps the burlap securely in place, as without this extra layer it could fall and leave your trunk exposed. And, two, it helps ensure that snow and other liquids can’t easily enter, which could cause serious problems later on or if it freezes.
Once this step is finished, you’ll be able to plug in your heating tape and rest assured that your palms will be protected all winter long. However, it’s important to remember a few things. First, only plug in your heat tape to a ground fault receptacle in order to ensure both the palms as well as your own safety. Second, make sure you only wrap trees before the cold starts and are quick to unwrap them as soon as spring arrives, since leaving them in this type of wrapping can cause rotting and decay.
How to insulate a palm tree for the winter
Home » Miscellaneous » How to insulate a palm tree for the winter
Growing palm trees in the conditions of the Krasnodar Territory.Shelter for the winter
Not so long ago I wrote my thoughts about the wintering of palm trees in the open field. Now some of my experience. I had mistakes that I will take into account for the future, so that palm trees come out of wintering in a cheerful state.
It so happened that I needed to leave for a year, and I had 3 candidate palm trees for planting in open ground. These palms were 2 Trachycarpus Fortune and 1 Washingtonia Filiform. I bought them from a local nursery, but since I was away for a year, I didn't dare to leave them in the open field under the care of my friend, because. a palm tree is not a rose, it needs to be looked after a little more closely.
I took into account the factor of my possible absence and took 3 of my new palm trees (Trachycarpus and Washingtonia) to my relatives in advance. But to my disappointment, 2 palm trees disappeared from relatives by spring, because. they were kept in the cold and at the same time often watered - as a result, the palm trees rotted. The first rotted Washingtonia, Trachycarpus held on a little longer. In the general result, out of 3 of my palm trees ready for planting, only 1 Trachycarpus remained, which was also very bad in a pot, it looked very oppressed, the leaves disappeared one by one, and new leaves did not grow - the same spear stuck out from the growth point ( sheet).
I was a little worried about planting a palm tree outdoors in mid-July, because I am a supporter of spring planting of subtropical plants. But then I thought, as in that same cartoon - that it would do anyway and decided that even if the palm trees freeze, I will still gain experience in caring for such plants. The pioneer was the only survivor from my "troika" of palm trees, which I gave to relatives to look after them.
palm tree state C grade
Looking at the photo, I hope you understand how bad the palm was, judging by the way it looks.
I planted it next to the rocky juniper - in the future, when they grow up, there will be a very beautiful combination of a slender conifer with a palm tree! The place is well lit in summer, the sun gets very little in winter, due to the fact that this is the corner of the fence.
Then a week later, one palm tree in the garden seemed not enough for me, and I bought a new Washingtonia and planted it near Trachycarpus. I planted it not far, because. I planned a single heating from one outlet, so that I would not have to pull a long wire for a trial wintering. Between the palms the distance is about 2 meters.
In summer, there are no problems with palm trees at all, only moderate watering and sprinkling in the heat. What pleased me - my Trachycarpus, which had already almost rotted in a pot - gave out 5 leaves from mid-July to early October, slightly increased the stem and already looked very cheerful. And in truth - this palm grows well at both +30 and +15.
Washingtonia grew 1-2 leaves, she, apparently, endured the transplant a little worse. In July, I planted Agave in Washingtonia, which I also planned to cover along with a palm tree for the sake of experiment. This tightness is for the convenience of shelter. I didn’t water the agave at all, it grew at a good pace.
Palms were planted in the beginning of July and by the beginning of September looked like this:
Washingtononia and part of Agawa
As I already said in another article, people Palm growers are divided into 2 categories - some cover the palm tree with foam boxes, while others heat it with garlands.
At first, I planned to assemble a frame from wooden slats, and then cover it with Agrospan-60 in 3-4 layers, and so that the foliage does not touch the walls of the shelter. Such a shelter has the only plus - the palm tree is better ventilated, the possibility of rotting is almost excluded. But in the process of sheltering, I experienced all the delights of the method I chose - the slats are not stable, the agrospan is blown by the wind - it is impossible to fix it normally, the frame bends in the wind and touches the leaves of the palm tree. Outwardly, it looked terrible - a huge structure that occupied half the flower bed.
I will say this - you can cover a maximum of one palm tree in this way (or with a foam box), if there are more of them, then it is very inconvenient. A day later, I took everything apart.
A nasty off-season has come - early-mid November, when there are still no frosts, or they are not very strong, but at this time just huge winds blow, 20+ m / s for 2 weeks (winter is struggling with summer). Naturally, the foliage of palm trees from such a wind will turn into a chewed mass. It was decided to tie the leaves of both palms into a bundle with ropes. The leaves are in excellent condition. Do not be afraid to bind the leaves tightly, they will not suffer, they will straighten out when untied, worse when they are ruffled by a cold wind.
It is necessary to cover a palm tree when frosts become regular to -2 -3 degrees or when snow falls, which must first be removed from the palm tree.
Palm trees are afraid not so much of frost, but of excessive cold humidity, cold winds, bright winter sun (like conifers).
The weather this year was very unstable, the first half of October was hot - it reached 30 degrees, then a sharp drop in temperature to +2 +5 degrees, then in early November summer came again, it got warmer to +20 +25, and two weeks later came regular frost and snow. As a result, I covered the palm trees on the 24th-26th of November, because. I woke up one fine morning and was horrified when I looked out the window - the first snow fell on the street!!! Although it was not in the forecast. And in winter, I looked at the forecast literally every hour, especially before nights.
At first I was terrified because I was not yet accustomed to seeing palm trees under the snow, but then my sanity told me that I had frost-resistant palm trees and for a short time such a situation did not threaten them. It all looked like this:
Washingtonia and Agave in the snow
Trachycarpus. I tied leaves for him, and did it right, because. there is almost no snow at the point of growth, in contrast to Washingtonia.
Unleashed the leaves of Trachycarpus. If you look closely, under the palm tree you will see in the photo a seedling of Date Finger - 2 leaves are sticking out.
Palm trees were covered with snow. It was in such a case that their endurance came in handy - for a short time it does not threaten them with anything. I started to cover them, I already decided for myself that I would warm them with garlands. But I didn’t know how to “dress” them exactly.
I had to learn to cover the palm trees myself.
What I did
First, I threw a garland on the foliage, then wrapped it with agrospan in 3-4 layers and that's it. I heated Washingtonia not with a garland, but with a cable from a warm floor - I wound it on leaves in the same way and wrapped it in agrospan. The first serious frosts hit. It was -5 -6. Garlands shine at night, I'm happy.
the garland burned only at night
The garland burned in the constant burning mode (which was a mistake, because a lot of heat is released). After 4-5 days, the wave of frosts left, it got warmer again, I decided to open it and check the palm trees. I thought to open Trachycarpus first, I open it, and from there ... the smell of rotten hay hit me. I'm terrified, because palm leaves burned garland!!!
Burnt parts of the leaves, the smell was not pleasant.
And I also wanted to decorate him with two garlands, because I doubted the heat transfer power of the garland. But he immediately calmed down, looked at the bottom of the palm tree, the growth point is alive, the bottom of the foliage is alive, so everything will be fine. I made a positive conclusion for myself that one small garland is enough for 100% to heat such an enclosed space. I urgently redid the shelter, which I now consider correct.
First I wrapped the palm tree with Agrospan-60 in 2 layers. Then he dressed the wrapped palm tree with a garland, then wrapped it again with agrospan in 3-4 layers from above, so the palm tree is protected by two levels. The first level should be completely dry, in direct contact with the foliage, and have a garland hanging from it. And the second, outer level takes on all the charms of winter - snow, ice, water, wind, while it protects the garland and the first layer and retains heat. It is even better if you assemble a mesh frame around the palm tree so that the outer layer does not touch the inner layer at all and there is an air gap. But I did, I’ll say it again from the category of “and so it will do.”
Do not hang a garland or de-icing cable directly on the foliage - as practice has shown, they will burn the leaves. The sequence should be as follows: foliage - agrospan - garland - agrospan.
Another mistake I made was to underestimate the possibility of heat dissipation of the garland - I turned it on in the constant burning mode of all its bulbs (modern garlands have control panels for glow modes). As a result - leaf burns. The garland must be turned on at automatic mode - as it burns when plugged into a socket, so let it continue to burn. The bulbs burn at a different pace, burn, then go out, blink - this is the best option, it will be enough in full.
An important point - only garlands with incandescent bulbs, LED LED - garlands are suitable for heating. Standard LEDs don't generate enough heat to heat something up.
Washingtonia had a similar burn problem, only it came on towards the end of the winter. But in the case of Washingtonia, I used de-icing cable / cable from the underfloor heating system for heating. What is its disadvantage - the cost. It will be more expensive than a garland. What is the advantage - as a rule, such wires are self-regulating, i.e. they heat up to a temperature of +30, and then turn off and cool down themselves (which is why Washingtonia had leaf burns by the end of winter). Therefore, at first, the current consumption from such a cable is slightly increased, and then weak, because. it will turn off intermittently. Those. there will be no such situation that the cable will heat up indefinitely. Also, the advantage of such a wire is its endurance - it can even be laid inside the pipe so that the water supply system does not freeze, it has several layers of thick insulation. But there is one BUT. It is impossible to plug such a cable and more than one garland into one outlet through an extension cord at the same time - the outlet does not withstand. When the load is in the form of one cable and one garland, everything is normal. And garlands, I think, can be turned on three per outlet - I have such a number hanging on the Christmas tree for the New Year.
Let's go back to Washingtonia - unlike Trachycarpus, I didn't change the shelter, because I had a hard time securing the cable in the right places, and besides, it was a common shelter - for Washingtonia and Agave. Plus, there were no damages, burns from the cable wound on the foliage, at first. the cable is self-regulating, not scorching all the time without stopping. For a long time, Washingtonia looked very good when the heating was turned on often, it even began to open a new leaf (!) And only by the very end of the frost - in mid-February, its leaves began to dry out, from which I concluded that it was also "tired" from such improper heating.
It got worse towards the end, but only 3 days of frost remained to be held, from mid-February a confident spring warming came, during which I started pouring warm water on it so that the earth would melt faster and the roots would come to life.
Why did Washingtonia hold out for so long? Firstly, its drought resistance affected - it still grows in nature in deserts and can survive without water for a long time, and secondly, the cable is still self-regulating, it does not heat all the time, when heated to 30 degrees it turns off. Why didn't she disappear? - you remember, it is written everywhere that the disappearing palm leaves cannot be cut until they are completely dry. Apparently, she pulled strength out of them for herself and even tried to grow when it was warm from the heating. Therefore, do not cut palm leaves before winter.
Ideally, the connection should be through the cheapest thermostat - let's say they set the minimum to 0, and the maximum to +5. When the shelter cools down to 0, the garland turns on, warms up the shelter to +5 and turns off. This provides an already economical operation even more rational, plus the shelter does not warm up much, because. we all know how evergreens suffer at high temperatures and frozen soil at the same time - the foliage evaporates moisture in the heat, and the roots cannot replenish it from the cold ground, as a result, the plants can dry out.
But if everything is properly covered - as the example of Trachycarpus, whose shelter I redid, showed, then there will be no harm. Washingtonia I had NOT covered correctly, because. the cable was wound around the foliage and, as a result, by the end of winter, when I opened it completely (February 21), it looked “tired” from close contact with the heating. And Agave, by the way, too.
I forgot to say when the shelter will be completely ready, i.e. If the first layer of agrospan is first, there is a garland on it, then another level of agrospan, then you need to throw and fix a piece of plastic film on the upper part of the shelter. It will act as an umbrella, protecting from moisture from above. On the side, if it snows or rains, it’s okay, but there should be protection on top, because. firstly, the connection of the garland, and secondly, the growth point of the palm tree. If there is no “umbrella”, then there is more chance that moisture will get inside the shelter and the palm tree may rot if the growth point is wet.
frosts have come - the garlands are shining. The film acts as an umbrella from rain and snow
left - Washingtonia. Under the trough - wrapped Agave
Agave was pleasantly surprised - it was planted next to Washingtonia, wrapped with the same heating cable, a cape from Agrospan in 2 layers and a trough for complete dryness inside. At first I heated everything at a temperature of -5 and below, but then I didn’t feel sorry for this Agave and I began to navigate by palm trees - the heating turned on at -8 -10, sometimes -13. But the Agave, as you can see, is in pretty good shape, apart from the rotten bottom leaves. I also want to draw attention to the fact that a heating cable also came into contact with Agave leaves, after contact with which burns are visible. But in general, Agave even grew a little in the shelter, her growth point is alive. But it’s easier to dig up Agave for the winter, although I proved for myself that you can save it in winter without digging, because if you grow only Agave and it’s already heavy to carry it every autumn, then why not cover it.
severe frosts are not expected
An important point - when it gets warmer, it is necessary to shed the soil around the palm tree, but this must be done in warm weather. This is necessary so that the soil warms up faster, besides, the palm tree is in a dehydrated state after wintering and you need to let it “get drunk”. Here again the analogy with conifers.
How I connected the heating elements
To exclude the ingress of moisture, I, firstly, fixed all the connections in absolutely dry places and isolated them. Secondly, at first I led an extension cord with two sockets from the main outlet - it turns out that all the sockets will be occupied, there will be no open empty socket under voltage. A double extension cord goes to Washingtonia, an anti-icing cable is connected to one socket, which warms Washingtonia and Agave, and an extension cord to Trachycarpus is connected to the second socket, at the end of which there was one socket into which a garland was connected. As a result, all sockets in extension cords are occupied, plus they are very well covered from moisture and dirt.
The complete sequence of sheltering a palm tree looks like this:
1. First we tie the foliage into a bundle. The trunk circle can be mulched with straw/leaves
2. We wrap and wrap, like a bandage in 2 layers of agrospan-60. The lower part must be heaped with earth, at the bottom of the first layer there should be no gaps for cold air! We tie the top.
3. We decorate our palm tree with a garland. We make coils from 10 cm. If it is very often, it can burn. We turn on the garland only in auto mode, when all the lights flash randomly!
4. On top of the dressed up palm tree, we wrap 3-4 layers of agrospan-60 again. This layer should not be wound very tightly so that there is a small air gap between the first level of shelter and the second.
How it works - the outer winding with agrospan will take on the impact of snow, grain, rain, will be covered with a crust of ice, and the inside of the shelter will remain dry. If you make one level, it will get wet, and in combination with frost, this will kill the palm tree. If it is warm from the garland, then mold and fungus will also appear there. In addition, you protect the garland itself from wind and water by making an external winding. Therefore, an external winding is indispensable !!
5. When everything has been collected and wrapped, we put and fix a piece of plastic wrap on the top of the covered palm tree so that it acts as an umbrella, protecting it from moisture from above. From the sides of the shelter you can not cover anything.
Enjoy yourself and shelter and wait for spring!
How to heat?
Based on my mistakes, I recommend turning on the heating when the temperature outside drops below 13 degrees for Trachycarpus, for Washingtonia - below 8 degrees. If the frosts are in swing mode, i.e. at night -8 -1, and during the day it gets warmer at least up to +1, then heating is NOT needed, because. all palm trees tolerate such a winter very well. If there are slight frosts for a long time, while it does not get warmer during the day, for example -8 -5 at night, -1 during the day - in such a situation, Trachycarpus does not need heating - they can endure such long-term slight frosts (within adequate limits, of course, no more than 2 weeks, if does not get warmer, then we turn it on for one night so that the palm tree feels warm). It’s more difficult with Washingtonia - it tolerates prolonged frosts without defrosting worse, so it needs to arrange temperature drops - we keep it for a maximum of 4-5 days in this frost mode, and then turn on the heating, arrange a “unloading” night.
It will be better if the heating works at night - during the coldest time of the day. Checked - if it is -15 at night, and it gets warmer to -10 during the day, the heating can be turned off - until the shelter cools down, it will be noon and there will be already acceptable -5 -10 frosts that any palm tree can withstand. In addition, the temperature difference is preserved, which palm trees easily tolerate.
Regarding economy and beauty - such a New Year's shelter is beautiful and economical.
If the electricity is cut off, firstly, the shelter will cool down for a long time, and secondly, we have planted a frost-resistant palm tree, i.e. it will survive the frost for a while.
Now a photo of palm trees after wintering.
February 22nd. I trimmed the damaged areas of the leaves of Trachycarpus. Growing point in perfect condition, 2 new leaves sticking out of it
22 February. Shabby but alive Washingtonia
growing point let's hope for the best
winter is back for one night. The snow is wet and very heavy.
winter is back for one night. A good example of why palm trees need to tie leaves in the off-season.
This year I want to plant one Washingtonia and one Trachycarpus for the experiment, which I will cover without heating. I want to see if they can, being sheltered, endure our winter with a short-term low of -20. The evergreen Laurel transfers, so I think there are chances, by the way, I want to cover these palm trees in the same way as the Laurel, which I talked about in a separate article.
But heating provides a 100% guarantee of wintering.
Covering materials :
1. agrospan-60 white;
2. some straw for mulching the trunk circle;
3. extension cord to the nearest outlet in the barn;
4. a piece of polyethylene film;
5. rope to secure all this stuff
6. heating element.
Further, you can choose heating elements, you can heat any of the listed ones
- Christmas tree garland on mini or micro incandescent bulbs
- Duralight garland also on incandescent bulbs
- anti-icing cable / cable from underfloor heating system.
Immediately buy a minimum length of 5 meters, because your palm tree will gradually grow in height!
Attention, information has been updated! Still, Washingtonia did not survive the spring with me, every day it was getting paler and paler, and everywhere - both foliage and growth point, I had to uproot it. But! I can tell you with confidence that she died not from frost, but from my shelter, which I did not correct at the right time. In December, January, early February, she was in perfect condition. At the very end of winter, it began to dry out from heating. Trachycarpus immediately burned, in fact, this prompted me to remake his shelter. And in the case of Washingtonia, looking at her cheerful state, I thought that I would live to see warm weather. I'm not upset, I have a lot of palm trees, a new Washingtonia has already been planted in its place, and not a purchased seedling, but personally grown from a seed. It is smaller than the palm tree that did not overwinter, but it will have an advantage during wintering - I understood my mistakes and already know how to properly cover the palm tree.
Thank you for your attention!
The Ultimate Palm Plant Care Guide
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Nothing says "tropical houseplant" like palm trees. There are many different types of palm houseplants, but don't worry. With this detailed house palm care guide, it's easy to ensure these elegant plants thrive.
Palm plants are fun to collect and damn easy to care for. Plus there are many benefits of growing them indoors.
If you want to create an indoor jungle, then you definitely need to add some of these beauties to your collection.
So in this post I will show you everything you need to be successful. Here you will find everything from watering, lighting and fertilizer to soil, pest control and pruning!
Benefits of growing tropical house palms
Palms are excellent houseplants because they are very tolerant of neglect, but they will thrive with proper care for houseplants.
These easy-to-care houseplants are ideal for most homeowners because they don't like a lot of light and adapt easily to growing indoors.
In addition, palms help to purify the air in our homes, which is another great benefit of growing tropical palms indoors.
Palm plants can live for many years with proper care, and some types of palms can grow into huge palms in indoor containers.
In summer you can even move the palm tree outside (in the shade) to give it a boost.
Horsetail Palm Plant
Different Types of Palm Houseplants
As I mentioned above, there are many different palm plants that make excellent houseplants.
They don't all look the same, and some varieties of palms don't even look like you might think. So keep that in mind when shopping for new indoor tropical plants.
Here are some of the most common types of home palms you can find for sale online or at your local garden center.
- Areca Palm
- Horse Tail
- Salona Palm
- Majesty Palm
- Police Palma
- CATERACTERUM Palm
- WHIRE PASS
- YUKKA Palm
- Palm -
Various Palm Plants Crowning Plants 9000 9000, Despite the Care of Palm Complex, , they all require the same basic conditions for best growth.
This is great news and makes indoor palm care so much easier!! Here are some basic tips for indoor palm tree care.
Watering Palm Plants
Palm plants are tolerant of under-watering, but will grow better with regular watering.
Palm plants ideally prefer when their soil is kept evenly moist, especially during the summer months (their active growing season).
In summer, allow the soil to dry out only slightly between waterings. In winter, you can let the soil dry out a bit between waterings.
But be very careful not to overflow, this is the number one killer of palm plants. I recommend growing indoor palms in pots with drainage holes in the bottom to help prevent overwatering.
If you find it difficult to water your plants with the right amount of water, I recommend getting an inexpensive soil moisture sensor to help you get the right amount of water.
You can also use the houseplant watering devices to water potted palms.
Dwarf Indoor Palm Houseplants
Best Indoor Palm Lighting
One of the reasons palm plants are such common houseplants is that they can easily adapt to low light indoor conditions.
In fact, most indoor palms prefer shade and will suffer from direct sunlight. This is ideal since most of us don't have a lot of direct sunlight in our homes anyway!
Indoor palm plants prefer bright, indirect light in low light, but tolerate less light, especially in winter.
They will not survive in total darkness, so if there is no natural light in the room, you should definitely add some plant light.
If you plant your palm outdoors in the summer, keep it in the shade so you don't get burned.
The Best Soil for Planting Palms
When it comes to what soil to use for palms and plants, most indoor palms aren't too picky. The best soil for potted palms is a loose, porous potting mix, such as a mixture of peat moss, leaf mold, and shredded bark.
You can also buy a cactus and palm potting mix specially made for growing palms, otherwise they will grow just fine in ordinary potting soil.
If you're one of those people who often forgets to water their plants (ehm, I don't know anything about this), then you can add some peat moss and/or vermiculite to the general purpose soil to help retain moisture.
Keep in mind that palm plants don't like to be repotted and can be grown in the same pot for several years. So it's best to wait to repot the palm plant until it grows into the pot.
Super healthy palm leaf
How to fertilize palm trees indoors
Indoor palm plants don't really need fertilizer, but of course the plants will benefit from being fed as part of your regular indoor palm care.
However, they are very sensitive to chemical houseplant fertilizers, and the use of synthetic fertilizers can do more harm than good.
It is better to use organic fertilizers for indoor palms.
The good news is that there are many organic palm fertilizer options on the market that are specifically made for house palms, making them very easy to feed!
My favorite brands of indoor palm fertilizer are Jobe’s, Espoma and Dr. Earth. Whatever type of fertilizer you choose, it is important to know when to fertilize your palms.
Be sure to fertilize palm trees only when they are actively growing (spring and summer). Do not fertilize indoor palm trees in autumn and winter, otherwise the plants may suffer.
House palms in containers
Houseplant pest control on house palms
Spider mites are the most common pests that can attack house palm plants. Maintaining a high level of humidity in the air around the plant will help fight off the spider mite and also benefit the plant.
Houseplant scales and mealybugs can also be a problem but are much less common.
If you find that your palm plant has insects, start treatment immediately. Do not use chemical pesticides against houseplant pests, they are not very effective (and harmful to us and our pets!).
I recommend using organic neem oil, which is a natural pesticide. I also like to use a mixture of 1 teaspoon of Dr. Bronner's Baby-mild per liter of water to help control insects.
Insecticide soap or garden oil is also good. Find out more about how to get rid of houseplant bugs here.
Pruning Palm Plants
Indoor palm plants can be pruned to look nice and keep their shape. Pruning old yellow, brown, or mottled leaves on a regular basis is a good habit to keep your palm plant looking its best.
The lower leaves of palm trees often turn yellow or brown with age. If your plant is really full, you can trim the old small leaves at the base by simply cutting the leaves down to the stem.
It is not necessary to remove the entire leaf if it has only brown tips, but otherwise looks healthy. The brown tips of palm leaves can be trimmed at any time to keep the plant looking pretty.
Since palm leaves are very thin, use a pair of sharp pruning shears, such as a bonsai pruner or a micro-tipped pruner, to trim palm plants.
If there are extra long stems and you don't like the way they look, you can remove those as well, but this is not necessary. Be careful not to remove too many healthy leaves as this can harm the plant.
Common indoor palm plant care problems
One of the most common indoor palm plant problems is brown leaves and tips. Why do the tips of palm leaves turn brown? Here are a few common causes...
- Lack of water
- Overuse of chemical fertilizers
- Spider mites
Keep in mind that if you just brought the plant home from the garden center, it will take some time for the chemical. fertilizer to flush out the soil (but it doesn't hurt to check if you're watering enough and not infested with spider mites).
If you have had a plant for a while and do not use chemical fertilizers, take a close look at it for spider mites. If the plant is clean, check the soil and make sure it's not too dry.
To make your indoor palm plants look beautiful, simply cut off the brown tips.
Brown Tips for Potted Palms
If you don't already have potted palms or want to add to your collection, you can buy potted palms and plants online or find them at your local garden center.
Potted palms and plants are very easy to care for and with proper care they will grow for years. If you ask me, palms can be the perfect houseplant.
Products I recommend
Other houseplant care guides
Do you grow palm trees at home? Share your indoor palm care tips in the comments below.
An Italian town learns why you shouldn't put Christmas lights on palm trees
A SMALL Italian town became world-famous after accidentally planting crude Christmas lights in palm trees.
Photos of the Christmas lights in Civitanova Marche went viral after they were posted on Twitter by American model Amanda Czerny.
Phallic trees made Civitanova Marche break into social media Credit: Twitter
She commented on what phallic decorations look like and wrote: "Why don't you put Christmas lights on palm trees."
The light illuminates the trunk of the tree and its bulbous top, and then spreads along the palm leaves.
Many people on Twitter tried to guess where the misdecorated palm trees were, most guessing Florida or Arizona in the United States.
Mark Aselstyn said: "I grew up in San Diego, and I must add: sometimes you work with what you have."
But the lights are actually burning in Citanova Marche on the east coast of Italy.
Local newspaper Cronache Maceratesi reported that city officials have taken the taunts and hope the cheeky spectacle will draw more people to Civitanova Marche to see their version of a white Christmas.
A Twitter user joked, "I don't think that's what a happy end of the year means. "
Another joined the surgeon and said, "I dream of a white Christmas."
Heleter in Bristol surprised the locals Photo: Twitter / flezmungus
Rage when Jim Davidson rants about the diversity that "should make a robber dance" after Hurricane BLM
The last one
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Plan for 10m Covid swabs a day in chaos as tests run out and results are not late
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Boy, 5, dies at wedding moments after final table falls on him
Winter Eat Out to Help Out 'under review' after the success of the summer version
But the phallic gaffes aren't limited to Italy. This year in Bristol, locals were surprised to see a figure of a male anatomy in front of the town hall lit up at a temporary fun fair.
A local resident told IBTimes: “Absolutely fun! It's always a pleasure to celebrate the city council's gleaming buildings at the annual Winterfest - it's worth one municipal tax!"
The best Christmas decorations 2017 for your Christmas tree, table and cottage
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How to make a pindo landscape | Home Guides
Adding a pindo palm tree (Butia capitata) to your home landscape will give your outdoor space a touch of tropical interest. This single-trunked palm thrives in a wide variety of environments and has elegant blue-gray foliage. Its height of 15 to 25 feet and width of 10 to 15 feet make it an ideal tree for warm climate living spaces, even with power lines present. Check out the pindo palm's characteristics and care requirements for successful landscaping.
Plant pindo palms in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 8b through 11 for best growth.
Grow pindo palms in areas of the home landscape that provide full sun if possible, although these trees can thrive in partially shaded conditions.
Maintain moist, well-drained soil conditions for the most cosmetically attractive tree. However, you can grow pindo palms in almost any environment as they tolerate wind, heat, salt, drought, alkalinity, sand, clay, and heavily paved or cemented environments.
Trim dead palm leaves because they do not naturally fall off the pindo palm. Cut a clean line with a pruner near the base of the leaf when it is no longer green. Avoid hitting the tree trunk.
Place pindo palms away from traffic and sidewalks if you prefer a clean space; the yellow fruits from the tree fall and make a mess. Landscape with these trees away from your home to avoid pest problems as the fruit attracts wildlife.
Apply 1 pound of a granular fertilizer known as "Palm Specialty Fertilizer" once every two months to the soil around the palm tree for healthy growth.Palm Specialty Fertilizer is a complete granular fertilizer specially formulated for palm trees that contains Nitrogen, Phosphorus , potassium and magnesium in a ratio of 12-4-12-4.
13 cold hardy palms
'McCurtain' Dwarf Palmetto (Sabal Minor 'McCurtain')
Snow and palms can go together if the right variety is chosen. This snow-hardy palm is native to McCurtain County, Oklahoma, west of Folsom, Arkansas. 'McCurtain' grows in Wichita where it has been known to withstand temperatures as low as -24°F. It is a good choice for winter gardeners in places like Ohio and Delaware who want to bring a tropical vibe to their landscapes. This variety eventually grows to 6 feet and has a higher growth rate than other dwarf palmettos. Hardy in zones 6b-10b.
Bulgaria windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei "Bulgaria")
Palm trees in Bulgaria? This is where this "tough as a nail" variety was born. Under these conditions, temperatures often plummet, including a record low of -17°F. "Bulgaria" survived the polar vortex during the winter of 2013–14 in Washington, DC. Windmill palm trees are male and female. The female bears bright seeds: blue-black seeds on bright yellow stems. Plants can grow up to 12 feet tall. Hardy in zones 7b-10b, although 7b plants may lose all their leaves in harsh winters.
Palm trees on the street?! - Plant world
graf12004 local 08/06/09 23:38
Good afternoon everyone!
Has anyone planted palm trees, or experimented with it, in the street, in the garden. Palm trees grow in Sochi and they are covered for the winter, but what kind of winter is here ?! But of course you need to close for two months. Share your achievements or advice, otherwise the palm trees are already large and there is not enough space in the dugout.
split0 local 08/07/09 00:00
NEW 08/07/09 00:00
in reply to graf12004 08/06/09 23:38, Last modified on 08/07/09 00:01 (split0)
Such a palm tree survived -17 C, lasting a week. Not so hot, but for our area too much and too long
Petticoat-Palme, Washingtonia robusta
graf12004 local 08/07/09 11:21
NEW 07.08.09 11:21
in reply to split0 08/07/09 00:00
Thank you! Was she in the sun in the winter? How often do you water it in winter? After all, sometimes +15 happens in winter.
split0 local 08/07/09 15:57
NEW 07.08.09 15:57
in reply to graf12004 07.08.09 11:21
In reply to:
Was it in the sun in winter? How often do you water it in winter? After all, sometimes +15 happens in winter.
She didn't know how to stand. For many years I have been walking past a house on the plot of which this palm tree stands. It stands on the "lawn" covered with large decorative stones. Stands in both sun and shade. The shadow is only in the late afternoon, but not under the "protection" of the house from wind and frost, but in the gap between the houses ... we can say that in a draft. After the frost, it was clear that the leaves were frozen, the brown ends became ... But then the new ones climbed from the top and the old ones were cut off and she was like new. they fold up like an accordion, as you pour it they straighten up again
Bundle native 08/08/09 18:09
NEW 08/08/09 18:09
in reply graf12004 08/06/09 23:38
in the city where I study, in the spring they put up huge palm trees and banana trees in tubs
in the fall they take them away (apparently, to the botanical garden, to the greenhouse)
last winter I wrapped up a thuja bush, it still froze
Today is the first day of the rest of your life.
wolfi22 old-timer 08/08/09 19:47
NEW 08.08.09 19:47
in reply Bundle 08.08.09 18:09
in Düsseldorf they don't seem to grow in tubs, but it's warm in winter (CO2 and there are no winds).
Rukmini native 08/10/09 23:41
NEW 08/10/09 23:41
in reply to graf12004 08/06/09 23:38, Last modified 08/11/09 13:46 (Rukmini)
I can share a good link to the palm theme -
It also describes well how to take care of palm trees in winter.
There are many palm trees, but not all of them are frost-resistant (these are sold with the mark winterhart ).
We have one of the most unpretentious palm trees on our terrace - Trachycarpus fortunei (chinesische Hanfpalme) - Chinese fan palm , frost resistance in the ground - up to -17.
We wrap up for the winter.
And in such frosts as they were last winter (up to -20), they brought them into the house.
But still, let's say, 11 months of the year she is outside. So it's quite possible0003
graf12004 local 8/11/09 11:27
NEW 08/11/09 11:27
in reply to Rukmini 08/10/09 23:41
Thank you so much, Very good and encouraging answer with a spark of optimism!!
Rukmini native 08/11/09 13:09
NEW 08/11/09 13:09
in reply to graf12004 08/11/09 11:27, Last modified 08/11/09 21:38 (Rukmini)
However, I don't know what kind of palm trees you have and whether they can winter outside? After all, there are many types of palm trees ...
With a strong desire, you can arrange a sort of piece of the Mediterranean in front of your house!
But we are still talking about frost-resistant palms.
Such a palm tree will be able to endure ordinary winters, but in case of extraordinary frosts, alas, there is no guarantee ...
Therefore, my palm trees are still in containers - just in case.
Chinese (Japanese) fan palm
And this is how you need to protect such a palm planted in the ground when the temperature drops below -7 °:
graf12004 local 12.08.09 00:34
NEW 08/12/09 00:34
in reply Rukmini 08/11/09 13:09, Last modified 08/12/09 00:40 (graf12004)
I have simple palm trees. They are sold in all stores. There are no leaves, only branches .. with thin ?! (like .. leaves?) ... depart in different directions.
Looked at your page..like Butia Capitata..suitable...160 cm...or Jubaea Chilensis--
Rukmini native 12.08.09 21:11
NEW 08/12/09 21:11
in reply to graf12004 08/12/09 00:34
In reply to:
or Jubaea Chilensis
Because it can withstand temperatures as low as -15.
I'm also thinking about buying one, but it grows very slowly...
(Sellers promise up to 25 m, but it probably takes 250 years to wait).
Very similar to common date palm (Phoenix roebelenii):
This is, of course, a houseplant, although it may well be outside until the first cool days (+5).
It is she who is most often sold in stores.
If your palms have lived only in the room before, then they need to be accustomed to the street gradually.
dellaros guest 08/16/09 20:22
NEW 08/16/09 20:22
in reply Rukmini 08/12/09 21:11
I have such a palm tree. We bought it 9 years ago, size 1m30cm. It still doesn't reach the ceiling.
Truth is not dearer to me!...
Rukmini native 17. 08.09 14:23
NEW 17.08.09 14:23
in reply dellaros 16.08.09 20:22
What about wintering outside?
Such a palm tree - for life, probably ...
graf12004 NEW 08/19/09 00:48
in reply to Rukmini 08/12/09 21:11, Last modified 08/19/0900:49 (graf12004)
Thank you very much!! In your photo is my palm tree! Only now I don’t know .. autumn is coming soon .. it’s a pity to transplant a palm tree before winter (who drives the dog out into the cold ?!) I keep thinking .. maybe in the spring ?! Yes, and my dugout will be orphaned without them, there will be only a pile of firewood, and black coal)))) And here is a plant. And in Africa they grow and do not ask for any specific land. Maybe plant her here with the land in which she grew up in our ordinary German land ??!
Rukmini native 08/19/09 18:10
NEW 08/19/09 18:10
in reply graf12004 08/19/09 00:48
In no case should it be transplanted into the ground, especially before winter!
She will surely die!
If your palm has been living indoors all the time, then it must be very gradually accustomed to life on the street,
i. e. you can leave it there until autumn, while the nights are warm, and then take it back to the house until spring (the main thing is not to forget).
And, of course, the palm tree must remain in a pot in order to be transportable.
So your home will definitely not be orphaned in the near future.
If you have an ordinary date palm, then this is just a houseplant,
and you can put it outside only in the warm season.
However, in Germany this period lasts quite a long time.
In reply to:
And in Africa they grow and do not ask for any specific land
In Africa, they grow up from birth in their native land.
Therefore, if your palm tree is fine in the one in which it is growing now, then it is better not to subject it to any stress.
P.S. The photo is cool.
berlije regular 08/25/09 02:17
NEW 08/25/09 02:17
in reply Rukmini 08/19/09 18:10
I wonder if Yucca can be left on the balcony for the winter? I had it at home all year round, then it grew out over the years, for the summer I throw it on the balcony, and for the winter in the apartment.
And there I don't want to "drag" her in recent years! Until the beginning of November, it stands on the balcony.
A word is not an aunt, you can't cut it down with an ax!
muza1967 guest 25.08.09 21:56
NEW 08/25/09 21:56
in reply berlije 08/25/09 02:17
I have the following information about some varieties of Yucca: "Yuccas hibernate in the open ground without shelter √ Yu. Smalliana (Y. smalliana) , Y. gray (Y. glauca),
Y. aloe-leaved (Y. aloifolia) and its forms (Y. aloifoliav. marginata, v. tricolor), Y. Trecule (Y. treculeana)".
If you live in the south of Germany, then I think it's not scary to leave it on the balcony for the winter.
Friendship is like a diamond. It is rare, expensive, and there are a lot of fakes... NEW 08/26/09 12:58
in reply berlije 08/25/09 02:17
I agree with muza1967:
many yuccas also withstand sub-zero temperatures.
But if it is below -5, and also considering that your yucca, being already an adult, has never wintered outside, I would roll it up from the balcony home.
And when it gets warmer - back to the balcony.
In addition, you can use various options for warming:
wrap the pot itself for the winter with burlap, and at night in case of frost, hide the plant under a large plastic bag.
In general, a little attention - and your yucca will spend almost round on the balcony.
berlije familiar face 09/04/09 23:56
NEW 09/04/09 23:56
in reply to Rukmini 08/26/09 12:58
Thank you for your answers! In general, my yucca will be preparing for the winter this year! I just live in Berlin. Not very southern.
A word is not an aunt, you can't cut it down with an ax!
graf12004 local 09/05/09 12:44
NEW 09/05/09 12:44
in reply Rukmini 08/26/09 12:58
A banana tree stands on the terrace all summer long.